HartK Stealth Burner AUX Pin "Solved"

[Wannabe]

I am currently upgrading my 2.4R2 x 300 Afterburner CW1 Hartk PCB Octopus 1.x

After 2700 or so hours of operation with only a few minor issues I decided that the StealthBurner /CW2 upgrade would be in order. Well one thing let to another, I replaced a printed mount on B drive that I noticed had a stress crack, that lead to doing the pins mod which led to replacing a few bearing, which led to the decision to replace all of the wiring going through the cable chains with a quality brand of wiring mainly due to the fact that had 2 wires break already.

Just a few more wires to connect to the Octopus and I should be back in operation soon.

I'm sort of stumped with AUX connection coming from the Stealthburner Hartk PCB to the Octopus. First of all I'm not sure what the AUX connection is used for, and secondly the diagram shows the AUX connected to two (2) different pins on the MCU.

If someone can tell me the function of the AUX, and whether the diagram is indeed correct I certainly would appreciate the feedback.

 

Edited February 22 by Wannabe
Solved

[Dirk]

The image of the PCB you show, is not the official one for the Afterburner PCB designed by HartK. Maybe it is, but then it should be an old one.

 

Check out this location: the github for the current version. It is the 2 part PCB for stealthburner, currently widely in use, and buyable for about 7 euros from many vendors from aliexpress. It can be used with any other MCU.

In these schematics the AUX port / pins can be used for a chamber thermistor or for an x endstop might you decide to go for an umbilical.

These two seperate options would correspond to two seperate locations on the MCU (1 for a thermistor port and the other for an endstop port).

 

if you have gone through all this trouble, and already have had problems with cable breaks, why not go for a CAN (or USB) toolhead board?

[claudermilk]

Timing sounds about right. That's approximately when my original wiring failed (in my case an extruder motor wire gave up). I swapped to the 2-piece hartk board paired with the LDO breakout at the other end to re-attach the Octopus. As @Dirk said, the Aux could be for a filament sensor or thermistor. Mine is connected through the harness, but isn't plugged to anything at this point.

IMHO, this is a fairly simple swap--mostly the hassle of re-running the wires. CAN introduces a whole other barrel of worms on the software side. To me it's trading an occasional mechanical annoyance with a potential ongoing software headache. For now I'm happy with the 16 wire harness and am watching LDO's Leviathan.

[Wannabe]

On 2/17/2024 at 8:53 AM, Dirk said:

The image of the PCB you show, is not the official one for the Afterburner PCB designed by HartK. Maybe it is, but then it should be an old one.

Check out this location: the github for the current version. It is the 2 part PCB for stealthburner, currently widely in use, and buyable for about 7 euros from many vendors from aliexpress. It can be used with any other MCU.

In these schematics the AUX port / pins can be used for a chamber thermistor or for an x endstop might you decide to go for an umbilical.

These two seperate options would correspond to two seperate locations on the MCU (1 for a thermistor port and the other for an endstop port).

if you have gone through all this trouble, and already have had problems with cable breaks, why not go for a CAN (or USB) toolhead board?

Thanks for the feedback. At this time I won't be installing  a thermistor nor will I need the endstop port so that wire will be considered a spare at least for now. As for CAN maybe in the next upgrade.

[Wannabe]

On 2/17/2024 at 5:44 PM, claudermilk said:

Timing sounds about right. That's approximately when my original wiring failed (in my case an extruder motor wire gave up). I swapped to the 2-piece hartk board paired with the LDO breakout at the other end to re-attach the Octopus. As @Dirk said, the Aux could be for a filament sensor or thermistor. Mine is connected through the harness, but isn't plugged to anything at this point.

IMHO, this is a fairly simple swap--mostly the hassle of re-running the wires. CAN introduces a whole other barrel of worms on the software side. To me it's trading an occasional mechanical annoyance with a potential ongoing software headache. For now I'm happy with the 16 wire harness and am watching LDO's Leviathan.

Appreciate the comment, the Leviathan certainly does look interesting but for now I am going to finish up the current upgrades I'm  doing and get the printer back online. I must admit it is taking a bit longer than I had anticipated.