My first build / 3d printer

[mvdveer]

12 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

Sonjust found out that 2 of my stepper motors are slightly different to the rest and they are on the z drives they are 1.8 deg steps soni ordered moons ms17hd2p4200 I have 4 of them was ment to be 6 and the other 2 are ms17hd6p4200 they are slightly longer motors should I swap them to the gantry and move the others to the z drives or being they are all 1.8 moons motors don't worry about i

The smaller motors I would use for the Z-Drives and the two larger ones for the A and B motors. (4 x Z-motors; 2 X AB motors; ) The Voron BOM indicates all motors to be the same:

This is from the LDO BOM:

This is from the Formbot kit: 6 x Moons MS17HD6P4201 - 05

 

So, if you have 6 of the same - then it doesn't matter. However if you have 4 of one and 2 of the other then it would make sense to use the same motor on the Z-Axis - less change of troubles with configuration in the future.

 

[sleepster217]

3 hours ago, mvdveer said:

The smaller motors I would use for the Z-Drives and the two larger ones for the A and B motors. (4 x Z-motors; 2 X AB motors; ) The Voron BOM indicates all motors to be the same:

This is from the LDO BOM:

This is from the Formbot kit: 6 x Moons MS17HD6P4201 - 05

So, if you have 6 of the same - then it doesn't matter. However if you have 4 of one and 2 of the other then it would make sense to use the same motor on the Z-Axis - less change of troubles with configuration in the future.

Was thinking as much I was ment to have all the same and did not know they were different until I was witing labels so when I was doing the wiring I did not have to double check things and found out one was bigger 

 

I will move them to the a b drives just thought I would ask

[sleepster217]

So just swapped the motors over and did some wiring got a long way to go put psu is a way off any way will not be pluging them into the board but have some heat shrink labels to go over the wires good old ally express for random cheap stuff but as I am.sure all of u can vouch will make it so much easier if I have to pull stuff apppart

[sleepster217]

I hope I am reading this right so motor pin

1 is 2b

2 blank

3 1b

4 blank

5 is 1a

6 is 2a

Hope that makes sence and if u can advise me if I am reading them wrong

[sleepster217]

Just now, sleepster217 said:

I hope I am reading this right so motor pin

1

 

[sleepster217]

So I have done some more wiring and installed the back pannel again will be unplugging most of the wiring when I do the clipper install on the boards I am hoping the nvme drive turns up and the new ribbon cable for the touch screen then the psu should be here next week assuming aust post gets it together as they have been very slow lately 

[mvdveer]

4 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

Hope that makes sence and if u can advise me if I am reading them wrong

Spot on - reading them correctly. The connector for the motor wiring should already be crimped this way. Then just marry it up with the 4pin JST to go into the motherboard

[sleepster217]

43 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

Spot on - reading them correctly. The connector for the motor wiring should already be crimped this way. Then just marry it up with the 4pin JST to go into the motherboard

Motors were naked but got the wiring done that way motor is a 6 pin ph 2 just for reference just in case some one needs to know and thankyou for the reply 

[sleepster217]

So I have been having a little bit of trouble with my nvme drive that I got is a 256 Toshiba not sure exactly what model I will post later is a m2 m key so I got a usb adaptor and put pi os on it and fitted it I had a screen and keyboard so I could see what was going on and it stays on the red pi os install screen and says something like nvme boot failed so my understanding is that it can see it but is not reading it I have read in a few places that some of the m2 nvme ssd drives are not compatible with the pi any input would be appreciated 

[sleepster217]

Well I am getting closer to having it done just got a few more terminal to crimp on the print head and more stuff to do to the pi not using the nvme drive atm hot end installed psu and ssr and some other bits on order now 

[Penatr8tor]

6 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

So I have been having a little bit of trouble with my nvme drive that I got is a 256 Toshiba not sure exactly what model I will post later is a m2 m key so I got a usb adaptor and put pi os on it and fitted it I had a screen and keyboard so I could see what was going on and it stays on the red pi os install screen and says something like nvme boot failed so my understanding is that it can see it but is not reading it I have read in a few places that some of the m2 nvme ssd drives are not compatible with the pi any input would be appreciated 

Definitely post up the model of the Toshiba NVME SSD. Also, I believe I read somewhere that there is something you might need to set to get the drive to boot. You should be able to boot with a Micro SD with the SSD attached to see if you can access the SSD as storage. This would be to confirm if the issue is software/boot related or hardware related aka the Pi can't read the drive at all.

[sleepster217]

1 hour ago, Penatr8tor said:

Definitely post up the model of the Toshiba NVME SSD. Also, I believe I read somewhere that there is something you might need to set to get the drive to boot. You should be able to boot with a Micro SD with the SSD attached to see if you can access the SSD as storage. This would be to confirm if the issue is software/boot related or hardware related aka the Pi can't read the drive at all.

Toshiba kioxia 256gb 2242 kbg40znt256g 

[Penatr8tor]

56 minutes ago, sleepster217 said:

Toshiba kioxia 256gb 2242 kbg40znt256g 

Well, I hate to even imply this but... Some stuff just doesn't work.

I'm pretty sure that you're not the one that made this review on Amazon but a similar SSD that's not Kioxia but has the same s/n# kbg40znt256g is listed below.

What I do know is that the one I used works 100%. I bought the $33 PM991 on the far right. It's possible that the $19 PM991A will work but... I would just be assuming as I haven't tried it.

So, one reviewer tried it with and Orange Pi5 and it worked so the $19 PM991A could be a good option if you don't mind throwing 20 bucks at the problem.

Link to the PM991A

Link to the PM991

 

 

 

[sleepster217]

5 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Well, I hate to even imply this but... Some stuff just doesn't work.

I'm pretty sure that you're not the one that made this review on Amazon but a similar SSD that's not Kioxia but has the same s/n# kbg40znt256g is listed below.

What I do know is that the one I used works 100%. I bought the $33 PM991 on the far right. It's possible that the $19 PM991A will work but... I would just be assuming as I haven't tried it.

So, one reviewer tried it with and Orange Pi5 and it worked so the $19 PM991A could be a good option if you don't mind throwing 20 bucks at the problem.

Link to the PM991A

Link to the PM991

No that was not me that wrote the review and as for the links you posted unfortunately they do not post them to Australia I will have to find out if I can get the ones you have listed above or bight the bullet and spend the money if I cannot find them and get the one from core electronics that dose work but is crazy expensive and is 1 Tb from memory (core electronics sell the pi they are one of the distributors)

[sleepster217]

Hey not sure what way I have to do this for the configuration of klipper and the cotpuss pro and the u2c and ebb board so I have installed klipper fluid etc not do I put in the infomation for the printer next and then flash the board  and the do the can config next 

[mvdveer]

The can network should be established and connected as one of the first steps to allow you u2c and EBB to connect to klipper. The printer.cfg file is just a set of klipper commands telling it how your printer is configured - where what is connected. 

Your can0-network is the interface between the canbus and klipper, like the USB cable is the connection between your controller board and klipper.

Board should be flashed before the printer.cfg file as you would need the dev/serial/by-id address or UUID of the board for the configuration file. 

[sleepster217]

44 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

The can network should be established and connected as one of the first steps to allow you u2c and EBB to connect to klipper. The printer.cfg file is just a set of klipper commands telling it how your printer is configured - where what is connected. 

Your can0-network is the interface between the canbus and klipper, like the USB cable is the connection between your controller board and klipper.

Board should be flashed before the printer.cfg file as you would need the dev/serial/by-id address or UUID of the board for the configuration file. 

Ok thankyou

[PFarm]

@sleepster217 Here are some good guides on setting up your CanBus devices:

U2C

Octopus

Select your tool head from this list

Tool Head List

[sleepster217]

Starting to take shape psu should be here in the next couple of days fingers crossed klipper is installed touch screen is working and installed  got some pla fillament yesterday for when the printer is finished so I can do some calabration prints 

Now do I need a dryer (is winter here and is cold in the shed were my printer is) if yes what dryers are worth looking at as I have no idea just know they are not all the same

[mvdveer]

4 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

Now do I need a dryer (is winter here and is cold in the shed were my printer is)

I can sympathise. I have both SOVOL (amazon au) and eSUN (cubitech in Melbourne) dryers. After a couple of years of use, and with the cardboard spools filament is shipped with, the eSun dryers are causing problems as the spool gets near to empty, especially if the dryer is mounted above the printer. The eSun dryers allows the box to be below or above the printer, whereas the SOVOL dryer only allows the box to be below the printer. (Which is possible better) SOVOL stores two roles of filament for AUD76 and eSun one for AUD80. There is also COMGROW (similar to SOVOL) on sale for AUD65. (However the reviews would deter me from getting this) These will be more than adequate. But you can go even higher quality with the EIBOS dryer that @Penatr8tor recommended. (Due to the weakness of the AUD against the USD, the price after conversion is close to  AUD300 with shipping of AUD80 included)

My recommendation for a good budget filament dryer - SOVOL

[sleepster217]

2 hours ago, mvdveer said:

I can sympathise. I have both SOVOL (amazon au) and eSUN (cubitech in Melbourne) dryers. After a couple of years of use, and with the cardboard spools filament is shipped with, the eSun dryers are causing problems as the spool gets near to empty, especially if the dryer is mounted above the printer. The eSun dryers allows the box to be below or above the printer, whereas the SOVOL dryer only allows the box to be below the printer. (Which is possible better) SOVOL stores two roles of filament for AUD76 and eSun one for AUD80. There is also COMGROW (similar to SOVOL) on sale for AUD65. (However the reviews would deter me from getting this) These will be more than adequate. But you can go even higher quality with the EIBOS dryer that @Penatr8tor recommended. (Due to the weakness of the AUD against the USD, the price after conversion is close to  AUD300 with shipping of AUD80 included)

My recommendation for a good budget filament dryer - SOVOL

Thankyou I will have a good look at the sovol looks like it is about a good size and price point and I like that it can store fillament as a dry box as well 

 

Do u use your this way and if so can u leave the descant in while operating the dryer in normal mode ? Thankyou for your input I find it better to ask what people are using as real life use tends to find the problems

[mvdveer]

2 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

Do u use your this way and if so can u leave the descant in while operating the dryer in normal mode ?

I do - use it to store and dry filament. When printing long ASA/ABS prints, I tend to run the box at 20C whilst printing. If I haven't used the filament stored in the box, I generally dry it for  6 - 8 hours before printing with it.

[sleepster217]

Just wired up the psu and ssr ran out of wire so will have to get some more tomorrow ran wires from psu to main board had a old cord so I set the psu to 24 volts so once I get the rest of the wire I will finish wiring it up and then back to doing config etc let the fun begin getting close now 

[sleepster217]

Just finished wiring the printer up and switched it on and no smoke so looks like I did something right

[Penatr8tor]

3 hours ago, sleepster217 said:

Just finished wiring the printer up and switched it on and no smoke so looks like I did something right

Awesome! 

You're definitely getting close. While I don't have an actual check list... The first things I check are...

Fans and Heaters, Endstops, Z probe and motor direction. If those things checkout... 

Full Send!

Actually, I home the printer with my finger very close to the emergency stop button.