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Can't get X, Y or Z End Stops to Work No matter What


voronstress

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Hi all, I just finished building my Voron 2.4R2, and was in the process of testing everything, the motor buzz works when I do all the tests, 

STEPPER_BUZZ  STEPPER = [x,y,z,z1 etc.]

However I cannot for the life of me get the endstops to trigger. For reference I am using a TMC2209 driver, and a BTT Octopus board 1.1?

For reference I am also using TAP, though I think that's an entirely separate issue.

I have attached my .cfg file for convenience if you guys were interested, in helping to diagnose the problem. 

 

voron2.4r.cfg

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1 hour ago, voronstress said:

However I cannot for the life of me get the endstops to trigger.

Have you tested the continuity of the end stops out of the printer. Taking a multimeter, set it to ohms and touch both pins of the endstop - should give a value of 1. (and perhaps beep) If you depress the endstop, this should change the value and the beep should stop. (or vice versa). If this works, then most likely you have a wiring issue. Had a quick look at your printer.cfg file and it looks like the end stops are correctly defined. The end stops are not dependant on the stepper drivers.

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Sorry to be a huge noob, but where are the pins of the end stop? Is this something I need to take my entire end stop apart for to test, I am new to the world of electronics as well, and eager to learn so any information is good. (I have tried to google but maybe I am looking for the wrong thing)

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THe pins would be the two outer pins on the microswitch. That would verify the switch is goo. After that, I'd test from the connector that plugs into the Octopus to verify the wiring is good. Then I'd double check that the endstop wiring is plugged into the correct connector on the Octopus. Double check that you are plugging in to the right locations with this page: https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/electrical/v2_octopus_wiring.html

Tap works a bit differently, and we can tackle that after XY is resolved.

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Ok the X and Y triggers seem to be working after I rewired and retouched up everything. (Now on to TAP lol) I Found the PCB connection wire with the JST microfit however this cable is not very long, do I need to crimp another of my own cables in order to make this solution work?

Edited by voronstress
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Does the wiring from the toolhead go to a PCB on the toolhead or does it run all the way to the electronics bay? If it runs to the electronics bay, you would need to make up a cable from the optical sensor on TAP to the connector on the octopus board. Be very careful of the orientation of 5V, GND, SGN. And just connect to a 5V port on the BTT Octopus board. Use the BL Touch port, works well

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6 hours ago, voronstress said:

Wondering if I ended up with a Faulty Board or something at this point.

Don't think so, TAP can be a challenge at times. Sometimes, even when the connection are correct, the software may be an issue. But that is why we are her - to help troubleshoot and get you up and running.

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I have the same question as @mvdveer. Are you running a toolhead PCB or just wiring straight to the Octopus? The little cable included with the Tap PCB is intended to be used with the hartk toolhead PCBs (single, or 2-piece). Even with those, carefully read the label on the bag--the pre-built cable is directional.

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On 8/24/2023 at 9:55 AM, claudermilk said:

I have the same question as @mvdveer. Are you running a toolhead PCB or just wiring straight to the Octopus? The little cable included with the Tap PCB is intended to be used with the hartk toolhead PCBs (single, or 2-piece). Even with those, carefully read the label on the bag--the pre-built cable is directional.

yeah the pre built cable is very short, do I need to build my own at this point? (What connectors should I be using what gauge wire is 24 AWG ok?)

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On 8/23/2023 at 6:17 PM, mvdveer said:

Does the wiring from the toolhead go to a PCB on the toolhead or does it run all the way to the electronics bay? If it runs to the electronics bay, you would need to make up a cable from the optical sensor on TAP to the connector on the octopus board. Be very careful of the orientation of 5V, GND, SGN. And just connect to a 5V port on the BTT Octopus board. Use the BL Touch port, works well

Sorry to ask what is the BL Touch port?

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1 hour ago, voronstress said:

do I need to build my own at this point? (What connectors should I be using what gauge wire is 24 AWG ok?

You would need to build your own cable and 24AWG is good enough for 5V. The connectors to the TAP would be determined by the TAP PCB connector size, The connector to the Octopus board will be a 5pin JST connector, with only 3 pins used. (5V, GND,PB6) if you are utilising the BT port. If you are using another port, then the connector would be a 3pin JST connector. The size would depend on the ports they plug into. For more on JST connectors - see this post

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Is there a a specific reason to use the BT port vs the 3 pin JST connector? also the connector is 3 pin Jst also i'm guessing should I just make a new cable and recrimp that one completely? (As the one that came with the octopus is very short)

Edited by voronstress
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9 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

You would need to build your own cable and 24AWG is good enough for 5V. The connectors to the TAP would be determined by the TAP PCB connector size, The connector to the Octopus board will be a 5pin JST connector, with only 3 pins used. (5V, GND,PB6) if you are utilising the BT port. If you are using another port, then the connector would be a 3pin JST connector. The size would depend on the ports they plug into. For more on JST connectors - see this post

Does it matter which GND I end up using? as there are 2, one on one end one on the 4th position

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18 minutes ago, voronstress said:

Is there a a specific reason to use the BT port vs the 3 pin JST connector?

You need 5V for TAP and there is a convenient port. However you can use any other 5V port on the Octopus board. (For Example J40, if you set J38 to 5V). To orientate the sketch, J42 is the RJ11 connector.)

image.thumb.png.ae6ccbf67af628c49a91cecf0a6823e6.png

 

10 minutes ago, voronstress said:

Does it matter which GND I end up using? as there are 2, one on one end one on the 4th position

No it does not, Either will do

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15 hours ago, mvdveer said:

You need 5V for TAP and there is a convenient port. However you can use any other 5V port on the Octopus board. (For Example J40, if you set J38 to 5V). To orientate the sketch, J42 is the RJ11 connector.)

image.thumb.png.ae6ccbf67af628c49a91cecf0a6823e6.png

No it does not, Either will do

Is the bottom picture the Opto Tap Sensor? the BL touch uses PB6 not PB7 correct?, does the OPTO Tap sensor connection use a PB7 though?

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16 hours ago, mvdveer said:

You need 5V for TAP and there is a convenient port. However you can use any other 5V port on the Octopus board. (For Example J40, if you set J38 to 5V). To orientate the sketch, J42 is the RJ11 connector.)

image.thumb.png.ae6ccbf67af628c49a91cecf0a6823e6.png

No it does not, Either will do

By Set J38 do you mean the Jumper? mine is currently set to 24V rn

Edited by voronstress
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5 hours ago, voronstress said:

s the bottom picture the Opto Tap Sensor? the BL touch uses PB6 not PB7 correct?, does the OPTO Tap sensor connection use a PB7 though?

Does not matter what pin you use, as long as you define it in your printer.cfg file

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On 8/24/2023 at 9:55 AM, claudermilk said:

I have the same question as @mvdveer. Are you running a toolhead PCB or just wiring straight to the Octopus? The little cable included with the Tap PCB is intended to be used with the hartk toolhead PCBs (single, or 2-piece). Even with those, carefully read the label on the bag--the pre-built cable is directional.

Sorry forgot to quote and answer you, I ended up making my own cable 🙂 since it wasn't long enough. I am wiring straight for now....(CANBUS seems very daunting at this time lol)

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