voron 2.4 questions

[madmike46]

I' building a voron 2.4 in 350 mm size.  I have klipper loaded on my rp4,I also have the firmware on the Octopus v1.1.  When I boot up in mainsail I get moonraker not connected to klipper.  In mainsail under update manage I have an message next to moonraker " Repo has untracked source files: ['moonraker/components/timelapse.py']" 

I'm lost on figuring this out, I might be over my head on this build.  Steep learning curve that's for sure.

[madmike46]

1 hour ago, cjkennedy72 said:

@madmike46 It is worth figuring out and @Dirk posted some good links... What CAN adapter are you using? U2C? a RPi Hat? or something else?

I'm using Bigtreetech'sEBB sb2209 rp2040.  I will look at Dirk's links, I still like the idea of only 4 wires going to the tool head.  I did get my Tap working today as well as QGL.  Been saving my printer config file after every success.

[madmike46]

I forgot to add the moonraker log file

 

moonraker (3).log

[madmike46]

I noticed this message as well, it's in orange if that makes a difference.

 

Init. Moonraker: checkKlippyState

An error was detected during initialization the moonraker component 'checkKlippyState'. Please check the log file and fix the issue.

 

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, madmike46 said:

" Repo has untracked source files: ['moonraker/components/timelapse.py']" 

You can ignore that, has been explained by the devs as a notification, not a warning. We all hate it, but it seems it is there to stay. Has been greyed out with the recent updates to try and decrease the anxiety around it.

 

58 minutes ago, madmike46 said:

noticed this message as well, it's in orange if that makes a difference

Got that after the last update and I don't have klippy installed - just had a Quick Look - again seems it can be ignored - just another anoying notification. See discussion here Here is a screenshot of part of the discussion.

[madmike46]

Thanks for the quick reply, now to get the printer.cfg going.

[Dirk]

Hi @madmike46,

I also found it a steep learning curve, because there were too many new things to me. Like a unix interface, running things over ssh / web / ftp to control hardware that you are building...

The problem of klipper, linux, dealing with typing commands instead of pushing buttons, was in my case made a bit lighter by using KIUAH.  If you follow the instructions over there, it gets a whole lot easier to set up klipper and flash the board.

I looked at your log and the only reason things are not continuing is this message: 
Unable to parse option 'stealthchop_threshold' in section 'tmc2209 stepper_z3' 

suggesting that there is an error in your printer.cfg file, probably before or on this line.

No idea how you can resolve it, but the line that says: stealthchop_threshold under the heading [tmc2209 stepper_z3] in hour printer.cfg file is in a format that klipper does not understand. The annoying thing about klipper is, that it is cryptic with its messages. It is case sensitive. It wants things in specific order. 

So best is to use a printer.cfg file that came with your kit and follow the instructions in this 'template'.

Good luck
 

[madmike46]

Well I have had some success.  I have Klipper screen working.  The printer.cfg file I have is not the right one.  Up to this point this is the only printer.cfg file that willboot the printer up.  Now I am not sure on how or what changes to implement in the file.  My printer is the 350 size.  I do have movement on the x axis and the left front z motor which makes sense to me.  I  have attached my printer.cfg file , maybe some one can steer me in the right dirrection.  It has been pretty frustrating up to this point, but I consider this a Victory, being able to boot up with no errors.  Thanks in Advance and Happy New Year to all.

working printer config file dec 30.txt

[Dirk]

Hi @madmike46,

The config file is just a bare bones octopus klipper configuration file. In no way specific for your build.

If you have bought a specific kit, the kit producers would supply you with a config file suitable for the hardware they deliver. But if you sourced everything yourself, you will have to figure things out for yourself, how frustrating it might be.

I would suggest start with this configuration file: https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/blob/Voron2.4/firmware/klipper_configurations/Octopus/Voron2_Octopus_Config.cfg

and... check out this page: https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/

and follow it along until you have everything installed. 

and when you are back here, where you want to get movement in your printer, try out this one: https://www.klipper3d.org/Installation.html

You can also consider following a build on youtube, if you like watching videos of old men fiddling somewhere in the dark and then telling you after 6 hours that they have done something, on a life feed also...

I found the video build series of this old man fun to watch. He really tries to do things in the light and from the POV. I especially liked the fact that he does not say anything

Good luck!

 

Edited December 30, 2023 by Dirk

[madmike46]

Thanks for the links Dirk.  I am getting closer, as I can now home the x and y axis as well as move those axis to max range.  I have watched many of the Old man's videos.

[madmike46]

Well I am making progress with my printer.cfg file, I can now zero return all axis, it took me some time but I got all the Z motors going in the right direction and all at the same time,  Next getting Can Bus going.

[madmike46]

Well not having any luck with CanBus, board I am using is the EBB SB2209 RP2040.  I might just say the hell with CanBus and wire up the tool head old school.  Wasted a day and 1/2 and still no where.

[Dirk]

I think if you have been busy for 1,5 days, I am sure you must have learned something. So never a waste But I would think that doing it old school, if you are doing it for the first time, will be easier than directly implementing canbus.

However if there is one thing I would do different, was to not-build-stock as suggested by the vorondesign team and later upgrade all parts separately. Because that costs a lot of extra plastic, time and money for unnecessary parts you will not use anymore.

But if you still want to give it a try, I would suggest a few links: this one on this forum is very comprehensive and with a manual. 

Then I found two other very clear youtube videos that show every step in their process.

This one and this one. Check out which one suits you best and let us know how it goes.

And maybe write up a build-post, so others also can see and learn from you.

Good luck.

Edited January 2 by Dirk

[cjkennedy72]

@madmike46 It is worth figuring out and @Dirk posted some good links... What CAN adapter are you using? U2C? a RPi Hat? or something else?

[cjkennedy72]

@madmike46  I have not used the SB2209, but it looks like it has two connections with tips for power and the 2-pin JST like the port on the Octopus Pro.

Are you going to run it off your Octopus? If so, you will need to flash the Octopus with the USB to CAN Klipper option. Otherwise, the CAN out on the board is not active, as I understand the docs.  

Congrats on getting QGL working, I screwed that up first try... DOH!

 

Edited January 3 by cjkennedy72

[Dirk]

8 hours ago, madmike46 said:

Bigtreetech'sEBB sb2209 rp2040

The links I posted use the BTT EBB36. Here is a link with someone configuring the sbb2209: And here another one.  No idea why they use the U2C additional board, maybe because BTT tells them to... But octopus itself is able to function as a U2C bridge.

Here is a link to the github of esoterical, a person on the voron discord who answers every question about canbus (meaning he/she must know a lot about it): a very good write up on can boards used on vorons. A very detailed guide for the BTT sb2209, and in case you have another board from BTT.

And to be complete, in case you read the evaluation of several can boards and decided to go for the mellow board, here is a simple and complete maual for the sb2040. And another one wich even helps you through setting up an umbilical for it.

 

Just browsing through all this data will take you another 1.5 days now

 

[YaaJ]

12 hours ago, Dirk said:

No idea why they use the U2C additional board

On my side, because I'm using UART to communicate with the Pi. I answered on the Klipper forums, and was told that the STM32 UART is limited to 1Mbps, and would be a problem for the accelerometer, even more with higher microsteppings.

Didn't verify at this time : UART is limited to 2.5 Mbps [EDIT] 11.25Mbps or 5.62MBps (depends on the port), not 1Mbps. Got a U2C. Later, flashed my Octopus for 2Mbps and planned using the Octopus as a bridge.

But without a RJ11 crimping tool and RJ11 terminals, buying a kit and using it one time only... This maybe is one of the main reason. Very few people have RJ11 things nowadays. Cell phones made this standard obsolete. Yes, there are cables all around, but untwisted / unshielded, prone to EMI and problems. Many horror stories, corrupted packets, etc. using the wrong cables. Also CANBUS cables, with signal and power, are not easy to source, and expensive.

(using a U2C, I was able to install the shortest possible unshielded twisted pair, after relocating the U2C on the gantry, and a USB cable from the Pi to the gantry in the Z dragchain. This way, the CANBUS pair will catch very little EMI)

Edited January 3 by YaaJ

[YaaJ]

I edited my previous post. I post so anyone that read 2.5Mbps sees my mistake. UART is limited to 11.25Mbps (1 and 6) and 5.62Mbps (others) depending on the port, NOT 2.5 Mbps.
Sorry for the inconvenience.

So, PA9/PA10, used for communication with the Pi, is 11.25 Mbps

As a comparison, USB FS (full speed) = 12Mbps, HS (high speed) = 480Mbps

Source : STM32F4 datasheet

Edited January 3 by YaaJ

[madmike46]

Thanks for the links Dirk, I have some reading to do now.  I am making some progress, I now have Tap working as well as my QGL, I was also able to do a bed mesh today.

[madmike46]

Well I read through all the links that Dirk posted, good reading.  I read through the links a few times, as I felt comfortable trying to install Canbus ahain.  Well I think I bricked my boards.  After a reboot I just got a blank screen on the printer, I can'r log in through Putty or long on with Mainsail. I think it's time to walk away from this project, anyone want a cheep Voron 2.4 in 350 size?

[Dirk]

If you can not log on to your pi, it would mean that the pi is not booting up correctly. The pi is the computer that runs the operating system, and provides the interface to log on through ssh (putty). I am not sure if anything has happend to your boards (octopus / can) yet.

Does your Pi boot up? do you see the lights on the board?

You should be able to boot up the mainsailOS on your PI, without any other cables. The only cable needed is a USB cable you can connect to a 5V source, like a phone charger.

I am nobody to tell you what to do, but I would think that you have come quite far to give up now.

[madmike46]

Thanks for the vote of confidence Dirk.  I ended up re-installing klipper on my pi then it booted up.  I downloaded my printer.cfg file I had saved before this happened.  For some reason the klipper subdirectory changed from a small k to a capital k.  Now to re-read all the links you posted to see if I can get Can Bus going.

[Dirk]

I am happy to read your boards weren't bricked. And you have contact with the system again.

Why don't you get things working 'old school' if you already have all the hardware?

Even though it costs some more plastic and some more hardware, it is easier and more fool proof to build your Voron 'stock'. Mainly because all the guides out there are aimed at it. It will always be smaller steps to add things to it...

And to be honest, the fact there are so many guides out there to go canbus, means it is not a completely evolved and grown up system.

Again, once you have your printer doing quad gantry level, it is not far away to get it to print.

Again... Good luck.

 

[claudermilk]

I second the suggestion to get the printer running on the spec electrical setup. Canbus is still in its infancy on 3d printers and very much an advanced mod. I'm not even tempted to try switching to it. I built my Trident to spec, then added the 2-piece toolhead boards and LDO breakout; I'm happy with that for now (it's 16 wires on a premade loom now).

[madmike46]

I will be finishing up my printer to spec to get it printing.  So far It does G28's with out issue, I have QGL working, and seems very accurate, and I have also done a bed mess.  I did go over the magnetic bed with a steel roll to make sure it was well stuck down.  I re-did the mess and it was way more even, .003 of an inch, I am happy with that.  I did notice that after a G28 and with the printer sitting idle it looses position , I get ?'s on the X,Y and Z, is this normal?

[Dirk]

I have not noticed any question marks after a G28 or a bed mesh. But the z-motors turn off after a while. Once the z-motors turn off, the gantry will not be level anymore and you will need to do a g28 again. 

But I would not worry about this all too much.

Make sure your toolhead/stealthburner is ready to extrude plastic. I am assuming you must be almost there, since you can already use the tap to do a QGL and do a bed mesh. 

Once you have the extruder spitting out (Follow the steps about setting up the printer from the klipper3d and vorondesign pages I I posted before), you can go on to further finetuning your printer as described here. You will there see more about the z-motors.