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Hello. from a new new Voron builder.


Poisson
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Hello,

I am relatively new to 3D printing compared to many of the others on here. I got my first printer in August (A Creality CR-10s Pro V2). Since then I've upgraded it to direct drive, all metal hot end, setup klipper, replaced the cooling system, and just now completed it's final upgrade, a magnetic spring steel PEX coated sheet for the bed.

At this point, there's not a whole of tinkering left to be done on this printer and I began my search of what I should do next as the tinkering soul inside me must be left to labor. This led me to the Voron project (a name I had heard in discords I am a part of), and I started researching what was involved to build a Voron. Looking through youtube videos and build guides I thought to myself "This looks like a ton of fun" so I ordered a Formbot 2.4 R2 350mm kit, as well as the parts needed to build stealthburner. I am eagerly awaiting my kit, as well as my place in the queue for PiF for the printed parts. (I would have tried printed them myself, but I have no enclosure).

 

Edited by Poisson
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Welcome aboard! You are absoutely right, building a Voron is a ton of fun and you've got some good experience with your CR-10 upgrades. Please consider running a build diary for you new baby,it's a great way to interact with the community, get ideas and share experiences. I would also say, don't be put off tryng to print ABS on your highly modded printer. You don't need much for an enclosure (a big card box can suffice in plenty of cases). One of the primary purposes of the enclosure is to prevent temperature fluctations (drafts and the like) and there's plenty of ways of doing that. I would recommend having a look at  Andrew Ellis' excellent guides on tuning your printer - even on a non-Voron they are useful for getting things right for printing ABS parts (for a Voron). I think the advantage of being able to print your own ABS parts (for a Voron) is as an insurance policy. It might just be me but I did destroy or damage one or two parts for my Voron when inserting heat-inserts and generally being hashy when assembling things. I was grateful  that I could fabricate my own parts and have spares on hand. It's always good to have spares 🙂

I look forward to see your build.

 

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3 hours ago, Poisson said:

s the tinkering soul inside me must be left to labor.

Music to my soul. Welcome to the forum. As @smirk has saidplease do a build diary - we love to follow along. In this forum you will be met by a bunch of helpful people, ready to help and encourage.

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3 hours ago, smirk said:

Welcome aboard! You are absoutely right, building a Voron is a ton of fun and you've got some good experience with your CR-10 upgrades. Please consider running a build diary for you new baby,it's a great way to interact with the community, get ideas and share experiences. I would also say, don't be put off tryng to print ABS on your highly modded printer. You don't need much for an enclosure (a big card box can suffice in plenty of cases). One of the primary purposes of the enclosure is to prevent temperature fluctations (drafts and the like) and there's plenty of ways of doing that. I would recommend having a look at  Andrew Ellis' excellent guides on tuning your printer - even on a non-Voron they are useful for getting things right for printing ABS parts (for a Voron). I think the advantage of being able to print your own ABS parts (for a Voron) is as an insurance policy. It might just be me but I did destroy or damage one or two parts for my Voron when inserting heat-inserts and generally being hashy when assembling things. I was grateful  that I could fabricate my own parts and have spares on hand. It's always good to have spares 🙂

I look forward to see your build.

I decided to take your advice and try to build a cardboard enclosure as I had an over abundance of carboard and silver duct tape lying around, and here is what I came up with. I made the front face attach via velcro so it could be removed more easily to take the box on and off (short ceiling in my basement, gotta finagle this thing on and off the printer.).

PXL_20221009_192928603.thumb.jpg.6da2134311b142204681b46d5820581d.jpgPXL_20221009_193006498.thumb.jpg.a87102c822bc18c14e04161d89378f0e.jpg

I know air tight isn't the goal with something like this, but due to the depth of my desk I do have a small gap at the rear of the base of about 4 or so inches. Do you think I should seal this up before printing, or will that be okay? it can be seen in the final photo.

PXL_20221009_193047388.thumb.jpg.eb3a0a02f504b85d20f7108e4466b3b2.jpg

Believe it or not, I was already in planning to setup an exhaust fan in this room so I could more safely print ABS and exhaust fumes to outside the house, so I should have that angle of this covered in the coming days. I guess maybe I'll try printing my own parts after all, I certainly would rather do that if I have the option.

Edited by Poisson
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6 minutes ago, Poisson said:

I guess maybe I'll try printing my own parts after all, I certainly would rather do that if I have the option.

Part of Fun of building a Voron. The cardboard box will work well for printing ABS. To help minimise the possibility of warping, consider a chamber "heat soak". Heat the bed and hotted to the desired temperature and allow to settle for 20min or so before starting the print. Lining the inside of the cardboard with some foil will prevent accidental fire to the cardboard. (The chamber may reach temperatures up to 50C). I initially used a fire blanket over the cardboard enclosure for additional safety

A good idea is to start printing the parts in order of which they will be used if you want to get on with the build. Alternatively print the accent parts first as these a generally smaller and less likely to warp, then follow with the other parts.

ABS+ is also less prone to warp but can't be polished with acetone as ABS .

Exited to see the build come along.

17 minutes ago, Poisson said:

I do have a small gap at the rear of the base of about 4 or so inches

Draft is the biggest enemy to ABS - it causes warping. Seal it if you can - duct tape or even a temporary seal such as a piece of foam stuck into the gap.

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5 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

 Lining the inside of the cardboard with some foil will prevent accidental fire to the cardboard. (The chamber may reach temperatures up to 50C). I initially used a fire blanket over the cardboard enclosure for additional safety

Can I just use standard aluminum foil for this?

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Welcome to the forum!

That box will do fine. I had similar (though smaller) gaps with the box over my Prusa Mini. It worked fine. The only parts that gave me trouble were the feet and skirts. Those are the larger parts, so warped. I used some glue stick and big brims and that solved my issue.

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