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Concentric_Killa's 2.4 Build


concentric_killa

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Lets start this out with the fact that this is my first 3d printer. I am familiar with CNC routers and large industrial equipment that use Siemens PLC's. I have some coworkers that have Prusas and Ender 3's so I know the gist of how they work. What brought me to the Voron was the fact that it had an auto gantry leveling system. I didn't want to mess with shimming the bed every time.  I sort of just dove right in and decided to build a kit from scratch. I am a mechanical engineer by trade so I do have a lot of CAD, Electrical, and coding experience.

 

With that out of the way I purchased a kit from Digital Machinery Inc. I saw someone mentioned the name on Reddit and I visited the site and then sent some emails about a 2.4 kit in the 350mm size. 

They were quick to respond. A couple days later I received an invoice and then sent payment. I assume a lot of parts are from Aliexpress, but I was able to complete the build without too many trips to the hardware store. 

As with most kits, I had to aquire the printed parts separately. I searched Etsy and purchased the essential parts out of ASA. I managed to get the parts within two weeks and by the time I got the parts, my mechanical and electrical parts from digital machinery had arrived. 

I didn't take pictures of the packaging, but it was very well packed. Everything was labeled, but it was up to me to figure out where things were actually used. 

The build took me about 40 hrs and I also had some troubleshooting to tackle as well. The Voron 2.4 CAD model was a lifesaver as  some part orientations were confusing from the Instructions (Gantry Motor Mounts). 

As for the controller, I am running the Big Tree Tech 1.1 board. I had to find a local 3d printing guy in order to print me some mounts for the Board, the Power Switch bracket, Fystec Display, and the controller fan mounts. 

I had some troubleshooting that took me a bit of time to figure out. 

- Inductive probe. The instructions are wrong with the Big Tree board on Github. The probe can be wired directly to J40 without the Diode. Originally this was split in the voron documentation between sockets J40 and J34 (had the diode)

- Fystec Display. The voron instructions are wrong. After I made a spreadsheet of the pin allocations, both EXP1 and EXP2 sockets need to be turned 180°. The instructions mention that you only need to flip the EXP 1 sockets.  I am used to following serial pin outs for work, so this didn't take much time. 

- As many people mention, You have to use the Silicone wiring for the Probe. I intially didn't follow that, and within a couple days of testing, my probe would not work and would fail in QGL. I adjusted the gantry to different positions and noticed that it occasionally worked. I have since replaced the probe cabling with silicone. 

 

I bought some 'Panduit' in order to hide the wiring on the bottom. Not sure if that was on the build list but I am familiar with it. It is a lifesaver on wire management. 

 

2024545150_PXL_20220119_191143921(1).thumb.jpg.5f20e3d97bd3643c40b4a6d67ef9516b.jpgPXL_20220125_015217508.thumb.jpg.603e832825c8c598102aafd0bf56c88c.jpg

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My first couple of prints in Mainsail. I am using Cura for the Gcode. Since I am new to printing, I am just printing in PLA. I bought some fillament from Prusa. 

Companion cube from the Portal Video Game Series.

PXL_20220202_034757060.thumb.jpg.4679617cc90392f2253216935f0ea057.jpg

 

I also did a 3d printer test. For the most part it looks like the model. The three towers in the left corner got knocked down somehow. As a result, the overhang section has some whiskers on it from the fillament not sticking to the missing tower. 

I was surprised how awesome the bridging looks. I thought it would fail at that. Some of the small font does not show up, but this might be due to my .4mm nozzle. I could buy smaller ones and see how the test goes.  This is my second print, so I need to figure out what might need to be changed. 

PXL_20220202_024802984.thumb.jpg.2a5006853fb558661cdfe80600cc4dce.jpg

PXL_20220202_024939782.thumb.jpg.faa804aa2f9a2237901d21aeba59eb47.jpg

 

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Looks great... I am waiting in the wind for my Formbot3D 2.4 kit.

May I ask you a couple of questions.

1. You mention silicone wire for the probe - can you elaborate and advise where you sourced and how it was wired up... I thought the probe itself is already wired up.

2. Who was your seller on Etsy for your ASA parts ?

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For the probe, I have docs that show J40 (the PB7 signal pin) that don't use the BAT85 diode, but it does specify bridging a 4k7 resistor between the signal and 24V pins. Did you have to do that? It's a bit confusing and seems to be changing. I'm thinking of using the J40 with 4k7 resistor for the initial build (I'm going to quickly jump to Klicky Probe after the printer works).

For printing, PETG and ABS aren't all that much harder from my limited experience on my Prusa Mini. I got a textured flex plate for the PETG and it worked almost as easily as PLA--I just need to give more time to cool after a print. I am currently printing my Trident parts in ABS on a smooth plate; I have a box over the printer and give more preheat and cool down time, and did some tuning of slicer settings but it's printing really well so far. I'm about 4 plates of parts in now.

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On 2/2/2022 at 4:03 PM, 3dKaosMonkey said:

Looks great... I am waiting in the wind for my Formbot3D 2.4 kit.

May I ask you a couple of questions.

1. You mention silicone wire for the probe - can you elaborate and advise where you sourced and how it was wired up... I thought the probe itself is already wired up.

2. Who was your seller on Etsy for your ASA parts ?

For the probe, I got it and the silicone wire from my digital machine order. They sent me rolls of 24awg and 20awg. It has a brown, black and blue wire. Its a standard omicron probe. I don't remember the actual part number. I think it's what the Voron BOM specifies. I checked the online picture of the sense, gnd, and v+ colors. 

 

I got the parts from this store (3dthatstore)

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1109325655/voron-24-asa-printed-parts-kit-better?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=voron+parts&ref=sr_gallery-1-3&pro=1&frs=1&col=1&sts=1&variation0=2384310029&variation1=2391369888

I didn't even create an account. I did however create an account as the seller sent me one wrong set of the z motor housings. It was an honest mistake. It took me 20min to figure out which part was wrong as they are mirror images. I reached out and he immediately sent the right ones. I did have to go through the list of printed parts to make sure the rest of the order was correct. Overall the experience was good.

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11 hours ago, claudermilk said:

For the probe, I have docs that show J40 (the PB7 signal pin) that don't use the BAT85 diode, but it does specify bridging a 4k7 resistor between the signal and 24V pins. Did you have to do that? It's a bit confusing and seems to be changing. I'm thinking of using the J40 with 4k7 resistor for the initial build (I'm going to quickly jump to Klicky Probe after the printer works).

For printing, PETG and ABS aren't all that much harder from my limited experience on my Prusa Mini. I got a textured flex plate for the PETG and it worked almost as easily as PLA--I just need to give more time to cool after a print. I am currently printing my Trident parts in ABS on a smooth plate; I have a box over the printer and give more preheat and cool down time, and did some tuning of slicer settings but it's printing really well so far. I'm about 4 plates of parts in now.

I did not use any resistor. The wiring diagram from big tree ( I'll have to search for it) shows only 5v on those pins. I must say that the LED is constantly on. The probe does trigger however (check with query_probe (klipper)). I am not super concerned since I might do that klicky mod as well. Sometimes my qgl fails to converge within tolerance, other times it works on the first set. 

I also noticed that sometimes I'll get a probe triggered before start error. This is related to the z tolerance. In klipper this is set to 10. It will fail at this point if the gantry is really un level. The easiest way to fix this is to make sure the gantry is close to level (move by hand) and retry qgl.  You can also increase this number to 12 or so in order to get it over a hurdle. It will then converge within tolerance (.0075mm). 

I feel like it's cheating when I run QGL. This beats shimming a build plate any day of the week. 

 

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