CARTOGRAPHER announced AUTO-Z

[Dirk]

Couldn't wait to share this with everyone.

A couple of hours ago the maker of Cartographer released a video showing off his Cartographer probe, doing Taps on the bed. (attached)

He also asked for beta testers in the discord channel for a closed public beta, which will start off from 30th of April. I applied for a spot!

As I understood, it will be a firmware and a script update that will add this functionality to ALL Cartographer probes out there (V1 through V4).

 

 

[mvdveer]

Will be interested in your evaluation. Exiting news

[Urshurak776]

I don’t know about exiting news, but definitely exciting news!

[Yezariael]

Beacon3D already announced this functionality some time ago and should publish it in may.

[Dirk]

1 hour ago, Yezariael said:

functionality some time ago

No Not really.

They showed a preview of Bacon Contact. It is meant for putting packages of butter on your printing plate, with a piece of bacon next to it. And touching it with your nozzle.

So nothing about auto z. Neither about an announcement. So you are mistaken. 

[Yezariael]

17 hours ago, Dirk said:

No Not really.

They showed a preview of Bacon Contact. It is meant for putting packages of butter on your printing plate, with a piece of bacon next to it. And touching it with your nozzle.

So nothing about auto z. Neither about an announcement. So you are mistaken. 

Do your homework correct please: https://beacon3d.com/press-release/

[Penatr8tor]

[Yezariael]

 

[xyleth]

Regardless of who did or didn't get there first (and really.  Does everything have to be sportsball these days?) I am super keen for this to hit GA and to try it out.

Getting Z offset right has been the bane of my life recently and the thought of being able to make that go away....yes please!

[sntlewis]

OK lurking about (still waiting for parts to build my 2.4), so I may be missing something.

Seems like I need to have a canbus hub in the toolhead or run another wire (usb/can) back below deck.

Like the overall idea though...

[mhzpower]

49 minutes ago, sntlewis said:

OK lurking about (still waiting for parts to build my 2.4), so I may be missing something.

Seems like I need to have a canbus hub in the toolhead or run another wire (usb/can) back below deck.

Like the overall idea though...

True only for usb tool heads. Any klicky probe could be replaced with the usb or CAN wires.

But with the options for toolhead boards, why not convert to CANbus?

[chrisalbertson]

The technique used is software-only.  So if you have any kind of eddy current bed sensor it could work.  So I expect this kind of thing to be available on all of the eddy current sensors.   Later, at some point I hope to see consolidation where there is only one bed tap software in Klipper that works with any sensor.

I like the way tap sensing of any kind is self-adjusting for different build plate thicknesses.  I notice mine have slightly different thicknesses.    In Theory the technique they use would work even with a rather thick glass plate.   They measure coil impedance while moving closer to the build place and assume that when the impedance stops changing it is because the distance stopped changing because of a collision with the plate. 

[mvdveer]

6 hours ago, sntlewis said:

Seems like I need to have a canbus hub in the toolhead or run another wire (usb/can) back below deck.

Correct. Canbus eliminates the USB running to the electronics bay - not that it is that much of an issue.

[sntlewis]

I haven't seen a way to hook up two canbus cards in the toolhead.  I'm going canbus from the beginning with a CL but would like future options.  I have sb2209 in hand to go on the 2.4..

Unless it is built into the cartographer3d.

Edited May 9 by sntlewis

[Dirk]

31 minutes ago, sntlewis said:

two canbus cards

you dont need that. 

Canbus is quite friendly. you just take a line from can Hi and one from can Lo and hook whatever you want to hook up to it.

no need for another plate. bus. hub.

[mvdveer]

2 hours ago, sntlewis said:

I haven't seen a way to hook up two canbus cards in the toolhead.  I'm going canbus from the beginning with a CL but would like future options.  I have sb2209 in hand to go on the 2.4..

Unless it is built into the cartographer3d.

As @Dirk said, you just splice your cartographer into the existing canH and canL lines (yellow to yellow and white to white

[sntlewis]

Well it helps to "read the docs"  I realize that I can solder a jumper off CanH and CanL but....

SB2209 has a Can port on the SB0000.

So it should be a really easy install for future options...

[chrisalbertson]

2 hours ago, sntlewis said:

I haven't seen a way to hook up two canbus cards in the toolhead.  I'm going canbus from the beginning with a CL but would like future options.  I have sb2209 in hand to go on the 2.4..

Unless it is built into the cartographer3d.

No, CAN bus is a "bus".   In normal use, outside of 3D printing we would have one "master" and possibly 100 other devices all connected to one pair of bus wires.   The proper way to do this is to run H and L from the master to the first device.  Then you extend the H and L wires to the next device and so on.  The devices look like they are are daisy-chained if "CAN in" and CANout" connectors are used but electrically all thedives are wired in parallel.   Every device sees all the data but ignore the date inteded for other devices.  The LAST device will have a terminating resistor.  This is the standard way it is done.

 

But the 3D printer community has found that you can abuse the standard and it still mostly works.  I've seen "splitters" that allow you to connect two printheads at the same time. in a "Y" configuration.   In theory this should not work, but it seems to.

But we are talking about just one print head with two CAN devices.   If the toolhead board is not set up with a connector for a second device then the solution is very easy.  Place two wires in each JSP pin and make a daisy chain cable.   This is common practice with CAN.    Just make sure the 120 Ohm resister is in the device that is nearest the end of the cable.    CAN data cables don't need to carry current and can be as thin as you like.  Size them for physical strength and durability.  And also twist H and L together

 

Being on the end of the run does not mean it takes longer to move the data and it does not change how the host talks to the device.   So either device can be "first", which ever is easy to wire.

 

[chrisalbertson]

6 minutes ago, sntlewis said:

Well it helps to "read the docs"  I realize that I can solder a jumper off CanH and CanL but....

 

 

 

No solder on cables that move, use crimps.   You can crimp two wires on the same pin.

[Dirk]

Sorry.

I don't understand. What are you guys trying to do?

If you want to connect the cartographer to bigtreetech toolheads, there are beautiful schematics on the cartographer site. 

If you want to do it on a fly sht board, look on this forum for several references I made how it's possible. It's a.o. in @mvdveers excellent post where he compares Eddy current probes.

if you want to connect a cars electronics to it follow what @chrisalbertson says.

[therm_virtual0y]

Any word On when the AutoZ option will be released?  

[Dirk]

5 hours ago, therm_virtual0y said:

when

Not yet. There has been an update after the initial beta tests. I hope there will be a public beta soon.

[Dirk]

Here is a video that I also posted in another thread.

The closed beta is not there yet to update everyone with where it is at right now, but here is an experiment we have done with a heated bed and a nozzle, that prints a first layer based on the tap that is made.

Initially you see a voron purge, then a series of 3 taps to make sure it gets a proper z reading (a nozzle wiper would have been ideal in this case ) and then does a line purge and a first layer print. Which looks perfect. (sorry for the bad video quality, <5mb)

 

 

 

[therm_virtual0y]

40 minutes ago, Dirk said:

Here is a video that I also posted in another thread.

The closed beta is not there yet to update everyone with where it is at right now, but here is an experiment we have done with a heated bed and a nozzle, that prints a first layer based on the tap that is made.

Initially you see a voron purge, then a series of 3 taps to make sure it gets a proper z reading (a nozzle wiper would have been ideal in this case ) and then does a line purge and a first layer print. Which looks perfect. (sorry for the bad video quality, <5mb)

Video is broken 

[Dirk]

1 hour ago, therm_virtual0y said:

Video is broken 

works fine on my chrome, firefox, android duck duck go browser and even on Tor.