Voron Revo Hotend Heater Core

[mvdveer]

Must say, I am seriously loosing faith in this hotend. I now had a failure 80 % through a 8hour print. And this is the third brand new Revo hotend this has happened to. Measuring the heater resistance confirms a heater failure. And though e3d has replaced the previous two, this is now becoming tedious.

Seriously thinking of reverting back to dragon hotends or even v6's

[iNDeX]

I will try the Trianglelab CHC V6 Hotend with ceramic heating core



Or something with more flow

Edited February 16, 2023 by iNDeX

[smirk]

2 hours ago, mvdveer said:

And this is the third brand new Revo hotend

Clearly they don't travel well, there must be too much shaking or radiation in transit. With my recent trip down the rabbit hole I'd been thinking about perhaps splashing the cash and getting a revo.......hmmm.....might reconsider that.

[claudermilk]

White or blue thermistor wires? From what I understand the earlier batches with white wires are the ones with the most trouble. I had two of those go bad on me. Current one in the Trident is a new batch blue wire unit. I also have an original pre-order white wire unit in the Mini that is ok.

You know how the saying goes "don't buy a first model year car"? Yeah. Here we are buying the very first ones out of the factory. It's a little frustrating being at the bleeding edge, but E3D is really good about supporting their product. 

[Ab_Gonzalez]

I have 4 revos out of which I had one failure and I believe the failure is caused by the angle we have to move the wires on stealthburner, I have found that by bending downward it puts a lot of tension on the thermistor wires specifically, by loosening the strain relief while adjusting the shape to fit in the SB I have yet to have another failure.

[smirk]

1 hour ago, Ab_Gonzalez said:

by loosening the strain relief while adjusting the shape to fit in the SB I have yet to have another failure.

That's a really good tip.

[mvdveer]

5 hours ago, claudermilk said:

White or blue thermistor wires?

White. The resellers here in Oz may have bought all the old stock up cheap.

[mvdveer]

5 hours ago, Ab_Gonzalez said:

by loosening the strain relief while adjusting the shape to fit in the SB I have yet to have another failure.

Will give that a go, thanks

[mvdveer]

10 hours ago, Ab_Gonzalez said:

I believe the failure is caused by the angle we have to move the wires on stealthburner

In saying that, wondering if TAP is Revo Friendly?

Took the Revo Voron from one of the V0's.

Have rerouted the angle of the heater wire from the core, less strain on it - lets see

[smirk]

6 hours ago, mvdveer said:

In saying that, wondering if TAP is Revo Friendly?

You thinking, constantly "smacking" the hot-end into the bed ultimately causing enough trauma to cause failure?

Short of getting E3D to sponsor your long term test (involving the two identifcal TAP enabled 2.4's that you will now need to build for the project). The only thing take occurs to me (unless you've tried it) is re-measuring the resistance of the broken heater core nearer the core. What I mean is, I presume you measured the resistance at the molex connector-end of the heater core, at one side of the "flexible" cable-strain. Strip the wires (if possible) next to the heater core, or even if there was some way of measuring at the core (attachment points). Try and eliminate shonky wiring. Granted thats a long-shot, based on me never having seen the heater core close-up at all. Although at the back of my mind I have a suspicion you'll measure at the core as routine.

[mvdveer]

15 minutes ago, smirk said:

you'll measure at the core as routine

Measured at the core and at the wire end.

This is what the heater core looks like - Now you have at least seen one

[smirk]

1 minute ago, mvdveer said:

Measured at the core and at the wire end.

Think you need to convince E3D to sponsor your long term TAP test then......

 

[mvdveer]

26 minutes ago, smirk said:

Think you need to convince E3D to sponsor your long term TAP test then......

Sounds a good idea, somehow I don't think they'll fall for that

[claudermilk]

But...have you seen the inside of one? < checks phone photos > Dangit, I forgot to take pics after "disassembling" my bad one while extracting the nozzle. It was welded in after the blob monster incident.

I think Revo + Tap is fine. Short term, mine is copacetic. There isn't a ton of pressure and it's going to transfer from the nozzle tip through the threads to the heat sink, then to the carriage. The heater should be tough enough to handle that, and is just floating & sandwiched in there and held by that spring when the nozzle is out.

[Penatr8tor]

I've had good results with my Rapido. Honestly, I don't see what the big fuss with the Revo is all about. Tooless nozzle change? I mean I almost never change mine (I know some might change theirs a lot). I have a printed torque driver that only takes a few seconds to loosen and unscrew the Rapido nozzle. Plus it uses a V6 nozzle and the market is flooded with everything from .2 to 1mm apertures and beyond and made from pretty much every material you can think of.

[mvdveer]

7 hours ago, claudermilk said:

copacetic.

Remember I am a Dutchy, had to look this up. Whooah - learned a new word - in excellent order indeed!

7 hours ago, claudermilk said:

There isn't a ton of pressure and it's going to transfer from the nozzle tip through the threads to the heat sink, then to the carriage.

I was just grabbing at straws - I have swapped out the heater core from the Revo on my switchwire as I will be printing PC-ABS and ABS for the parts. This is also a white wire one. Took care in not straining the wire, more specifically where it plugs into the SB2040  - can't see that this is the issue at the hotend side, as there is a metal plate at the heatercore restricting any play on the wires. Just bad luck that I had to have three.

[mvdveer]

51 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

I don't see what the big fuss with the Revo is all about.

One handed cold nozzle changes , longer heatbreak resulting in less clogging (Touch wood - never had a clock in any of the Revo's (Have them on 10 printers - not all Voron), easily accessible, and I am sure the promotion material will state many more.

But, it is just another hotend and does not print any different. There is no magic. It boils down to personal taste, I think.

[Penatr8tor]

6 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

There is no magic. It boils down to personal taste, I think.

Agreed

[claudermilk]

Yep, no magic. I think a large part of the fuss is the cold, one-handed nozzle swaps. Which is really nice. They are not fast hotends, so speed demons won't be interested.

The heater does come to temp really fast, and is super stable once there (so long as it isn't an early production unit that failed).

[Abes Tech Garage]

On 2/16/2023 at 8:29 PM, mvdveer said:

In saying that, wondering if TAP is Revo Friendly?

Took the Revo Voron from one of the V0's.

Have rerouted the angle of the heater wire from the core, less strain on it - lets see

I just finished installing tap with a revo Voron, I thought the force to probe would be greater but it’s right around 700g of force, because the load is straight down I don’t see how it could cause any damage 

[Abes Tech Garage]

On 2/17/2023 at 4:25 PM, mvdveer said:

One handed cold nozzle changes , longer heatbreak resulting in less clogging (Touch wood - never had a clock in any of the Revo's (Have them on 10 printers - not all Voron), easily accessible, and I am sure the promotion material will state many more.

But, it is just another hotend and does not print any different. There is no magic. It boils down to personal taste, I think.

I really like the revo, it’s simple, being honest hotends really just have to be manufactured accurately to be good, that’s the issue I had with the Chinese hotends tolerances would be off causing filament to expand and cause clogs, never had that issue with an E3D or a Slice hotend 

[mvdveer]

Update on the heater saga. Changed the heater core to the one with the blue wires (updated model) Seem to be able to print one print (6-8hours), then the error pops up again. Not wiring - checked that, not crimping - checked that, Even though I have a heatsink and a fan on the Mellow Fly SB2040 canbus board, I notice the temp gets up to around 60C for the mcu on the board. My chamber temp is around 62-63C. Starting to think the SB2040 overheats, then has a hissy fit and shutsdown the hotend.

Going to switch of the bed fans, and keep the doors open to lower the chamber temp and see what happens then

[mvdveer]

Well isn't that interesting. Switched off the Ellis bed fans, printed with the doors open and no more errors.

Temperatures on SB2040 mcu much better though still high. Chamber still adequate for ABS.

Will do another PID tune as well just to eliminate all possible causes. Also printing a Rapido printhead - just in case.

Somehow I feel I was unfair to the Revo-Voron

[claudermilk]

I've had multi-hour  prints with the Revo, though my chamber "only" gets to about mid-40C. Never an issue with the Revo from that. I suspect the CAN board is overheating--it looks toasty. Hmm, just another reason for me to run away from that.

[Penatr8tor]

23 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

...my chamber "only" gets to about mid-40C. 

That's the same temp range my chamber is at. Also no issues.