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TeamFDM.com is an UNOFFICIAL companion site for the DIY Voron 3D printer community. For official docs and final source of truth, visit the Official Voron Discord or the Voron Github
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TeamFDM.com is an UNOFFICIAL companion site for the DIY Voron 3D printer community. For official docs and final source of truth, visit the Official Voron Discord or the Voron Github
Question
Joegeeks
Hello, I also have experienced my CW2 filament slipping on a initial build, which is getting worse. I'm using the CW2 version that was modded for the ECRF with TWO run-out switches.
- Rebuilt 4 times and replaced all geared components and motor. Swapped to thicker hinge pin for the Tension Arm. I'm totally baffled! Is there an issue with MIXING the CLOCK WORK 2 components from DIFFERENT VERSIONS of the CW2 assembly - Is there a change in arm/guide width or length/size with the CW2 for the ERCF and in the Stock CW2 ?
The first indication I had was when doing my initial checks - a Filament Length Run-out test where I would put my thumb lightly on the filament in hole on-top of the CW2 as I ran a length of filament through it. It would run-out EVERY 20-25 mm in a constantly frequency before it would vibrate/slip, leaving me to believe it was the large gear that drives on the smaller motor gear. After replacing the gear with new precision grade gear it actually was a steady slip. 10mm then a 10mm slip.
Tightening my grub screw didn't do anything and I checked and the small screw used to back OFF the tension (mostly used for TPU filament) on the gear arm too.
- I've rebuild the CW2 more than 4 times - I replaced the gear components including a swap to the slightly larger stock Hinge-Pin from the 3mm bolt as the instructions called for (modifying the smaller 3mm hole to file off the material in a manner pushing the gear arm closer to the other gear). I've ruled out my motor after doing a motor swap to a known good motor from my trident and back, plus pulling through the filament with my CW assembly in hand it's an obvious slip and in the lack of gripping force even with the thumb/grub screw over tightened.
The components I'm talking about are the Gear tension Arm assembly (3 piece assembly with the spring and grub screw). I know there is a difference in the Front and Back housings - (they snap together is different so you cant mistake the two versions), but as for the tension assembly I'm not completely sure.
My only other direction is to reprint the stock CW2 assembly on my Trident and see if it happens again.
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