Voron 0.1 Build Diary after mostly done

[ChicagoKeri]

Well, better late than never...

My Voron 0.1, s/n V0.1736 is actually together and running but is still a work in progress.

Here's some highlights over the last month or so:

1- April 2022 - Decided on Voron 0.1, started printing parts in Black and Red ASA, started research on obtaining parts. Acquired a Raspberry Pi 3a.

2-  Early May 2022 - Self-sourced most of the parts.  LDO motor kit, a frame kit in black, Fastener kit, Bed, Bed heater, thermal fuse, Panels kits, fans for hotend and parts cooling, a Power Supply, an IEC connector thing, an LDO linear rail kit, 20T pulleys and a whole lot of miscellaneous stuff I already had.

3- Mid May 2022 - Committed frame construction, found out my Motor kit was incorrect (for V0) and sent it back,  Acquired an SKR Pico.  Figured out the 3007 fan would not work with my spare Mosquito hotend in the MiniAfterburner, so ordered a "Red Lizard"  and re-printed the MiniAfterburner in Light Blue ABS.  Set about re-printing many parts in Black ABS and Light Blue ABS.

4- Mid May 2022 - The correct Motor Kit for Voron 0.1 showed up.  Mostly finished the build.   Wiring and connectors are the easy part for me. Getting the stupid Extruder shaft ground down (<3mm) and   getting the MiniAB to turn freely was a pain.

5- Late May 2022 - Installed Klipper on the SKR Pico.  Difficult and not something I'm good at, but got it flashed.  Configuring Klipper on the Pi 3a - OUCH!  This is something I'm really NOT good at.  Doesn't anyone have a convenient working configuration I can just download?    Finally, after much brain damage, I adapted the template  file from BTT for the Pico configured with settings inspired by the Voron 0.1 settings for the SKR Mini .  After many tries, Klipper stopped complaining about my config file and started up and make a first print.   Also obtained, programmed and installed a mini display thing..... and subsequently had to configure it in Klipper also!

6- Early June 2022 - Got a Voron Serial number! Yippie!  Also decided I can't stand the mini display, so acquired a 5" Pi touchscreen. Installed KlipperScreen which is way better.   Print quality is not very good.  Found loose bolts all over, especially at the MiniAfterburner, and particularly at the mount, where the 2mm bolts had loosened up considerably.  Acquired a better BMG gear shaft that the one that came in the fastener kit, which improved MiniAB operation a lot.. Ordered a metal MiniAfterburner mount.

7- mid June 2022 - On vacation!  installed Metal mount for MiniAB - much higher rigidity noticed and better operation of the MiniAB. Alas, not much better printing. Acquired a Kirigami bed mount. Printed up parts for a NeverMore internal air de-stinkifier thing  Got a Neopixel light strip, printed mounts for it and some Handles too. Noted the Pi 3a was nearly maxing out its 256mb memory, put in a Pi 3b instead which at least seems to boot a bit quicker and has memory use at 25%.

8-  Late June 2022 - This week.  Acquired a Bondtech LGX Lite and printed up the parts for use with the Mosquito.  Am very impressed with the LGX.  Noted printing quality has gotten worse, found all of the bolts for the stock bed carriage had loosened. Installed the Kirigami, which thankfully has all of the bolts accessible for tightening, and the printing improved back to where it was.  Today, I installed the Bondtech / Mosquito and very much like its operation though print quality is still not great. Also put in the Nevermore while I had it apart.

 

Whew!  This is quite the project, and the print quality is not yet there.  But I have learnt a lot of stuff, especially configuration stuff, that I previously didn't know how to do.

If I can get the V0.1 to print well, the high speed and fully enclosed build area should be useful.

It gives me a lot more appreciation for the guys at Prusa, to have gotten them to work a well as they do.  

 

Edited June 26, 2022 by ChicagoKeri
Typo

[smirk]

Daft question, how did you hook the 5v 3007 hotend fan up to the PICO? As far as I can tell the fans are not voltage selectable on the PICO (might be wrong as I don't have one).

[ChicagoKeri]

2 hours ago, smirk said:

Daft question, how did you hook the 5v 3007 hotend fan up to the PICO? As far as I can tell the fans are not voltage selectable on the PICO (might be wrong as I don't have one).

That's a great question!

It seems that the Pico, like many other boards, Pulse Width Modulates only the Negative (-) fan terminal.  The fan header, of course, has full system voltage on the Positive (+) terminal, in this case, 24v.  

The Pico or the fan for that matter doesn't care if you obtain Positive (+) voltage for the fan elsewhere on the board and it doesn't have to be full system voltage.  

It so happens the Endstop connectors have three terminals, (Negative -) (input) and (+5v) and the V0.1 only uses the (-) and (input), leaving the 5v pin open.

So, when I was wiring up the Endstops, I merely inserted the 5v fan positive wire into the unused terminal of the X end stop connector though the Y or Z endstop would have worked equally well.   You could also grab +5v from the Neopixel or BLTouch connectors, or maybe the USB Power Jumper, though the connector might fall off of the jumper pin.

 

[ChicagoKeri]

It's been awhile and several iterations to my V0.1

Although I very much like the LGX Lite, especially the 3-position filament tension lever, the V0.1 just wasn't printing up to the standard of my Prusa Mk3s.  

 As the Mosquito has a tendency to have the heater element fail, I put the Red Lizard back in with no appreciable change in print quality when the most recent heater failed.

Replacing all 24 idlers from the generic Hardware kit and the generic 20T A/B pulleys improved matters somewhat.  A Prusa belt tension gauge was a big help in setting the A/B belts.  But, still, this should be capable of besting the Prusa.

So, I wagered a bit more money and time on an Orbiter 2.0, a Stealthburner Mini and an accelerometer kit.

The Orbiter 2.0 mounted on a Stealthburner Mini seems to be a nice combination.  The 4010 part cooling blowers are much easier to install.   A post-install Voron Cube came out the best yet for the V0.1, but still not up to the Prusa-printed one.  The Orbiter comes with a nice mini-manual that details recommended  Klipper settings.

The Stealthburner Neopixel looks cool, but it appears to be rather intensive to get them to light up automatically when, say, it is warming up, homing or printing.

So I just spent most of a day getting the accelerometer to work and figuring out how to get the output files off of the Pi and onto my Mac with Terminal. 

Setting the acceleration to the suggested level gave terrible results, so I put it back down to 3400, which gives OK results.

 

Can anyone interpret these graphs?

[mvdveer]

These are for measuring resonance on the X and Y- axis and the values need to be entered into Klipper. (Eliminating ringing in the prints)

Depending on how the accelerometer was mounted that produced the above graphs, i.e X in X direction and y in Y direction. (not X in Y and Y in X) then you values would be:

Resonance compensation of 72.5 in x  and 42 in y

Thus in printer.cfg add:

[input_shaper]

shaper_freq_x: 72.5 

shaper_type_x: mxv

shaper_freq_y: 42

shaper_type_y: 2hump_ei

[printer]

max_accel: 3400                     # this is the speed you tested at

 

Maybe this will explain it a bit better:

https://www.klipper3d.org/Measuring_Resonances.html

 

 

[Wick]

3 hours ago, mvdveer said:

These are for measuring resonance on the X and Y- axis and the values need to be entered into Klipper. (Eliminating ringing in the prints)

Depending on how the accelerometer was mounted that produced the above graphs, i.e X in X direction and y in Y direction. (not X in Y and Y in X) then you values would be:

Resonance compensation of 72.5 in x  and 42 in y

Thus in printer.cfg add:

[input_shaper]

shaper_freq_x: 72.5 

shaper_type_x: mxv

shaper_freq_y: 42

shaper_type_y: 2hump_ei

[printer]

max_accel: 3400                     # this is the speed you tested at

 

hmm, from the Graphs I see different Values for X and Y (X: mzv 75.4, Y: 2hump_ei 77.8) ??

[ChicagoKeri]

On 1/3/2023 at 2:38 AM, Wick said:

hmm, from the Graphs I see different Values for X and Y (X: mzv 75.4, Y: 2hump_ei 77.8) ??

That is probably to be expected, as an X axis move moves only the X Carriage and Extruder assembly, while a Y axis move moves not just the X Carriage and Extruder but also the entire Gantry which is a  considerably larger amount of mass to be moved.

[ChicagoKeri]

Update on Voron V0.1736:

27 December 2023 -  completed an upgrade from V0.1 to V0.2 that has been underway for some time.

Also:

1- Went to a V0.2 CNC metal X Carriage Mount.  

2- went from the Stealthburner Mini / Orbiter2 / Red Lizard extruder assembly to a V0.2 extruder modified for Orbiter2

3- replaced the Red Lizard hotend which has been working great with a Dragon removed from Voron 2.4

4- replaced the Orbiter2 with a Galileo2 extruder, which shares mounting dimensions

5- replaced the faltering Pi3 with a Pi4, which has stopped the low voltage errors, and reinstalled Klipper from Buster to Bullseye variant

6- installed a U2C CANbus adaptor and an EBB36 CANbus toolhead board because I really hate fishing wires through the whole printer a lot!

I very much like the bottom lid and skirting of V0.2 rather than the open V0.1.  Also, the Z homing seems better with the limit switch at the bottom. The Extrusion Lid is uglier but way stronger and better than the stylish V0.1 Lid.   The EBB36 has a convenient built-in accelerometer, as well as vastly simplified wiring. It seems that I had to drop the sensitivity rather a lot to get the sensorless homing to work, but work it does.

Hilariously, the Aluminum-Clad plastic panels I use cause the Pi's WiFi to lose reception with the back covers installed.  Lowering the bottom back cover 8mm or so leaves a gap big enough to restore reception.

The initial setup and CAN installation was way easier than last time!  Initial tests give an Orca Cube nearly as good as the one printed just before disassembly, with the Cube's screw-in bottom being a bit too snug of a fit, but yet the sides look cleaner.... some tuning will of course be needed. Also, Maybe I'll put a Revo Voron in it sometime, which will be way easier with the CANbus breakout board....