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Hello from Australia


Edu
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Hi everyone

I've finished my first Voron build about 2 weeks ago and am blown away by the quality of just about everything. I built a 2.4 350 using a Blurolls kit and printed parts from Blurolls. I had a few little challenges with the kit but most of it was very good and my printer is running nicely. Already looking at some minor mods but hoping to not go into the same rabbit hole that I fell into with my previous printer.

I got into 3D printing bit more than 2 years ago when I bought a Sidewinder X1 and I've learned a LOT since then. I spent enough on mods for the Sidewinder (added new motherboard, magnetic bed, linear rails, filament width sensor, swapped whole extruder 3 times, etc, etc) to probably buy at least one Voron. So I'm hoping that now I'll spend more time using the printer than I'm spending on trying to get it to print well. And so far I'm real happy as my 2.4 is already printing faster and cleaner than the Sidewinder ever did.

As far as background goes: I studied mechanical engineering but went straight into CAM/CAM software sales and training after university but ended up in software development. And as a hobby I mess around with Raspberry Pi's and micro controllers and have a few small projects that I'm trying to develop which is where the 3D printing comes in handy.

Unfortunately, I made the mistake of scrolling through the available mods on this forum and already have a list of things to try. I'm just amazed at the design skill and ingenuity of the people in the Voron world. It's quite inspiring!

And the basic details of my printer:

  • 2.4 V2 350 using Blurolls kit
  • Stealthburner with LGX Lite mod
  • Rapido hotend with CHT nozzle
  • Euclid probe
  • Filament width sensor

Thanks to everyone that's made all of this possible.

 

Best regards

Edu

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Welcome to the forum from a fellow Ozzie. Am enjoying the 2.4 and have a similar setup on a 300mm build, except have a Revo Voron hot end. 

Do you have any problems with the Euclid? I still intermittently get a few “cannot evaluate macro……..” errors. 

Unfortunately I fell down the rabbit hole and I am stuck there 🙂

Added:  

1. purge bucket and nozzle scrubber: 

I used this mod: https://www.printables.com/model/201999-nozzle-scrubber-with-a-little-bucket-for-voron-24

as I ran into issues with Euclid (Euclid mounted on gantry)which I was too lazy to try and resolve with the popular option: 

 

2. Front Idlers: 

 

They have a minor update: https://github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/tree/main/Front_Idlers

3. RockNRoll:     Makes it easy to access the electronics

4. Squash ball feet:     (I hate noise)

https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/Slidr/PanzerBalls2.4

5. Handles:  

 

6. 5” BTT Klipperscreen: 

 

 

7. Nevermore Filter: https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro - Essential when printing ABS

8. Sexbolt end stop

 

 

9. AutoZ Calibrationhttps://github.com/protoloft/klipper_z_calibration - Took a while to tune it in, but works very well indeed

 

As you can see, I just can’t resist a good functional mod.

 

Happy printing and welcome again. Looking forward to reading many more posts.

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1 hour ago, mvdveer said:

Welcome to the forum from a fellow Ozzie. Am enjoying the 2.4 and have a similar setup on a 300mm build, except have a Revo Voron hot end. 

Do you have any problems with the Euclid? I still intermittently get a few “cannot evaluate macro……..” errors. 

Unfortunately I fell down the rabbit hole and I am stuck there 🙂

Added:  

1. purge bucket and nozzle scrubber: 

I used this mod: https://www.printables.com/model/201999-nozzle-scrubber-with-a-little-bucket-for-voron-24

as I ran into issues with Euclid (Euclid mounted on gantry)which I was too lazy to try and resolve with the popular option: 

2. Front Idlers: 

They have a minor update: https://github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/tree/main/Front_Idlers

3. RockNRoll:     Makes it easy to access the electronics

4. Squash ball feet:     (I hate noise)

https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/Slidr/PanzerBalls2.4

5. Handles:  

6. 5” BTT Klipperscreen: 

7. Nevermore Filter: https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro - Essential when printing ABS

8. Sexbolt end stop

9. AutoZ Calibrationhttps://github.com/protoloft/klipper_z_calibration - Took a while to tune it in, but works very well indeed

As you can see, I just can’t resist a good functional mod.

Happy printing and welcome again. Looking forward to reading many more posts.

Hi mvdveer.

You have a few good mods there. One or 2 are already on my list and there's some I'll have to look into.

My Euclid probe is running fine so far. The probe mount is mounted in the place of the inductive probe and the dock is mounted to the left bed extrusion. I do have the occasional 'stutter' during probing where it will trigger and then think about it a bit before moving on. But I've not had any actual errors during the probing. Except for one of the first QGL runs where I had the gantry a bit too skewed. The front was way higher than the back, so it errored out before getting to the bed on the front left corner and then moved back to the back right corner but because the gantry was now too low it dug the nozzle into the bed. I changed the code to make sure it lifts more when something like that happens and have been way more careful since then when moving the gantry manually.

I do have one weird thing on the Euclid probe and that is that the probe value increases on average by about 0.002 on every probe. I've increased the probe speed from 5 to 7 and that has improved it a bit. It's not enough to cause any issues as the first layer is coming out nicely but it just doesn't make sense. And it behaves the same with the bed hot or cold, so temperature does not seem to be the cause.

I'm currently waiting on some silicone brushes to test on something like a nozzle scrubber as I've heard a few accounts of CHT nozzles getting ruined by copper brushes. And tested the 'copper' brushes I have on the weekend and found out they like magnets, so they're not actually copper. As a temporary solution for drooling, I've installed a spring-loaded pin on the left bed extrusion and after a print I park the nozzle on that until the temp has fallen below 160C. It's probably not ideal but it keeps the nozzle tip clean enough to make sure z-homing is consistent.

Biggest challenge is deciding which mod to try next...

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