R2. Stealthburner (canbus) and Tap. "XY axis Endstop PCB" or Tap mounted individual switch?

[Pauly]

Hey folks,

I still need to upload my build diary, but a little bit of forward planning in relation to the printhead and endstops for when I get to that part of the build.

I'm building an R2 with tap and a Stealthburner head utilising Canbus. In the tap manual, it describes two methods of using a microswitch endstop:

• One is attached to the Tap body "trident Style"
• Alternatively, it notes the standard XY endstop pod. XY Endstop Pod - Github

(see attached screenshot from p30 of the Tap manual)

The Tap will now control the Z endstop. Is it just a matter of choice on the tap mount versus XY Pod? With the tap mount, I'd need to have a separate Y switch somewhere though. (I haven't got to that part of doco on how this would be done yet)

Any recommendations on which option to use of these two? (I know there's hall effect and now switchless options available, but I'm already taking a pretty big leap on the setup, for this my first build.)

Thanks.

Pauly

Edited June 27, 2023 by Pauly

[mvdveer]

I have my switches flipped and have been working pretty well so far (Since the first TAP release).

        

[mvdveer]

If you are going canbus, I would use the X-endstop on the TAP as that eliminates a wire running along the Y-axis cable chain for the X-endstop on the XY pod. Another mod is to eliminate the Y-endstop wire and thus getting rid of this cable chain by mounting the endstop on the AB motor mount. (here is one example)

In Summary:

1. Do not use XY endstop pod

2. Mount X-Endstop to the TAP body and wire to the Canbus on the toolhead

3. Mount the Y-enstop on the AB Motor mount (Here is an example of this on Github, or a simple solution on printables)

4. You don't need a Z-endstop - TAP takes over this function

I will avoid Hall effect or sensorless homing for the time being - get the machine up and running and if you then want - change. As long as you use good microswitches(Omron), you should not have a problem.

Hope it clarifies it for you

[Pauly]

On 6/27/2023 at 10:55 AM, mvdveer said:

2. Mount X-Endstop to the TAP body and wire to the Canbus on the toolhead

Follow up question regarding relocating the x-limit to the Tap body instead of the gantry mounted original setup.

I've now got this recommended setup, but am wondering if I need to have a modified "bump stop" added to the right X-Y joint? As seen in the attached photo, the limit switch comes up to the angled surface of the X-Y Joint. The toolhead is pushed up very close to the gantry if this limit is to be triggered.

The original "endstop pod" printed part, puts the joint mounted limit switch a little bit away from the joint assembly, so looks to give a bit more clearance of the toolhead from the gantry.

Lots of searching for answers only gave me this reference to the issue in a video on youtube @ 11:21 in, where the creator made a modified part, for the x-limit to trigger against. But this was for a Voron variation, so the part he made wasn't able to retrofit to the Voron X-Y Joint part.

Also found this on printables. This is tackling the same issue on a Voron 1.8.  https://www.printables.com/model/361213-voron-18-lower-right-xy-joint-for-stealthburner, where the creator produced a modified lower right XY joint "to allow hitting the X Limit Switch"

Hope this makes sense.

 

Edited October 27, 2023 by Pauly

[theskitzofrantic]

On 10/28/2023 at 12:51 AM, mvdveer said:

I have my switches flipped and have been working pretty well so far (Since the first TAP release).

        what size are the screws that go into the carriage to hold the x endstop?

 

 

[Pauly]

I have this - very dodgy - mod to my gantry mount to address exactly the same issue you're querying.

I just used Tinkercad to add a flat bumper to my existing lower mount so that the Tap mounted limit switch would actually have something to hit (due to the sloping fall away of the part otherwise)

I've attached the stl for this, as well as a modified (again Tinkercad dodgy effort) version of the original mount removing the slope and adding a couple of mm in the direction that the tap limit switch will be coming from.  (maybe I should put these on thingiverse or something?)

For the bolt on version, which I've used, I have it lining up with the original part holes and just used a slightly longer bolt for the two mounting holes.

Haven't actually tested yet, as my build has stalled for a few months. Need to get back into it ASAP!

XY-joint-lower-right-tap-mod.stlXY-joint-tap-limit-bump-stop.stl

 

[Pauly]

Or of course, I could have used my brain and turned the limit upside down, just as MV did.

(Shakes head at the simple solution he could have used..)

[Penatr8tor]

11 hours ago, theskitzofrantic said:

On 10/27/2023 at 11:51 PM, mvdveer said:

I have my switches flipped and have been working pretty well so far (Since the first TAP release).

        what size are the screws that go into the carriage to hold the x endstop?

More than likely the screws are M2.5. They could also be M2. Generally, when you buy a CNC TAP it comes with the screws.