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Bigtreetech Scylla V1 firmware installation.


Stevo

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2 minutes ago, real1st said:

Very cool.  Im not that concerned about it right now.  I have no issues doing the z.. but how do you make sure the x and y are not affected? 

in what way?

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2 minutes ago, Stevo said:

in what way?

Well so just say you have a piece that requires 3 different bits..

You do the first one, you pull that one out.. you put a different one in, you redo the z manually?  how do you ensure the x/y of where it is.. remains in proper position?  sorry if this is dumb questions, I am new to this.. 🙂

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As I set the initial work XYZ 0 in the centre of the workpiece the spindle can always be sent back to this initial position.

I just remove the first tool fit the new tool and re zero the z axis at the initial position.

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11 minutes ago, real1st said:

Well so just say you have a piece that requires 3 different bits..

You do the first one, you pull that one out.. you put a different one in, you redo the z manually?  how do you ensure the x/y of where it is.. remains in proper position?  sorry if this is dumb questions, I am new to this.. 🙂

There is never a dumb question so never apologise for that 🤔

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3 hours ago, Stevo said:

As I set the initial work XYZ 0 in the centre of the workpiece the spindle can always be sent back to this initial position.

I just remove the first tool fit the new tool and re zero the z axis at the initial position.

I see, I am curious about one button on the dashboard.. 

 

What does this do?  Sets all three to 0,0,0?

 

How do we use this?  I usually just set the z.. then thats it.. should I be setting x and y too?  how will that affect my cam/gcode?

 

image.png.32e0cd67f402d16fb6f89a33632488d9.png

Edited by real1st
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1 hour ago, Stevo said:

Yes exactly that, it’s your workpiece datum’s ? 

Once set you can return back to the same position over and over 

So just say I use that,  I position a piece of wood on my bed.  I put the bit to the bottom left corner, and set the x,y,z to the bottom left corner.  How does that affect my gcode I am running?

 

I am thinking in my cam software, right now I am using Easel, which is not great.  I want to setup fusion but I am not knowledable on it.

 

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So the software ( Vectric Aspire ) I use asks firstly asks for the dimensions of workpiece. Let’s say a nice bit of oak 300x300 and 30mm thick.

Then again within the software it then asks where will the workpiece datum 0,0,0 be I select top face and the middle in X and Y axis on the material.

So 150mm in from bottom and side edge.

Then I create my design could be text or a relief whatever you like.

Then let it create my cutter path G codes based on cutters selected.

Export the G code cutter path to my desktop.

Now on the router I home the machine first and then move the spindle to somewhere central in the workable area.

i use a rule diagonally across the corners to lightly mark a cross in the centre of the timber.

Fasten down the material making sure its edges are square to frame if the machine.

I use a v carve bit in most of my projects so install and tighten then jog the cutter / spindle over this cross and whilst lowering the cutter making sure to zone in on the cross on the timber.

In the Z axis use a feeler gauge between the top of the timber and the tip of the cutter till I just can’t move the feeler freely. (0.15mm)

Once there set this as your “ SET WORK XYZ “ on your control screen. This datum now tallies up with what I selected originally in the software.

Upload your g code and press start and away you go that’s it.

Hope this helps I’m sure that there are many ways in which to do this and to be honest it’s the way I have always done it without any issues.

 

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On 6/15/2025 at 1:48 AM, Stevo said:

So the software ( Vectric Aspire ) I use asks firstly asks for the dimensions of workpiece. Let’s say a nice bit of oak 300x300 and 30mm thick.

Then again within the software it then asks where will the workpiece datum 0,0,0 be I select top face and the middle in X and Y axis on the material.

So 150mm in from bottom and side edge.

Then I create my design could be text or a relief whatever you like.

Then let it create my cutter path G codes based on cutters selected.

Export the G code cutter path to my desktop.

Now on the router I home the machine first and then move the spindle to somewhere central in the workable area.

i use a rule diagonally across the corners to lightly mark a cross in the centre of the timber.

Fasten down the material making sure its edges are square to frame if the machine.

I use a v carve bit in most of my projects so install and tighten then jog the cutter / spindle over this cross and whilst lowering the cutter making sure to zone in on the cross on the timber.

In the Z axis use a feeler gauge between the top of the timber and the tip of the cutter till I just can’t move the feeler freely. (0.15mm)

Once there set this as your “ SET WORK XYZ “ on your control screen. This datum now tallies up with what I selected originally in the software.

Upload your g code and press start and away you go that’s it.

Hope this helps I’m sure that there are many ways in which to do this and to be honest it’s the way I have always done it without any issues.

Very good.  I did that, it is even easier now!  

Just doing my electronics, hooking up 2 40mm fans (24v).  Did you hook up fans?  Did you have to put specific gcode for it?  

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3 minutes ago, PFarm said:

If you connect your fans to the Aux terminals and supply 24V to V-Mos. You can control them in Fan.g

Screenshot2025-06-22at12_43_30PM.png.27204264f080de365e2210432c523f36.png

Screenshot2025-06-22at12_47_01PM.png.3256b45b063bc9da65422cf9b062a5e0.png

Okay, so I need to connect the fan/s to the AUX0 and AUX1, then I need to provide 24v to the VMOS, then use the code to activate them.

 

I just need to add for AXU1 so PA_5 in addition to what you showed me.

 

Right?

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18 minutes ago, PFarm said:

Correct, M106 turns on the fan, and M107 turns off the fan.

Hey this may be a stupid question but want to be cautious.. I currently use a carbide router/makita router..  It is 110v (directly plugged into the wall).

If I wanted to run the power to my board, would that be possible?  or would it need a ssr or something?

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13 minutes ago, real1st said:

Hey this may be a stupid question but want to be cautious.. I currently use a carbide router/makita router..  It is 110v (directly plugged into the wall).

If I wanted to run the power to my board, would that be possible?  or would it need a ssr or something?

Yes, I'd prefer a contactor over an SSR since SSRs fail on 😱. You would wire the ground to the contactor coil in series with the onboard relay (PD-5).  M950 J1 "PD-5" in user config. M80 P"PD-5" is a command to turn on the relay. PD-5 is a normally open contact.

 

Screenshot 2025-06-22 at 1.28.23 PM.png

 

Screenshot2025-06-22at1_30_46PM.thumb.png.3bace2bda5eec7f1f996cf0d8ed6039c.png

Edited by PFarm
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4 minutes ago, PFarm said:

Yes, I'd prefer a contactor over an SSR since SSRs fail on 😱. You would wire the ground to the contactor coil in series with the onboard relay (PD-5).  M950 J1 "PD-5" in user config. M80 P"PD-5" is a command to turn on the relay. PD-5 is a normally open contact.

Screenshot2025-06-22at12_43_30PM.png.3d4ad38328662800e7047538e2fccecc.png

Screenshot doesnt work.  Thanks for the info.

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8 minutes ago, PFarm said:

Most likely because I was editing the post.

Got a recommendation for a type of contactor?  Ive used ssrs before, rather be safe and not have a ssr fail ON.  Sounds like a disaster if it does.. I also just put an emergency stop on my machine, figured why not.

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1 minute ago, PFarm said:

Something like this link. Just double-check the amperage rating on your router.

51MGf9sWMuL._SL1200_.thumb.jpg.0f768c7f89e841543314db66f4cc0db7.jpg

That looks pretty straightforward.  Will that connect to the steel bracket you use for your board?  I use the this for mine:  image.png.f5a47afdc5cb649d18e8e9f7c2074bb4.png

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Yes, the listing states that it mounts on a DIN Rail. 👍 You pull the little tab on the bottom, and it clips to the Din rail.

 

Edited by PFarm
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7 hours ago, PFarm said:

Yes, the listing states that it mounts on a DIN Rail. 👍 You pull the little tab on the bottom, and it clips to the Din rail.

So I am looking to add a xyz probe, like the one you mentioned.  If I use this, do I need the independent Z as well?  I have a z endstop for max height, you mentioned BOTH.  

 

image.png.96362238f89afe55a7794eca810a753e.png

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On 6/1/2025 at 8:15 PM, PFarm said:

I use these two, they are cheaper to purchase than the ones you posted:

617Dvae6NdL._AC_SL1500_.thumb.jpg.7a29a44fb624715fac585d7a919d81a1.jpg

61M7I01b7fL._AC_SL1500_.thumb.jpg.302633d2db5fecccf112adf1d5e7c950.jpg

But the ones you posted will work as well. Ensure that you set the correct voltage jumper for both probes.

So I have a question for you.  You have both, but the orange one is just z.  But the other does x y and z.  Why do you need both?

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The orange one is the toolsetter, while the touch probe replaces the Datum probing. Milo uses Millennium OS, which has been written to work with RRF.  If you like to read through the documentation, especially the probe and tool change section.

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