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Preferred OS/UI for Voron


3dKaosMonkey

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I just built my 2.4 and am running mainsail. I havent used Fluid, but used to use octopi on my other machines. I never really enjoyed octopi, always giving me trouble. But mainsail feels like what octopi should have been years ago. good user interface, and i like that i can edit the config via my iphone. I chose not octopi cause i never had good luck with it, so i thought i would try something new. Also mainsail UX looks cool.

 

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I'm huge fan of octopi and I'm using it dailly on my other printer. BUT you need to install Mainsail ( or Fluid I do not know this one) if you are new from simple reason. You will edit your config 30x times a day and this is much easier to do on Mainsail.

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I use Fluidd (and like it) but either it or Mainsail are fine.  Most of the config you'll be dealing with is in Klipper so either will work out.  The ease of making a quick Klipper change and just restarting iklipper rather than rebuilding Marlin (and similar tools) is a game changer.

 

As @westersaid, you'll be doing that a lot early on...

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Out of curiosity - is there a guide for configuration..  Or best practices, etc?

Meaning what are all of the critical items needed to be found in the configuration and are we only talking the printer.cfg or could it be more cfg files?

I am looking to start my V0.1 when I get my printed parts.

My board is a MKS MINI E3 V2.0 so I am using the sample printer cfg found on the Klipper example configuration page. 

Given the board is not hooked up to a fully functional machine I cannot really start but figured the more I can look at the configuration files and parameters the better off I may be when I do get the build started.

For example what does a fully tuned configuration file look like, generally speaking?

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When I started with my Oct Pro, I first read this:  https://3dwork.io/en/btt-octopus/#Klipper_firmware_generation.  Got me familiar with what was happening and I was able to get klipper built and connected.

After that, I found an Octopus config for the Voron and just walked through it using the Klipper reference section by section to understand it better so you're going down the same, successful for me, path for sure.  It helped that I had the hardware setup and connected so I could validate things step by step - though when you have problems, you're in a bit of a position where you don't know what to trust, your printer or the klipper config, so it takes a little bit to chjeck things out.  The Voron initial start documentation is a really good guide once you're ready to hit the printer.

I've attached the file for my V2.4.  It's working really well but I've got a couple of things that are still under development (some of the test stuff might be in there). I've done numerous test prints to measure resonance and apply some input shaping so you'll see the results in there - still need to hit it with the accelerometer for the final tuning that gets away from my interpretation and goes with hard data from the printer.

 

All the tunings are going to be specific to your printer - there aren't really that many of them and as you follow the initial Voron startup instructions, you'll work them up as you go.  It sounds like you're putting down a solid base to understand what you're looking at when the time comes but you'll work up a lot of the offsets, PID values, etc. as you go through the process so don't get worried about that.

I've added a Nevermore filter, a chamber fan at the top of the front opening to circulate air in the chamber for more even heating and to roll air out when printing PLA with the doors open, I've got a nozzle brush with a purge tray (still need to finish the purging code), plus some RGB LED lighting, and numerous extra temp sensors including an electronics bay and a chamber temp sensor as well as collecting temps from the Raspberry Pi and Octopus Pro.  You'll see tidbits about that in the config file when you scroll through it.

I've done some bed meshing and this thing is laying down ABS like a boss.

It's not my first 3D printing rodeo but it is the best rodeo so far and I'm really happy.

I tell people it's a Voron and then have to tell them, it's not a company, it's not even a kit, it's a design and people build it to the general design and then customize from there and their heads explode - but they can dig the quality of what comes out.

 

printer.cfg

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Here is a shot of what it currently looks like.

Visible mods including the chamber fan, reworked front skirts to include a power switch and an HDMI / USB connections to be able to get directly to the RPi without having to disassemble things.  One of the rear skirts has a panel mounted ethernet also going to the RPi.  The lighting I did myself using diffusers from some aluminum extrusion for LEDs I bought on Amazon.  There is a BTT Smart filament sensor in the rear which is wired but not yet configured.  It also uses the Mandala Rose kinetic mounts - super nice. For that reason my Nevermore sits sideways on the left side because it can't get out in front of the bed like the standard bed mounting strategy.

Mechanically corners are gusseted for rigidity and I need to re-tune my resonances after doing that.

There it is, V2.2874

 

Good luck on your build!

 

20220211_213517.jpg

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@zogzogzogThanks for sharing all of the details about your machine and cfg file.    

I certainly have lots to learn.    I am still trying to wrap my head around all of this.    

You made reference to Oct Pro - Is that something similar to Mainsail and Fluidd or is that just the MCU board you are referring too?

I got confirmation today that my printed parts are on the way... I did end up buying two formbot3d kits the V0.1 and V2.4.

I need to decide which one to tackle first.   I am leaning toward the V0.1 to get my feet wet.

I have been 3d printing on an off since since 2017 - I started with a Robo 3d and then moved onto Creality machines - CR-10's -  So I have never scratch built a printer.

 

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I mean I'm using a BigTreeTech Octopus Pro as the driver board - sorry for any confusion.

The build can definitely be fun as @westermentioned.  Take your time, make sure things go together as expected, component by component into nice subsystems, and then into a full up printer.  With your experience, you'll recognize a lot of stuff.  The CoreXY design is a little weird to get your head around at first compared to the CR-10 and the Robo (I hadn't been all touchy-feely with one until building my V2.4) but the assembly manual is really good in that respect.

These things are pretty nicely engineered - you'll have fun - and end up with a great set of printers.

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