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Voron TAP and other stuff...


Penatr8tor

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In order to keep the world spinning in the right direction and at a rotational rate of 15 degrees per hour... I have succumbed to the will of the masses and I'm installing a TAP on my Voron 2.4 300^3 so if the world goes to crap... It's not my fault! OK...

All kidding aside, It was time I did a run thru and checked everything as well as installing a new bed heater. For those that don't know... The bed heater that came with my Formbot kit developed an issue with the thermistor where any temps over 70c created an erratic heating condition that would eventually end in an error stopping my print prematurely. I confirmed this by unplugging the bed heater thermistor and running a separate thermistor that I shoved under the heating pad. I used my printer that way for a good couple of months.

So... First up. Remove the build plate, remove the old heater pad and clean off the old glue. I swear... there's got to be a Murphy's law that states: Adhesive always sticks to the part you want to reuse. 😂

396671741_TAP_01_BedRemoved.thumb.jpg.d97d2c8cd2c982289c98681aa64a601e.jpg

 

Glue removal sucked. But then again... when is it ever easy LOL

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Needed to drill and tap a couple M5 holes for the ground and thermal fuse.

1540638101_TAP_03_NewHeatingPad.thumb.jpg.0586b493583601e3febf00d19868c653.jpg

 

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23 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

WD40 Absolutely the best for this kind of thing.

WD40 is 90% kerosene 10% mineral oil. I have acetone, kerosene and alcohol. The acetone worked the best so that's what I went with. I also switched over to single edge razor blade, the putty knife wasn't cutting it. 😅

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Acetone has always worked best for me as well along with a lethally sharp instrument of some sort. I can fully sympathise your experience, not the first heated bed pad I've replaced either (after having bodged an extra thermistor underneath). Almost makes me think I should always install an extra one anyway as a "just in case".

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16 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

In order to keep the world spinning in the right direction and at a rotational rate of 15 degrees per hour... I have succumbed to the will of the masses and I'm installing a TAP on my Voron 2.4 300^3 so if the world goes to crap... It's not my fault! OK...

excellent-youre-one.jpg.06bec81aa797cf83566d380fbfbf9e82.jpg

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OK, So the TAP is installed and working. I've done some test prints, dialed in the Z offset and am now officially back up and running. I still need to do some tidying up but for the most part it's done and I'm happy.

Removed printhead and replaced X axis toolhead mount with the new TAP mount. Belts were way easier than expected.

462820680_TAP_04_NewToolheadMount.thumb.jpg.86cab841d1f0a494245b531853b7bdec.jpg

TAP Faceplate installed

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I took the opportunity to clean up my hotend and nozzle, Diamond tip nozzle shows no wear after miles of filament.

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I don't think I mentioned this but... I went and bought an LGX Lite extruder and installed that in place of my old CW1. Below are a couple screen grabs from Fusion 360 where I assembled everything in CAD to check for any interferences.

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Here's the result. Overall everything went well, I had zero issues other that a couple swapped fan connectors. Not gonna lie... I had to crimp quite a bit since I decided to upgrade the extruder, bed heater and TAP all in one go but, I'm getting better and it's not as intimidating as it was.

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Lastly I want to mention... There was talk of needed a 2.2 Ohm resistor solder inline on the power leg (and I bought some) because a power on spike could fry the sensor. Well... Since that only occurs when supplying 24V to the sensor... I decided to change the probe voltage jumper on my Octopus 1.1 from 24V down to 5V. Problem solved. No need to solder a resistor in line.

 

Edited by Penatr8tor
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