rabbit hole Voron 2.4r2 350 mm getting serviced & updated aka "Rabbit Hole"

[NikosSprocket]

Forgot the Logo LED!

[NikosSprocket]

After some tuning and learning ORCA I put the new toolhead to the test!

For everyday printing using PLA (actually the new CoPE from Polymaker) at 240 deg. can push 20 mm/sec at around 350 mm/sec speed. If I increase the temperature to 290 using ORCA's VFA speed test I managed 500 mm/sec speed!

At 420 mm/sec. The blemish seen about 3/4 up the print is around 360 mm/sec and I can hear the extruder started skipping. Then I raised the temperature to 290 deg. and it got smooth again.

Shot from a video during testing. It's very hard to see the actual 500 mm/sec as it only happens for a very short time.

 

[NikosSprocket]

It is very surprising to me that VFA tower was that smooth all the way to 500mm/sec. besides around the 350 mark where could not melt enough filament 

[NikosSprocket]

Hopefully this is the last version of the blower; after testing, I will print an ASA print and done!

At this point, the turbine part fan is setup at max_power: 0.6  and in Orca min. 10% and max. 50%!

The bridges and overhangs are printing amazing; even curves without supports; see following bolthole image during printing.

I think I need to work on my top layer. It could look better.

Also, even when I managed to get 500 mm/sec during testing, this print out is mostly at 200 and 250 mm/sec. depending on the layer.

The infill is 5% Gyroid for sound deadening.

This supposes to be purple colour. I guess my phone's camera AI thought will look better in this blue colour!!!

The black parts are gaskets from eSun Elastic 175.

Edited July 4, 2025 by NikosSprocket

[TitusADuxass]

@NikosSprocket I've been following your thread, and because of your success I'm going to try the same printhead.

I'm running an Orbiter 2 and a Rapido 2 UHF so I'll be using SneakyTreeSnake's original STLs.

I've noticed that you're using Prusa Slicer - can you send me your Prusa Slicer Voron Profile. I'm interested in trying another slicer.

[NikosSprocket]

12 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

@NikosSprocket I've been following your thread, and because of your success I'm going to try the same printhead.

I'm running an Orbiter 2 and a Rapido 2 UHF so I'll be using SneakyTreeSnake's original STLs.

I've noticed that you're using Prusa Slicer - can you send me your Prusa Slicer Voron Profile. I'm interested in trying another slicer.

@TitusADuxass I have attached both the Orca and PS profiles of the "new" 350 printer.

The ORCA profile is the one I am using now, as I am not actively using the PS any more; The PS using it as my reference only, and I am moving all slicing to ORCA.

I have included the PS profile, but I only used it a few times in the beginning and is not tuned. I actually reverted to PS 2.9.0 because they removed the manual Print Sequence by Object and will not add it back as they want you to only use the "AI" version, which it's ok, about 50% of the time. Some other users and I have opened a Github bug case with Prusa and were told that's that! Too bad, I was a PrusaSlicer follower for the last 6 years, but I moved to ORCA now. Btw, if you want to try another Slicer and you are ok with complexity, you should try SuperSlicer. It's like tuning a race car! You have on your hands every option available in the Slicer code; it was too much for me, lol!

Btw, I got inspiration of my toolhead from SneakyTreeSnake's design, but I did not like the cooling pipe's performance, so I created my own "aka Rabbit Hole"! Eventually, I will upload the design but will only work with the hardware I have.

Very soon, I will put up on Printables my CPAP blower setup, which will work with any toolhead on any Voron 2.4.

PRUSASlicer-Voron24-350_config.ini ORCA-Voron 2.4 350 0.4 nozzle - Texter.orca_printer

[TitusADuxass]

8 hours ago, NikosSprocket said:

@TitusADuxass I have attached both the Orca and PS profiles of the "new" 350 printer.

The ORCA profile is the one I am using now, as I am not actively using the PS any more; The PS using it as my reference only, and I am moving all slicing to ORCA.

I have included the PS profile, but I only used it a few times in the beginning and is not tuned. I actually reverted to PS 2.9.0 because they removed the manual Print Sequence by Object and will not add it back as they want you to only use the "AI" version, which it's ok, about 50% of the time. Some other users and I have opened a Github bug case with Prusa and were told that's that! Too bad, I was a PrusaSlicer follower for the last 6 years, but I moved to ORCA now. Btw, if you want to try another Slicer and you are ok with complexity, you should try SuperSlicer. It's like tuning a race car! You have on your hands every option available in the Slicer code; it was too much for me, lol!

Btw, I got inspiration of my toolhead from SneakyTreeSnake's design, but I did not like the cooling pipe's performance, so I created my own "aka Rabbit Hole"! Eventually, I will upload the design but will only work with the hardware I have.

Very soon, I will put up on Printables my CPAP blower setup, which will work with any toolhead on any Voron 2.4.

PRUSASlicer-Voron24-350_config.ini 11.7 kB · 0 downloads ORCA-Voron 2.4 350 0.4 nozzle - Texter.orca_printer 5.27 kB · 1 download

Thanks. 

I'll probably stick with Orca. I find it confusing when I'm using both printers at once with Orca.

[NikosSprocket]

I put in Printables the Rabbit Hole CPAP Blower System.

 

[TitusADuxass]

3 hours ago, NikosSprocket said:

I put in Printables the Rabbit Hole CPAP Blower System.

Wow!! That's some beast you're developing there.

I'll print it as soon as my Vz330 is back up and running.

[NikosSprocket]

Using PLA+:

That's an awesome bridge test! From needitmakeit

I can cannot believe it's possible with melted plastic! 

Edited July 25, 2025 by NikosSprocket

[NikosSprocket]

...but in a real life printing having more complex objects, the gravity defining previous test is just .... nice!

Below is only the very top of an object that's has similar bridging, but then there is more above it. As pointed by the arrow, there are a couple of lines drooping from the bridge. I tried the same changing fan speeds, print speed during bridging, but I always got one or two lines drooping. At the end I just printed it using "Tree Organic" supports and it printed perfectly.

Any thoughts how could still print it without supports?

[mvdveer]

54 minutes ago, NikosSprocket said:

Any thoughts how could still print it without supports?

Have you tried decreasing accelleration settings? 

[NikosSprocket]

1 hour ago, mvdveer said:

Have you tried decreasing accelleration settings? 

No I have not; I was looking while printing, and it seems it was at constant acceleration during the long bridge line. I have the bridge speeds external @ 70mm/sec and internals @ 25 mm/sec.

[mvdveer]

2 minutes ago, NikosSprocket said:

No I have not; I was looking while printing, and it seems it was at constant acceleration during the long bridge line. I have the bridge speeds external @ 70mm/sec and internals @ 25 mm/sec.

Those are speed, the bridge acceleration settings are below this (Mine is set at 50% i.e 2500mm/s2. Just a thought as it seems you have tried everything else.

[atrushing]

6 hours ago, NikosSprocket said:

Any thoughts how could still print it without supports?

I would suggest adding in simple manual supports using the design that the Voron team uses in the [a]_mini12864_case_front_insert.stl piece.

The supports are just 0.8mm wide at the top and 0.2mm shorter than the bottom of the bridge you are supporting. If you have a link to the .stl file you are printing it would only take a few minutes to add them in Blender.

[NikosSprocket]

17 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Those are speed, the bridge acceleration settings are below this (Mine is set at 50% i.e 2500mm/s2. Just a thought as it seems you have tried everything else.

Thank you! I did not include the acceleration values as I do not think acceleration will matter in the middle of a long straight part. Anyway, I will give it a try as we all know with melting plastic magic exists! My present values are below. That does not reflect the new Bridge value to 2,500 mm/s2.

[NikosSprocket]

13 hours ago, atrushing said:

I would suggest adding in simple manual supports using the design that the Voron team uses in the [a]_mini12864_case_front_insert.stl piece.

The supports are just 0.8mm wide at the top and 0.2mm shorter than the bottom of the bridge you are supporting. If you have a link to the .stl file you are printing it would only take a few minutes to add them in Blender.

Thank you! You absolutely correct! That will be the best way to create "manufacturable" parts as you take the Slicer equation out of the picture. Most of the designs are only for a few or just one print only so I let the Slicer do the job for me; lazy!

[NikosSprocket]

Nozzle LEDs are installed. I am working to improve wire routing and modify back cover design to accommodate the 3DO DSP PCB.

Now I am waiting for the 3DO camera to become available again to finish the nozzle camera part.

[mvdveer]

Looking good!

[NikosSprocket]

8 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Looking good!

Thank you @mvdveer!

[NikosSprocket]

Added some encloser RGBW LEDs from Blamm. Got them from KB3D

Very nice but also too much light everywhere so I created a Shade (available at Printables) for them:

Edited August 6, 2025 by NikosSprocket

[NikosSprocket]

.... and new latches: Parametric Panel Latch for 2020 extrusions and Voron using Steel Spring Wire

[NikosSprocket]

Getting ready to swap the Pi-4 with a Pi-5 (4GB RAM) and NVMe HAT+ (500GB!!!!!)

Already preloaded Mainsail OS, KlipperScreen, printer_data etc. Waiting for the FPC display cable, as the Pi 5 uses 15 Pin connector for Displays/Cameras instead of the 22 Pin for Pi 4. Btw a different cable is required for Pi cameras, as the 15 pin display cable will not work with a camera.

Hmmm, why Raspberry change it?

That's all I am going to say; I am going quite on this 

Anyway, the boot time and loading Mainsail is incredibly faster than with a SD card. The NVMe and 500GB will be useful now having cameras on the printer and capturing some timelapse movies!

I used: 

• Raspberry Pi 5 4GB. The 4GB version is on-sale now on Amazon and I believe nobody needs more than that for a Mainsale/Klipper printer, without any AI engines.
• GeeekPi P33 M.2 NVME M-Key PoE+ Hat
• Kingston NV3 500GB M.2 2280 NVMe
• 2Pcs DSI FPC for Pi 5, 300mm 22Pin to 15Pin for DSI Display Screens

UPDATED: FPC cable from 200 to 300 mm length.

Edited August 31, 2025 by NikosSprocket

[NikosSprocket]

Miscalculation; 200mm FPC cable is not long enough for the Pi5 as the Display/Camera connectors have moved almost in the middle of the board compared to the Pi 4B.

Also, I do not have 2.5 mm longer screws/bolts to attach it to the rail, as the Hat uses the spacers now with screws on the bottom.........

..... Rabbit Hole or more likely a 4-lane tunnel.....

[NikosSprocket]

Finally I have the nozzle camera setup.

I need to adjust the nozzle LEDs power as there is too much light and blurs  the image.

Btw, I did not convert my Voron to a plotter ; I am using the Mellow instruction printout for focusing the lens.