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Klipper pushed a large update, which seems to be the BTT branch of Klipper that supports the BTT Eddy probe. This has as consequence that ALL probes that have a klipper plugin, like Beacon and Cartographer, have to follow the same routine that the BTT Eddy probe requires. This has as consequence that these probes did not function as soon as the update was applied. Luckily the programmers quickly reacted and within a few hours there was already an update from Beacon and Cartographer. HOWEVER, with such a huge update, which cost BTT almost a year to (have) develop(ed), issues still may arise. So do like I did, and wait a bit longer before updating... Do not fix something that works perfectly. And if you already did update, and you have a completely useless printer and are considering going back to TAP or Klicky, run this command in your SSH, which will reset all updates from github back to the time before the BTT-Klipper. cd ~/klipper git reset 6cd174208bd9bbd51dc0d519a26661fb926d038a --hard After this, a reboot (power recycle) may be necessary.

Hey all, I just installed an active chamber heater in the Trident! Also doubles as a bed heater (active--thus the motion blur). For whatever reason he's become fascinated with the printer lately. Now I really have to keep on top of cleaning the purge lines & skirts; can't have him eating them. Also have to keep the top panel on even for PLA because, yes, the dumbshit tried climbing in while it was running.

As the title states, I picked up a Milo V1.5 110v US Kit from Hector at Fabreeko last week while I was in Fort Lauderdale during the holidays. Here we are getting scorched by the afternoon sun, Milo is in the trunk with Steve Builds old Subaru that Hector bought from him in the background. Awesome guy, he gave me a full tour of his very impressive shop and warehouse. A number of things he sells he makes himself on a HAAS H2 mill and laser. I have to finish up my Voron 2.4 refurb first then I start on the Milo. Of course, there will be a build diary so stay tuned. I'm going to build a bone stock Milo at this point (famous last words, I know) if I do anything it will most likely be chip/swarf management related. I'll be printing parts in anticipation of the build. When I get those going I'll start a diary. Cheers everyone, Hope you had an awesome holiday! Pete aka Penatr8tor

This is quite misguided. I am a director of BTT and oversee the design process. I can assure you that BTT makes every effort to investigate issues, solve them and then iteratively improve on designs. A perfect case study is the thermistor circuit in question. Some on this thread have asked why it is designed the way that it is and our answer to that is simply this: try to kill our MCU by shorting 24V to the thermistor input (more common than you think when people clean with a wire brush and the hotend is active). You simply can't because the MCU is well protected by a high input impedance and any additional power is shunted to the power rails. This will not be the case on some other manufacturers with different circuits. We don't have a 100k resistor not because we want to save the absolutely, completely, thoroughly insignificant amount of money that a resistor costs to place but rather because we used to ground these holes and that caused ground loops. We never considered that a slow discharge would help with ESD events but now that is something that we are going to take into consideration and use to iteratively improve. Additionally, we will also be adding some ESD absorption circuitry to the thermistor input to save the thermistor in case of an ESD event.

For those interested - a KlipperScreen add on for the Box Turtle running AFC software. Github repository:

Update: Shortly after posting this I dove back into Eddy a little bit. I went through the github issues and spoke with a few people who had attempted to use eddy and I'd like to make a brief update here. Eddy is FINE to use, if you use the same temperatures all the time. If you swap between say PLA and ABS, you will just have to make sure because of the temperature differences, that eddy probes correctly if you're using it to home Z. If you are just doing bed mesh using eddy, you're golden. My grip is mostly the z-offset side of things and the temperature issues. If you dont have a heated chamber, you're more than likely going to have an excellent time. If you do heat your chamber >60c you MAY or MAY NOT have issues. Hey Everyone, Firstly, I'm fairly new here, but I know my way around, like to believe I have exceptional problem solving skills and I enjoy helping those that're struggling and I know how to help. This is just a collection of my findings and thoughts where it comes to BTT Eddy, and its just my opinion and I'm probably wrong for some things so feel free to fill me in with more details. I had BTT Eddy in my hands very early the day of release. First things first, went straight to BTT github to get the documentation, nowhere to be found. Alright, weird. I waited, wasnt long but eventually they uploaded.. well something. BTT I find is notorious for terrible documentation, but this.. this was a MESS. Eddy comes currently in two versions. Eddy Coil and "Eddy". The naming scheme alone, sucks. They both have a coil and only one is USB. Maybe name them as such? - Eddy USB - Eddy I2C - Eddy CAN Anyway, I struggled to work my way through it, at the time there was no information on where the "boot" button was, there was no distinction between instructions for Eddy USB or Eddy "Coil". Made suggestions to BTT which they added thankfully but still not great. Figured it out on my own regardless after some stuffing around, a couple spelling errors on my behalf but was solved pretty quick. Immediately encounter issues not limited to: - Firmware wouldnt flash correctly, youd have to try numerous times before it would work. - Eddy would Z-Hop. - Temperature Drift was bogus to work out. - Z offset wouldnt save, whenever printer restarted youd have to calibrate z height again. The list went on and on. There was no documentation regarding information that was hard coded, meaning if an error appeared you had no idea why. Theres no debugging information at all either. Eventually, its in a semi working state and i managed some prints. Still cant solve the Z offset issue, you need to adjust it whenever the printer resets or hard code the z-height in with gcode, which meant your nozzle could crash if the height changed for whatever reason.. NOT GOOD. Spent a full day trying to help @flyespresso work out why he couldnt get QGL to work with his eddy as well. It produced nothing but bad meshes. Like, HORRIBLE. A teenager riddled with acne would have a smoother mesh. He eventually gave up went back to TAP and his meshes went back to being perfect, clearly eddy was an issue. My problems from there only got worse, my chamber temp would sit at around 60c, eddy would range from 80c normally BUT you would see spike to well over 100c, and from there.. Eddy MCU disconnect issues. All the time!! I can get maybe 1 or 2 prints before a D/C. Ive tried to replicate it manually, cant seem to find a trigger. Tested the usb cable etc all seem to be fine. Problem to this day persists. The issue tickets on both my guides github and btt's are piling up with little to no response from BTT. Im not alone in this issue with disconnects now anymore either. I've tried multiple different mainboards, cables, klipper installations, firmware updates and reflashes, nothing seems to change it. The next whole week after writing up a HUGE document as a guide for those configuring eddy, the amount of people 15+ that've come to me asking for help with issues is crazy. Some gave up, others just put up with it. Its a mess of a product, im sorry. I just cant recommend it in its current state. I hope with some firmware changes it can be made better, i really do. Whether or not the hardware also has issues.. i'm not fully sure but it seems like it. I got a refund from my local store, instantly went and bought x2 cartographers and havent had an issue since. You want my recommendation? Cartographer. The support there is CONSTANTLY in communication with the community. So even if you do encounter something, at the very least you'll get a response and fast! You can find my guide on github here Anyway, Just my thoughts. Chris - KrauTech

Well, I bit the bullet @7milesup. Here is the build diary of the Box Turtle AMS style Filament changer from Armored turtle. The Preamble: Decided on a Green and Gold (Actually it is yellow) colour scheme - I am in Australia after all! Opened the stl file configurator from the Build manual website, which gathers the stl's you need and packs it in a zip file for downloading. This is one of the things I really like - no sifting through directories of stl's to find what you need to print. Answer a few questions and away you go. I also like the way the build manual is compiled. (as is my habit, I read through the manual before starting the project). Though it is web based, and not in downloadable pdf form, it works. Instructions are clear and most of all, they are accompanied by a 3d-rotatable picture of the step you are at - Love it! No more twisting of necks to see exactly what needs to be done - just rotate the image. In addition to the Box Turtle stl's, you'll need to decide on an extruder sync sensor (Toolhead Buffer). I chose the Turtleneck buffer system as I have the Belay sensor on the Tradrack and wanted to build something different. The turtleneck has been advanced to the turtleneck 2, but that requires a dedicated PCB (Turtleneck2 MCU). (I may just order that - see how it goes). This can be ordered from Isik's Tech Site, as well as the dedicated ACF board. In addition to the toolhead buffers, a filament sensor is needed in the toolhead. I choose the integrated one's for the stealth burner from the ERCF project, as all the printers already have these toolhead installed. The other option is the Armoredturtle Filatector in-line sensor. (So spoiled for choice) The Build: 1. Box Turtle introduction. The introduction goes through the print settings, explanation of instructions, assembly queues and links to the stl-generator, GitHub and discord. It also discusses part selection and this is handy when it comes to using the stl-generator. I would suggest printing the "Calibration Fidget" in order to determine your printer tolerances, especially if you will be using two seperate printers to print the parts. (I generally load the bigger of the printers with the main colour parts and another smaller printer with the accent colour parts). The printers used on this build was the VZBot 330 for the main coloured parts, The Trident 300, for the accents and the V0.2 for the clear, opaque and TPU parts. Next: 2. Boxturtle Frame

Nothing really changing on this--it's getting occasional use lately. But a fun little anecdote. My daughter needed a prop for a book report project in school. The book was The Boys In The Boat and she wanted a racing shell model as a display. I managed to find one on Printables; a single-seat modern one, but it gets the idea across. I made sure to use the V0 that she built and told her to mention that fact. The report went well (she got an A. ) and she said the teacher mentioned that was the first time anyone used a 3d printed prop. She later told me she also got extra credit after telling the teach that she built the printer used to produce the boat model.

TRIP: Thought I'd share a few photos of our trip across the Nullabour Plain. (Treeless plain) Everyone living in Australia should do this. Had an amazing time and the sights were incredible. Did a total of 7252kmm (4776 miles) in 17 days - and I will do it again. The Raptor performed exceptionally well. Lots to beach driving as well as some off road trials. Unfortunately back to reality now! It sucks! PRINTERS: Better get back to the printers to restore my sanity. Have upgraded all the cartographers (Trident 250, Trident 300 Voron 2.4 300 and Voron 2.4 350) to touch and must say I am impressed. Used the Siboor guide and upgraded all 4 machines without issues. Still intending in upgrading to the Beacon H eventually (I have 4 of them in a tub waiting to be used). Frames are build for the clicky clack (Fridge doors) doors for the above 4 printers. First time I ordered from Misumi - Japan - and boy am I impressed. Quality and packaging - just wow!!. Awaiting the panels from the local supplier and currently printing the hinges, etc. All printers have been serviced Also need to bring the V2.4 300 in to update the motor mounts and idlers with the aluminium parts that has been sitting around for the past 6 months or so! Sigh........... Also need to decide what to do with the two ender 5's in storage. (a 5 and 5 Plus). Both are heavily modified already with linear rails and stealth burner toolheads. Was going to buy a Ratrig VCore 4 for something to do, but at nearly $5000AUD, I just cannot justify it, no matter how much I love this hobby. So do something with the enders! @7milesup - I have bitten the bullet and self sourced the parts for the Armored turtle - BoxTurtle. Have ordered the custom PCB and this has just shipped. Will do a build diary once all the parts are received. Kits are on backorder here in Oz (shipping in January 2025) and sell for around $500AUD. Sourced all the parts including the custom PCB for around $220AUD (including shipping) and should have all parts here in a couple of weeks. So for multicolour printing: Voron 2.4 350 - ERCF V2 Trident 300 - Tradrack Voron 2.4 300 - Tradrack Trident 250 - Intend to use armored turtle Til next time!

Hey, i hope you're all doing well out there. Just wanted to say thank you guys. Many of you had suggestions and tips that really helped me out. Especially @Dirk @mvdveer @claudermilk. Took me some dang time, but i got it about where i wanted it and its awsome. Just got my serial request in, so i deem it "finished", as far as an ongoing project can ever be. I'll have an iced beverage on you guys.

Did you guys hear that FedEx and UPS are merging? The new company will be called FedUp, although they also considered EffdUp.

I've been working on the electronics bay. This is the #2 reason why I decided to do a refurb, 1st being the warped deck plate. It was my first printer kit and I just bundled and stuffed the supplied wiring as best as I could. Before... ...and what I have currently. Last night I focused on getting all of the toolhead wiring completed. Only things I have left to do is the TAP/Probe wire, LED wires, X end stop, exhaust fan and a couple things here and there. I'm hoping to power her up this afternoon.

I retired my old multimeter, which I used at work for over 20 years. I thought I'd give this meter from Aliexpress a try, I have to say I'm impressed shipping was quick, at $32.00 CND it was worth the gamble. Multimeter Nice features and the large digital display is great, eyes aren't what they used to be.

There is a lot of discussion regarding calibration of printers. Most of us, I would say, follow the Andrew Ellis Tuning guides to the letter. I think it is still the GOLD standard for calibration. A step by step approach and reliable most of the times. I think it has set the benchmark for calibration. And.... no calibration cubes - Voron or other Stefan from CNC kitchen takes different approach and for me, a more scientific method. The draw back - it is time consuming to say the least. He also states that Calibration cubes are not really that valuable. Who am I to go against these great minds? But.... I have come across a calibration cube that I find quite valuable and has me made printing calibration cubes again. Soon I will have a collection matching the "ducks in a row" from all the BTT gear I bought. Maybe, just maybe - this may help someone calibrate their printer even more than the above methods. I for one, have found it quite useful

Hm... I think it was like so. First i installed and configured the TAP Probe and tested it. Then i commented out the TAP configuration and did the Cartographer installation and configuration. Then i mixed it. The trick was to not use "endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop" in the stepper_z configuration, as it looks like the "z_virtual_endstop" is hard-coded in the cartographer software. Instead i assign the TAP as endstop_pin like so: endstop_pin: !EBBCan: PB9 position_endstop: -0.536 #endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop position_max: 310 position_min: -5 homing_speed: 10 second_homing_speed: 5 homing_retract_dist: 0 I seams that the "z_virtual_endstop" is hard-coded in the cartographer software. Here my Backup Repository. https://github.com/DerHolgi/Voron24-Klipper-Backup

Of course. One cave-at though. The QGL you see there makes use of klippers fast mode. If you define the horizontal_move_z to low enough (3 here) it stops with lifting the Z up and simply moves without lifting. If you have a crooked gantry, the move WILL scratch your pei plate. That is why I share here a macro which one round of 'slow' QGL to take the biggest gantry inconsistencies out of the equation. It also contains a conditional homing from my 'sensorless' setup. Use your own. Please please use it carefully. And share it as much as you want Part of the reason the moves are fast, is that my QGL and [printer] speed is set at 800mm/s. You need to verify first if this is going to work for your voron (Ellis' speed_test is a good place to start). [gcode_macro Carto_QGL] # safer and faster QGL for Cartographer gcode: _CG28 # conditional homing QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL horizontal_move_z=10 retries=0 retry_tolerance=1.000 QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL horizontal_move_z=3 G28 Z

This seems like a good place to comment on the new Klipper 0.13 update! https://www.klipper3d.org/Releases.html Klipper 0.13 has some neat new features... but will it crash various MCUs like the Klipper 0.11 > 0.12 did? For me, No, it does not. Victim #1 - Voron 0.2 with RPi4, BTT Pico on USB and BTT EBB36 on CAN via U2C: Went from an earlier version of Klipper 0.12 to 0.13.0.51 with no issues and remained operable with the Pico and the EBB36 still running 0.12 firmware. The Katapult-equipped EBB36 successfully flashed to 0.13 after doing a make menuconfig and reflash. The Pico reflashed by USB without issue. Victim #2 - Voron 2.4 with RPi4, BTT Octopus1.1 on USB and a Mellow SB2040 on CAN via U2C: Went from the latest version of Klipper 0.12 to 0.13.0.51 with no issues and remained operable with the SB2040 and the Octopus still running 0.12 firmware. The Katapult-equipped SB2040 successfully flashed to 0.13 after doing a make menuconfig and reflash. The Octopus reflashed by SD card without issue. So, it seems that the latest Klipper 0.13 is a relatively "safe"-ish major upgrade from 0.12. MCUs must still be manually configured and reflashed which is probably a good idea or even necessary as make menuconfig appears to have a new option enabled by default, "Optimize stepper code for 'step on both edges' "... I left this enabled , does anyone know what this is for? By the way, SHAPER_CALIBRATE does a whole new sweeping function... the toolhead now sweeps back and forth maybe 50mm while the vibration frequencies increase as before... on the V2.4 the results were slightly different with X going from MZV@57hz to [email protected] and Y going from [email protected] to [email protected]...

There's some wonderful new filaments on the block... Fiberon by Polymaker! So far, I've tried two of them... PET-CF17 and PPS-CF10 Both of these filaments are very stiff, temperature resistant and dimensionally stable. They are also considered abrasive filaments, requiring the use of hardened nozzles. Here's my findings: PET-CF17 Fiberon PET-CF17 is a good choice if you have a standard hotend with a conventional Thermistor, rated up to 300C. Prints come out well at 270C though the surface finish wasn't great for me with a 0.6mm nozzle. The filament is quite brittle and needs a gentle filament path with no sharp bends. Warping is absolutely not an issue and prints are dimensionally stable and quite strong. The strength and heat resistance can be improved with post-print annealing at the cost of added brittleness. Like most filaments, PET-CF17 will burn if ignited.... it does not self extinguish either. This is not a cheap filament, going for about twice that of common filaments. (currently about $25usd for 500grams) PPS-CF10 Fiberon PPS-CF10 is a great choice if you have a high temperature hotend with thermistor / thermocouple / what have you/ rated to at least 350c. I upgraded to Revo High Temperature PT1000 which is rated to 400C. As with the PET-CF17, the surface finish was poor at 0.6 but pretty decent at 0.4 with a tiny bit of stringing.... perhaps some settings changes might help. Again the filament is brittle and easily snapped, maybe slightly less so than PET-CF17. Again, absolutely no warping and parts are dimensionally stable and quite strong. Post-print annealing can improve strength and temperature resistance (to 250C!). Breaking a part does not seem to favor layer lines when printed at 330C . If you drop a part, it sounds metallic! And, here is why it is my new favorite: This stuff does not ignite! I cannot get it to even start burning a little with an open flame... it just melts and smokes a bit. PPS-CF10 is very strong, has great layer adhesion, great dimensional stability, very high temperature and chemical resistance and all for the low, low cost of roughly quintuple that of common filaments! (currently about $70usd for 500grams). Sign me up for more because I cannot conceive of printing ANYTHING to do with a 3D printer Hotend or any structural part inside of an enclosed printer out of anything else at all. Printed parts do seem a bit lighter than ABS parts though I have no direct comparisons handy... yet. Comparisons are upcoming as I'm currently printing out Stealthburner Printhead parts. Because I was curious, I tested PPS-CF10 for electrical conductivity, and it does not conduct even when measured with a capacitor leakage tester rated to 1.6GΩ @27v, (that's 1.6 Giga ohms!) as opposed to a standard ohmmeter's range of 50MΩ at maybe 9v, which likewise reads "infinite" resistance. Happy Printing!

The color scheme for this build is military jungle camo. I opted to source the parts for this build and also to utilize parts I have available including the parts I did not use from the V2.4 kit. I used 2020 for the frame to accommodate the 15mm THK rail and standard 1515 for the build plate mount and the X gantry. As I learned from the first build (Mods as I go), I am now just printing parts as I need them so I can make modifications as needed or desired. This V0 frame is 470mm tall without the hat and 270mm wide. TR8x8 lead screw and coupling to the motor. The weight of the Z with the HSR15 bearings really makes it heavy but at the same time makes me even more curious if it would work Hmmm... I have some new Nema 17 motors on hand (StepperOnline 45Ncm 12-24V) so I will try them first and see. My question is what board can I use that can accommodate 3A (for LDO 42STH48-2504AH just in case) but small enough to fit the V0. Thanks in advance for your inputs.

I forgot to add. The older I get the faster I was

Thank you, everyone, for the reply. It turns out the pressure advance in the filament section in Orca got unchecked. The 0.05 was what I was seeing in the Klipper Extruder IU section, which is the default from the Klipper setup. All prints are back to normal.

Retired mechanic looking to hang onto the skills learned over 30+ years. Always enjoyed the diagnostic part - - once you know *what* is wrong, fixing it becomes the easy part! 3D printing is definitely exercising those skills! I've had to learn several new ones as well, starting with CAD (using mainly FreeCAD), "programming" of sorts in learning how to flash new firmware, then dumping that as too troublesome and shifting to Klipper and an entirely different set of issues! Like it a lot better than Marlin, though! Machine started as an Ender 3, quickly started changing things: quieter board (SKR mini E3 v 3, after toasting a v2), dumping all the noisy fans in favor of Noctua silent fans (and adding a dedicated 12V power supply to run them), adding a second Z stepper, trying various configurations of direct drive and hot end setups, most of which has issues with heat creep. Last outing was a HeroME setup with dual 5015 print fans and a V6 hot end, which worked well enough but really didn't meet expectations. Had Voron envy almost from day one (I'll get there one day!), and got parts for the Voron Stealthburner print head, retaining the V6 hot end for now. Added a linear rail to the X-gantry. Added drag chains for the bed, the X/Z gantry, and eventually the X/printhead as well. Didn't print them, just bought 'em from 'zon. Did print the "anchors" for the chains, first thing I ever used CAD for. Went for the "barf" LED lighting for it (beneath the Voron logo). kept the V6 but added a PT1000 thermistor. Not running YET but I'm knocking down issues as fast as I can find them (often with input from here!) Finding good information isn't always easy, and I've found that this site is one I can count on for good, accurate, and *complete* information, which is more than I can say for many, and has become one of my top "goto" sites. I appreciate your being here, and am happy to be a member!

So I wanted a bigger 3D printer. SO I read about the Voron 2.4 build it your self printer. Looking at the well prepared Instruction manual, seems doable for me so I got the LDO 2.4 R2 RevD full kit. So far, other than a bad SLR12H linear bearing/rail everything seems pretty good so far. I have build it up to installing AB Idlers, now waiting for the replacement SLR12H. While waiting, I am printing all the parts needed for the build.

Received the serial number for this build yesterday.... This build I suppose is now officially over.. but tuning and mods will be never-ending ha ha.. On to the Next...

I've just done something silly - I've bought a Fystec Doron Velta kit. It'll be a real slow burner this one. I've always had an itch for a delta.

I have tried a few different filament storage/dry box designs for individual 1kg spools, and I believe this version covers my filament storage/dry box needs. There are many difference versions out there; this is my original interpretation. Also, it had to incorporate a fully enclosed but can be opened container that will hold about 100cc of silica gel beads. No supports required, just some CA glue for the small walls. With dry silica beads, I get about 10 to 15% humidity reading. Used the following besides the prints: Smallest possible airtight cereal container to hold a 1kg filament spool. Use only 2 608-2RS Ball Bearings per storage box. Small Digital Electronic Temperature Humidity Meter Standard size bulk Blue Indicating Silica Gel Beads. Bowden Tube coupler

I went sensorless when I upgraded my v2.4 (and I'll do the same in my Vz330). It does take a bit of tuning in but so far I've had no issues. There is one bonus to sensorless, once you've found the threshold and set it in the cfg. If it then starts stalling when homing the X or Y (mine did on the X axis) you need to check that everything is mechanically sound - my X rail needed cleaning and re-oiling (I'm no longer greasing my rails - I don't like sticky balls).

No, I am not working away. I have a cottage in the country (30 min out of town) that is where my “stuff” is. We are there most weekends from about Thu evening to Monday morning. So, between stoking the fireplace and cooking, I get to do my techi stuff then. At my house in town, there is not time nor a good place for my “machines” This weekend, our son heads back to BC to university, so my wife put a prohibition on “personal time” - LOL , IT IS FAMILY TIME. In general, we are both “Makers” so no issues, she enjoys my laser cutter and 3D printer products too! Many a useful gadget is around the house.

Came across this in my YT feed today. Looks like it could be an interesting alternative to the current AMS state of the art (Carrot, TradRack style).

The Clockwork 2 files are not located in the V2.4 repo anymore. The CW2 and Stealthburner toolhead has its own repo https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner/blob/main/STLs/Clockwork2/Direct_Drive/[a]_latch.stl

I have been debating starting a voron build for a couple years and have always found other things that occupied my time and money. A couple months ago I realized that I had a bunch of points racked up on slickdeals.net from using their platform to check for coupon codes. I always double check with their browser plugin to make sure I'm not missing any promos when buying computers for work. I never realized that I was racking up points which have added up to almost $500 while just trying to get better prices for work computers. anyway, I'm not sponsored by them to say that or anything, I was just surprised to have it out there to cash in on Amazon giftcards. I had an Octopus 1.1 sitting around from when I thought I might build an IDEX printer and never did. and I had a bunch of 2020 T slot sitting around from building a CNC machine and buying a laser engraver with a 1.5 meter square t-slot table and supports. So I had the frame and main board covered as well as a bunch of screws and other miscellaneous motors, wires, gears, and belts. I sourced most everything from Amazon or my basement pile of parts. My Amazon BOM is: BTT sb2209/rp2040 CAN on the Stealthburner CW2. Chaotic Labs Tap 2 upgraded red lizard (knockoff dragon) hotend 350mm linear rail throughout, because I had plenty of T-slot, so my Z is 50mm taller than the standard trident Mods: right hand power switch skirt trying to find a wire brush/purge bucket I like WAGO mount for fans in the skirt I found a CW2 main body where the PTFE tube goes all the way through to the extruder gears from the hotend for soft filaments, but it didn't work with the CW2 SB Main body for the CAN bus, so I'm working through that. I'm sure there are other mods and pieces that I am planning on, I just can't think of them right now. Thanks for everyone's help.

A Gallery of my 350 sized V2.4 Crystal Prison The Build started out as your run of the mill end of 2021 Formbot Kit but has gradually been upgraded with higher quality Components and mostly self-designed / redesigned MODs. A big part of the current concept was getting rid of the unsightly Panel Clips which I've done away with by attaching the 4mm Acrylic Panels directly onto the Frame ( with 3D Printed Spacers where necessary ) using Flathead Screws with the Sides overlapping the Top and the Door overlapping the Top and Sides for practically seamless Glass Cube look - Hence the Name Crystal Prison. The front 8mm Acrylic Door required additional CNCed Pockets for the flush mounted look of the three 90° Print in Place Hinges and recessed "Handle". All of the original Gantry Parts have been redesigned for a more streamlined look utilizing Ultra Low-Profile Socket Head Cap Screws. Meanwhile the SmoothBurner named Tool Head has been reconfigured to a CPAP Design without the StealthBurner faceted look I couldn't care for. The overall Dimensions and weight are slightly bigger than that of a StealthBurner but cause no issues with the geometry of the Gantry - As such there's no loss in Print Volume. The Front Cover attaches magnetically to the rest of the Tool Head via Screws being attracted to recessed Magnets with the former also acting as registration Pins preventing the Front from shifting ( the front can only be re/moved by pulling it towards the front ). The Wiring during assembly is a Pain in the Ass as neither the LEDs nor the Connectors fit through the Channels requiring Soldering within a partially assembled Front. Barely visible is the Tool Head Cutter Port situated behind the Front Cover and in-between the Extruder and Part Cooling Section. The Cutting is done by a Type 11 Blade with the Reset Function accomplished by a 1x40mm Spring Steel Wire sandwiched between the Part Cooling Halves. The in the B-Idlers installed Cutting Pin made out of a decapitated M3 Screw. The Reverse Bowden Tube exiting out of the CPAP Tube - While not yet fully realized yet it is planned to use this feature to keep temperature sensitive Filaments like PLA cool until they've reached the Tool Head while printing them together with high Temperature Materials like ASA. Also nicely visible is the red Filament Tension Lever for the Bondtech LGX Lite in its normal / centered position ( left being open, right being soft materials ). The Tool Head with the Front removed - Much of its design came from Eytecz LGX Lite Design featuring an ERCF necessary Tool Head Sensor utilizing a Washer / MicroSwitch Combo. New A / B-Drives for the LDO-42STH60-3004MAC (S40) "Kraken" Stepper Motors using 30T Pulleys - While not shown in these Pictures I've since had to add active Cooling Fans to them as otherweise they'd reach temperatures beyond their Insulation Class B rating. The new Drives also come with Shaft Support Bearings at the Top. B-Drive Side with integrated Cable Management Passthroughs routing them to the Back Extrusion Channel and to the A-Side ( covered underneath an Extrusion Channel Cover ). CNCed Minimal Clearance Z-Axis Belt and Cable Passthroughs. To the left a self-made High Temperature Silicone Nozzle Brush, in the center one of the two 8mm Bed Surface Alignment Pins, and to the right the Bed Heater Deck Panel Connector. A custom variant of the CarlosRodriguess ERCF-M but using my Large Servo MOD with the latter having enough force to break the Side Latch on the Original ERCF Design. Different View showing the Excentric CAM Wheel attached to the Servo operating a Spring-Loaded Stylus for a Springy like effect and my own Top Hat Design for the Kieraneglin Thumper Blocks. Underslung BigTreeTech MMB CAN Board providing maximum cooling and protection. CAD Model of the ERCF-M - I had initially only decided to redo the Selector portion for adding the Large Servo MOD but in the end went full retard and modelled everything. The CPAP Housing with the PTFE Tube being injected into it. The Housing houses everything and comes with the option to divert part of the Air Stream over the FANs Control Board by removing the small ( red ) Gate below the Exhaust Port. In a surprising happenstance the Housing paired with the thicker than usual Acrylic Panel seems to provide a fair bit of Noise dampening against the CPAP A short Video of it.

working perfectly

Sorry if this has already been covered elsewhere, but I wanted to share my experience with my new Stealthburner setup for my Voron 2.4 and how I wired it up. Key points to mention: I didn't want to add new wiring into the cable chain (lots of work and I didn't even have the wires to use anyway) I tested the LEDs ahead of time with a WLED ESP32 controller to ensure my wiring and installation of the head part works (link to that topic) I have unused ports on the PCBs that I wanted to use to avoid new wiring. Here's what I discovered going through this process: The docs recommend powering the LEDs from a 5V source, not the Octopus board Online folks talk about using the PB6 (BLTouch) pin vs. the PB0 RGB LED pin (center pin of the 3 pins) The PCBs use a common ground, which makes sense The Meanwell power supplies I used do not consider the case "V-", meaning you can't measure ground by connecting to the external metal case Most importantly, the 2 pin connectors for the X endstop and chamber thermister have one of the pins grounded (so you can't use both pins) So to accomplish this, I used the X endstop and chamber thermister connectors, but only one pin from each (since the other is ground). The ports were free for me because my X-endstop is on the gantry itself, and the chamber thermister is mounted elsewhere and connected to the octopus on it's own (without the toolhead PCBs). I just made an adapter cable with the RGB connector on one end, which splits into two different mini JST connectors. Note which pin I used for each. You can also just check continuity from ground to the pins to see which ones are grounded. I was able to use PB0 myself. So here is the final wiring under the printer: One pin from the breakout board connector goes to 5V on the small power supply for the raspberry Pi Another pin from the breakout board connects to PB0 on the Octopus board (RGB connector). Ground is already connected so there's nothing to do there. Hope this helps someone out there!

I love my CPAP setup. It allows me to sleep at night and reduces my wife's anxiety. Oh wait, you meant on printers...

A SIM card removal tool makes a great de-pinner for connectors.

Let the printing begin: Trident 300 Voron 2.4 350mm Voron 2.4 300mm

I did it! I girded my loins, plugged her in and hit the switch - no magic smoke was released. That CPAP fan is kin loud!! No the fun begins - config.

It's not just printers and printing in my flat. Scones - Classic and Käse.

This is literally all you need... Just find a place inside your "chamber" and run it to your controller. Then set up your printer.cfg with [temperature_sensor chamber] sensor_type: Generic 3950 sensor_pin: <your pin> min_temp: 0 max_temp: 100 gcode_id: C Disclaimer: This code is a sample and is untested. I got it from the Voron Docs

After a bit of farting around I got my Leviathan running on "The Rig". Turns out I was looking for the MCU in the wrong place after flashing. I also rigged up some manual limit switches using a bread board with 3 momentary switches. So, here it is running. Rig Motors moving.mp4

I did install the Cartographer and it worked very well. But then, i was thinking it is annoying to have different profile for different plates. (Z-offset) So i ordered a ChaoticLab TAP mount and designed a mount to mount the cartographer on the lower back of the TAP mount. Now i do the Z probing with the TAP and the QGL and mesh probing with the Cartographer. I'm very happy with this, as i no more need to take care about Z-offset adjustment.

More progress on the Refurb... Today I finished up the toolhead and umbilical upgrade. Below are the results. Sadly I couldn't fit the umbilical bundle thru the ID of the gland that came with the CNC gantry parts. I decided to experiment around and just fed the bundle thru the threaded gland hole. It's protected with a braided sheath (techflex) so I'm not really worried about chaffing. A couple grey zip ties work to keep things in place without binding. And the final result. It's starting to look like a printer again. Next up is electronics.

First build diary, hope nothing goes kaboom or leak magic smoke current progress: completed carriages and base. Carriages still binding a bit after fiddling but acceptable. Currently printing out more parts on my modded Ender 3. This is a side project as I am also on and off building my Ender 3 NG and sidewinder X2. This means the MIN will become my fourth printer! Well if we count the ones out of operation that is.

We are, why do you think we have so many TOYS?

THE END RESULT Visually a very clear improvement. Functionally too! Now my 2.4 is ready for the other Monolith Mod

I wasn't in the mood today, but I thought I'll send a big print off and tinker while monitoring the start (I spend a lot of time doing this just in case - it's mostly unnecessary). The next thing I know it's 17:30, I've not eaten since 07:00 and my cats are pissed off because they've had no lunch!

Yikes! - not typical... That's the problem with buying pre-printed parts from random suppliers on line. Condolences. Just don't know what you are getting from on line suppliers (not criticizing or trying to make you feel bad). Get a friend to print you some parts. I've printed 5 complete sets now for buddies. Think it but don't over think it. Each filament manufacture seems to choose different temperature/deflection tests, so it is hard to do an apples to apples comparison between brands. Looking at data sheets for a given manufacturer, I don't see much difference between ASA and ABS, at least for the companies I have looked at. ASA buys UV resistance. Stay away from low warpage ABS+ blends because of their lower temperature deflection numbers. Yup you can print some parts in PETg-GL, but why? I've run my chamber to 70C with no issues. Before going to glass filled, step back as ask yourself where are you trying to add stiffness? What problem are you trying to solve? 2020 extrusions themselves are not overly rigid so its kind of silly to beef up the printed parts without the frame and carriage extrusions. The Voron design is well balanced. There are a few places like in TAP that might warrant some enhancement, but TAP works. It's always easy enough to come back later and beef up some parts where there are problems.

At 2,500.00 US for the Voron Mill, you can build a pretty nice enclosure for the Milo. There is one in Beta right now. Casa Enclosure

First, welcome to the forum! There is no official 510mm version of any Voron. The 2.4 (and Trident) have 250, 300, and 350 versions released. However, all the CAD is available on the Github so you can modify what is needed to build your own custom sized printer. Off the top of my head, I think the only printed parts that would need modification are the skirts. Otherwise, it's just adjusting the extrusion lengths, wire lengths, and drag chain lengths (correct me if I'm wrong everyone). If you use the Voron Configurator you can specify a custom size and it will calculate at least the extrusion sizes for you.