Leaderboard

Remember: these are glorified, computer-controlled hot glue guns. Off by a hundredth of a millimeter is fine. The gooey plastic will compensate.

The other week I managed to get to the Technical Museum in Peenemunde to take a look at the V1 and V2s. Here's a link to a google photos folder with some more interesting items - https://photos.app.goo.gl/W1YHz6L7rruZuHEE7

First chips on the Milo!!! First Chips.mp4

The supplies already share a common earth ground. What needs to be specifically shared between the two PSU's is a single wire between the NEUTRAL leads on each unit. I had to add that in order for the PSU to output 48v to the 5160 modules.

That's the one that caught me on my VZ330 AWD build.

Monitor the fan noise ,if its gettng louder then replace ,your asking how long is a piece of string ? good fans will last ,cheap fans will not .

Wired in the coolant relays today, I need to complete the air plumbing and wire the solenoids. Wired the pendant e-stop in series with the Casa e-stop, I couldn't get the software e-stop to work with the pendant. I printed some wall-mount ER20 collets. It's nice that the Casa has a collet drawer, but in reality, when doing tool changes and opening and closing that drawer isn't very convenient. In my opinion, having a pendant is a must-have mod; moving the axis to line up the touch probe is significantly easier than using the RRF GUI.

My VZBot 330 runs on an Octopus Pro board with 48V 5160 drivers. As a matter of fact all my printers are running Octopus boards. Have not had a problem on any. With the 5160 drivers it is important to note the wiring to the drivers as this is cause for the most issues I had. You will also need to connect the two power supplies via GND in order for the 5160 to operate. I am currently in the process of converting a Ender Plus to an AWD Mercury One with a 5 toolhead Lineux Toolchanger and this will run on an Octopus board with 48V 5160 drivers.

I put a GDSTIME fan in my Stealthburner about 3 years & 3500 hours ago. Still running strong.

Hi Kris. Just wanted to say thanks. Great service and customer accommodation. Definitely fast shipping. V2.4 kit LDO Milo 1.5 CNC + Casa

It's so good, im one for my Vz330.

Thanks! Yes, I'm pretty pleased with the first cuts. Still need to learn more about the Cam setup. Learning by trial and error. Looking at ordering more end mills and still setting up "Air Blast" and MQL coolant.

Oh yes! I forgot to mention that one it would be my first upgrade mod on a new printer.

My V0 is almost complete. Next.. Milo 1.5 +Casa

Fridge door conversion was my best mod. Finally, a door that seals and keeps the fumes inside so the filter can take care of it. I print mostly ASA, so that is important. Second is converting my TAP to Dyze Horizon strain gage nozzle sensor. Way better than tap and 100% reliable and repeatable. I am currently working on an Orbiter3 conversion to enable reliable printing of TPU.

Trying something a little different with the trays:

Well the Box Turtle build has started. Colours for my 2.4 but it will start life on the test mule (Trident). Probably not worth a separate build log as there are a couple of good ones on here already. Build is 1/2 LDO and 1/2 Ali with a mix of ABS/ABS+ M600 filament change is great but is also a curse as it requires some babysitting - hopefully this solves the issue

Replacing TAP with E3D RevoPZ made the largest print quality difference so far. Replacing the BTT SB2209 with a Mellow SB2040 stopped an appetite for Hotend Thermistors.

I second the Beacon probe, for sure, as a reliable first layer. I run sensorless homing on both my printers it works flawlessly when properly set up.

Switching over to Beacon was a game changer for me. I also changed the extruder / hotend over to a Orbiter 2 and Rapido 2 UHF.

Update: 200 hours in and the Stealthburner certainly isn't a PLA queen but have managed to get through most of the PLA prints with reasonable results. All of the 3dsets Land Rover Wagon were printed and, i would say, 95% were very good. The other 5% are challenging and I am wondering if it is an issue with the toolhead or simply my tuning. I still have not finished it but life has been busy! I will get there .... Build now has a ACM back and lower panel but I have left the acrylic deck on there for now. Brace Brace Brace!! I added a couple of VZBot braces on the sides and used four of the trident Z axis stepper mounts in the top to keep the top square and braced the same as the bottom. I was thinking of popping 4 round LED's in the holes. They worked out very nicely! Running KlickyPCB for endstop and it has not had a fault in the 200 hours of printing so far - so much more reliable with first layers then my 2.4 using the z switch and klickyPCB separately. I have set up adaptive mesh and exclude object (so so easy! why didn't I do this earlier???) - this is native on Klipper now. Still have to clean up under deck but that is tabled for when I get a new toolhead and pass the StealthBurner back to the other machine. So what is next? Toolhead definitely. I am tossing between XOL or A4T-AFC with Galileo wristwatch or spunking up for a LDO Jabberwocky Toolhead & Extruder. This is, after all, going to be the test bed for a Box Turtle and possibly one other MMU/AFC - I want to build one for the 2.4 (simple two or 3 colour for ABS) and one for this .... or if I get one very cheap I could have a go at an ERCF V2. To be continued ......

Hi, Your post was from a while ago, so I hope the moderators don’t mind me reviving it and read the reasoning for allowing this further ahead. But first, a little background: I was skimming through a video that’s over two years old when I noticed a strange .cfg file. A quick Google search—bada bing, bada boom—and here I am. I have no idea what was available a year ago, but it looks like the conversation back then was centered on the XY-axis. The consensus was (and still is) to just get the backers and forget about it, which honestly sounds fair and true even today. For 2025, as of my reply, the discussion seems to be focused on the Z-axis specifically. With a little digging, I found posts, commits, and development around this exact topic as recently as last month. This means the topic is fresh and ongoing. The question is about the Z-axis, specifically where to place the thermistor. I have exactly the same question. Based on the goal (measure vertical extrusion temperatures) and checking the [Z_Thermal_Adjust], it looks like we will need to place a single thermistor directly in contact with a vertical extrusion. I've seen people use NTK 50K, but I'm familiar with 104NT-4-R025H42G so I'm going with that. Placement requirements: 1. Direct contact with a vertical extrusion [Z_Thermal_Adjust] 2. Does not interfere with the flying gantry / motion system 3. Does not interfere with common mods like z-axis covers or LED strips. Placement options: Personally, I think I'm going for this setup: Why? Well... I'm a sucker for symmetry. I already have the LED splitter on the right side, so I might as well design something for the left. You can see I'm already planning to add another thermistor, this one will measure chamber temperatures. I'll then average that reading with the thermistor on the SB to get a more accurate chamber temperature reading. I did order it from China, so it will be a while before it arrives. Dimensions are still unknown.

I initially had the very first released external 5160 Pro drivers but as I found them to bulky, I switched to the 5160T Pro drivers.

Milo V1.5 CNC Bench Mill Github Link Not a 3D printer but still going to be an interesting build The idea is to eventually make parts to replace the printed parts on the mill and for the Trident and V2. This is going to be a slow build, I'm self-sourcing the parts and will assemble them as parts are purchased and arrive. Years ago I purchased some parts to build a CNC machine but never completed the build. The frame and spindle were the last items to be purchased and built. Since then electronics for CNC have come a long way specifically the stepper drivers and motherboards. I already have the Nema 23 stepper motor but are larger than the suggested spec for the build. I'll be testing them with the Mellow 32bit FLY-CDY V3 Wifi Control Board when it arrives. These are the steppers I'll be testing: I have these Hiwin HGR 15 linear rails which I can cut to length, the blocks don't match the printed parts, but I can either modify the printed parts or order new blocks. The blocks alone will cost the same as purchasing a complete set of rails. The advantage of using Hiwin rails is the pre-load. Appreciate the lesson on the basic use of Fusion 360 that @Penatr8tor was kind enough to give me on Zoom. Parts ordered: Mellow Fly-CDY-V3 Complete Fastener Kit 2 x 4010 24V. Fans

The only fans I have had die were cheap ones. The old Creality Ender fans I think a few died on me, and one was a Winsinn 4010 ball bearing fan from Amazon that lasted about 18mnths. There was no blob of death though. In my experience if there isn't enough cooling the hotend will just clog. Isn't a blob of death usually caused by hotend leakage or maybe by a part detatching from the build plate and sticking to the hotend? I bought some Sunon 4010 fans 4 years ago and all still work. I still have a bunch spare because none have stopped working.

Same with both of my 2.4r2 Voron; 350 and 300 mm. The drop after power-off is almost invisible, but it definitely needs a QGL the next power-up. As mentioned before, the Startup script always runs a QGL and a Z calibration (not offset) before each print as the cabinet and the bed have warmed-up.

Hi all, I've been running my Voron 2.4 for a few months now and overall, it's been fantastic. Solid performance, reliable prints, and the build process was actually fun. That said, I'm starting to look into mods and upgrades — not just for aesthetics, but for actual performance or maintenance improvements. I’m curious: What single mod or upgrade made the biggest impact on your Voron build? Was it the Klicky probe? Stealthburner? CANbus? A specific fan duct or printed part? Or maybe something more subtle like cable management or firmware tweaks? Whether it’s worth recommending to someone still relatively new to Voron Would love to hear your experiences and maybe get inspired for my next upgrade path! Thanks in advance!

Printed parts are found here. Measure the side-to-side and top-to-bottom extrusion and cut accordingly, or there are Clicky Clank door kits out there.

Carbon fiber gantry, sensor-less homing, cartographer touch and 520mm build height and a glass bead. The biggest, best mod was the orbiter V3 revo as the prints are perfect and I can print nearly every filament form PLA to PC and even nylon. That and I can change nozzles with one hand. I am so glad I found the Voron and the communities that support it. Can set up with the help of Esoterica's write up was bullet proof. The baud rate of the early EB36 was a problem, so I went with Duet. The Duet CAN worked but their scanning Z probe is surface mount and problematic. I went back to a Manta M8P as the EBB was now 1M baud rate. The Manta has an integrated CM4 with EMMC memory running Kipper and mainsail with a cartographer 3d probe. The Mellow Fly SHT36 would drop the UUID for Fly sht36 plus when the can was plugged into the fly or spliced at the motherboard. The EBB36 works as well as Duet but and the cartographer scanning probe is a better design. That and they both (EBB, Carto) have input shaping which also helps print quality.

Yep fully normal. My Z axis sags enough that it needs to be recalibrated on every print. Yet another reason why, IMO, the Trident is a better design than the 2.4.

Congrats Jack! Awesome to see chips fly and it looks and sounds really solid.

Thanks, yeah, can't imagine what it would look like without a Casa enclosure. Water cooling is not necessary. The idea when I purchased it was to be able to run it at a lower RPM, but I didn't know that this mill needs to be run at 12k and above.

CNC-Tap V2, CAN-Bus, Custom Toolhead/CPAP system for more cooling and lighter system (beta version is almost done!).

Mine always does 2 "laps" when I QGL it. But, mine does not sag when I turn it off (which I hardly ever do). It shouldn't sag on power-off, the belt gearing is suppose to prevent sag. Check the Z belt tension.

The gantry leveling procedure will run every time you start a new print job. At least, it should. Make sure the gantry leveling procedure is called out in your startup file. Yes, the gantry can sag and go out of level when the stepper motors no longer lock it in place when the machine is turned off.

Yeah, you bet it's been over a year, self-sourcing slowed progress, and the last bit was finding bellows for the Y axis. With this first process found some things that need to be tweaked. Need to move the toolsetter to the opposite side where I first had it to prevent the touch probe from getting tangled in it during probing.

Tap and Galileo2 for me. I went from stock inductive probe to Klicky which was an improvement. But Klicky was always fiddly. Tap was a little bit of a challenge initially (I also started with the beta, so extra challenges). But once set up, it's been great. Galileo2 is a simple build and has been dead reliable since I switched. Clockwork isn't bad, but Galileo is easier to run. I even switched my V0.2 over to the stand-alone version.

Woohoo! It's been a long road to get to that little video.

Unfortunately access was no longer possible. It probably only open during the high season. I really wanted to have a look around a Russian, I did get chance to look around an English diesel/electric hunter killer sub many years ago.

I forgot about sensorless! It takes a bit of fettling to get it working correctly. But once its set up it works, and if it starts homing before hitting end stop - it's time to inspect the rails and moving parts. Don't try it on a 330 AWD, it doesn't play well with mote than one motor on the same axis.

A quick update. All is well and the Vz is running smoothly, and with a 0.8mm nozzle it fair lays down some plastic. I just have to develop a better mount for the SHT36 and install the RSCS. I tried printing a Temp Tower in PLA, the 0.8mm nozzle puts out some much filament that the CPAP cannot cool it quick enough. I get back on it when I return from Italy in 2 weeks.

I think i managed to solve this issue. Filament sensor is detected and no errors reported by Klipper. Now its testing time..

If you look around, there are mods out there that let you add a GPIO-triggered safe shutdown. People put something like one of those momentary push-button switches on their front panel (say for a Voron mod), using, oh, "uxcell Momentary Metal Push Button Switch 12mm 3-6v led" on Amazon. The LED ones can double as a power indicator, but there are also simpler no-LED ones. The basic idea is that you push the button and it causes the rpi to start shutting things down safely. Presumably you could have the script do "everything", such as cancelling the current print and letting the tool head cool down first. If your system has separate power for the printer and rpi, it might make more sense to put them off a smart plug of some sort which the rpi can trigger on the way down.

Yeah that pretty much confirms my own feelings on it, Nikos. Actually, though, when I turn off my TV... it's not really OFF, as in unplugged from wall off. It's in a standby state, so it's still energized. Got a few other devices around here that are the same way; it amounts to a continual 'parasitic draw' on the house current. Negligible in terms of absolute amount, but with these things, off isn't really OFF. With something like a printer, I'd prefer it be OFF when I'm done, as it's a potential fire hazard - - I wouldn't leave my countertop toaster-oven on unattended either. It just *feels* safer, even if it does introduce more 'wear and tear' on the electronic components. They're cheap enough. Yah, *anything* that makes heat draws a ferocious amount of current. I haven't gone with UPSs, as if you want to run electronics you really need a true sine-wave UPS, not chopped DC, and true sine are a lot spendier than their 'chopper' cousins! Power around here's pretty reliable, Winter and big storms with high winds being what usually takes it out.

Okay. So I cleared those warnings, and homed, they did not come up again.

Okay that fixed it.. My bad..

I purchased two of these machinist jacks, used to support overhangs of 1 inch or greater to prevent chattering. The second one to arrive tomorrow. Adjusts from 23mm to 30mm. These work nicely with the Saunders Metal Works hobby vice. Machinist Jack Link

I’ve installed all stuff I posted before and btt hdmi5 screen and sfs 2.0 and… it’s printing!)

I cut a carbon fiber y carriage today, its 114g :), about 132 grams lighter than my old cut down ender axis. I also released I had some little paper washers under the bed spacers, took the two out from the front and the range has reduced from about 1.1mm to 0.3 :).... Happy with that.

My interest was peaked by the OPENAMS development posted here a while ago. And I decided - why not. My excuse was that it would give me a good comparison between the openams and the box Turtle which I have become to love. Had to have a machine to put it on. Seeing I did not use the ERCF mounted on this machine, the decision was made. ERCF to the TUBS you go. Replacing the mainboard in the Bambulabs AMS was a breeze following the Bambu labs Wiki. A warning to those wanting to attempt this conversion - The openAMS documentation is sparse to say the least. A lot is assumed in the documentation and there are some errors in the sample configuration files. BUT - the developer of the project on discord is SUPER helpful and responsive. The FPS board replacement had no instructions, but was not difficult to figure out. Basically you need to reprint a new housing, use the sensor portion that accepts the Bowden tube, the new spring that is supplied and away you go. Flashing the boards was a bit of a hassle as the latest edition of katapult caused some boards not to display their UUID after flashing. @KnightRadiant on discord was quick to the rescue with a workaround. However the FPS did not show up once connected via the can interface. Turned out the 1A mini fuse on the board was blown. Bypassed the fuse by soldering the two poles and soldered a 1A fuse into the power input. Both boards flashed without a problem. Preparation of the Voron 2.4r2 350 (Stormtrooper themed Voron) Removed the ERCF and Hapy Hare Software Installed OpenAMS and the config files Refurbished the blade in the Filametrix Filament Cutter. This machine still has a CW2 extruder but I plan to upgrade to a galileo2 in due time. (Just did not have a kit handy). Also moved the cutter to the rear right, close to the Blobifier. Installed the Blobifier - another mod, I am really impressed with. Removed the silicone brush and installed the bambulabs silicone pad Installed the horizontal Z-Chain. Had a look at a Z-Umbilical but the chain install was easier. Installed the FPS at the back of the printer Placed the OAMS (Open AMS) onto of the printer: Going to run a couple of extrusions across and mount the OAMS to those. Installed a Mellow Fly Canbus Extender in the electronics compartment Fired up the machine and loaded the spools. On to the initial test. Will do that tomorrow. Decided to finish one project at a time, thus the LDO Box Turtle is gathering dust for the moment. Also currently printing the parts for the AMS Hydra Pro - Don't know if I will proceed with this mod or not. Time will tell. Here she is: And for size comparison the OAMS and Boxturtle side by side: