Several doubts and problems about voron 2.4

[Rede]

Hi, I recently owned an LDO Voron 2.4 350 and I'm trying to calibrate it but I'm having some difficulties and I would like to ask  you some advices and opinions.
1) While I was assembling the printer I noticed that the belt tensioners on the z-axis reducer did not tightened the closed belt and so I was forced to pull it from the motor, did I do something wrong?
2) I think it is connected to the first point, when I level the gantry (looking at the printer from the front) the left front and sometimes rear area causes the calibration to fail as it goes beyond the tolerance set in the config, I also tried with 0.1 mm and different speeds. I tried both the Omron probe and the Klicky.
3) Doing various tests, unfortunately the gantry hit the plate, bending and making absurd noises. I checked it and the bed was not damaged, even the nozzle wasn't, but I wanted to ask you if these two accidents could lead to problems.
4) Another annoying thing is a vibration which I presume comes from the limit switches which vibrate at a certain speed, is this a common issue in these machines?
5) I printed some templates to put the printing plate in the center but bringing the nozzle to the center of the bed makes it off centre, how is this possible?
6) Last thing, when I went to adjust the tension as described on the official website they seemed really too loose and so I tightened them a little more. The fact is that the x axis when I bring it to the end of its travel has a misalignment of about half a millimeter on the right side, I have tried several times to square everything but it remains, what could it depend on?
Thanks so much for your help.

Edited December 6, 2023 by Rede
adjustment

[Dirk]

Hi Rede,

I built my voron 2.4 just a few months ago, and had very similar problems. This also means I know not much. But, almost all problems resolved after I followed Ellis's Print Tuning Guide. I think they should include the reference in the build manual

Start at the beginning and follow it.

I am sorry I do not completely understand your questions, but I am sure most of them will resolve once you have followed the guide above. 

I guess while following the guide, you will also get to understand the machine, mainsail-os and Klipper better, which will help you answer the questions.

If there are still problems, try maybe explaining with a video or pictures?

[Wannabe]

I will try to give some input into your issues, in particular #1.

All 4 Z belts should have been cut the same length, in the manual it indicates minimum belt length for a 350 spec is 1200mm

Top Z idlers should be installed in a manner where the z tensioner is in its slackest postion after installing to the frame, all should have the same amount of slack

I will assume the Z belts are installed correctly to the underside of the gantry, all in the same fashion

When threading the Z belts its best to have the complete carriage hanging or supported at an equal distance around the frame

Threading the belt around the motor can be tricky, and one may find the belt is not fully engaged in the sprockets just turn the motor a bit by hand to fully engage the teeth while holding some tension on the belt.

Upon threading the belt through Z tensioner and securing the top belt clamp you should equal amounts of excess belt left over at all 4 z belt locations

Tighten each top tensioner in sequence by equal amounts until satisfied.

For proper tensioning amounts may I suggest you look at this

GT2 Belt Tension Meter

https://www.printables.com/model/634190-gt2-belt-tension-meter-wbearings

 

 

 

 

[Dirk]

On 12/6/2023 at 9:53 PM, Rede said:

5) I printed some templates to put the printing plate in the center but bringing the nozzle to the center of the bed makes it off centre, how is this possible?
 

I just read a forum post from @mvdveer which might explain your problem: 

 

 

It is a thing you need to deal with when adjusting the Klipper settings. I hope it helps

 

[Rede]

Thank you, by combining all your advice I managed to solve the gantry problem.
I wanted to ask you without opening a new post if there is a way to make klipper detect a possible collision with the bed or with the printed piece, Prusa style. I ask you this because while I was printing, suddenly the gantry started to go downwards and the nozzle against the piece without stopping, deforming and breaking the support that holds the head, fortunately I was going to check and I stopped it in time but if I had been away from home I don't want to know what could have happened. As a slicer I used orcaslicer. I'll also attach some photos.

[Dirk]

Hi Rede,

I do not know if there is such a function. I do use SuperSlicer and I have not seen such a function. I do have z-lift which I increase a bit when printing multiple parts at once.

However, the problem you describe, I do know. I have had exactly the same. Just as I thought: yay! my 2.4 is great, look how beautifully it is printing, it looked as if the printing plate started to move up... And the extruder knocked off the prints from the bed half an hour or an hour into the print. 

In my case the cause was Thermal Drift.

You have to heat up your chamber for a while (1-1.5 hours). Or use any of the other solutions Ellis presents there. The simplest are titanium backers, but I refuse to pay 80 euros for 3 pieces of metal. So I bought 3 stainless steel sliders and installed them. 

I also just installed 2 chamber fans under the bed. They are supposed to help heat up everything faster.

Good luck, I will be curious what you choose.