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BTT Octobus max 1.0_EBB2209 USB


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I've already tried all that, and now I've also glued all three heatsinks to the board. The only downside is that the fan should stay on because the heatsink for the TMC2209 stays warm longer. I'm going to mount everything on the X-axis and do a test print. Since I had to mount so much, I'll recalibrate everything first and then print... then we'll see. Thanks for your help...

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Hello, another update on my problem: I completely redesigned the base of the Stealthburner to prevent misalignment and inaccurate assembly. I joined the rear motor and extruder plates as a single unit, ensuring the front panel is mounted straight. I also changed the fan's airflow direction from the outside to the inside. Now I have values for a 500mm extruder NTC at 52°C and the motor at approximately 55°C, with a run_current of 0.65. If it stays like this, I should be satisfied.

 

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Originally mine was like your issue. Was stupid on my part and didn't realise it wasn't speaking to the stepper in the TMC section ( typo on my part which it never gave an error for ) but because I had steppers on the mainboard it carried on. But the sb2209 was using it's default Vref from the small pot on the PCB. As such not hard for it to reach over 90c on the extruder causing filament melting in the extruder and eventually warping even the extruder as was printed. I eventually reprinted the extruder with pa12CF , this resolved that, and even now with PET1-CF holds up if I screw up on that. 

But once I realised the issue , and resolved it 0.65 run current easily. Small 3010 fan on the cover only blowing inwards cools the PCB/ stepper driver and throws a small amount across the motor. Using a 4010 like that with that much printed material is going to affect things at higher speeds BUT if you aren't pushing for speed and focusing on quality then it'll do 😁👍

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Live and learn is all we can do. I am glad you found the error or the infamous Klipper. I bet that was a stress relieving moment. I didn't like the colors of the original jabberwocky and the ABS became a little too soft on occasion and I am printing all the parts In PC. The Voron is black and blue do to the bat I have taken to it on occasion. I have finally found a start up ritual for this that produces the best parts. The graphite bed and high temp PIE and PET sheet helped immensely. The parts are 45 percent finished with no warping.

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I think it is on wiki but there is a hierarchy for Klipper that should be followed so errors are at a minimum. I miss duet as it is all g-code. Klipper is more of a GPU and they keep on adding things which can change the ways it looks at g-code. Don't get me wrong, Klipper is very powerful, you just have pay attention to the hierarchy for the fewest issues.

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If you print PC or ASA or nylon, the mount should be of higher temp material. The jabberwocky heat break blows through the heat break to the mount on the linear rail. The mount on the linear rail was PETG and it is fused together. I had heat creep once and it softened the conch mount to the point I had to replace it. That is why the whole thing is going to be PC and if I ever have an issue with it, conch mount will got to PEEK or aluminum.

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Hi everyone, I checked everything again, including the printer.cfg file, and that's where the problem was. I had an entry for the TMC 2209, albeit with a different PIN, but Klipper was still using that value. No matter what I set in the EBB, the value was never accepted. And in the printer.cfg file, I had a `run_current: 0.8` setting. Now I've set a value of 0.65 via the EBB, and the NTC temperature hasn't increased. I'm so glad I found the problem!

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23 hours ago, McCosch said:

I'm so glad I found the problem!

Congrats that you found it out! 👍

Klipper is very complex and such issues happen very fast during changes and are difficult to find. Although no error message appears, the results are still not as expected. All the better that you figured it out yourself. I will mark this thread as important for me too!

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I'm so happy to here you found the issue and are printing successfully again. If I helped in anyway it makes my day. So many have shown me the errors of my way, it helps to know I'm paying it forward. 

Until I found the wiki page on klipper, I would have gone back to Duet. I even got a start back with the reprap configuator. It hasn't been updated in years.

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