Stealthburner and Rapido 2 mount

[BeerMedic522]

I’m having an issue with installing my Rapido 2 hot end. If I follow the instructions from Phaetus and put the set screw to the left side, I am not able to line up the screw holes in the heat sink to ANY of the mounts I have been able to find. Can anyone with this hot end mounted help me out??

Edited February 18 by BeerMedic522

[Dirk]

Can you show me the source where the instructions are?

I use rapido hotends only ( 2 pieces). It is quite straight forward. You place it in the printed stealthburner part for rapido .. fixing it with the cables through the cable gutter is the only way to fix the rapido in place.

[Dirk]

I just looked here. Since mine was straight forward and yours need some unscrewing and all, I assume mine was 'supported' and yours is not

If it is a genuine v2 rapido, I guess you will need to follow the instructions as followed in the link on the stealthburner github. Also check out the v1 rapido page.

If it still does not work out for you, post a few pictures on the situation.

[MrSprinklz]

Hey, not sure if you got this figured out yet or not, but I dealt with a similar issue on my SB build with Rapido 2. My problem was that I printed the Rapido 1 mount a while ago (before Rapido 2 was released) and didn't know v1 and v2 of Rapido have different hotend mounts for Stealthburner. A reprint of front and rear mounts from https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner/tree/main/STLs/Stealthburner/Printheads/phaetus_rapido_v2 fixed that.

I used the CW2 rear part as that's what I have, just match to your extruder type. Set screw, thermistor wire, and heater wire should be aligned. 

[Dirk]

I will be honest, I thought there was only 1 version of the Phaetus Rapido Stealthburner Printhead. Seems the Voron Design team made also one for the Rapido v2 (4 months ago!)

I have my Rapido 1 UHF on my Voron and am busy converting it to CAN. My other Rapido 1 HF is in a ministealth. So I unpacked the Rapido 2 I had bought during christmas aliexpress sales. I had to print the SB Rapido 2 printhead and installed it according to the very clear instructions on the SB github. 

I took a few pictures while building, so in the spirit of this forum, let me display them here. 

1- For a comparison, this is my Rapido 1 UHF showing how it sits in the printhead, the location of the wires and the set screw (the screw that holds the whole Ceramic heater / heatbreak / thermistor block.

 

 

2- For a comparison, the rapido 1 UHF on the left and the rapido 2 HF on the right (not assembled yet).

 

 

3- The Rapido 2. The screws of the heater complex removed. Location of the set screw initially. This will be at a different location when it is assembled in the printhead. So we will have to remove the heater complex and turn it around so all fits for our stealthburner. 

 

4- Here the heatblock complex is removed and lies on the right. The heatsink is on the left.

 

5- The heatsink is fixed with one or two screws in the printhead. 

 

6- this is where the set screw is now.

 

7- now insert the heater complex into the heatsink so the cables lead out to the side. As you can see, the cables are in the way of the screw hole.

 

8- You need to bend the plate that supports the heater cable, carefully(!)

 

9- Now you can put on the second part and screw it all down.

10- From the back to the front and on top. That fixes the rapido 2 securely.

 

 

Edited February 20 by Dirk

[MrSprinklz]

I wondered if that's what happened. Don't worry, it's exactly the same as what I did! Glad you got it figured out!

[BeerMedic522]

5 hours ago, MrSprinklz said:

Hey, not sure if you got this figured out yet or not, but I dealt with a similar issue on my SB build with Rapido 2. My problem was that I printed the Rapido 1 mount a while ago (before Rapido 2 was released) and didn't know v1 and v2 of Rapido have different hotend mounts for Stealthburner. A reprint of front and rear mounts from https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner/tree/main/STLs/Stealthburner/Printheads/phaetus_rapido_v2 fixed that.

I used the CW2 rear part as that's what I have, just match to your extruder type. Set screw, thermistor wire, and heater wire should be aligned. 

Printing them now….

[BeerMedic522]

Ok, this is what I've found. I have printed every iteration of the R2 mount, from GitHub, to Printables and even a corrupted file from China somewhere. If I line up the set screw with the wires, it will not go inside the mount without bending the wires.

 

 

 

Edited February 21 by BeerMedic522
added pictures

[BeerMedic522]

So, then my question becomes, if I can get the mount holes and the heatsink holes lined up, AND the wires are in the right place, does it matter where the set screw is?

Edited February 21 by BeerMedic522

[MrSprinklz]

I also had the corrupted one first  The one from the voron page worked and I just had to bend the metal support a tiny bit (same as r1 and revo, just be gentle). The first pictures in the Readme are rapido 1 pics that kind of apply, then there is a set or r2 pics to follow. Read the whole set of text to get the whole picture

[BeerMedic522]

3 minutes ago, MrSprinklz said:

I also had the corrupted one first  The one from the voron page worked and I just had to bend the metal support a tiny bit (same as r1 and revo, just be gentle). The first pictures in the Readme are rapido 1 pics that kind of apply, then there is a set or r2 pics to follow. Read the whole set of text to get the whole picture

I have read it, exhaustively.   My R1 fit without an issue, I'm not sure why this one has to be difficult. The one I printed is from the Voron page, I'm don't know what else to do, short of getting a different hotend. 

[BeerMedic522]

I found an orientation, but as you can see the set screw is not where Phaetus says it should be. If it works and won’t hurt anything, I’m fine with it. 

[MrSprinklz]

OH! I just saw the pictures (using my phone, they don't always load right away). Line up the wires on the other half of the printed parts first. You have the hotend spun 180

Edit: Ignore, I only saw one picture with that, obviously there are 2 more and you had it the correct way.

Edited February 21 by MrSprinklz

[MrSprinklz]

That's probably fine, mine needed to be spun to line up, but yours doesn't. I think they say in the phallus manual that sometimes you have to clock it and other times you don't, but I'm not sure why there would be that kind of inconsistency

[Penatr8tor]

2 hours ago, MrSprinklz said:

I think they say in the phallus manual that sometimes you have to clock it and other times you don't, but I'm not sure why there would be that kind of inconsistency

I had no idea there was a "phallus manual"... And here I've been just winging it the entire time. 

[MrSprinklz]

Autocorrect strikes again

[BeerMedic522]

Printing just fine now! Thanks for the encouragement, I was gonna throw it in the trash and get something else. 

[Dirk]

7 hours ago, BeerMedic522 said:

does it matter where the set screw is?

No.

The set screw is just to hold the heatbreak in place. So when you insert a filament, it does not dislocate it.

I have never seen a Phaetus or a Phallus manual. Just the one on the StealthBurner github. 

But if you look at the pictures (pictures 5 & 6)  I made of me mounting my Rapido 2 on the Rapido-2 Stealthburner Printhead, you will see that I have positioned the heatsink (big blue thing) so that the screw lines are aligned with the Rapido 2 Printhead. This also coincidentally displays the PHAETUS logo on the front (Picture 5) 

The most important is you fix the heatsink accurately and rigidly in the printhead. Because actually the printhead is designed to hold the extruder by simply clamping it. The 4 screws on the top are just there, because they can (according to the manual). It helps with the alignment though.

Further your assembly looks good.

 

[Dirk]

7 hours ago, MrSprinklz said:

I think they say in the phallus manual that sometimes you have to clock it and other times you don't

I think it is because they have several versions as well as variations for their rapido's. If they only would make it for the Stealthburner, it would be just one model I think. But I guess it is mainly for other printers that want to print rapido... vzbot, some enders and some prusa's need the whole thing.

On the stealthburner page it mentions two unsupported variations. I think my rapido 1 came in a supported version: it fit directly. The rapido 2 I had to adjust as I have shown above. A loosening and fastening a few screws...

The support person from the AliExpress official support told me two things when disassembling / assembling:

1- to fasten the 3 screws on the bottom equally one by one (not one all at once)

2- to not tighten the set-screw too much: it will cause a dent inside the tube and cause problems with feeding the filament.

[MrSprinklz]

27 minutes ago, Dirk said:

I have never seen a Phaetus or a Phallus manual. Just the one on the StealthBurner github. 

You are correct, it was in the SB github. The Phaetus instruction sheet had assembly instructions, but no mention of clocking when I looked again. 

29 minutes ago, Dirk said:

It helps with the alignment though.

I've taken a good long look at both @BeerMedic522's and @Dirk's pictures and if you look at how close the wires are to the "front" wall of the wire channel you can really tell they are not mounted at the same angle. Does it matter? No, probably not. My thermistor wire physically would not do what @BeerMedic522's is doing bending right next to the thread-in connector.

32 minutes ago, Dirk said:

The most important is you fix the heatsink accurately and rigidly in the printhead. Because actually the printhead is designed to hold the extruder by simply clamping it. The 4 screws on the top are just there, because they can (according to the manual)

^^^ This 100%. If it seats it yeets. You're all good.

[claudermilk]

16 hours ago, MrSprinklz said:

If it seats it yeets.

I'm going to have to remember that one to steal at a later date.

[Titus A Duxass]

Dirk, thanks for posting this.

I was most helpful with my install.

[Dirk]

2 hours ago, Titus A Duxass said:

Dirk, thanks for posting this.

I am glad it helped you.

This is what I like most about this site  

Pictorials...  Because of youtube it is almost forgotten. 

2 hours ago, Titus A Duxass said:

my install.

Did you already test the rapido 2 UHF? the flow rate?

 

 

Edited February 25 by Dirk

[Titus A Duxass]

18 minutes ago, Dirk said:

Did you already test the rapido 2 UHF? the flow rate?

I'm just finishing off the configuration but the hot end is showing 161 when its cold, so I need to find the correct setting for the thermistor.

Edited February 25 by Titus A Duxass

[Dirk]

If you have the PT1000 sensor, enter this in klipper under section [extruder]
sensor_type: PT1000
If you have the other one
sensor_type: ATC Semitec 104NT-4-R025H42G