Print looks good… except

[BeerMedic522]

I have my V2.4 almost tuned to an acceptable level. Except for when it prints circles/holes. It looks like some of the lines either don’t adhere or the printer is skipping across the circle. What do I adjust in either the slicer or on the printer to fix this?

[Dirk]

First off, let me say I am glad you got your printer to work. And print quite nice actually. I recall the problems you had with the toolhead boards.

Second, I looked at your other post about the top layer, where there was lots of comments, but like on your BTT board problem, I never got to see a solution

I think this problem you are having, is in line with your previous post where I can see similar problems related to this one.

To get an idea of what problems is seen during printing and how they are named / labeled, I can recommend you this guide, because it has pictures and is explained in normal-peoples-terms.

I think the reason those wires are visible, have to do with a few things at once. When you look at what happens when the circle of plastic is being laid on the previous layer, you will see that it becomes a 'string' of plastic and before it can stick to the bottom, it is pulled away by the nozzle, which is on the other side of the circle.

So if you would want to solve this, you would have to make the plastic more hot, so it melts and does not form a line. Or you would want to blow very hard on it as soon as it is out of the extruder.
So this would mean you would have to make your temperature higher, if the filament allows this. And Cooling more, like 100% during the circle movements would help or even solve the problem.
Finally you could consider going slower, which will give the plastic the time to stick to the layer below, by the time your nozzle is on the other side.

 

 

 

 

 

[claudermilk]

What order are you printing the walls? I wonder if that's trying to print the outer wall first so there's not much for the filament to stick to.

[BeerMedic522]

1 hour ago, claudermilk said:

What order are you printing the walls? I wonder if that's trying to print the outer wall first so there's not much for the filament to stick to.

as a matter of fact I am doing outer first. Saw a couple YT videos stating getting better dimensional accuracy when doing outer walls first. Let me try inner first....

 

[BeerMedic522]

15 hours ago, Dirk said:

First off, let me say I am glad you got your printer to work. And print quite nice actually. I recall the problems you had with the toolhead boards.

Second, I looked at your other post about the top layer, where there was lots of comments, but like on your BTT board problem, I never got to see a solution

 

Firstly, thank you. It's been tedious. 

Secondly, I apologize for not following up after getting some amazing help here and in the Discord, I get busy with the next task and forget .

The BTT 2240 tool boards were found to be defective, replaced by BTT with 2209's. No issues since (except for issues I created ). I did swap out the tool cover with one with holes in it for better cooling for the board, temps were in the 80's, now mid-60's. Not totally happy with the SB as a print head, looking at DragonBurner. Not for speed, but just better print cooling. Not looking at XOL or any of the CPAP ones, no SpeedBenchies for me. 

For the top layer issues, I went through Ellis' guide again and really focused on first layer, extrusion multiplier and pressure advance. Went through a bunch of squares and PA tests, but finally making headway. 

 

[BeerMedic522]

So wall order didn't seem to make a difference. BUT.... fan speed sure did. Went from min 15 max 30 to 25 min to 70 max. Complete gamechanger. And I thought ABS/ASA didn't need that much cooling...

 

 

[Dirk]

22 minutes ago, BeerMedic522 said:

ABS/ASA didn't need that much cooling

That's true when you are printing on a bed-slinger, without enclosure or a heated chamber.

Check out the post where @TitusADuxass was tuning his Rapido 2... he shows there that in his case more cooling (+- 80%) gave better results for that print.

Also an idea to view the orca slicer capabilities in that post, since they have talked you into considering SS

After I saw his post, I experimented with more cooling. I almost exclusively print ABS and I use 100% cooling with SB on overhangs and bridges. Also when the layer time drops below 20 seconds. 

My standard cooling for ABS in my printer is 50% after the 4th layer. 

 

I have found the stealthburner perfect for ABS. But feel free to experiment with different toolheads, extruders, hotends... Just make sure that all things will fit (including the toolhead board) before buying all hardware or printing the parts  

 

And regarding the process of tuning your printer: It is how it becomes your Voron

[claudermilk]

Aha, yes, cooling. When starting out I also found the "ABS needs no cooling" common "wisdom" first. Then I ran across more knowledgeable advice--mainly Ellis--who tell you probably 30% at a minimum. I think I'm at 35-40% to start and bump up like @Dirk for short layer times.

I have always printed the default of inner then outer walls and have always had good dimensional accuracy.

[polygonprint]

I have also found lowering the layer height helps a great deal when printing threads and similar. From 0.2mm down to 0.15mm is enough I find. But saying that, I know that's not always an option.