VZBot 330 AWD

[Penatr8tor]

I wanted to re-visit this thread and give an update on the VzBot.

I upgraded the camera. I had installed a Waveshare OV5640 camera and it was ok but, wasn't good enough for my liking so I ordered one of Luke's Laboratory's cameras. The Waveshare was a slender strip format PCB with a standard 5 MP camera where the Luke's Lab Cam is a square Ardu-cam style PCB. I downloaded the standard case and mount for it and it fit nicely where the other camera was. The camera output is miles better and has IR LED's and a sensor that swaps to night vision mode when the lights are low.

Luke's Lab Camera with normal lighting (screen grab from Klipperoid on my phone)

Night Vision (all lights turned off in the room). Pretty impressive IMO.

 

I also ordered a Nozzle ADXL345 from Provok3D. Below are the results.

On the left is no input shaper. Print is Overture cream Blue PLA @205c - 65c and ~150 mm/s on outside surfaces. Right side is the same print with input shaping turned on.

Below is a 3rd print I did where I increased the global speed from 100% to 150% with no visible difference in output (far right part).

I then changed filament to some Polymaker CF PLA and found something to print that I figured might be a good test to see if I got any ringing. No ringing but I did get a little line at certain points along the Z axis. It looks like it's function of the slicer at that particular junction. Regardless, I still need to tweak some more, or more accurately... I'll be tweaking forever as per usual, , but for now... I'm really liking the output of the Vzbot. One thing I didn't mention is... I was using a .6 Diamondback nozzle before and have since switched over to a .4mm Diamondback. All prints were with the .4mm nozzle and 205c print temp. I also created both PLA and ABS/ASA pre-heat presets where, for PLA, it sets the nozzle to 150c and the bed to 65c. When I hit print... the printer immediately springs to life homing all axis' and performing a 15x15 full bed mesh @ 500 mm/s using the Beacon probe. All this in under 30 seconds. Getting the nozzle to temp and printing takes another ~30 seconds. So, 1 minute from click to print. I am definitely not complaining about that one bit.

If you're wondering about the cable bundle in the back corner... It's from the LL cam. The previous camera cable was too short to make it out of the rear panel, so I used and extension cable. I bundled the cable temporarily so didn't have to access the rear and re-route to the pi. When I attached the ADXL345 to the nozzle... It turned out that, all I needed to do was disconnect the camera and plug in the ADXL. So, for now... I'm leaving it. I'll probably shorten it later on.

 

[5twenty]

On 9/29/2023 at 10:52 AM, Penatr8tor said:

I already agreed to help them with their documentation

Good! I was on discord earlier because of lack of clarity. That is glaring problem for most printers it seems. I get it though, we used to go back and comment after the fact Well, not really, but we had good intentions.

[5twenty]

And that Z-banding looks suspiciously similar to the OD of a pulley...not saying it is, but if you were to take the circ of one of them, I bet it would be pretty close to the same.

Check for a flat spot, or a loose grub screw somewhere.

[Xplaner]

Excellent build log

[Zalnabur]

On 10/31/2023 at 1:00 AM, Penatr8tor said:

I wanted to re-visit this thread and give an update on the VzBot.

I upgraded the camera. I had installed a Waveshare OV5640 camera and it was ok but, wasn't good enough for my liking so I ordered one of Luke's Laboratory's cameras. The Waveshare was a slender strip format PCB with a standard 5 MP camera where the Luke's Lab Cam is a square Ardu-cam style PCB. I downloaded the standard case and mount for it and it fit nicely where the other camera was. The camera output is miles better and has IR LED's and a sensor that swaps to night vision mode when the lights are low.

Luke's Lab Camera with normal lighting (screen grab from Klipperoid on my phone)

Night Vision (all lights turned off in the room). Pretty impressive IMO.

 

HI... Do you have electrical noise issue with the USB camera from the 48v motors? thanks

 

 

[Penatr8tor]

"HI... Do you have electrical noise issue with the USB camera from the 48v motors? thanks"

@Zalnabur

No, No noise issues. The Luke's Lab camera has been the best camera I've tried, not that I've tried a whole bunch of them but I have tried a few. For ~$35 it's worth buying IMO.

[Penatr8tor]

My CPAP hose is looking like it either needs to be replaced or cleaned. I have enough hose (15mm ID) from the build to make a replacement, but I found this on Amazon which I think would look way cooler than the generic white one. I found a site where you can get any color, green, purple, blue, etc but, they want $30 for a hose and it was 22mm ID so there's that. It could be that there are some 15mm colored ones on Aliexpress but I haven't looked yet.

Old CPAP is turning a reddish color... New tubing should be here tomorrow afternoon, and I'll give you my review on tube quality and flexibility. If it totally sux... I only lost 10 bucks, and I still have the old one so, we will see. 

p.s. I'm loving the gas strut mod. Should have done this a long time ago.

[TitusADuxass]

On 10/30/2023 at 7:00 PM, Penatr8tor said:

I wanted to re-visit this thread and give an update on the VzBot.

I upgraded the camera. I had installed a Waveshare OV5640 camera and it was ok but, wasn't good enough for my liking so I ordered one of Luke's Laboratory's cameras. The Waveshare was a slender strip format PCB with a standard 5 MP camera where the Luke's Lab Cam is a square Ardu-cam style PCB. I downloaded the standard case and mount for it and it fit nicely where the other camera was. The camera output is miles better and has IR LED's and a sensor that swaps to night vision mode when the lights are low.

Luke's Lab Camera with normal lighting (screen grab from Klipperoid on my phone)

Night Vision (all lights turned off in the room). Pretty impressive IMO.

I also ordered a Nozzle ADXL345 from Provok3D. Below are the results.

On the left is no input shaper. Print is Overture cream Blue PLA @205c - 65c and ~150 mm/s on outside surfaces. Right side is the same print with input shaping turned on.

Below is a 3rd print I did where I increased the global speed from 100% to 150% with no visible difference in output (far right part).

I then changed filament to some Polymaker CF PLA and found something to print that I figured might be a good test to see if I got any ringing. No ringing but I did get a little line at certain points along the Z axis. It looks like it's function of the slicer at that particular junction. Regardless, I still need to tweak some more, or more accurately... I'll be tweaking forever as per usual, , but for now... I'm really liking the output of the Vzbot. One thing I didn't mention is... I was using a .6 Diamondback nozzle before and have since switched over to a .4mm Diamondback. All prints were with the .4mm nozzle and 205c print temp. I also created both PLA and ABS/ASA pre-heat presets where, for PLA, it sets the nozzle to 150c and the bed to 65c. When I hit print... the printer immediately springs to life homing all axis' and performing a 15x15 full bed mesh @ 500 mm/s using the Beacon probe. All this in under 30 seconds. Getting the nozzle to temp and printing takes another ~30 seconds. So, 1 minute from click to print. I am definitely not complaining about that one bit.

 

If you're wondering about the cable bundle in the back corner... It's from the LL cam. The previous camera cable was too short to make it out of the rear panel, so I used and extension cable. I bundled the cable temporarily so didn't have to access the rear and re-route to the pi. When I attached the ADXL345 to the nozzle... It turned out that, all I needed to do was disconnect the camera and plug in the ADXL. So, for now... I'm leaving it. I'll probably shorten it later on.

@Penatr8tor I just caught up on this post, now you've given me another list of upgrades

I've found the nozzle adxl on ebay.de - some chancer wants 35€ for one!! Can you give me a link to the camera please - I'll order both direct from them and pay the import duty.

[Penatr8tor]

5 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

@Penatr8tor I just caught up on this post, now you've given me another list of upgrades

I've found the nozzle adxl on ebay.de - some chancer wants 35€ for one!! Can you give me a link to the camera please - I'll order both direct from them and pay the import duty.

That price isn't too far away from what I paid for my nozzle ADXL. I paid around $26US for a Provok3D unit from West3D.

This is the last camera I bought. It's the same as the camera Luke's Lab was selling and around the same price. Hopefully you can find it on Amazon DE.

Arducam 1080p

[TitusADuxass]

@Penatr8tor Just for SnGs I plugged my logitech billybasic webcam in and checked with dmesg -HW, and it was recognised. Then I just set it up in mainsail and it works fine. 

I just need to print a mount for it now.

Then I realised that the Beacon has an accelerometer built in - and I've been using it (senior moment)!

To celebrate saving of about 50 yoyos I'm going to the pub, it's about 28c outside and I'm thirsty.

[Penatr8tor]

9 minutes ago, TitusADuxass said:

@Penatr8tor Just for SnGs I plugged my logitech billybasic webcam in and checked with dmesg -HW, and it was recognised. Then I just set it up in mainsail and it works fine. 

I just need to print a mount for it now.

Then I realised that the Beacon has an accelerometer built in - and I've been using it (senior moment)!

To celebrate saving of about 50 yoyos I'm going to the pub, it's about 28c outside and I'm thirsty.

Most webcams work without issue. I'm using an off brand $20 Nexico webcam on my RatRig. What's nice about the Arducam is night vision. 

Yeah, I was wondering about the Beacon, I just assumed you wanted the nozzle ADXL for your other printers without beacon.

Have fun! And if I were there, I'd definitely have one with ya, Cheers 

[mvdveer]

7 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

I'm going to the pub,

Prost

[Codex]

On 8/22/2024 at 9:31 PM, Penatr8tor said:

My CPAP hose is looking like it either needs to be replaced or cleaned. I have enough hose (15mm ID) from the build to make a replacement, but I found this on Amazon which I think would look way cooler than the generic white one. I found a site where you can get any color, green, purple, blue, etc but, they want $30 for a hose and it was 22mm ID so there's that. It could be that there are some 15mm colored ones on Aliexpress but I haven't looked yet.

Old CPAP is turning a reddish color... New tubing should be here tomorrow afternoon, and I'll give you my review on tube quality and flexibility. If it totally sux... I only lost 10 bucks, and I still have the old one so, we will see. 

p.s. I'm loving the gas strut mod. Should have done this a long time ago.

Awesome build and build log! Can you please share the gas strut model?

[Penatr8tor]

8 hours ago, Codex said:

Awesome build and build log! Can you please share the gas strut model?

Thanks! Happy to share. I accidentally posted the gas strut mod in my RatRig V-Core update thread. Below is a faithful recreation of the post.

There are STLs for the updated hinges (the drop-in hinges won't work anymore)

And here's an Amazon link to the Gas Struts I bought. And also, a link for the angled Ball Mounts.

If you don't have access to Amazon or want to buy from someplace else... The struts are N45 10" (25.4cm) stroke, 10lb force gas struts and you'll 100% need to swap out your hinges for the ones I have linked below.

 

Edited August 24 by Penatr8tor
Forgot something...

[Penatr8tor]

 

I'm adding a mod I've had on the back burner for quite a while and finally got around to getting it installed.

I've been working on installing gas struts to the lid of the old VZ330. 

I ordered a set of (2) 10" (25.4cm) long gas struts with 10lbs of force from Amazon. And also got it bundled with (4) 90 degree 10mm ball backets.

 

The brackets mounted easily onto the 2020 extrusions of the printer and after my first try mounting them, I quickly ran into my first issue and also why I shelved the mod.

What happened was that the force of the gas spring pushed the hinges up and out of their sockets. The VzBot hinges are designed such that they slot into a bracket on the rear of the printer. This lets you remove the lid by just lifting it straight off the printer. Great for lifting off the lid, crappy for using gas struts. 

So, in true Penatr8tor fashion... I redesigned them to be solid. The one on the right is the old design, the left is my new design. @TitusADuxass @mvdveer here's the two hinges (left and right) VZ330_Hinge 1pc_R.stlVZ330_Hinge 1pc_L.stl The lid hinges are the VzBot ones.

And here's the hinge mounted.

 

Next I installed the lid and attached the two bottom ball mounts all the way to the rear of the top 2020 extrusion and then installed the top mounts near the top center 2020 extrusion on the lid. I did have to fiddle around and tune the placement so that I got the right balance. Too far forward and the lid doesn't open enough, too far back and it won't close all the way.

And here ya go... Open and closed.

 

 

 

[Codex]

On 8/24/2024 at 5:19 PM, Penatr8tor said:

I'm adding a mod I've had on the back burner for quite a while and finally got around to getting it installed.

I've been working on installing gas struts to the lid of the old VZ330. 

I ordered a set of (2) 10" (25.4cm) long gas struts with 10lbs of force from Amazon. And also got it bundled with (4) 90 degree 10mm ball backets.

The brackets mounted easily onto the 2020 extrusions of the printer and after my first try mounting them, I quickly ran into my first issue and also why I shelved the mod.

What happened was that the force of the gas spring pushed the hinges up and out of their sockets. The VzBot hinges are designed such that they slot into a bracket on the rear of the printer. This lets you remove the lid by just lifting it straight off the printer. Great for lifting off the lid, crappy for using gas struts. 

So, in true Penatr8tor fashion... I redesigned them to be solid. The one on the right is the old design, the left is my new design. @TitusADuxass @mvdveer here's the two hinges (left and right) VZ330_Hinge 1pc_R.stlVZ330_Hinge 1pc_L.stl The lid hinges are the VzBot ones.

And here's the hinge mounted.

Next I installed the lid and attached the two bottom ball mounts all the way to the rear of the top 2020 extrusion and then installed the top mounts near the top center 2020 extrusion on the lid. I did have to fiddle around and tune the placement so that I got the right balance. Too far forward and the lid doesn't open enough, too far back and it won't close all the way.

And here ya go... Open and closed.

Thank you so much for the detailed reply and the modeled parts! Will try to share some photos of my build with this mod once completed.

[Codex]

On 9/5/2023 at 4:42 PM, Penatr8tor said:

It's been a fun, busy and exciting weekend...

As for the VzBot... I saw a video from Simon Vez regarding the noise generated by the CPAP fan. His solution was to create an intake muffler, problem is... The muffler was designed for a 235 VZBot which has the CPAP at an angle and the 330 I'm building the CPAP fan is mounted horizontally. So, I designed an adapter.

Here are the 3 parts from top to bottom. Cover (stock), Adapter and Muffler (stock). Everything uses M3 screws and the short Voron style inserts.

Muffler is double wall with perforations inside to promote muffling LOL

Muffler installed into cover. I had to find an M3x5 screw for the tab.

Here's the bracket mounted to the rear panel. My first design centered the cover between the CPAP mounting screws, but a quick test revealed a number of interferences that prevented it from working so, back to the drawing board. What evolved was and offset design that shifted the muffler left and down enough to clear everything. Adapter is held onto the rear panel with the CPAP mounting screws and the inserts are for the cover.

And here it is... Mounted in all its glory. 

And a close up of the corner with adapter poking out. It'll be interesting to see how or if it works.

Lastly... Sorry for the crappy looking prints. The print quality of my Voron 2.4 has been declining over time. So much so that I executed a highly detailed and scientific test regimen to determine the cause. Basically, I grabbed the toolhead and pulled and twisted it to determine if it was loose. And guess what? It was! So, I disassembled everything and the 3 screws that hold the rail on had come loose. So, a little tightening, some loctite and I was back in business. Except for one thing... I'm now getting a "probe triggered" error. A little investigating, aka pulling and yanking on stuff, I determined that the distance required to trigger the sensor was almost non-existent. I could easily trigger the probe by hand and if I let the head down slowly... I could get the head to rest while leaving the sensor still triggered. Of course, a light tap on the top and it was open again. I remember some people having this same issue when TAP first came out so if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated.An

Can you please share the muffler parts you designed? As you wrote the stock muffler does not fit the vz330. Your work is awesome.

[Penatr8tor]

On 9/23/2024 at 5:58 AM, Codex said:

Can you please share the muffler parts you designed? As you wrote the stock muffler does not fit the vz330. Your work is awesome.

Sure.

Below are the stock Muffler Airbox and Baffle in case you don't have them. If you've already printed them then you only need the adapter.

CPAP Muffler Airbox.stl

CPAP Muffler Baffle.stl

and the adapter

CPAP Muffler Adapter_Vz330-R01.stl

Cheers!

Enjoy your build, happy to help.

I also redesigned the door side hinges so that they can be printed without supports.

Print with blue face on build plate.

VZ330_Door Side Hinge_PK.stl