Milo 1.5 + Casa

[NewGradRN]

Completed printing all the required parts for the Milo 1.5 and Casa. Accent color is going to be yellow. Been going thru PFarm and other Milo builder postings and watching build videos particularly the live video by Steve on YouTube. Learned a lot before starting so .. Thanks

Day 1:

Broke open the box and setup all the parts in the table.

Oh and you guys says Let there be Locktite!!!

Day 2: 

Started assembling the anti-backlash nuts. The lead screw nuts fit in the printed blocks tight so removing or adjusting them after being tightened all the way is difficult. I tapped all the mounting holes of the three nuts with an M4 and inserted m4 set screws which act as the adjustment screws and stops of the lead screw backlash nuts as well.

 

[NewGradRN]

Day 3:

Cleaned and lubed all MGN15 carriers using EP2 as recommended. 

Put together the Y and X axis but took it apart again.

 

W

 

With just the ends of the rail screwed and tighten, the carriers slides smooth and easy with some resistance but when the rest of the screws are tighten, it travel still smoothly but the resistance increases dramatically. I read something about alignment and shimming so I will have to figure out how to do it. There are infos and videos about tramming  but nothing about the rail.

[NewGradRN]

Another day: 

Checked horizontal and vertical alignment of the rails looks straight and even.  

Put it all back together again and loosened the backlash tension. It seems to loosen the travel tension. I can now turn the screw by hand but still the tension seems not right. Took it apart again, but this time took all the X axis part off the gantry plate to gain access to the Y lead screw block mounting screws. inserted the gantry plate to the Y rail and loosened the Y lead screw nut block mounting screws. Found that after loosening the block mounting screws, much of the resistance went away. Tightened the screws again now it moves more freely. Then the gantry plate was removed again to install the X axis components. In same way, the gantry was inserted to the X rails and the to tighten the X lead screw nut block mounting screw. and put everything back together. Wheww, that was a lot of work... but I'm happier ha ha..

 Copied PFarm's idea, drilled 3 through holes on the 2040 extrusion to create 3 blind joints between the 2040 and the C-beam.

Moving along...

Edited July 24, 2025 by NewGradRN
Added photo

[NewGradRN]

A not very productive day. Got the column assembled but got stuck in the installation of the Z mounting plate. during initial installation, the carriers would lock up to the rails when the carrier mounting screws were tightened. I thought that the rails were not aligned so I remove the z plate with the carriers and dial in the rails. Put the Z plate back on but still the same problem. Checked the flatness of the plate and it is good. Then checked the level across the top of the carriers and there is the problem. The carriers are tilted inward. I measured the gap clearance to 0.0025, enough to lift the balls against the rails and lock it up. For sure it was due to tilted rails. Question: should I shim the rails or the space between the carriers and the Z plate...

[PFarm]

I would shim under the rails. Most likely, this is caused by the extrusion not being levelled (Toed inward). I'd also recommend you take a look at these modified antibacklash nuts. Just replaced mine; both Y/X have cracks in them. https://www.printables.com/model/1295536-milo-15-anti-backlash-locknuts

This design makes it easier to align the brass nuts and adjust the backlash. It eliminates the heat insets and uses Nyloc nuts, so no need for Loctite. I've found that Loctite tends to pull the heat insert loose when you try to re-adjust the backlash. Awesome build BTW. I see another CNC in the background!

Edited July 31, 2025 by PFarm

[NewGradRN]

Thanks, I did shimmed under the rails and it helped a bit but still tightens up when the screws are secured. I used a Steel reinforced JB Weld epoxy to shim above the inner side of the carriers and it worked great. I like your recommendation about these backlash nut blocks. Great timing for me since I am still in the process of building... 

 

I wanted to do an initial tramming of the axis without the spindle mount to make sure that the column and the Z plate is squared to the Y so I won't have to consider it later. But with the backlash nut blocks mods... Ok, apart again it goes...  

[PFarm]

37 minutes ago, NewGradRN said:

Thanks, I did shimmed under the rails and it helped a bit but still tightens up when the screws are secured. I used a Steel reinforced JB Weld epoxy to shim above the inner side of the carriers and it worked great. I like your recommendation about these backlash nut blocks. Great timing for me since I am still in the process of building... 

I wanted to do an initial tramming of the axis without the spindle mount to make sure that the column and the Z plate is squared to the Y so I won't have to consider it later. But with the backlash nut blocks mods... Ok, apart again it goes...  

Yes, that's why I shared the link since you're still building! A note on the X/Y nuts, the hole for the Nyloc nuts are a little oversized. I'd epoxy them in place to keep them from spinning. This will allow you to make adjustments to the backlash tension while on the machine. You access them by removing the X/Y bearing block.  Let through another curve ball at you. There's an early release of V1.6, which is an upgrade of V1.5. It uses some of the parts used in the Milo V2 and Miley Mills. I've you're interested I can send you the step file via email (too big a file to share on here). V1.6 step file is a paid access, but told we can do what we want with the file, so if interested, I can share it with you.

 

 

Edited August 1, 2025 by PFarm

[PFarm]

Here is the tramming tool that I've used on my Milo. To properly tram the Z column, use the tramming tool I've provided and use the two 123 blocks in the kit to set your dial indicator on, do side-to-side (loosen the four M5 holding Z to Y on the FMJ plate) for front-to-back use, and shims behind the spindle mount. I'd also suggest that you add some additional holes to your fixture plate. Once you have the tram set, you may have to shim under the fixture plate to get it levelled.

Tram Swing Arm.step

Here is my modified fixture plate clamps. I didn't like how small these were, so I made them taller and longer towards the extrusion.

 

Fixated clamp - Tall Boy Drilled v2.f3d

Edited August 1, 2025 by PFarm

[NewGradRN]

Oh seriously yes, I would be very much interested in upgrading to 1.6 and quite perfect in timing. I sent you a message with my email on it, thanks.. Printing the modified backlash nut blocks and just wondering if 1.6 made changes to the blocks..  

[PFarm]

7 minutes ago, NewGradRN said:

Oh seriously yes, I would be very much interested in upgrading to 1.6 and quite perfect in timing. I sent you a message with my email on it, thanks.. Printing the modified backlash nut blocks and just wondering if 1.6 made changes to the blocks..  

Email sent. Yup, they made changes to the blocks completely different, still uses the brass inserts but adds a spring washer and a grease fitting. There is an additional floating bearing assembly, and the bearing blocks have a thrust bearing. Note on the spring washer, the 20mm x 10.2mm x 5mm are the ones to purchase when using the printed block. The CNC blocks the washer thickness can use the .8 or 1mm ones, these apply to much pressure for the printed part and cause to much deflection. You should join us on Millennium Machine on Discord, lots of knowledgeable, friendly people.

Edited August 1, 2025 by PFarm

[PFarm]

Not sure what comes in the LDO kit for the leadscrew collars, but I've used these since the set screw tightens onto the leadscrew thread instead of in between the threads. Never mind I see that they supply a split collar that works just as well.

 

Link for the collars

Edited August 1, 2025 by PFarm

[PFarm]

Any plans of upgrading to the Scylla board? I highly recommend it.

[NewGradRN]

Got it.. 

Just opened it on fusion and wow... this looks a totally different machine with some similarity. The table is all printed components, built in chip louver cover. Needed different Z motor. optional spindle mounts.. I think I will build this as a new one next and keep the 1.5 as is. With the Z motor vertically mounted as direct drive, would it fit the Casa?

[NewGradRN]

Yes, I already bought the Scylla. Basically looking up your build and getting what you have except for the water cooled spindle.

 

Got SMW Gen3 hobby and Inception LP vices but I would have to re-drill and tap the tool plate to M6. Also picked up a touch probe.

[NewGradRN]

On second thought... I want this 1.6 upgrade now... so.. seems I will be busy printing and ordering required new parts... ha ha... Ok.... Will update with progress on 1.6 mods

Thanks again for the 1.6 files...

Yes, I have joined the Millennium Machine on Discord when I started the build.

Edited August 1, 2025 by NewGradRN
Added info

[PFarm]

9 minutes ago, NewGradRN said:

Got it.. 

Just opened it on fusion and wow... this looks a totally different machine with some similarity. The table is all printed components, built in chip louver cover. Needed different Z motor. optional spindle mounts.. I think I will build this as a new one next and keep the 1.5 as is. With the Z motor vertically mounted as direct drive, would it fit the Casa?

It suppose to fit in case but I'm going to keep the belted Z motors since I do use carbide drill bits and the added torque of the belt drive makes more sense.

[PFarm]

19 minutes ago, NewGradRN said:

Yes, I already bought the Scylla. Basically looking up your build and getting what you have except for the water cooled spindle.

 

Got SMW Gen3 hobby and Inception LP vices but I would have to re-drill and tap the tool plate to M6. Also picked up a touch probe.

Some have used these M5 finishing washers to secure the vice. Looking forward to your progress on the V1.6 mods.

[PFarm]

@NewGradRN You may want to consider completing the V1.5 since there are three plates that you need to mill on the V1.5. The X/Y plate and two spindle mount plates.

[NewGradRN]

Ha ha.. I was just about to ask.. Ok then.. back to 1.5.. thanks

 

[PFarm]

1 minute ago, NewGradRN said:

Ha ha.. I was just about to ask.. Ok then.. back to 1.5.. thanks

Emailed you the 3 steps files.

[NewGradRN]

Thank you, got the files... Ordered the M5 finish washer from Amazon. 

[NewGradRN]

Did you find a source for the longer LDO-57STH76-2804AC used on V1.6 Z axis. I searched the web but no luck. Emailed LDO sales for inquiry but no response yet.

[PFarm]

6 minutes ago, NewGradRN said:

Did you find a source for the longer LDO-57STH76-2804AC used on V1.6 Z axis. I searched the web but no luck. Emailed LDO sales for inquiry but no response yet.

No, I didn't, since I'm planning on keeping the belt drive setup, and the additional torque is better for drilling with Milo. Here is a link from Mellow for that motor.

[NewGradRN]

I saw that one also but it is the same that came in the kit. Keeping the same geared configuration is best as you said so I will do the same. Thanks

[NewGradRN]

Got side tracked with the introduction of 1.6...  in the process of looking into the 1.6 printed parts, I saw the Miley V2 while pre released version on Printables and got hooked by that. I had to work my mind hard to get back into 1.5... Anyway, started putting it all back with the modified backlash nuts. practically done with the mechanical assembly. I am referencing on your (PFarm), may I ask what size cabling did you use for the motors.. By the way yours look pretty impressive particularly with the bellows and the SMW tool plate.. 

Ok, now back to 1.5...

Edited August 14, 2025 by NewGradRN
Added pictures