V2.4-Aire HEPA/Charcoal Filter

[VoronManiac]

Hi - I'm looking for beta tester feedback.  Been tweaking  the design for over a year now and finally got around to finishing the docs.

https://github.com/VoronManiac/V2.4-Aire/blob/main/README.md
 

Originally had an under bed Nevermore Duo installed, but it did not have the HEPA filter and made it hard to do under bed chamber preheaters. 

Dirty filter after 4 months of printing vs Clean filter.

 

 

Adding more charcoal is not a design limitation.  Back pressure decreases and air flow increases slightly if the length of the cartridge were to be increased.  


 

 

[Gurgi]

Hi, that looks nice. Good Projekt. I bought a used Voron and see, that the acrylic sidewalls have a "coating" that can not be removed with normal cleaning. I think it was something that comes from the molten Filament ( ABS ) and sit on the parts. It would be great, if we can reduce it with your Filter. 

[mafe72]

Greetings! I'm in the final stages of completing my first Voron Switchwire. I've been considering a Nevermore V6 for it, once I finish the enclosure. However, I still need to find a suitable location for mounting it. Your project seems like a great alternative since it sits flat, but I'm unsure if I have enough space to mount it.

I will print your filter and let you know how it goes.

Thanks for your valuable contribution to the community!

[VoronManiac]

Hey Guys.  I've had some feedback from folks on the Discord.  Positive so far and no major reported issues. Based on some great feedback I have prototyped some tweaks that plan to roll out at some point; but the current git is very viable.

Let me know of any issues and suggestions. And post build pics.

@Gurgi I've seen the same coating on the sides.  The Aire does help, but does not eliminate completely.  Did you try cleaning with Windex or  IPA? be careful since IPA does attack ABS.

@mafe72 Let me know if you find a good spot on the Switchwire.

[NikosSprocket]

It looks brilliant @VoronManiac!

I have been using the Nevermore filter on both V2.4r2s, and it definitely works as when the active charcoal gets less affective I can start "smelling" ABS when I open the doors.

I like your design better as it uses the HEPA filters and a lot more volume than the thin Nevermore under the bed.

The only question I have is how do you print the carbon box?

I was sectioning it in F360 and I could not see how it prints internally?

• Print it on the XY plane the "roof" has no support.
• Print it on the XZ plane, the final air vent does not have any support?

 

Anyway, awesome design!

Nikos

[VoronManiac]

Hi @NikosSprocket print number/logo side down.  Parts are already correctly oriented to just drop on the bed.  The roof is done as a bridge.  You can also split the STL for multi color print to emboss the text.  I used a 0.1mm z-lift on retract, but unclear if it is needed.  If filament is dry, there shouldn't really be any stringing on the grid pattern and it should come out very clean.  Use 0.2mm layer height for all layers.

It takes a few minutes after the print completes to fully clean out the residuals in the chamber.  The fan macros are set up to turn off when the extruder & bed drop below 90C which provides enough delay.

Layer before bridge

 

Next layer up is Bridging layer.  I just used the default orientation of 45 deg.

Edited February 26 by VoronManiac

[NikosSprocket]

Thanks!

That sounds good. I will print a set with ASA and let you know.

Anyway, great design. I am debating on replacing the JST power connector with a Pogo one.

[Repman]

Thanks! Really a nice looking design! I will print one.

From my point of view the biggest advantage is the position in the printer. Now you have no trouble with kinematic bed mounting.

... And of cource the HEPA filtration!

Edited February 27 by Repman

[VoronManiac]

@NikosSprocket Pogo is a isn't a bad idea.  Folks on the discord also suggested.  But note that after installation, the HEPA can be serviced by just popping off the grid cover, so it is not like there would be any need to remove the main base. The JST connector can be removed by wedging it with tweezers.  Slide the tweezers between the connector and the main body.  And it is a dual BB blower so it should last a very long time.

@Repman Thanks.  Post some pics when you print it.  It also frees up the under bed to add some serious chamber heat fans.

 

 

[NikosSprocket]

@VoronManiac Pogo is not necessary, but I got a bag of them for another project, and I am looking for ways to use them . As for the fans, I have fans running for 3+ years without any bearings issues and I had fans fail in 1 month! QA for these fans is ....

@Repman Do you mean adding active heaters or just fans to recirculate existing heated cabinet air? If so, the 2x V2.4-Aire systems are doing it. Anyway, too much air flow is not great either, as it can produce uneven part cooling and eventually part warping; or not

Cheers!

[Repman]

10 hours ago, NikosSprocket said:

@VoronManiac Pogo is not necessary, but I got a bag of them for another project, and I am looking for ways to use them . As for the fans, I have fans running for 3+ years without any bearings issues and I had fans fail in 1 month! QA for these fans is ....

@Repman Do you mean adding active heaters or just fans to recirculate existing heated cabinet air? If so, the 2x V2.4-Aire systems are doing it. Anyway, too much air flow is not great either, as it can produce uneven part cooling and eventually part warping; or not

Cheers!

I want to use a kinematic bed monting like the mandala rose works kit (https://mandalaroseworks.com/products/matched-height-kinematic-kit?_pos=1&_sid=71dac3460&_ss=r) and this uses space under the bed. So no standard nevermore air filter under the bed...

[NikosSprocket]

14 hours ago, Repman said:

I want to use a kinematic bed monting like the mandala rose works kit (https://mandalaroseworks.com/products/matched-height-kinematic-kit?_pos=1&_sid=71dac3460&_ss=r) and this uses space under the bed. So no standard nevermore air filter under the bed...

I see what you mean about losing the space under the bed. Nevermore will not work, and I see the pictures they have with just fans installed underneath the bed. I believe the 2 side fans of the V2.4-Aire will provide similar or better air circulation than a Nevermore.

 

[VoronManiac]

@NikosSprocket I plan to add some serious blowers for both above and below the bed for initial chamber heating, wanting to keep the bed power at 100% in a PID until the chamber hits initial target temp.  

I though your post in the ASA warping thread to use the hot end thermistor was very cleaver.  That certainly works for a cold start. ". I always pre-heat the chamber to ~60 deg. C before start printing. I do not have a separate thermistor for the chamber temperature; I just use the hotend thermistor."

"I read the temperature from the Mainsail page" - I'll bet you could set up a target chamber temp to automatically start after you hit chamber temp.  I use this macro with an independent temperature sensor.  Set point is fed in from the slicer filament settings:

[gcode_macro M191]
gcode:
   {% set S = params.S | default(0) | float %}
   M118 Waiting for chamber heating...
   TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR="temperature_sensor Chamber" MINIMUM={S}

 

[NikosSprocket]

UPDATED: 03-02-25

Thank you!

I used to have an external temp. an ASAIR AM2302 sensor installed in the back, but 2 years ago Klipper had some comm. issues and timeouts with similar devices, and when the timeout occurred it will halt the print job! So I pulled it off.

Since then, my crude method worked. Btw now that I have the BTT EBB CAN board on the head, it also reports its temperature

Quote

UPDATE: The EBB NTC cannot be used for cabinet temperature. As can be seen below, both the bed and extruder thermistors reporting around 19 deg. Celsius and the EBB CAN board is much higher; I guess these readings should be expected as ICs get warmer even when idle, like MCU. I verified the room temperature to be around 19 deg. C.

Ellis has some great macros.
 

Edited March 2 by NikosSprocket

[BrentDW]

On 2/23/2025 at 3:30 PM, VoronManiac said:

Hey Guys.  I've had some feedback from folks on the Discord.  Positive so far and no major reported issues. Based on some great feedback I have prototyped some tweaks that plan to roll out at some point; but the current git is very viable.

Let me know of any issues and suggestions. And post build pics.

@Gurgi I've seen the same coating on the sides.  The Aire does help, but does not eliminate completely.  Did you try cleaning with Windex or  IPA? be careful since IPA does attack ABS.

@mafe72 Let me know if you find a good spot on the Switchwire.

I"m looking at the Aire now.  How do I print the carbon filter boxes without supports?  How do I orient them?  

[VoronManiac]

On 3/4/2025 at 7:53 PM, BrentDW said:

I"m looking at the Aire now.  How do I print the carbon filter boxes without supports?  How do I orient them?  

@BrentDW The carbon filter boxes print without supports.  They should load into the slicer in the correct orientation with the Voron Logo face down.  See previous reply & pics from Feb 26. The bridges are fairly short and there more than enough layers covering the bridges to re-planarize before the top layer. 

 

 

[Repman]

Just on the way to print the carbon filters...

One question: You wrote that the "stl-file is split into four subobjects for accent colorization". I did that and assigned the accent color to the bottom block (Voron logo with CF-95). If I would do so for the side writings I had to change the filament every second layer. Or do I miss something? (I don´t have an automatic filament changer and print with single-extruder-multi-color).

 

[NikosSprocket]

Last night printed the "Carbon-Box" with ASA and it looks great!

Honestly, I thought will be a tone of stringing, bridge overhangs but nothing!

I would never have thought you can print a complete box with an FDM printer and the ceiling look good. What helped the short distance between the grill walls?

Nicely done @VoronManiac!

 

PS. I did not use the STLs. I used the STEP files and then created gcode files via PRUSASlicer. I do not print multicolor, so I removed all the color layers/objects.

[Repman]

Layer High 0.2, the parts came out nearly perfect with my standard ABS (esun ABS+ black and fireenginered).

No significant stringing inside the grid. 

@VoronManiac: Perfect Design! 

[BrentDW]

I made it.  It works great.  Thank you very much.  I have one question.  I would like the Aire to stay on after a print ends to keep clearing the air.  It could be for either a fixed time or until the bed temp declines past a temp threshold.  Can you recommend the best way to put this into Klipper or, perhaps, the print end g code?  I'm new and learning and would greatly appreciate your advice.  

[VoronManiac]

@BrentDW Sure.  At the very end of the git read me:  https://github.com/VoronManiac/V2.4-Aire/blob/main/README.md#fw-setup

Double check which pin/power FET combo you choose.  Mine was PD12.  It is actually when the extruder or bed - set point or actual temp are above 90C

Edited March 11 by VoronManiac

[BrentDW]

Did that already and it works.  But it turns off when the bed goes below 90C.  Any way to keep it on longer?

 

[NikosSprocket]

For that reason, I turn on the Filter fan manually or using the "pre-heat" macro, below.

Manually from Mainsail:

 

[gcode_macro Center_Temp_Probe]
gcode:
  STATUS_READY
  SET_HEATER_TEMPERATURE HEATER=extruder TARGET=0     # Turn off Hotend heater
  M106 S255                                            # Parts Fan ON
  SET_FAN_SPEED FAN=nevermore_filter_fan SPEED=1       # Nevermore Fans ON
  G90
  G1 X150 Y150 Z125 F35000
  G91

 

[Penatr8tor]

On 3/7/2025 at 3:44 AM, Repman said:

Layer High 0.2, the parts came out nearly perfect with my standard ABS (esun ABS+ black and fireenginered).

No significant stringing inside the grid. 

@VoronManiac: Perfect Design! 

Really nice-looking prints @Repman

[NikosSprocket]

Pogo connector: