Another ERCF Project - 6 Filament

[PFarm]

Re-installed the back panel and the Carrot Quiver Buffers. Run another Canbus cable for the ERCF nice feature on the BTT Manta 8P is there are two Can ports. All that is left electrically is to tie in the Can ports, the 24v. for the Canbus devices, re-install the wiring to the bed and secure the bed. The bottom panel is so badly warped that I need to re-fasten it down with the Z-belt brackets and the previous bottom panel brackets. Going to look into getting a new bottom panel.

 

[Buurman]

I hope it all works out for you, I ended up using rewind spools on the most loose setting and this works well for me.

All other buffers, including the ones you are making now ended up in often print failures since there is still too much drag sometimes on the filament.

In my case, I dont know, it was all smooth when I test it, but had failures still.

 

PS. I love the upside down electronics with the hinged bed!!! awesome!

[PFarm]

2 hours ago, Buurman said:

I hope it all works out for you, I ended up using rewind spools on the most loose setting and this works well for me.

All other buffers, including the ones you are making now ended up in often print failures since there is still too much drag sometimes on the filament.

In my case, I dont know, it was all smooth when I test it, but had failures still.

PS. I love the upside down electronics with the hinged bed!!! awesome!

Thanks I think the bay came out pretty good, which rewind spool did you use? My PTFE runs are going to be pretty short so hoping it will work out.

Edited January 31 by PFarm

[Buurman]

Had to search a bit... but this one... 

 

I used wall mounts (IKEA peg board) that hang almost directly above my Rabbit (wall mounted also, long live IKEA boards), as short as possible to prevent drag.

Now the path from filament spindle to extruder is a straight line... and it cant get any better... 

They work amazing, Like I said, you can set the tension and with that more rotations, but mine are on lightest setting.

The spring... dont print it in PLA, but ABS or PETG (last is best) but my ABS ones dont break also.

I think I printed a newer version spring that can be used both ways.

[pottedporkproduct]

The best solution I’ve found to feed-path friction is to sync the extruder to the feed motor on the MMU. Now I can have sandpaper-like bearings on the filament spool rollers going through 2 meters of PTFE tubing and the printer doesn’t skip a beat.

I’m running an Annex Tradrack using their firmware instead of the ERCF, but the HappyHare firmware has similar support for synchronization. Best to pair it with something like the Annex Belay sensor, which controls the feed speed on the MMU so that it doesn’t overrun or underrun the main extruder. That said, I’ve been running the Tradrack for a week without any motor speed feedback since I ran out of D2F-L switches.

 

[PFarm]

Waiting on the aluminum composite bottom panel to button up the electronic bay. Should arrive this week then install the TradRack I've built for the Trident if all works out going to build one for the V2.

 

 

Edited February 24 by PFarm

[PFarm]

The aluminum composite bottom panel arrived this morning to complete the V2 hood style/inverted E bay conversion. This should eliminate the bottom panel warpage caused by the bed heat.

[Penatr8tor]

7 hours ago, PFarm said:

The aluminum composite bottom panel arrived this morning to complete the V2 hood style/inverted E bay conversion. This should eliminate the bottom panel warpage caused by the bed heat.

Yup, that's what I got for my 2.4 refurb. 

Interesting how you chose to do your electronics bay. Do you have to remove the bed and deck panel to gain access? 

[PFarm]

5 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Interesting how you chose to do your electronics bay. Do you have to remove the bed and deck panel to gain access? 

The bed extrusion has hinges on the back side so no removal is required, the panels need to come off to gain access though. I'll most like trim the corners of the panels to clear the Z belt covers.

[Penatr8tor]

Ahhhh... I see... it flips up like a hood or a bonnet depending on where you are.

Pretty cool. Not something I'm going to implement at this time but good to know.

[Dirk]

@PFarm I like your electronics bay. Do you have a link to the 'documentation' on how to do it? a github with bom and if there is none, can you make one?

I love how it looks and if it will prevent me from having to tilt the whole thing every time, I will definitely implement it at some time.

 

[PFarm]

@Dirk I used the V2 Hood Style Mod Link Here and the Trident Inverted Electronic Bay Mod Link Here. The V2 mod has din rail support but I prefer the ones from the Trident. It did require a bit of re-wiring mostly the high voltage connections. The only additional part you'd need is the hinges, I used these from Amazon Hinges. Note that I didn't use the gas shocks suggested in the V2 mod since I read that it bows the bed extrusions. I use a modified Bungie to prop up the bed when I need access to the elec. bay.

[PFarm]

Update on the Tradrack installation on the V2. It's been a slow implementation since I've been wanting to eliminate the buffers. I found the Filamentalist re-winder.  @mvdveer has a build diary started if you're interested. A drawback for me is one of the Canadian filament manufacturers uses a wider filament spool that doesn't fit on this re-winder. I'll be looking at printing a spool transfer to solve that issue.

 

I got Filamentrix and two extruder microswitches installed in the toolhead.

I still need to calibrate the Happy Hare/TradRack next. I got the transistors ordered to build the Filament Stress Sensor this keeps the extruder and TradRack stepper motors synced on long prints.

Edited Monday at 09:23 PM by PFarm

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, PFarm said:

I got the transistors ordered to build the Filament Stress Sensor this keeps the extruder and TradRack stepper motors synced on long prints.

Have you looked at the Belay sensor from annex Engineering? Very little hardware required.

[PFarm]

19 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Have you looked at the Belay sensor from annex Engineering? Very little hardware required.

Thanks, I was able to cancel the transistor order I have the microswitch on hand. I'll be able to put this together and install it in the next few days.

Edited Monday at 11:03 PM by PFarm