Vorpal 180 - A Printed Printer

[atrushing]

Print Volume: 180 x 180 x 200mm

This is a design that I am still finalizing but the Linear rails and plexi panels should provide most of the structure. It is a cross between a V0.1 and a Trident using the bed from a Prusa Mini for the build plate.

I don't know how quickly this will get built but I am starting to print parts already and I have all of the components in hand.

Edited April 30, 2023 by atrushing

[atrushing]

The X axis is built around an MGN12 rail while the rest of the axes use MGN9 rails. It will fit a Mini Stealth toolhead on a standard x-frame setup and use a Biqu MicroProbe as the Z Axis endstop.

[atrushing]

The Bill of Materials is rather straightforward and as I verify more of the printer I will probably upload it as a Google Sheet. Right now the build cost sits under €600 without the printed parts.

[atrushing]

The Z axis is belted using a BMG 50:17 gear setup to maintain mechanical step accuracy and to minimize the risk of the bed dropping when the power is turned off.

[atrushing]

The brains of the beast will be a Manta M8P with the CB1 module.

[Buurman]

Looks awesome, even though.. tophat.. I hate this thing.. how often I have broken this thing...

But very ambitious and looking pretty cool!! Good size also! good call o nthe manta board also, keeping it efficient!

I am really curious and will follow it closely! respect! 

[atrushing]

1 hour ago, Buurman said:

Looks awesome, even though.. tophat.. I hate this thing.. how often I have broken this thing...

Yeah, I understand that the 0.1 tophat is a love or hate thing.. I have been using the hinged mod on my V0.1 for a long while without any problems at all. I will hack that mod into this new printer.

I just don't like the boxy look of the V0.2 tophat.. The DooMini looks pretty nice but I would like the Vorpal to be a matched set next to my V0.1.

1 hour ago, Buurman said:

good call on the manta board also, keeping it efficient!

The Manta is a great deal too, less than $100 for the board, the CB1 and 8 TMC2209 drivers!

[atrushing]

Moving ahead with some very critical pieces...

A fun part of designing this is that almost every piece is connected to at least three other pieces, so changing one can steamroll into having to modify many others. The design is using symmetry wherever possible.

I will be using the electronics sub-cover from my Trident to make the base of the Vorpal 180. When that is finished and the next layer of pieces are ready I will be able to start fitting things together and get a better feel for how the printer will assemble.

The mini12864 display will be fixed at 30° but the wedge piece should be easy to modify for other angles.

[atrushing]

I have finally printed the first part on my Switchwire.

A template for the bottom plate. If I had enclosed the Switchwire I could have printed the whole plate directly in ABS but since the glass bed has a 0.5mm dish to it, I will hold off on the enclosure until I can find a better 310x310mm build plate solution (recommendations are welcomed).

[atrushing]

The design has passed the first sanity check! There are a few parts that need to be adjusted and re-printed but that is only to be expected..

[atrushing]

Using a bandsaw, belt sander, drill press and hand files I turned the purple template into a nice textured base plate.

While assembling this much of the printer I learned how important it is to take ABS shrinkage into account with the design. The printed parts ended up about 2mm smaller over the 244mm depth of the base than designed! By elongating the proper holes in the correct locations I should be able to mitigate the problem. I will also be able to design the straight center sections with the needed extra length so that assembly should go smoothly.

I am getting excited to see this finished and sitting between my V0.1 and my Trident!

[atrushing]

So, here is another view of how the base is assembled. There is room to fit the power supply here but I would rather have it more accessible on the back of the printer.

It uses a sandwich structure to help with rigidity and strength. The way that I am building this, it requires a 250mm printer for the full length skirts but I suppose they could be split to make the printer more true to the RepRap ideal.

The design uses almost 60 Snap Pins to help keep things aligned and cut down on the screw count.

Edited May 11, 2023 by atrushing
fixed wording

[atrushing]

So far I have installed 44 heat-set inserts and that number will only grow. I am looking forward to a fun time making the final screw count.. Here is the current progress and the frame is stiffening up quite well.

And for a fun size comparison!

Unfortunately I can no longer get the original (Obstinate) orange that I used and the new brand is a bit more yellow and translucent..

[sparky06757]

This sir is awesome!  I am following because I will most likely build this when you release.  Would even be willing to help you with testing!

[Penatr8tor]

@atrushing Dude, This is so cool!

Surper stoked to see how it turns out. 

[Buurman]

7 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

@atrushing Dude, This is so cool!

Surper stoked to see how it turns out. 

I second that!!!

[mvdveer]

What a great project - super talented - cannot wait for the final result

[atrushing]

This is my idea of a good time. Working in my basement, listening to Riverside while turning a silly idea into a printer!

The top pieces incorporate 20mm of extra height (compared to a stock V0.1) to allow room for the umbilical cables and the PTFE reverse bowden. I have only finished the front so far as I still need to design how I will mount the spool holder.

The front parts add another 24 heat-set inserts which seems like a lot but, as the linear rails are only mounted to plastic, it is important to spread the load out as much as possible.

The rails add a lot of stiffness and with the plexi panels I think the frame will be quite solid.

And now, with the Z-idlers, the front section is rather complete. The A/B tensioners fit an M3 lock-nut and provide 4mm of movement for 8mm of tensioning.

[sparky06757]

@atrushing What size printer will be required to print this little beauty?  I noticed that in one of your comments you made mention of a 250 being required to print the full length skirts but what about the functional parts only?

[Buurman]

2 hours ago, atrushing said:

This is my idea of a good time. Working in my basement, listening to Riverside while turning a silly idea into a printer!

The top pieces incorporate 20mm of extra height (compared to a stock V0.1) to allow room for the umbilical cables and the PTFE reverse bowden. I have only finished the front so far as I still need to design how I will mount the spool holder.

The front parts add another 24 heat-set inserts which seems like a lot but, as the linear rails are only mounted to plastic, it is important to spread the load out as much as possible.

The rails add a lot of stiffness and with the plexi panels I think the frame will be quite solid.

And now, with the Z-idlers, the front section is rather complete. The A/B tensioners fit an M3 lock-nut and provide 4mm of movement for 8mm of tensioning.

Really, for me.. im looking at MAGIC... man, I love what you are doing here.... respect!

[K3v00]

Wow man your killing it. I might have to consider making one once i finish my 2.4. 

[atrushing]

22 minutes ago, sparky06757 said:

@atrushing What size printer will be required to print this little beauty?  I noticed that in one of your comments you made mention of a 250 being required to print the full length skirts but what about the functional parts only?

I am aiming at having everything else printable on its own print volume.

The skirt pieces are necessary to tie the base structure together but it would be pretty easy to split them and use a pair of screws in the middle to re-connect them. That would require a different base plate though with a specific hole pattern.

The next largest parts are the two back halves of the tophat which are 154x167x96mm. Then the upper_back frame corners are a bit smaller at 110x150x20mm. I guess it might be possible that they could each be subdivided to fit onto a V0.1/V0.2 but then quite a few more screws would be required to assemble everything back together into a solid structure. Also maintaining multiple variations gets complicated pretty quickly.

[sparky06757]

@atrushing That sounds great!  I have a Ender 3 Switchwire conversion that I can print everything but the skirts on but I have a friend that can print the skirts for me.  Looking forward to building this!

[atrushing]

52 minutes ago, sparky06757 said:

I have a Ender 3 Switchwire conversion that I can print everything but the skirts on but I have a friend that can print the skirts for me. 

The side skirts are the longest pieces so I did a quick check and when they are rotated by 45° the required printing area is only 205x205mm.

[sparky06757]

10 minutes ago, atrushing said:

The side skirts are the longest pieces so I did a quick check and when they are rotated by 45° the required printing area is only 205x205mm.

Awesome!!  Thank you!!