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mini 12864 display


McCosch
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Depends on what you mean by doesn't work 😉, I'm presuming the screen is blank and not full of gibberish. Can you see if the back-light is on (faint glow coming from the screen)? Or is it completely dead (no light and nothing displayed)?

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I ran into a similar issue during initial start up.

I have a FYSETC mini12864 going to an Octopus V1.x

I followed the recommendations from the following article: https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/electrical/mini12864_klipper_guide.html, except I left R1 & R4 intact, I only reversed the two connector housings as explained.

My mini 12864 sprung to life on the next bootup with all the basic functions operating correclty.

Now whether leaving R1 & R4 instact was the correct thing to do...that I'm not sure off. Maybe someone with a lot more knowledge can elaborate on that.

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4 hours ago, Wannabe said:

except I left R1 & R4 intact

From memory (I'll need to try and source the document) the R1 and R4 resistors (and whether or not they were intact) was something to do with the "reset" switch on the board. I imagine the resistors are intended as pull up/down resistors and are wired the wrong way around, as the issue I saw listed was the moment you press the reset switch on the 12864 display it creates a short-circuit (between +V and ground) and just burns out the display board or the MCU port.

Like many things it isn't all boards by all manufacturers (just some). I'll try and source the reference as it means a display works until, possibly, the horrible day you deliberately/accidentally hit that button.

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19 hours ago, smirk said:

Like many things it isn't all boards by all manufacturers (just some). I'll try and source the reference as it means a display works until, possibly, the horrible day you deliberately/accidentally hit that button.

Sounds rather important, if you do come across anything please post your findings.

 

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@Wannabe Found it, it's actually on the Fysetc wiki, they only talk about their F6/Spider board (guess that's what they make so it's all they care about) but I imagine it may affect other boards  (so perhaps things like Octopus boards, etc), and clearly other 12864 displays (as they're all essentially clones of one another).

To be fair the Fysetc documentation on component removal corroborates the VoronDesign documentation where they mention removing R1 & R4 from the Fysetc and R1 & C6 from the BTT display. Sadly they don't explain why the components need to be removed i.e. the magic black smoke will escape.

I got my [Fysetc] 12864 display as a bundle with a Spider board so I was particularly interested....

Just in case the Wiki pages goes, the actual text is:

Quote

In order to be compatible with some motherboards, such as RAMPS1.4, mini12864 is equipped with RST (R3) and KILL (R4) optional resistors. At present, some motherboards (S6/Spider) change the KILL to 5V. At this time, please make sure that R4 on the mini12864 is in the empty state, otherwise pressing the button on the screen will cause a short circuit between 5V and GND, and long-term operation will cause the motherboard to be damaged.

 

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On 7/16/2022 at 2:06 AM, smirk said:

@Wannabe Found it, it's actually on the Fysetc wiki, they only talk about their F6/Spider board (guess that's what they make so it's all they care about) but I imagine it may affect other boards  (so perhaps things like Octopus boards, etc), and clearly other 12864 displays (as they're all essentially clones of one another).

To be fair the Fysetc documentation on component removal corroborates the VoronDesign documentation where they mention removing R1 & R4 from the Fysetc and R1 & C6 from the BTT display. Sadly they don't explain why the components need to be removed i.e. the magic black smoke will escape.

I got my [Fysetc] 12864 display as a bundle with a Spider board so I was particularly interested....

Just in case the Wiki pages goes, the actual text is:

Thanks for sharing your findings.

Based on my limited electronics experience, can I safely assume that in order to remove R1 & R4 all I would have to do is snip those resistors off the board with a sharp flush wire cutter?

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Hello,

It may be that you also have to activate a firmware via SD card for the Mini12864 panel. I've read so much now and seen videos but no exact details. Maybe someone else has an idea how I can make my black picture of the Mini12864 panel shine.

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@Wannabe (noting the usual caveats about "on your head be it" 😉) you could snip them off with flush cutters. Personally I'd use a soldering iron and remove them that way from the board (but I appreciate that's if you have one) but  snipping them works (basically anything that removes them from the circuit ).

 

@McCosch I'm not sure for the 12864 there is some magic firmware option, now having said that my father was mucking around with his printer and did have to separately flash the firmware on the display (although he was not using klipper and I cannot remember the model of screen he had). However, I'll check with him. I've never had to flash the firmware on  a screen (might be different if I had a fancy touch screen or something with "intelligence") in my experience when a screen has not worked it's either been DOA, incorrectly wired (perhaps due to mislabelled silk-screening) or no software support (or incorrect driver selected). I would imagine at a minimum there'd have to be a way to put the controller on the display into some sort of boot mode/flash mode, that might be a jumper. Looking at one of my fysetc 12864 displays and there are no (obvious) jumpers for such a setting. I'll get some details from my dad to see if they're relevant here.

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Ok, that "firmware" flash I mentioned - that was an ender-3/creality display thing so not relevant here, other than to perhaps highlight if there were firmware then it would be provided by the display's manufacturer. I appreciate there's multiple vendors with similar 12864 displays but the FYSTEC site (relates to my displays) don't seem to have a separate firmware for their display unit....so [display] firmware possibly isn't the fix. I don't think I'd asked but it would probably be helpful if we knew which manufacturer's/model of 12864 display you had. They clearly all have their own unique "flaws" judging by some of the subtleties of the Voron documentation.

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3 minutes ago, smirk said:

Ok, that "firmware" flash I mentioned - that was an ender-3/creality display thing so not relevant here, other than to perhaps highlight if there were firmware then it would be provided by the display's manufacturer. I appreciate there's multiple vendors with similar 12864 displays but the FYSTEC site (relates to my displays) don't seem to have a separate firmware for their display unit....so [display] firmware possibly isn't the fix. I don't think I'd asked but it would probably be helpful if we knew which manufacturer's/model of 12864 display you had. They clearly all have their own unique "flaws" judging by some of the subtleties of the Voron documentation.

bigtreetech mini 12864 v 1.2 lcd display

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Sorry I'm not being much help here

I'm drawing a blank on this. Nothing is leaping out along the longs of "Yeah, that model wires everything backwards". Interestingly I can only find the V1.0 version of the mini on there website but who doesn't have out-dated documentation these days? Although,  I may be being stupid and misunderstood, but there is a v1.2 of their TFT35 screen which supports a 12864 mode?

In the Mini 12864  manual I can see where  confusions over firmware might arise. It talks about some default/test firmware having been loaded onto the display and then promptly displays some Marlin configuration - I think it is a poor translation and they are really talking about the firmware on the [printers] controller board all along and the steps to reset the marlin config (not necessary with klipper as there's the printer.cfg).

Barring anyone else on the forum who has one of these displays and who could provide more specific guidance, my advice would be to check the pins on both ends of the EXP1 and EXP2 connections match (i.e. things are orientated consistently). The BTT gitub provides a layout of the board that shows the orientation of the connectors plus what pins are what, if you get similar for your MCU you can then match up the pairs. The most that you will need to do is match the 5V and GND pins on the connectors (different MCUs will call the signal pins different things e.g. (PA5 rather than MOSI) to prove the orientation is consistent between the display and MCU.

I might have been tempted to suggest trying a different  [firmware] driver in your printer.cfg but looking in sample Klipper LCD config it looks like there's really only one option (uc1701) for the Fysetc and BTT 12864 boards, all the other  drivers relate to some manufacturer specific boards.

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19 hours ago, smirk said:

@Wannabe (noting the usual caveats about "on your head be it" 😉) you could snip them off with flush cutters. Personally I'd use a soldering iron and remove them that way from the board (but I appreciate that's if you have one) but  snipping them works (basically anything that removes them from the circuit ).

 

Appreciate the guidance, I agree desoldering the resistors would be the proper way to go. I'll give it a go tomorrow.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 7/19/2022 at 5:28 PM, Demosth said:

Let us know how it goes so we can mark the correct response!

Based on Smirk's informative comments/suggestions I removed the R1 & R4 resistors from the FYSETC mini12864. I didn't have a small enough solder tip to safely desolder the resistors so I very carefully cut off the reisistors with an exacto type blade making darn sure I didn't damage any of the other resistors in close proximity, the removal went well without damaging the ajoining resistors. I reattached the LCD, powered the unit up and tested all the functions of display, all is good.

Now I just want to mention I have not tested the reset function of this LCD for a couple of reasons; 1) I don't acutally know what the reset actually resets! ( if someone nows please leave a comment) & 2) if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Thanks to all for their feedback.

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