Abs printing bad

[sleepster217]

Having trouble with my abs printing bad with the temp tower from orca bed temp is 105 starting temp is 270 parts fans at 30 percent trying some with less fans tried more and no fans and still getting trouble the problem is on the bridge of the temp tower prints arr sticking well to the print bed hoping some one might be able to shed a little bit of light as to what might be the problem I broke the prints to help u all see the problem

[Penatr8tor]

270 is way too hot for regular printing. Printing bridges is a balance between speed and cooling, too hot and the line of filament cannot be cooled fast enough to prevent sagging.

I would recommend printing a full temp tower from 270c to 230c then, inspect the print to determine what temp gives you the best bridges. You probably also want to print multiple test towers with different fan speeds. There are 3 fan speed settings that you want to dial in. 1, fan off for the first X layers. 2, nominal fan speed throughout the entire print. 3, overhang & bridging fan speed.

The image below is for PLA but you get the idea.

[sleepster217]

1 hour ago, Penatr8tor said:

270 is way too hot for regular printing. Printing bridges is a balance between speed and cooling, too hot and the line of filament cannot be cooled fast enough to prevent sagging.

I would recommend printing a full temp tower from 270c to 230c then, inspect the print to determine what temp gives you the best bridges. You probably also want to print multiple test towers with different fan speeds. There are 3 fan speed settings that you want to dial in. 1, fan off for the first X layers. 2, nominal fan speed throughout the entire print. 3, overhang & bridging fan speed.

The image below is for PLA but you get the idea.

This is what I am going ro run this time with the temp tower like u said or should I change one of them

Edited September 24 by sleepster217

[Penatr8tor]

@sleepster217

I would change "fan speed for overhangs" to 80%

[sleepster217]

1 minute ago, Penatr8tor said:

@sleepster217

I would change "fan speed for overhangs" to 80%

Ok will do 

 

Is what it was doing with 30 on all

[sleepster217]

[Penatr8tor]

Don't know why you insist on stopping the print before you get to a reasonable temperature but OK...

Your baseline numbers to print ABS effectively would be 260 max 240 min with 30% fan all the time boosting to 80% for bridges and overhangs.

I would redo the temp tower with a range of 260 to 230 

[PFarm]

I know every printer is a little different but here is my print setting for ABS Chamber = 50C, Hotend = 250, heat the bed to 110C but have the bed temp to 105C in the slicer. No fan for the first layer then cooling fan at 50% for the rest of the layers and overhang at 80% as suggested by @Penatr8tor. I get good adhesion on textured plate with no additional additives and no wrapping!

[sleepster217]

Here is a complete tower 30% fans 80% on overhangs hope they give you some insite u can see the lines on the bridge are breaking off when second layer of overhangs comes in 

[sleepster217]

13 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Don't know why you insist on stopping the print before you get to a reasonable temperature but OK...

I would redo the temp tower with a range of 260 to 230 

I can the print as it has been all the way through just gets worse and don't want to keep wasting too much time and fillament not sure ifnit is normal but takes 55 min apparently to do the 260 to 230 temp tower

 

I do appreciate everyone's help with my build has been a steep learning  curve and I know that this abs problem will be something stupid and simple just need to find said problem

[Penatr8tor]

Something really screwy is going on with your top layers. Plus you're getting blobs on corners, etc. that you shouldn't be getting.

I had a similar issue come up when I recently upgrade my RatRig to a Rapido 2 UHF hotend. I thought I had a 0.4mm nozzle installed and I had my slicer setup for a 0.4 nozzle as well and when I checked, I found two things...

1, My nozzle was loose

2, I had a 0.6mm nozzle installed

So, I swapped out the nozzle for a 0.4mm and made sure it was at 240c and tightened it to spec with my handy printed torque driver.

Then everything magically fell into place and it started printing beautifully.

Perhaps double checking the nozzle size and tightness might be that dumb thing you overlooked. 

Fingers crossed. 

[claudermilk]

LOL, been there, done that. Printed a file sliced for 0.4 & I forgot I had a 0.6 in the hot end. I couldn't figure out why the printer suddenly was printing for poo until I noticed that.

[Penatr8tor]

17 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

LOL, been there, done that. Printed a file sliced for 0.4 & I forgot I had a 0.6 in the hot end. I couldn't figure out why the printer suddenly was printing for poo until I noticed that.

Hopefully that's his problem and not something else.

For the most part though... if you have everything tight and are using the right nozzle... you should get pretty decent prints right off the bat.

[sleepster217]

So I have not had a look at that yet but I got some better prints I ramped fan up a bit but as the chamber got up is started printing like poo again so going to ramp the fan up some more chamber got to 59 for the first time

[sleepster217]

[sleepster217]

[sleepster217]

[sleepster217]

17 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Hopefully that's his problem and not something else.

For the most part though... if you have everything tight and are using the right nozzle... you should get pretty decent prints right off the bat.

So went back to pla last night as my partner wanted some stuff for her kids and well it printed fine once I got the abs out of the print head seems I don't always get it all out when I change over and it blocks up no full.block just enough that the extruder clicks and flattens the fillament but heat hot end up pull fillament and cut end off and re insert and hold extruder out of the way and push more through by hand and we are off and racing but it seemed to print fine as.in if nozzel was wrong would print like crap or os pla that forgiving

Edited September 27 by sleepster217

[Penatr8tor]

Looking much better!

Looks like 240-245 is a good number.

You might need to slow down bridging

As for switching filaments... you'll need to purge a couple hundred millimeters to clear the heatblock. If you're switching from ABS to PLA... purge at 250c until all the ABS is gone. Obviously, you will print with the PLA at a lower temp, but you need a higher temp to purge out the old ABS.

[sleepster217]

Just put the abs back in the printer and doing the temp tower again starting at 250 down to 230 normal fan at 30 percent and overhangs at 100 percent so far looking good and happy with what is coming out but is printing super slow shoukd I change anything here to help it out see pic

[Penatr8tor]

Maybe set "Full fan speed at layer" to 4. That will slowly ramp up the fan but other than that... give it a try and see.

On the Max and Min fan speed threshold... I would set Max to something like 8 and Min to like 100. The reason why is that setting the max to 30 means that the print speed will literally slow down any layer that takes 30 seconds or less to print.

Below is a temp tower with your settings... It will take over 3 and a half hours to print.

And if we look at the print speed, pretty much everything is being printed at a blazing 10mm/s

And if we look at the layer time... we find that every layer takes at least 30 seconds to print.

 

Now we'll adjust the min/max to 100 and 8 respectively.

Big changes from the 30/30 settings. Average speed is in the 80mm/s range with slowdowns happening where they should for bridges and overhangs.

and just look at the time... 1hr20m. Huge difference, literally 300% speed improvement.

So, spend the time to get to know the preview settings window on the right and explore the various "Color schemes". There is an incredible amount of valuable data that you can reap the benefits of and also save yourself a ton of failed prints and wasted time.

Good luck and happy printing.

[Penatr8tor]

And... If you hate this G-Code window like I do...

Pro Tip: Press "C" on the keyboard to make it go away. 

[blackmonster69]

50 minutes ago, Penatr8tor said:

And... If you hate this G-Code window like I do...

Pro Tip: Press "C" on the keyboard to make it go away. 

You learn something new every day, that window pisses me tf off  

[Penatr8tor]

5 hours ago, blackmonster69 said:

You learn something new every day, that window pisses me tf off  

Yup, I hated that window 5 minutes after they added it. 

[claudermilk]

It's irritating for sure.

My speeds are min 50 and max 100. Ido have my ramp up to full at 4 like @Penatr8tor suggests.