Jump to content

V0.2607 Gantry Refresh & Mod Guide


Recommended Posts

As soon as I completed my V2.4 (Mod guide eventually...) my V0 started acting up. One of the belts never sat in one of its bearing stacks correctly though it ran fine for a long time, so this is the time to fix that. I have the gantry dissassembled and in parts:image.thumb.jpeg.028e63fef5c9afe7ae98a55a627f8c1f.jpeg

LTT screwdriver is very handy, as is the parts tray from SteveBuilds. V2.4 is printing new parts right now:image.thumb.jpeg.1841b18d657f0cd034bbd7de051e7823.jpeg

New lazy cam front idlers, motor mounts, and some top hat seals to maybe help chamber temps. Also need to reprint the motor tensioners along with longer bed nuts and a bed fan bracket but in green.

I printed some pinned XY joints a while ago that don't need washers, but I refused to take apart my only working printer at the time. So those go in now:

image.thumb.jpeg.68850d5c8cd2b98c3f52625bfb3285de.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mods: I'll go through what is in each picture and general thoughts on each. I may also mention alternatives I have tried if I remember.

image.thumb.jpeg.cbb0dc9d3bc6329c1c0fffb8b67d0792.jpeg

Waveshare 2.8 touchscreen is great. The simple V0 screen I had was fine, but no real comparison to Klipperscreen.

Printed bottom panel is great, did that myself with simple slicer manipulation. It's V0.1 panel geometry, but I don't want to reprint it.

Serial Plate is good, just VHB to attach.

Nevermore V6 is good, quieter than V4 fan that rattled, but the sliding door is really fiddly to print and also to keep from breaking. This one is actually broken, but it doesn't really matter.

Kirigami Bed is fine I'm not sure it is fully a mod anymore! I never tried the original bed frame. I have macros for the LED which are nice, I need to program the nozzle and rainbow matchsticks more like my 2.4 leds though. Speaking of which, Rainbow Matchsticks are very cool.

Barely visible is failed mod #1, bed blower fan. The mod itself would be fine if I had a pwm fan, but I don't. 100% fan is too much for the heater. I'm planning to swap for an axial bed fan mod as mentioned above.

image.thumb.jpeg.bd86e3a4c0561cb5d6bad0abfd4c0375.jpeg

On to the back! Wiring is a bit of a mess, but that's mostly laziness at this point.

Barely visible at the top are a chamber thermister (new addition, so far so good) and pi cam v3 which is good, but I should have gotten the wider FOV version. I will post an example pic once its back up and running.

Electronics are mounted to Fizzy's FT EMS which works great. It is very fiddly to get and keep everything aligned, but no more VHB...almost. There is not a cable duct cover with a U2C mount, so I VHB taped its mount on. This implies CAN Bus, which I will touch on in a second. 

URBI with SFS 2.0 is great. I guess now there is a filament runout foot, but I don't have one printed (yet, I might try it with a future planned mod and move the SFS to my V2)

I really need to swap pi cooling fans, my pi3B+ tends to get hot. Maybe a panel with a pc fan?

image.thumb.jpeg.482766d497169fad21b8d541161059ec.jpeg

Mini SB with EBB36. Love this, my regular umbilical crapped the bed so many times. I had some issues flashing initially that resolved themselves and now it just works.

6mm panel stealth handles, the 6mm makes more sense in the next section.

Vented back half panel, I might swap this later. no problems though.

image.thumb.jpeg.26c98dcb9736079182faed9946469b99.jpeg

Zero Panels with 3mm foam, hence the 6mm offset for the handles. keeps in heat and lowers noise. Hard to get printed at first, they kept lifting from the bed. The only part I'm not super happy with is the door, my VHB tape sags and comes loose. I eventually want to go to the mini fridge door. That will also force me to change to extended stealth skirts and feet in order to keep the waveshare, but I'm okay with that. I'll definitely have a build guide for that stuff when I sauce a door kit.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

New bed fan is installed, this one is PWM capable. I had to mirror the original to put it opposite the bed wagos. One picture from the front:

image.thumb.jpeg.059306bbce17deab76d061e52b24363b.jpeg

And one from beneath:

image.thumb.jpeg.b378100a5233870a4f71033202298019.jpeg

Also rebuilt the gantry, but still getting belt rubbing. It has switched sides, I assume I switched the old belts top to bottom putting them back in. 

image.thumb.jpeg.c5627a1dc7b3a6e7569147cddedb2e75.jpeg

I've had this problem since I built this printer and have replaced the printed parts with perfectly flat ones. Would new belt help this? I have extra from the 2.4, so I could swap it out for fresh.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

New belt did in fact solve the issue. Front bed screw cannot use the extended thumbscrew or it will crash onto the frame where my serial tag is. Two printers actulaly working at the same time for once, I don't think I've had that since...ever? 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...