Mini Stealth v2 Is Available

[atrushing]

On 10/13/2025 at 5:30 PM, wiigelec said:

i would like to mount a beacon to the prusa carriage

Unfortunately, the Prusa x-carriage is quite tall and sits very close to the bed when the Mini Stealth is installed. This was the only way to allow the extruder stepper motor to fit over the 8mm steel rods and LM8UU bearings. The only way to add a Beacon probe to the Mini Stealth on a Prusa would be with a UHF hotend as they sit 8.5mm lower than the standard hotends.

There would still be a minor issue if installing with a UHF hotend but the cable connector could be de-soldered and a wire pigtail could be soldered in place.

[wiigelec]

i’m ok with the uhf and low profile beacon

[atrushing]

9 hours ago, wiigelec said:

i’m ok with the uhf and low profile beacon

Here is a new front plate to mount the Beacon onto the Prusa but, even with the UHF, the lower LM8UU bearing is in the 'metal exclusion' zone of the Beacon probe. I don't know if it is possible to tune the Beacon and get it to work so please let me know how this goes for you before I add it to the repo.

It might help using an Igus plastic bushing, at least for the bottom linear bearing, but the 8mm linear rod is still within the exclusion zone.

Prusa_x-carriage_Front_Plate_Beacon.stl

[wiigelec]

thanks i’ll let you know how it works!

Edited October 16, 2025 by wiigelec

[3DCoded]

I thought I read somewhere that Beacon wouldn't work on beds with embedded magnets, like those on Prusa printers. I'm curious to see how this works out.

[atrushing]

22 minutes ago, 3DCoded said:

I thought I read somewhere that Beacon wouldn't work on beds with embedded magnets, like those on Prusa printers. I'm curious to see how this works out.

Good point. I have heard of people removing the magnets and adding a magnetic sheet on top of the bed.

[wiigelec]

On 10/16/2025 at 8:39 AM, 3DCoded said:

I thought I read somewhere that Beacon wouldn't work on beds with embedded magnets, like those on Prusa printers. I'm curious to see how this works out.

it’s for an i3 clone with a magnetic sheet on the bed

[wiigelec]

beacon works!

[atrushing]

I have developed a filament cutter solution that should work with the Mini Stealth. 

It is a remix of the WristWatch BMG extruder and it fits the Bambu replacement blades. I would like to adapt this to a couple other extruders but this was the easiest extruder to start with. I have added the files and a readme to the repo.

[wiigelec]

can the sherpa mini mount for the prusa carriage be rotated 180? otherwise it hits the frame at the top

[atrushing]

5 hours ago, wiigelec said:

can the sherpa mini mount for the prusa carriage be rotated 180? otherwise it hits the frame at the top

I forgot about this complication with the Prusa frame.. Fortunately the Sherpa Mini is symmetrical enough that it can be rotated 180° and still fit the same mounting holes.

It does collide a little with the crop-top shroud but I've added a negative body that can be used to make the needed cutout within the slicer. It has a pair of cylinders to help align the cutout with the shroud. This is best done from the bottom view for better accuracy.

Sherpa_Mini_Reverse_Mount_Shroud_Cutout.stl

[wiigelec]

awesome thanks!

[atomicbleach]

I saw you added support for the K1 Extruder. Any chance you will also add K1C and K2 hotend compatibility in the near future? I have a few K1C hotends that I picked up for sub 30$ laying around that are looking for a good home. For a model to go off this matches up perfectly with the hotend and heat sink. I can confirm as I built my ender 3 microswiss k1c adapter using this model as a reference and it fit perfectly first test print. 

https://www.printables.com/model/1018088-creality-k1k1c-hotend-alternative-clone-assembly-c

Id love to upgrade my current Frankensteined Ender 3 Stealthyswiss Toolhead (microswiss direct drive with stealthburner fan shroud) to a Mini Stealth with a Stealth Protoxtruder 2. 

Edited November 28, 2025 by atomicbleach

[atrushing]

4 hours ago, atomicbleach said:

I saw you added support for the K1 Extruder. Any chance you will also add K1C and K2 hotend compatibility in the near future? I have a few K1C hotends that I picked up for sub 30$ laying around that are looking for a good home. For a model to go off this matches up perfectly with the hotend and heat sink. I can confirm as I built my ender 3 microswiss k1c adapter using this model as a reference and it fit perfectly first test print. 

https://www.printables.com/model/1018088-creality-k1k1c-hotend-alternative-clone-assembly-c

Id love to upgrade my current Frankensteined Ender 3 Stealthyswiss Toolhead (microswiss direct drive with stealthburner fan shroud) to a Mini Stealth with a Stealth Protoxtruder 2. 

I will look into these hotends but so far it looks difficult as they are both quite large. The K1 hotend would have to fit into a UHF shroud and that would still be a tight fit. This shows the collisions if I tried to fit it into a standard shroud.

The K2 is taller than even the Rapido UHF hotend so it would have to fit into my Goliath shrouds.

Right now I am busy trying to develop a WristWatch style extruder that fits the Orbiter 2.x internals and once I get that finished, I will put some more effort into these hotends.

[atomicbleach]

4 hours ago, atrushing said:

I will look into these hotends but so far it looks difficult as they are both quite large. The K1 hotend would have to fit into a UHF shroud and that would still be a tight fit. This shows the collisions if I tried to fit it into a standard shroud.

The K2 is taller than even the Rapido UHF hotend so it would have to fit into my Goliath shrouds.

Right now I am busy trying to develop a WristWatch style extruder that fits the Orbiter 2.x internals and once I get that finished, I will put some more effort into these hotends.

Didn't realize the K1C hotend was large in the scope of things. Yeah looks like the heatsink would need to be changed out, modified, or like you stated used on the taller shroud.

Would this extruder just require the orbiter 2.5 upgrade kit as far as internal parts? I'm debating on going with an extruder that accepts the kgx lite 2.0 gear set as it's got the large inclined toothed filament wheel for extra grip but in practice I'm not sure how well it actually prints compared to others. I've been printing more and more TPU/PEBA these days so I've been going down the rabbit hole of searching for a extruder that can handle a decent volumetric flow of TPU and not be an absolute nightmare to take apart in the case of a tpu spaghetti monster. 

[atrushing]

1 hour ago, atomicbleach said:

Would this extruder just require the orbiter 2.5 upgrade kit as far as internal parts?

This is the goal. I have ordered the upgrade kit so I can build and test the extruder when it's ready. I haven't printed much TPU but the Orbiter 1.5 and 2.0 have worked fine for me so far.

[HolyFrank]

 

Hello,

After several attempts at hardware and software configuration, I've isolated my Eddy-Ng probe problem, which is caused by an incorrect nozzle height adjustment relative to the probe.

When I was using the original BTT firmware, it was a bit more forgiving, as the BTT wiki recommends a probe height of 2 to 3mm. With the supplied USB cable, I was unable to raise the Eddy probe high enough. The best I managed was crimping my own wires, but over time, the JST connectors wore down because the top of the probe was pressed against the "Switchwire_x-carriages_frames_Omron_Probe_MGN12.stl" file. Since I ended up with a non-functional printer, I added M3 washers to the top of a Voron V6 hotend. This meant I had to lower/extend the top of the hotend to the nozzle tip.

The parts used are:

- Switchwire_x-carriages_frames_Omron_Probe_MGN12.stl
- MiniStealth_Core_Orb2.0_TCHC_TD6S.stl
- [a]_MiniStealth_Shroud_Orb2.0_CropTop_2510.stl

Result?

- My Eddy probe is working normally, as expected!

- But the Shroud is shorter and doesn't seem to be cooling properly for future prints.

Is there a solution? The "Core" needs fixing, but the "Shroud" definitely needs fixing... Adjusting the "x-carriages" so that I can raise the Eddy probe higher relative to the nozzle?

Thanks

 

Edited November 28, 2025 by HolyFrank

[atrushing]

1 hour ago, HolyFrank said:

Is there a solution? The "Core" needs fixing, but the "Shroud" definitely needs fixing... Adjusting the "x-carriages" so that I can raise the Eddy probe higher relative to the nozzle?

That hotend looks like it should fit the Triangle Labs TCHC TD6S core. There are so many different hotends with similar lengths and mounting patterns that it gets confusing sometimes.. The TL-TCHC-TD6S core is designed with the hotend being 46.7mm long and it has the same mounting holes as a Dragon hotend. I design all of the different versions around the tip of the nozzle for each hotend.

[HolyFrank]

53 minutes ago, atrushing said:

That hotend looks like it should fit the Triangle Labs TCHC TD6S core. There are so many different hotends with similar lengths and mounting patterns that it gets confusing sometimes.. The TL-TCHC-TD6S core is designed with the hotend being 46.7mm long and it has the same mounting holes as a Dragon hotend. I design all of the different versions around the tip of the nozzle for each hotend.

This is the one I used. But the adjustment lowered the nozzle, and the airflow doesn't seem any more efficient!

What's the ideal height for the shroud and nozzle? I'd like to keep the Crop Shroud look. Is there a significant difference between this and a standard or UHF shroud?

[atrushing]

1 minute ago, HolyFrank said:

This is the one I used. But the adjustment lowered the nozzle, and the airflow doesn't seem any more efficient!

What's the ideal height for the shroud and nozzle? I'd like to keep the Crop Shroud look. Is there a significant difference between this and a standard or UHF shroud?

The shroud should sit about 2mm above the build plate when the nozzle is touching. Can you measure the length of your hotend?. Here is a list telling you the core that would fit best depending on the length of your actual hotend. These all have the same Dragon spacing mounting holes. 

• Dragon              => 45.5mm
• TCHC-TD6S      => 46.7mm
• Dragon Ace       => 51mm
• CHCB-V V6DM => 54.1mm
• Rapido               => 56.2mm

The UHF shrouds are all 8.5mm lower than the standard shrouds. This includes the crop-top UHF shrouds. The different core pieces raise or lower the hotend so that the nozzle aligns properly with the shroud. When the hotends get too long then the UHF shrouds give an extra 8.5mm. 

[HolyFrank]

59 minutes ago, atrushing said:

The shroud should sit about 2mm above the build plate when the nozzle is touching. Can you measure the length of your hotend?. Here is a list telling you the core that would fit best depending on the length of your actual hotend. These all have the same Dragon spacing mounting holes. 

• Dragon              => 45.5mm
• TCHC-TD6S      => 46.7mm
• Dragon Ace       => 51mm
• CHCB-V V6DM => 54.1mm
• Rapido               => 56.2mm

The UHF shrouds are all 8.5mm lower than the standard shrouds. This includes the crop-top UHF shrouds. The different core pieces raise or lower the hotend so that the nozzle aligns properly with the shroud. When the hotends get too long then the UHF shrouds give an extra 8.5mm. 

 

 

59 minutes ago, atrushing said:

Le carénage doit se trouver à environ 2 mm au-dessus du plateau d'impression lorsque la buse le touche. Pouvez-vous mesurer la longueur de votre tête d'impression ? Voici une liste indiquant le noyau le plus adapté en fonction de la longueur de votre tête d'impression. Tous ces noyaux ont le même espacement de trous de fixation Dragon. 

• Dragon => 45,5 mm
• TCHC-TD6S => 46,7 mm
• Dragon Ace => 51 mm
• CHCB-V V6DM => 54,1 mm
• Rapido => 56,2 mm

Les carénages UHF sont tous plus bas de 8,5 mm que les carénages standard. Cela inclut les carénages UHF courts. Les différentes pièces du noyau permettent de surélever ou d'abaisser la tête d'impression afin que la buse soit correctement alignée avec le carénage. Lorsque les têtes d'impression sont trop longues, les carénages UHF offrent un gain de 8,5 mm. 

The length of your hotend is aprox. 48.50mm. That's was short with the last shroud with the remplacement hotend block... I can try the Dragon for dropping down the hotend...

Edited November 28, 2025 by HolyFrank

[HolyFrank]

3 hours ago, HolyFrank said:

The length of your hotend is aprox. 48.50mm. That's was short with the last shroud with the remplacement hotend block... I can try the Dragon for dropping down the hotend...

However, finding an adapter for the hotend, I think that's just going to end up with the same problem. You see? I thought the Dragon model would work, but all it's going to do is make me remove the washers to compensate for the problem even more. A longer hotend model? You designed the part deeper simply to accommodate it. The only method I've found to truly fix it is an adjusted crop shroud, so slightly longer. Or an X-carriage with an Eddy probe adjustment space that allows me to move the probe upwards more without breaking the cable.

[atrushing]

9 hours ago, HolyFrank said:

However, finding an adapter for the hotend, I think that's just going to end up with the same problem. You see? I thought the Dragon model would work, but all it's going to do is make me remove the washers to compensate for the problem even more. A longer hotend model? You designed the part deeper simply to accommodate it. The only method I've found to truly fix it is an adjusted crop shroud, so slightly longer. Or an X-carriage with an Eddy probe adjustment space that allows me to move the probe upwards more without breaking the cable.

Sorry, I didn't realize that we were trying to solve two different problems at the same time. The Eddy is so tall that it hits the MGN12 linear carriage while still being too close to the length of the nozzle. This is part of the reason that I designed the side probe holders.

This plus the fact that your hotend is a different length than normal makes for a "fun" time..

If you use the Dragon core, then I can make an Orbiter 2.0 crop-top shroud that is 3mm longer which should give you enough room to adjust the BTT Eddy. I just really don't want to make a full new set of 400+ shrouds. That would increase the toolhead's compatibility but then I would also have to make even more core pieces.

[HolyFrank]

I imagine that must be a huge job. As you suggested, I might try a slightly longer shroud.

That's really kind of you!

I think you use Blender for adjusting the parts? I could check with my brother, who's quite knowledgeable about this, if I need to make any other adjustments in the future.

However, when I took my measurements, even though I changed the heating block, I got the same measurement as the TCHC-TD6S. It was really my desire to hide the Eddy probe in place of the Omron probe that led me to intentionally lower the hotend and, consequently, use a shorter shroud for cooling.

Edited November 29, 2025 by HolyFrank

[HolyFrank]

2 hours ago, HolyFrank said:

I imagine that must be a huge job. As you suggested, I might try a slightly longer shroud.

That's really kind of you!

I think you use Blender for adjusting the parts? I could check with my brother, who's quite knowledgeable about this, if I need to make any other adjustments in the future.

However, when I took my measurements, even though I changed the heating block, I got the same measurement as the TCHC-TD6S. It was really my desire to hide the Eddy probe in place of the Omron probe that led me to intentionally lower the hotend and, consequently, use a shorter shroud for cooling.

The first image shows the Eddy probe pressed down. The second is an estimate of the nozzle/shroud height.

Edited November 29, 2025 by HolyFrank