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Voron 2.4 build from a siboor kit. Build log after the build!


JBC

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I finally found the time to start typing my build diaries. Although most of the build is finished I still want to implement some mods and changes, so this is for those changes. And, now that I’m writing this, I’m missing a lot of pictures. Should have made more.

My kit arrived on 16 December.

To start, Building the frame was not a difficult task, but somehow the frame has one square which was 0,5mm's off and another was 1mm off. The rest was perfectly square. I measured all the profiles and checked if they were cut square (which they were), so why this is, can’t tell. I’ve retried this several times to double check, but I think a couple of the profiles were not perfectly square.  Luckily the sides which were off, were on opposing sides, so these became the front and rear of the machine. IMG_20231217_091713.thumb.jpg.d4a9bb996bf3d11cab7fd8e97693f4c9.jpg

And of course the only place flat enough was my kitchen counter. But the space was a bit limited, since I have way to many things in my kitchen.

The next steps of building the frame were quite easy to do. No strange things here, apart from a small mistake, which made placing the standard belt covers very difficult.. (so I opted for the old V2 covers. Which are a visual upgrade in my opinion).

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Squaring the flying gantry was quite easy to do. I did do it beforehand on a somewhat flat surface (my floor). Inserting the flying gantry into the frame took a bit more effort, but was doable on my own. But inserting the z-axis belts took a bit of fiddling. There is a certain trick with lifting the frame halfway.  The first routing of the A & B belts also took a bit of fiddling. I had to re rout the belt because it trapped in one of the profiles, took me a while to see that mistake. 

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My kit came with the stepper online motors, so there is one meter of wire connected to the ends. And they were all dupont connections, which is easy if you want to lengthen them but annoying if you only get red cable from the supplier. I had to take special care to connect everything correctly.

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From here to a working machine didn’t take long. Everything was preconfigured, (which made my life difficult with the last klipper update….. More on that later).

And yes, the table is a mess, no space at all sometimes.

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The first prints came off flawlessly apart from some weird gaps between the walls and the infill.

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Afterwards it was time to clean up the mess of the wiring. Which took me the longest time off all. An entire Saturday of slow rewiring. And of course the missing picture is the spaghetti of wiring that was underneath my printer. But the end result is something that I’m proud of. I’m a mechanical engineer by trade, but wiring was never something I had to mess with on a daily basis. Here is a picture of it being nearly done.

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But, here’s the kicker. I messed up with the rewiring…. I apparently broke two connections. This took me nearly an hour to find, since I ordered all the wiring. It almost looked as if one of the motors was reversed when I turned the machine on. This was the first time something didn’t go as planned. But everything worked fine afterwards.

After mounting the panels I could print and the result is looking good. I finished the main build just before new years. 

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And here it is. as it was at the end of the main build. It took me about 2 weeks to build from getting the kit to the picture above. Maybe on average 3-4 hours a day over two weeks. Addictive building such a kit and machine! I also planned the build to be in my holiday so i had the time to build the machine. All the modifications afterwards took me a whole lot of time, till now. Somehow January is a busy month.

 

 

Edited by JBC
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The first thing i wanted to add was the smart filament sensor from BTT. I didn't have a filament run-out sensor on my Ender 3 and had a couple tangle issues in the past with badly wound spools. But i wanted an somewhat elegant solution for the placement. So i went with this model: https://github.com/mkelnar/voron-exhaust-mod  The only thing i don't like about this model is that everything needs to be routed through the frame. For the trident it's no problem but it's quite a wiring issue with the V2.4 (if, like me you don't have enough cable lying around, remember, a mechanical guy). So for now the solution is this: A hole in the side, but filled with hot glue. Why, because I wanted to add a hepa filter in combination with the nevermore from the kit for abs fumes. I need to redesign the hepa filter holder for another type because the ones I had lying around were to big.

IMG_20240205_202855.thumb.jpg.64fe27b461009364f8d6a42ade32f097.jpg

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 3/3/2024 at 8:58 PM, xyleth said:

Apologies for the minor act of necromancy, but as someone considering the Siboor kit this has been immensely useful.  Thank you for taking the time to document it!

No problem at all. I'm still working on the printer and printing with it. Glad i could help.

In the mean time, I've made a couple of upgrades, most out of annoyances. The first one was energy usage related, namely the bed spacers. I've changed them to some PEEK turned spacers. I had some spare bare on my work so i made some custom spacers. I found it to do two things, the first the tolerance of the stock spacers (the knurled nuts) is bad. +/- 0,3mm in height. These spacers are within 0,03mm of length. The second, the chamber heats up a lot more quickly (but that's mostly because of an happy little mistake. The new spacers are 3mm longer). Added bonus of Peek, the thermal expansion is almost the same as the Aluminum base plate.

IMG_20240116_201759.thumb.jpg.db82025b2d9b692284ca66d7e018adac.jpg

Second upgrade is the at the doors. I went for the Clicky-Clack Fridge Dooor from . It's been a huge upgrade in silence and smell! sorry to say, but the stock doors, with the VHB tape are just shit design for a printer that is supposed to print ABS and the likes. (from a sealing perspective, even with the exhaust fan running.) Also the doors fell off, multiple times! And added some standard white lights.

IMG_20240305_211317.thumb.jpg.8592cd2d8b46b928417900fd126d6adf.jpg

 

 

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Urgh!  I need to stop looking at upgrades 😝. I’ve already rebuilt this printer half a dozen times in my head and I only ordered it today!

Although that door mod does look interesting….

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haha, same here, but i'm done for now! The only thing i find is almost mandatory is the filament sensor. That thing is a game changer for me. Had some troubles with a couple of bad spools and it helped me a lot!. What kind of probe is included in your kit? Is it the TAP kit? I'm busy with the Cartographer because i had some weird issues with the z-offset. I'll update when i'm done.

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I also installed the Cartographer 3D probe.

I needed to ask something about the integrated accelerometer and visited their Discord. They were very friendly and helpful. I am really very happy with my switch from the (printed) TAP to the Cartographer.

I think the TAP is an excellent solution for the problem we had. Before TAP Klicky was the excellent solution to the proximity sensor that is stock voron 2.4. 

You can find many opinions on this forum about the TAP. Very popular. The CNC version then 🙂 Because the printed version unfortunately suffers problems with tolerances, loose magnets, flexibility when heated, in short- moving parts in heated chamber syndrome 🙂

But when you consider the fact that this Cartographer probe is available for about the price of the TAP version, and half the price of the CNC version, with an added speed of a factor of a few hundred: I used to do 6x6 meshes with TAP in about 2-3 minutes. Now I do a mesh of 50x50 in less than 1 minute. 

I have also seen that the Siboor kits come with this Cartographer sensor. I think that iit s the next step and Siboor is there on time.

I have followed a build log a month ago, also a Siboor kit. Also with great components. I wish you a lot of luck @xyleth

And hopefully you will also document your build...  So we can see what is inside 🙂

 

 

 

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@Dirk Are you active on the Cartographer discord by any change? then maybe you've helped me out yesterday;). @xyleth The Cartographer so far is a lot more stable, no strange z-offset issues and quite easy to install. So it's a good improvement to the kit! Good luck with the build! keep us posted.

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May I ask you as a new printer how you decided on the siboor kit Vs magic phoenix, formbot,or LDO. What was your solution to the stepper online wiring. I've searched the internet looking for builds so thanks for posting. One of the older builds diaries seems to indicate the same wiring on the motors. Wonder why they don't fix that and follow suit with the other kits. Guess you have a lot of red wire now. Curious if u chose any of the upgrades and why also.

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11 hours ago, dasbooter said:

May I ask you as a new printer how you decided on the siboor kit Vs magic phoenix, formbot,or LDO. What was your solution to the stepper online wiring. I've searched the internet looking for builds so thanks for posting. One of the older builds diaries seems to indicate the same wiring on the motors. Wonder why they don't fix that and follow suit with the other kits. Guess you have a lot of red wire now. Curious if u chose any of the upgrades and why also.

Speaking for myself, Siboor was the right blend of having a BOM with parts I would have chosen myself vs. price coupled with generally okay to good reviews from other people online who've built the kit.  There weren't any comments I could find about 'gotchas' that any self build is going to have that I looked at and thought 'I can't live with that'.

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On 3/7/2024 at 1:53 AM, dasbooter said:

May I ask you as a new printer how you decided on the siboor kit Vs magic phoenix, formbot,or LDO. What was your solution to the stepper online wiring. I've searched the internet looking for builds so thanks for posting. One of the older builds diaries seems to indicate the same wiring on the motors. Wonder why they don't fix that and follow suit with the other kits. Guess you have a lot of red wire now. Curious if u chose any of the upgrades and why also.

Bit late with the reaction, But for me it was the cost compared to the Bom. Same as @xyleth mentioned. Also the preconfigured CAN was a bonus for me (even though i had to reconfigure the entire thing from the ground up because of an klipper update..). As for the motor wiring, i shortened the motor cables from the Z-axis motors and used those to lengthen the X & Y motor cables. It's more than enough for the 300mm build. I've got a lot of red wire left from the build.

As for the Magic Phoenix kit, I would rather have that one, but it's quite expensive to get that kit here in the Netherlands.

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Actually I really appreciate all the feedback. It helps me. Unfortunately I'm struggling along putting out figurative(but who knows what the future may bring lol) fires with my Sovol sv06 plus. In the mean time I keep reading.

 

I don't think either response has talked about upgrades(for example the rails). As for @JBC why would you have preferred the magic phoenix. It's funny how they say hey this is how were saving you money in the FAQ, this is what your getting. I kind of like that.

Edited by dasbooter
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On 3/7/2024 at 6:39 AM, xyleth said:

Speaking for myself, Siboor was the right blend of having a BOM with parts I would have chosen myself vs. price coupled with generally okay to good reviews from other people online who've built the kit.  There weren't any comments I could find about 'gotchas' that any self build is going to have that I looked at and thought 'I can't live with that'.

Did u go with any of the upgrades, can I pick you brain on that?

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, dasbooter said:

Actually I really appreciate all the feedback. It helps me. Unfortunately I'm struggling along putting out figurative(but who knows what the future may bring lol) fires with my Sovol sv06 plus. In the mean time I keep reading.

I don't think either response has talked about upgrades(for example the rails). As for @JBC why would you have preferred the magic phoenix. It's funny how they say hey this is how were saving you money in the FAQ, this is what your getting. I kind of like that.

It really depends on where you live. For me the import taxes+vat and shipping is almost as much as the printer itself. An LDO kit would almost be cheaper (slight exaggeration, but you get the point). See below:image.thumb.jpeg.1b2021794bf34aa311852b99aa1b2005.jpeg

As for the upgrades, in the rails, yeah i have the stock ones on all axes and a 'hiwin' mgn 12. But as I'm almost finished testing with the cartographer, i found some ringing. The problem is the hiwin carriage, there is quite a lot of play as i can bend the carriage. So a good preloaded carriage (za for hiwin)+ correct rail is a good upgrade. As for other upgrades, Beefy idlers and beefy Z-idlers are a good place to start as the stock ones leave some things to be desired (mostly on the z axis).

Edited by JBC
Typing on this site with a smartphone is quite hard.
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22 hours ago, JBC said:

It really depends on where you live. For me the import taxes+vat and shipping is almost as much as the printer itself. An LDO kit would almost be cheaper (slight exaggeration, but you get the point). See below:image.thumb.jpeg.1b2021794bf34aa311852b99aa1b2005.jpeg

As for the upgrades, in the rails, yeah i have the stock ones on all axes and a 'hiwin' mgn 12. But as I'm almost finished testing with the cartographer, i found some ringing. The problem is the hiwin carriage, there is quite a lot of play as i can bend the carriage. So a good preloaded carriage (za for hiwin)+ correct rail is a good upgrade. As for other upgrades, Beefy idlers and beefy Z-idlers are a good place to start as the stock ones leave some things to be desired (mostly on the z axis).

Ok gotcha. To just make sure I understand you it might not be a bad idea to upgrade your version of the hiwin rail to an even better hiwin rail for your x carriage.

 

Hypothesizing that the costs to Canada might not be more for the magic phoenix kit than others. What attracted you to that kit(I understand that it was not a good buy for you, but still wonder)

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  • 2 months later...
20 hours ago, Pitufo said:

Hi just got my 2.4 kit from siboor today and after painstakingly squaring my frame realized I've gotta preload all the roll in t nuts... Am i missing something?  Can't find a list anywhere.

I didn’t preload the nuts in my Siboor build.  They’re roll in nuts after all, I just rolled them in as / where needed.

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On 6/8/2024 at 8:06 AM, Pitufo said:

Hi just got my 2.4 kit from siboor today and after painstakingly squaring my frame realized I've gotta preload all the roll in t nuts... Am i missing something?  Can't find a list anywhere.

You roll them in when needed to attach a part to the frame. This will happen throughout the build. Unlike a V0, these do not need to be pre-loaded (i.e before frame assemble) - they are done "as-you-go"

image.thumb.png.cd7e35a414f108c5e69f9aed433457e6.png

as an example mounting the linear rails to the frame:

image.thumb.png.fc9a07d6edbcba0ea7e3b51d711e84e2.png

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