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Voron 2.4 working


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Well it has been awhile since my last post.  I have been printing like a madman.  This printer has been working great.  I have close to 900 hours on it so far with just over 8 kms of filament through the hot end,  (E3D revo voron hot end)  I just replaced nozzle, I think I put 7.5 km on that first nozzle.  How often is everyone changing nozzles.  I am glad I got all the issues I had building and setting up the software for this printer.  Today I update all the software with no issues.  Had to re-flash ADXL345 which turned out to be no issue.

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While I'm taking advantage of the ease of nozzle swapping, so several nozzles have been used...the Trident is still on my OG 0.4 after 3100 hours & 15.5km of filament through it. I am using primarily PLA and ABS with a bit of TPU and Nylon, so nothing super abrasive. I guess the sparkle ABS would be a bit, but no ill effects so far.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Started having issues with my printer.  I finished doing a 26 hour print which worked great.  I go to repeat the same file and this is when I started having issues.  My start program does a G28 X,Y,Z the goes and does a Quad Gantry then I have it do a G28 Z, this is when the problem occurs,  Z won't stop after trigger, using Tap by the way.  I ended up breaking the SB mount, Checked for broken wires, I did find an iffy one on the tap light sensor, repaired and thought that was my problem.  I get everything back together and same thing happens.  Also Y axis won't zero out if at right front corner, needs to be 1/2 way then Y zeros no problem.  I had the belts of and check to make sure all was free moving, slight tension on the wire chain but nothing to impede Y from Zeroing out.  Printer has about 1,150 hours  so far with a total of 411 jobs done. Up till now Printer has been working really well.  Would upgrading Mainsail cause this issue?  I did 2 or 3, 24+hour prints since upgrade. 

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@madmike46 I also reacted to your other post.

I just looked at your klippy log. It does not show anything out of the ordinary.

The problem you describe here and in your other post, is very typical of the tap printed parts dysfunctioning.

I am saying this because I had the same problem with my printed tap. It is extremely frustrating.

As I said before, I would disassemble everything and re assemble checking for everything.

Tap becomes less rigid after long heated prints. That is why most people here use a CNC tap, which is more rigid.

You could run a resonance test with your ADXL and see if there are extra waves that suggest loosened parts. Post it here, we can look at it.

I can suggest you to get a CNC tap, if you really are attached to TAP. I have made the step to Cartographer and am never going to return to Tap 🙂

 

 

 

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Well I reprinted broken part, checked other parts for stress cracks, I found nothing else other then the sensor wire that broke on me while handling.  I soldered wire thinking this was the issue.  Put everything back together does a G28 homes X, Y, then X.  Did a quad gantry level does it's thing like it's suppose too.  Go to home Z and it still does the same thing.  I could not find anything with the printer.cfg file.  Decide to go to an older save printer config file, file was dated April 30th.  Did a few G28's and Quad Gantry leveling and printer now seams to work.  I wonder if something got corrupted in my working printer.cfg file?  I am going to look at the CNC tap parts.  I have only printed PLA  up to this point, I still don't have my sides and top for the printer.

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1 hour ago, madmike46 said:

I wonder if something got corrupted in my working printer.cfg file?

I am glad you have it working.

I thought you had a heated chamber. I think that is a difference. I had exactly the same you are describing. After a long print, it would take a lot of rounds to do a QGL. And it would complain many times about 'trigger before probing'. Tap would simply refuse to slide back at some points. It has all got to slide (rail) and lock (magnets/sensor) perfectly. The heat you also might get with long prints can be a cause of changing parts. 

Anyway, again, I am glad it works, for now. In my case it would come back over and over again.

Hopefully it will be gone forever in your case 🙂 

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Finished that 30 hour print.  I redid input shaper, Z height and redid the bed mesh.  Manually did home on all axis, then Quad gantry level, then Z home with no issues. I printed a few smaller prints and so far all is working like it should.  Back to a 28 hour print.  The first few  Z homes after QGL were a little nerve racking.  First couple of time I never let the nozzle touch the bed, manually over ride it by hand.

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I had more issues this past week, opto tap lost power then broken wires for end stop switches, replace a bunch of wire and printer is now running again.  What wire is everyone using with cable chains?

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PTFE as in the spec. It does wear out after a while and needs to be replaced, though my wire harness lasted about twice as long as it sounds like yours did. When I re-did mine I swapped to the hartk toolhead PCB and LDO breakout board, and just got the pre-made harness. That will make replacement easier later.

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10 hours ago, claudermilk said:

PTFE as in the spec. It does wear out after a while and needs to be replaced, though my wire harness lasted about twice as long as it sounds like yours did. When I re-did mine I swapped to the hartk toolhead PCB and LDO breakout board, and just got the pre-made harness. That will make replacement easier later.

I think I have just over 1500 hours when wires started breaking.  I was more careful to not kink any wires this time, had a couple that were kinked and that's where the breaks were.  If I get another 1,500 hours before my next wire breakage, I'll hopefully have things figured out for can-bus or usb.

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14 hours ago, madmike46 said:

I think I have just over 1500 hours when wires started breaking.  I was more careful to not kink any wires this time, had a couple that were kinked and that's where the breaks were.  If I get another 1,500 hours before my next wire breakage, I'll hopefully have things figured out for can-bus or usb.

Ah, ok. You got about the same life as I did. I think I got about 1500-1800 before one of the extruder motor wires gave up (it's noted in my build thread).

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2 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

nothing is foolproof

Ok... it is not for people that do not know what this means: 302062846-36065239-009c-4195-8e13-a43959acac7b.png.989946e2b1bf26b4f93185b533a5d5a3.png

 

It is modular, and tells you exactly what to do, to reach which result. Concentration? It is almost all copy and paste. Until you reach the result. WITH a checkpoint: Checkpoint not reached? Go back and try again.

How simple can you make a guide? Compare that to the mellow manuals 🙂

Whenever I do not concentrate while working on my printer, it costs me something... That is why I prefer to do it when I am awake and able to concentrate 🙂

Edited by Dirk
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1 hour ago, madmike46 said:

temps started fluctuating

Do a temperature PID tune again. And something like a TEST_SPEED  (with your max speed and max accel) while heating the nozzle, to see if some wild movements provoke the same fluctuations. If it is, a crimp may be loose is my experience.

I doubt the heater/thermistor is the problem. Not much to die there after so few hours, unless you are printing abrasive materials.

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