cant find the manual for the PCB klicky

[Buurman]

I dont know the official name, guess thats the problem...

But its this Klicky...

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005005023158174.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2nld

Looking for some pointers on it.. 

 

 

EDIT: FOUND IT

https://github.com/tanaes/whopping_Voron_mods/tree/main/pcb_klicky

WHOPPING.. yeah... that was it..

[Penatr8tor]

Looks really cool and very close to a drop-in replacement for the printed klicky.

At $16.00 without shipping it would be foolish not to buy one so I bought one while at the same time telling myself it's good to not do something foolish. LOL

Thanks for sharing @Buurman

 

[edulpn]

PCB based magnetic probes like the PCB Klicky or the Euclid are great ways of eliminating magnet instalation derived repeatability issues. They tend to be a bit more pricy, but not enough to risk having superglue on your fingers for a couple of days or maybe gluing magnets with the wrong polarity even after quadruple checking.

[Buurman]

16 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Looks really cool and very close to a drop-in replacement for the printed klicky.

At $16.00 without shipping it would be foolish not to buy one so I bought one while at the same time telling myself it's good to not do something foolish. LOL

Thanks for sharing @Buurman

Very true, and its super solid.. your choice to keep the switch they put on, or replace it with another, but it seems good enough.

I really enjoyed the phone app to see what polarity the magnets where, as mentioned on the github page.. loved it. (since there are 4 noth and 4 south poled magnets)

[therm_virtual0y]

I did ask this question before but didn’t get an answer and just seeing this post.  I have a BTT Manta m8p on an voron 2.4 and am installing the Klicky PCB but am unsure on how to wire it.  Does it go into the same input pin as the induction probe with the BAT85?  Or can I use 5v power (solder jumper) and ground from the M4 stop pins?  o

[mvdveer]

5 hours ago, therm_virtual0y said:

I did ask this question before but didn’t get an answer and just seeing this post.

Sorry, not normal for around here.

This is the closest to a manual, I could find.

I do not own a manta board, but taking into account the general principles of wiring, you need gnd, pwr and pin for the click probe. On the PCB edition, you have to adjust the power requirements on the board itself:

 

So, if you are using the 24V option, you connect it to the manta board where the inductive probe would have gone through the Bat86 diode as described above

If you decide to go 5V, then you need to adjust the Klicky PCB as discussed above and connect it to any 5V port - can be any endstop pin (GND and Pin) and 5V (The pins marked in orange in the picture below)

 

 

Hope this answers your question.

[Chuck_Snow]

I have the Manta M8P and it has a dedicated Probe port if you want to use the BAT85 Diode then Set the FAN6 Voltage PIN to 24v which is pin VF6 or cut it off and set it to 5v..  PF6 is the Signal wire @therm_virtual0y

I use the port for Tap as well at 5 volts..

[therm_virtual0y]

Yes, thanks so much!  Currently I have it on 24v (no solder jumper) and wired like the description through the Bat85 and hooked up as the original probe was wired (m4 stop pin PC0) but if you have it working on PF6 then I will try that.  I only have to set the pin in the probe config section of the cfg.  Thanks.Anyway, I Just finished all wiring and turned everything on to look at the configuration.  I found a configuration for the M8P with Voron but have not set it up yet.  Now the fun really begins.  Thanks again.  

[mvdveer]

5 hours ago, therm_virtual0y said:

I Just finished all wiring

Looking good - nice and tidy

[therm_virtual0y]

Thanks, the wire way helped but in my next one I think I will mount a cabinet on the back of the printer with extra support feet so I don’t have to flip the printer over to mess with stuff.  I think my OCD is mostly satisfied though haha