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For those interested - a KlipperScreen add on for the Box Turtle running AFC software. Github repository:

This could be a handy mod, the configuration is done in KlipperScreen.conf. moonraker_host: 127.0.0.1 is the printer that the screen is installed on. The IP address of the printer you want to add is listed below. When the printer boots, it shows you which printer you want to access. If you want to return to the printer select screen, use the double arrow.

Welcome to the forum! You found the right (wrong?) hobby! 3D printing is not just a rabbit hole in itself, but a rabbit-hole-generating endeavor.

Finally finished the CPAP air supply system and the noise levels, no numbers, just comparing with my other standard Voron Stealthburner, are satisfactory; see below. I need to set up the umbilical "holders" and music wire before starting calibrations and tests. The motor dome may look massive, but it is only 90 mm thick and 165 mm diameter at the widest point. The hatched area it becomes 5% Gyroid Infill that I will assume has excellent acoustic suppression properties. I used TPE 85A to create all the gaskets, and they made a big difference on noise redaction due to air leaks without them. Btw, the air intake muffler is a modified VzBot v2 muffler but using two "tune" pipes in a single housing and added gaskets. The original design was "whistling" from the air leaks! This thing puts out so much more air that I cannot see using more than 40%; we will see soon

A bit of progress, extrusion cut, drilled and assembled.

Mocked up the elect-bay love this grid system! Octopus Pro, Mellow 6150 PRO, 2 x 24v 50-watt PS (from Artillery X1), 1 x 36v 350-watt PS, BTT PI 4 Adapter/CB1

Jake England, the creator of the Milo Mill, just posted a video of the ATC for the Milo.

I found these two links for wiring and component mounting of the electronic bay. With this system, I can leave the bottom panel off! Grid System Wire Chase and Component Mounts

That's handy! If one of my displays ever dies, this would be a great option. Both my V2.4s are right next to each other.

Nothing new at this end... Neither of my Vorons have eaten any Thermistors at all since my static abatement efforts have been put in place. They might have been redundant while using the Mellow SB2040 for reasons detailed above. A recent change might have somewhat negated my efforts... I recently replaced Voron TAP with an E3D Revo PZ Probe Coldside/Heatsink which does not have a consistent electrical conductivity from the mounting bolts through to the Hotside/Nozzle/Thermistor. However, the initial filament entrance to the Coldside does have good contact and there is some measurable continuity through to the Nozzle, which should be enough for static abatement. I will probably just Earth the Heater Block at some point. A proper test would be to re-install the BTT EBB SB2209 and run several long prints of at least 4-5 hour duration... but I'm not about to do all of that just for curiosity's sake. In theory, what you describe is what I suspect was happening to my system.... a non-conductive material moving through a non conductive tube can build up considerable static charges, especially if moving at higher speeds. My solution is essentially the same as yours. Notably, Duet3D appears to consider this issue to some degree both in online documentation and the design of their Toolhead board 1LC... whereas BigTreeTech and the Voron community as a whole do not appear to as far as I can tell. The design of the Mellow SB2040 as well as the older 8-bit RAMBO boards do appear to take this into account albeit without any mention.

Hello. Just updated Octopus 429 mcu using sd card . Everything works just fine. Left option optimize stepper code for step on both edges enabled. This time updating Klipper and mcu went smoothly

Clark Kent dropped by today and dropped off some Super Power's ! ... or was that Royal Mail?? LDO-42STH48-2804AC Super Power Stepper Motor. Only running them with TMC2209's @ 24V 1 amp but so far they are much much quieter!

Hi, I'm a retired engineer and a tinker, and I'm always curious about how everything works. I usually find myself struggling not to go down any rabbit holes. I got involved with 3D printing a few years ago, working for a company making equipment for mega yachts. Before that, I was doing mechanical design for an electronics test equipment manufacturer after spending 5 years at Abbott Labs as a manufacturing engineer. That was after I spent a few years in the Army repairing radar systems. Then did a few years as an electronics tech at Texas Instruments. So I've gotten to see a lot of interesting things along the way. Sorry for the backward history review. 3D printing, I believe, is just beginning its journey to becoming a true fabricator of the future, where it will be involved in everything while being run by an AI. I have been playing around with an Ender 5, which I have modified some. Built an enclosure for it so that I can run the chamber temperatures around 75 °C. My current project is a much-modified Rook with a 300x300x250 build space. I am currently installing a cartographer in it and then changing the belt driven 3-axis build plate to a Trident-style drive system for the build plate. I use Solidworks for all my designing. I'll leave it at that so I don't bore everyone too much. If you're like me, there are never enough hours in the day for everything that I want to do. I look forward to learning and interacting with everyone and sharing any knowledge that's useful that I have. Until next time, Scott, aka Trynagn

Welcome - glad to have you join

Welcome to the forum!

Welcome to the forum!

Or maybe just mount it on the end of the bed like the Milo one. There should be enough Y to reach all of the tools and not many people fixturing parts at the end of the table.

@PFarm $300 isn't that bad really and they have the screwing and unscrewing running like a swiss watch. Might be tough to find a place for it. We need the screwing mechanism of the Rapidchange with the carousel of the Milo changer.

I have a feeling all will be revealed on a Steve Builds or some other builders livestream in the near future. Just a hunch. So, after re-reviewing the end of the video where he zooms in... It looks like he's using spindle rotation and Z axis to change the tool and the carousel of tools are indexed by the stepper underneath. Looks like the sequence of events is something like, Remove Tool... 1. Move changer under head 2. Lower head into socket 3. Low RPM spin up in reverse 4. Push head down a couple times briefly so that the cogs mesh and it breaks the collet loose and spins off the collar. New Tool... 1. Rotate carousel to desired tool. 2. Low RPM spin up in forward. 3. Push head down to screw new tool onto spindle and then push down a couple times to engage cogs and tighten the collar. I think the crunchy sound is from some kind of ratchet style torque limiter. So, Yeah... Interesting design.

If you look closely inside, it looks like two halves spring-loaded with cogs.

Looks cool, sounds kinda crunchy torquing down the collets. Interested in how he's spinning them on and off. It's definitely worth a look through but I'm always a bit cautious of 1st versions of stuff.

@mvdveer Inspired, multiple projects at one time, so why not start another one I had four Artillery X1s that I no longer used. No matter how modded they were, they never printed quality parts like the Trident and V2. I dismantled them and salvaged usable parts. It will be a little oddball since I'll use most of the X1 extrusion, so I may need to alter some parts to fit. Extrusion consists of 2040 and 2060, I use the stepper motors and leadscrews, and I have a spare BTT Octopus with 2209 mounted in one of the X1 and the power supply, so I'm using that as well. I have a BTT U2C for Canbus and a Klipper Expander for caselighting. I'll use TAP that I removed from V2 for initial setup, then convert over to Beacon. Started printing parts, Spartan Obsibian Black Sparkle and Esun Peak Green

That's good to hear, I think the other two printers will get changed out eventually.

I have been using this on the printers for ants (Voron 0, Trizero, Boxzero and Micron - great system

Hmm... That could be handy for my "headless" V0.2

Finally got back to this printer after a long absense. I got the preheater bed installed and it works. It doesn't put out as much heat as I'd wanted, though it does improve how long it takes this printer to get up to temp. But only by perhaps 20%. I think it will be more useful for adjusting chamber temp when running hot, and keeping less of a vertical temperature gradient in that situation. I have added the final layer of insulation into the top but only there. I wanted to see how much difference it made. The top used to get very hot but it is noticably cooler now. Less heat loss. I need to add insulation further down now. Tonight's testing I had the chamber temperature up to slightly over 85C then turned up the print head. I walked away for a bit and came back to find it had crashed. I had the bed near the max I'd set; ditto the print head. I suspect one tripped the shutdown. I bumped the temps a few degrees after this test. I had the printer hot for a couple hours, gradually ramping up the temp once above 80C since that's the highest I'd run it previously. Motion seems fine at the elevated temps. Next step is to add a little more insulation. I expect to get 90C chamber at least. It's about time for me to get some filament to test this range with. I'm not quite up to where I want to be to print CF-PEKK which I have, and above where I want to print anything else that I have on hand! Gerald PS - The modified Bento Box I posted about previously works extremely well as an internal filter. It will circulate the air and move it through the filter and filter media just fine. It is loud though. It has had a whole lot of use.

Yeah, my V2 and Trident are beside each other but I'm be I'm building a second Trident which only has the mini display so this will be handy for that printer.

Has anything more come of this issue? I'm new to the Voron and this board in particular (my first post) - but have been modifying my old DBot for many years. I am in the final stages of completing my V2.4 r2 and came across this issue being mentioned elsewhere and through a Google search ended here. I don't pretend to know anything about electrical circuit board design but reading this thread reminded me of dust collection ducting for woodworking. Some woodworkers have used both metal and plastic PVC pipes to run their dust collection systems in their shops. In the plastic PVC dust collection systems the static electricity of the wood chips and dust rubbing along the PVC pipe towards the dust collector creates huge charges of static electricity. The remedy is to run a bare ground wire either inside or more often wrapped around the outside length of the PCV pipe and grounding it to the dust collector thus discharging the static before it can build and become a danger to the woodworker. I had an idea as I read this thread and thought about dust collection and wondered - what if we were to wrap a bare copper or aluminum wire around the PTFE tube going towards the toolhead and grounded it to the frame and earth ground. Would this be enough to discharge the static BEFORE it builds up enough charge to cause the damaged thermistors or board resets?

Has anyone ventured into the realm of the A4T toolhead - specifically the beta release of the A4T-AFC? GitHub - SouthAsh1/A4T-AFC

Then you're doing it right. That's what this forum is here for. I jumped into my Voron project with virtually no electronics or electrical experience. I dabbled in RC cars way back when (did just enough to plug components together and make a couple of nasty but functional solder joins to the motor) and did some electrical assembly in a previous job. The Discord channel and this forum were huge helps.

Hi. Advice needed. It looks like its time to update Octopus pro 1.01 F429 mcu. I run the make command and noticed that there is a new option enabled on the klipper firmware config list. The option optimize stepper code for step on both edges is enabled by default. Last time when i updated the mcu this option was not enabled. So do i leave it enabled and comply firmware or do i disable it? Voron 2.4R2 running with LDO hi temp stepper motors kit. Klipper version latest.

Update! All printed parts for the head (minus the ECAS of course!): On the printer: ...and from underneath: Need to wire the CAN cable to the U2C, CPAP motor and 1st run soon.

Thanks for posting this! I was unaware this was possible. Just ordered a Pendant for my setup.

It's involved but hasn't made chips yet LOL, but we're getting closer!

Here it is printer.cfg