Salmon Skin\Wood Grain. Please help

[Walkerfever]

Hey everyone,

I'm losing my mind over this Salmon skin on My Voron 2.4 350mm.  It started out with a Dragon and a CW2, and its got some pretty bad salmon skin\moire\whatever you want to call it.  I have sense replaced the extruder motor, changed the extruder to a LGX lite (that I robbed from my daughter's printer that was working fine), swapping hot ends to the Red Lizard V5 (also robbed from the other printer), changed AB steppers, swapped in 5160s, swapped in Hiwin rails, got rid of the lightweight gantry, changed nozzles, tried various belt tensions (Shake and tune shows me @ 99.4% similarity and 100% symmetry), tried various currents, various speeds, various temps, retraction amounts and speeds, PA adjustments, smooth_times, interpolate on (normally off), and I'm currently trying a run with the extruder powered from the Octopus Pro instead of the EBB36.    The only change I can see happened when I went from the LGX Lite back to the CW2.  In the picture with the 2 towers you can see the pattern between the 2 is the same, but the lower is tighter (closer together).  The lower tower was printed on the CW2.  I'm at my wit's end, and I don't know what else to do.  Thanks for any help you guys can provide.

Edit:  Running the extruder off of the Octopus didn't change anything.

Edited February 1 by Walkerfever

[claudermilk]

Welcome to the forum.

With the repeating pattern, that makes me suspect something with the belts. Perhaps changing those out? The only other thing I can think of is a bad F695 bearing somewhere causing drag. But that's just me throwing stuff at the wall.

[Walkerfever]

2 hours ago, claudermilk said:

Welcome to the forum.

With the repeating pattern, that makes me suspect something with the belts. Perhaps changing those out? The only other thing I can think of is a bad F695 bearing somewhere causing drag. But that's just me throwing stuff at the wall.

Funny you mention that.  I went through last night and replaced the belts, re-squared the gantry, etc.  texture is still there.  I have rotated the model 45* with no change in the texture.  I'm not ruling out a bearing, but I thought that rotating the model would at least change the texture if it was belt\pulley related.  Tonight I'll be changed thing extruder stepper again.

[PFarm]

Welcome to the forum.

[NikosSprocket]

I have built a 2.4r2 350 myself, and it took twice as long to “square” it compared to my 300. I know it is a pain but if the X and Y (A & B) belts completely removed does the gantry and toolhead move freely and smoothly?

Also, could be a pulley bearing, dirt on a pulley, and when the belts are off the pulley bearing can be checked for free spinning.

Finally, on your Klipper printer.cfg check for your stepper motors:
 

[stepper_x]
.......
rotation_distance: 
microsteps: 
full_steps_per_rotation: 

[tmcXXXX stepper_x]
.......

sense_resistor: 
run_current:
hold_current: 
stealthchop_threshold: 0

(If using SPI:
spi_software_mosi_pin:
spi_software_miso_pin:
spi_software_sclk_pin:)

.......
interpolate: false

 

Same checks for [stepper_y] & [tmcXXXX stepper_y].

 

These are some thoughts I had; of course could be none of them!

Good luck,

Nikos

[Walkerfever]

13 minutes ago, NikosSprocket said:

I have built a 2.4r2 350 myself, and it took twice as long to “square” it compared to my 300. I know it is a pain but if the X and Y (A & B) belts completely removed does the gantry and toolhead move freely and smoothly?

Also, could be a pulley bearing, dirt on a pulley, and when the belts are off the pulley bearing can be checked for free spinning.

Finally, on your Klipper printer.cfg check for your stepper motors:
 

[stepper_x]
.......
rotation_distance: 
microsteps: 
full_steps_per_rotation: 

[tmcXXXX stepper_x]
.......

sense_resistor: 
run_current:
hold_current: 
stealthchop_threshold: 0

(If using SPI:
spi_software_mosi_pin:
spi_software_miso_pin:
spi_software_sclk_pin:)

.......
interpolate: false

Same checks for [stepper_y] & [tmcXXXX stepper_y].

These are some thoughts I had; of course could be none of them!

Good luck,

Nikos

I stripped it down and re-squared the gantry last night, It was hanging up a bit at the rear of the printer and I fixed that, but the texture did not change.  I've tried different AB drivers, AB motors, I modified the XY joint to use 18mm pins (since i had so many left over from the BFI)...and then changed them back to stock, I even ran an extension cable to the Octopus Pro to run the extruder motor off of that to rule out CAN signal issues and\or EBB36 problems.  Nothing changed it.  Later tonight I'll be swapping in the original Sinroot stepper and trying it.  I'm not 100% sure if I swapped that stepper to try and fix this, or try and fix the Dragon HF always clogging (with the Sunon Maglev fan and modified SB ducts), so I'll put it back to see if the texture changes at all.

I was thinking that it could be the 500w Meanwell PSU leaking AC into the DC line.  My reasoning is based off of the fact that the CW2 made the texture closer together while the stepper actually spins slower (compared to the LGX Lite).  If the 60hz of AC is getting into the DC line creating noise, the slower stepper would have a tighter pattern because the AC's oscillation would happen more times in one revolution than it would when the stepper is spinning faster with the LGX Lite.  This is just me grasping really hard at straws because I'm really running out of straws.  I even ran over to Mcdonald's and borrows some of their straws and they didn't work!

[PFarm]

12 minutes ago, Walkerfever said:

This is just me grasping really hard at straws because I'm really running out of straws.  I even ran over to Mcdonald's and borrows some of their straws and they didn't work!

 As for the Dragon HF clogging, I had that issue as well, and replaced it with Rapido V2 been working well ever since. Hope you find a solution to your pattern issue.

[NikosSprocket]

9 hours ago, Walkerfever said:

I was thinking that it could be the 500w Meanwell PSU leaking AC into the DC line.  My reasoning is based off of the fact that the CW2 made the texture closer together while the stepper actually spins slower (compared to the LGX Lite).  If the 60hz of AC is getting into the DC line creating noise, the slower stepper would have a tighter pattern because the AC's oscillation would happen more times in one revolution than it would when the stepper is spinning faster with the LGX Lite.  This is just me grasping really hard at straws because I'm really running out of straws.  I even ran over to Mcdonald's and borrows some of their straws and they didn't work!

Wow! I would never have thought about PSU .....

I think you have passed the straw level, and you are at a fire hose level now!

I hope you find the issue soon. Good luck.

[claudermilk]

Double check belt routing? Besides that I've got nothing beyond what you've already done.

[Walkerfever]

Well it may be fixed, but I'm not overly sure what did it, other than the stepper.  Last night I changed the stepper and changed the ground location for the CAN cable from the PSU chassis to the DC -.  That shouldn't matter, but I figured I'd try it.  Those two things combined, made this difference.

Before:

After:

As you can see, it is significantly better but still there.  I noticed that the pattern was gone for about the first  10-15mm Z.  I thought that maybe I had pulled that much filament off of the spool during my work and the extruder had an easier time pulled it through until it had to actually un roll it off the spool again and the texture came back.  I decided to print another tower, this time pulling enough filament through for the entire model so it wouldn't ever had to pull off of the spool.  While that idea didn't work, I did instantly feel that the filament had inconsistent diameter.  Like bad.  Damn near lumpy.  I went ahead and printer the second tower just to make sure, but it looked just as bad (or just as good, depending on how we are looking at this) as the first....IE almost gone but still there.  Since I felt that on the filament, I decided to go ahead and try PETG again.  When this all started I was texting with Black PETG and was running low.  I swapped over to this Black ABS and saw no difference between it and the PETG, so the ABS became my "troubleshooting" filament since I had more of it. Anyways, the PETG worked GREAT.  Here's a before picture with the PETG (XYZ cube, and then the after is the tower).

Before:

After:

The only other ABS I had was some grey that was OLD but I had been drying it for....well the entire time this debacle has been going on.  Remember I have the printer open to work on it, so this was printed with no enclosure or anything.

 

So is it fixed?  I hope. Does that all makes sense?  Banana.