Milo 1.5 + Casa

[PFarm]

Nice that you got the printed parts ready! The cabling used was 18-gauge. Some food for thought, the Z stepper is smaller on the V1.6, smaller motors mean less torque and going direct drive. My concern with that setup is the loss of torque when drilling, and why I'll be keeping the 1.5 setup.

Thanks for the compliment. The SWM tool plate is a little trickier to mount, as it requires holes through the custom mounting plates I'll be milling. Ordered some low-profile M5 screws for that application. I think the bellows will work out nicely, but I need to keep an eye on chip build-up between the pleats, not to lose and steps when Y moves toward the Z column.

I'm also considering going with a ballscrew on X/Y, not the ones that will be suggested for 1.6, but a 1210 ballscrew, which is 12mm diameter and has a 10 lead. It does require some machining to the ballscrew nut, but it's worth it IMO with the 10 lead it keeps the speed needed like the T8 leadscrew used on V1.5.

Edited August 14, 2025 by PFarm

[NewGradRN]

Wish I got your info about the ball screw earlier.. Being side tracked with the Miley 1.6, I went and ordered a set of the suggested SFK 8202 ball screws from Alibaba.. Anyway, thanks 18awg cabling fro the motors. Do they need to be shielded? Another question, since the milo will be in the Casa, did you leave any electrical/electronic component in the milo? (except the motors).  Thanks

[PFarm]

The only cable that is shielded is the one going from the VFD to the Spindle. All electronics are moved to the Casa. Mechanical is done, so you're onto the electronics? Are you planning on keeping the table that the electronics were mounted to? If so may consider printing the mono skirt for the front and back. Stronger legs. Some have had the OEM legs break off. 

https://www.printables.com/model/919628-milo-v15-casa-monoskirt

 

Edited August 14, 2025 by PFarm

[NewGradRN]

Yes I am Planning on leaving it on the table where the electronics were. I did found the miniskirt you mentioned before but unluckily, my Voron 2.4 started  throwing "MCU disconnected" error and I can't figure it out. Checked all wirings and connections, checked the microSD, put a fan blowing directly into the electronic bay, and still error. I did not want to get held up building the milo so I am printing with my K1C and the table is not big enough. To replace the legs and secure the milo to the casa, I am looking for a 20 series 4040 corner bracket to I'll just make one out of aluminum stock. I hope to get the milo working soon hopefully before the end of September. 

[NewGradRN]

Finally !! I am finish with the mechanical assembly. After an almost (might as well) complete tear down to install modded backlash nut housing on all axis which took me some time. Took PFarm's suggestion and reprinted the front and back mono piece table skirts. Remixed the legs to a more heavy duty which also clamps on the side extrusion. Installed the column side braces (copied from PFarm). With the SMW and Inception vises being designed round an M6 screws, I made a fixture plate from a ⅝" thick cast tooling aluminum. The holes are also 20mm between centers but I want them to line up with the slot so I could use a longer screw that pass through the fixture. The chip guard was copied from V1.6 /V2 design except I did not want to tear things down again so I created some snap on mounting that just plug in to the XY plate.

The screws seen on the pic below is just to strengthen the tab that hook to the XY plate existing holes below.

Below are the STL files if interested.

 

Below Rear-Rear Mount.stlBelow Rear-Front Mount.stlBelow Fwd-Rear Mount.stlBelow Fwd-Front Mount.stl

 

 

[NewGradRN]

I plan to mount the electronics to a board temporarily to get it running and tram.. But I have a question, maybe it's my imagination since I have not build the casa yet but it seems that most of the existing wirings are too short to reach the Casa enclosure wall. Would this be the case? Thanks

[PFarm]

Looks amazing, very nice build! Did you have the fixture plate custom-built?

[PFarm]

Yes, the OEM wiring is too short. There are multiple options West 3D make this break out board. If you're using the BTT Scylla board you cut the ends and install ferrules.

What most of us have done is choose some type of bulkhead connector to extend the wiring into CASA. I used Deutsch connectors for my build. 

Used this rear casa plate and an extra 2020 extrusion to create the panel mount for the connectors.

Back side of the bulkheads.

Then into the electronics bay.

Another thing to consider is the location of the on/off switch on the Casa. Located at the back is a pain to get to, at least for me. Consider wiring an on/off at the front of the Casa enclosure. I choose to get a wifi breaker that I can control from my smart phone.

• Add a second fan at the front of the Casa and mount it so it draws air in. (Out with the rear fan)
• Clicky Clank door for the electronic bay
• Lighting in the electronic bay
• I did the front drawer on the Casa, the end mill and collet drawers become cumbersome with opening and closing when milling. Small parts storage is a better combo.
• Moving the VFD display to the front of the Casa allows for a visual RPM readout while milling.
• LED inside Casa and electronics bay
• Add on/off switches for the electronic bay LED lighting

Edited August 31, 2025 by PFarm

[NewGradRN]

Yes, I have been looking at your build and trying to incorporate all your mods into my build. Yours is like the model for a lot of builds I think. ha ha.. My fixture plate was done by a local shop. I got the tooling aluminum plate and brought it there with my specs. I only had them mill it to size and drilled. I did the tapping my self. Used my DIY remix Baileigh tapping machine. 

[NewGradRN]

I ordered 16mm aviation connectors and 18awg 6 conductor wires. I replaced the Z motor with the bigger motor used on 1.6 and V2 (57STH86-3004A) but I maintained the belt drive configuration for more torque as you mentioned. I hope to get it running this week so I can start on the casa. I will surely incorporate your mids on the casa as well.. Thank you for sharing the details of your build.

[PFarm]

1 minute ago, NewGradRN said:

I ordered 16mm aviation connectors and 18awg 6 conductor wires. 

Those would have been my go-to connectors had I not already had the Deustcch bulkheads. Do you have a 4-conductor shielded cable for the spindle?

[NewGradRN]

Not yet, I thought I had. Bought some belden VFD wire while back, they are 3 conductors 

 

 

[NewGradRN]

The spindle came with a cable,  I'll check if it is shielded. 

[NewGradRN]

Yes, according to KB3D site where I purchased my kit. It says that the LDO spindle cable that was in the cable kit box and the G-penny spindle cable that came with the 2.2 kw spindle are both shielded.

[NewGradRN]

This is what I used to tap all the holes. Design courtesy of Baileigh Arm Tapping Machines.

Fits the SMW Hobby vise nice but tight.

[PFarm]

This is the first time I've heard of the tapping machine; it's a really nice setup. You have both hobby vices  . I see you have a lathe in the background. What make and model? I'm looking to add one to my shop.

[NewGradRN]

 

The lathe is a Grizzly G4003, I got this early 2000. It's a nice size lathe with 1.5" spindle bore.

[NewGradRN]

I think I should have stick to 1.5 kw if going 110v. Now that I have seriously thought about it and read different articles in 2.2 kw spindles in 110v supply, I think I’m pushing my luck with 2.2kw.. My 110v 20A receptacle might not even be able to handle it. Your input please..

[PFarm]

6 minutes ago, NewGradRN said:

I think I should have stick to 1.5 kw if going 110v. Now that I have seriously thought about it and read different articles in 2.2 kw spindles in 110v supply, I think I’m pushing my luck with 2.2kw.. My 110v 20A receptacle might not even be able to handle it. Your input please..

2200watts divided by 110V = 20 amps, which puts your receptacle at 100%. The circuit should only be loaded at 80% which is 16 amps. A breaker protects the wire from overheating. Using a 10-gauge wire with a 20-amp breaker would be safe.

 

[NewGradRN]

Thanks for the clear explanation. I will have to check what size wire they used when I had that 20a receptacle installed in the garage. And still, drawing too much current scares me.. particularly thinking that some operation may take some time. I wonder if 15A breaker would trip at spindle startup..

[PFarm]

21 minutes ago, NewGradRN said:

Thanks for the clear explanation. I will have to check what size wire they used when I had that 20a receptacle installed in the garage. And still, drawing too much current scares me.. particularly thinking that some operation may take some time. I wonder if 15A breaker would trip at spindle startup..

Normally, 12-gauge wires are used for a 20-amp circuit. The other solution would be the purchase a 220V. VFD, then your 20-amp circuit would be adequate. You'd need a double 20-amp breaker at the panel and a 220V 20-amp receptacle in the garage, and 12-gauge wire is sized correctly. That my setup in my shop: 220V 20 amp circuit. 2200 divided by 220 = only draws 10 amps

15-amp circuit is a no-go!

[NewGradRN]

Good news for me, Kris from KB3D just replied to me and said that he will swap my 110v spindle and vfd with 220v.. I’ll just pay the shipping round trip.. 

[PFarm]

1 minute ago, NewGradRN said:

Good news for me, Kris from KB3D just replied to me and said that he will swap my 110v spindle and vfd with 220v.. I’ll just pay the shipping round trip.. 

That's awesome, nice to see a supplier caring about their customer!

[NewGradRN]

Yes, it's not the first time. Kris from KB3D helped me on my Voron 2.4 issue as well... Great store, great people.

[NewGradRN]

Started the electrical/electronic component installation (on temporary board) referencing PFarm's build photos. The components that came with the kit I suppose (I am guessing) was designed around 1.5KW spindle and VFD and since I opted for 2.2kw, current requirement would have changed. The first question is the main power fused receptacle. The one that came with the kit is rated at 10 amps 250V. Do I need to change this to something else since the breaker inside the panel would be rated at 20 amp? Additionally, the largest AWG power cable that fit that power receptacle is 14 AWG. Thanks for your help