Filamentrix Build Diary

[mvdveer]

Seeing there is not much in the way of a manual, I decided to put together a build diary.

Firstly - print all the part for Filametrix as per the GitHub. Additionally you will have to print the Guidler A, Guidler B and Latch from the CW2 repository 

Started with the clockwork assembly. If you follow the SB manual, it is pretty much the same assembly. This build is with two toolhead sensors for the ERCF V2.

Fitted the bearings, gears and ECAS connector

              

Assembled and fitted the Guidler and latch

           

Attached the first microswitch - note the ball bearing lining up with the microswitch

     

and the second - first insert the 5.5mm ball bearing, then add the switch

   

 

Assembled and put aside

 

Next Hotend Assembly

 

 

[mvdveer]

Hotend Assembly.  

As I am a fan of the Voron Revo - this is the way I decided to go.

 

Fitted the revo

Fitted the cutting arm. ((Still awaiting M2.5x16 SHCS (weird selection of fasteners) as well as the #4 cutting blades - cannot get them easily in my area))

         

 

The BOM says to use a spring from a ball point pen. Believe me - I have many and non of them are the size described in the BOM. Ended up cutting one to length. Interestingly the tension in the gold coloured spring was much more than the silver - so ended up using that.

The BOM also mentioned a modified M3 Nut - how. Tried 3 different ways - Burring one end, drilling a partial 4mm hole, drilling a 4mm hole through the nut. Burring results were inconsistent - likely because I do not have tools sophisticated enough to accomplish this task. In the end I used the nut that I drilled a 4mm hole into.

The first two are an attempt to burr the bottom of the nut, the 3rd the partial 4mm hole and the last the 4mm hole.

   

Measured the length of PTFE tubing required, attache the modified nut and inserted into the hot end.

 

Assembled onto a Mellow Fly CNC carriage for the beacon probe.

     

 

Now I have to put it all together - ERCF, Filametrix and printer.

Will let you all know how I get along.

[Penatr8tor]

I had to look up what this was. So... It's a filament cutter and it looks like a filament sensor is also added as well.

Here's a link to the github in case anyone else would like to investigate further. 

Filametrix

This might be something cool to have even if you're not planning on building an ERCF.

[mvdveer]

6 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

It's a filament cutter and it looks like a filament sensor is also added as well.

Sorry should have clarified - this is to accompany the ERCF V2.

Yes it is a filament cutter - cuts out the need to do the filament tip tuning calibrations  There is a whole three pages dedicated to this.

And yes,  it has two sensors - one to detect the filament as it enters the extruder (before the gears) and one before it enters the hotend (after the gears).  Again it is meant to eliminate errors in Bowden Tube lengths, etc.

 

[Penatr8tor]

16 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Yes it is a filament cutter - cuts out the need to do the filament tip tuning calibrations  

The RatOS filament unload macro is doing some kind of tip creation to make loading easier next time around but, it rarely gets it right. Most of the time I get a bulge at the end that makes it tough to pull it out of the bowden tube. The sensors and cutter could be pretty useful on a non ERCF printer and also save some work if someone was considering adding one later.

Good info, Thanks @mvdveer

[PFarm]

Here are the dimensions for Happy Hare config, Phaetus Dragon with Filametrix.

 

The STL for the front half of the extruder has a cutaway for easy access to the extruder thermistor connection on the SB2209.

Edited February 25 by PFarm

[PFarm]

On 1/31/2024 at 4:52 AM, mvdveer said:

Attached the first microswitch - note the ball bearing lining up with the microswitch

     

and the second - first insert the 5.5mm ball bearing, then add the switch

   

Did you test the micro switches with filament through the extruder? I couldn't get the micro switches to trip. The only reference to wiring the micro switches is on the Happy Hare github "Hardware.cfg.md" they're wired normally open that's the Com pin and the centre pin N/O.

Edited March 5 by PFarm

[mvdveer]

2 hours ago, PFarm said:

Did you test the micro switches with filament through the extruder? I couldn't get the micro switches to trip.

Yes I did - wired NC, triggered with filament entering toolhead as well as at the beginning of the toolhead. Only tested with multimeter at this stage as these will be mounted when the printers gets updated.

[PFarm]

Well, I eventually got the micro switch to trigger more setup and calibration to move the project forward.

 

 

 

To invert the signal from the switches you need to add or subtract the "!" in the hardware.cfg

Edited March 5 by PFarm

[jutjut]

On 3/5/2024 at 8:57 AM, PFarm said:

Well, I eventually got the micro switch to trigger more setup and calibration to move the project forward.

 

To invert the signal from the switches you need to add or subtract the "!" in the hardware.cfg

I am still fighting trying to get the toolhead entry sensor to trigger. Did you end up wiring NC or NO?

[PFarm]

7 hours ago, jutjut said:

I am still fighting trying to get the toolhead entry sensor to trigger. Did you end up wiring NC or NO?

Wired them NO on both printers but \doesn't matter since they can be inverted in software. Take a look at the switch and ball bearing alignment and make sure it is orientated correctly.

[Buurman]

On 1/31/2024 at 11:08 AM, mvdveer said:

Hotend Assembly.  

As I am a fan of the Voron Revo - this is the way I decided to go.

Fitted the revo

Fitted the cutting arm. ((Still awaiting M2.5x16 SHCS (weird selection of fasteners) as well as the #4 cutting blades - cannot get them easily in my area))

The BOM also mentioned a modified M3 Nut - how. Tried 3 different ways - Burring one end, drilling a partial 4mm hole, drilling a 4mm hole through the nut. Burring results were inconsistent - likely because I do not have tools sophisticated enough to accomplish this task. In the end I used the nut that I drilled a 4mm hole into.

The first two are an attempt to burr the bottom of the nut, the 3rd the partial 4mm hole and the last the 4mm hole.

   

Measured the length of PTFE tubing required, attache the modified nut and inserted into the hot end.

 

Assembled onto a Mellow Fly CNC carriage for the beacon probe.

Now I have to put it all together - ERCF, Filametrix and printer.

Will let you all know how I get along.

Thanks, I am updating my Stealthburner, new colors, and wanted the double sensor in there, till now I have been using the single without arrors, but the ramming isnt great, I think with double sensor it will work even better.

Uhm, you are not suppose to put the PTFE tube into the NUT, just against it on the bottom.

The whole idea of the nut is that you wont ruin your PTFE tube by putting so much pressure on it during cutting, thats why you have the insert on top and the nut on the bottom, just take out the threads, so its a lottle smoother, thats all, cut your PTFE tube a little shorter so it sits on the bottom of the nut.

It aint perfect... but because its exactly inbetween two parts, a fixed solution isnt really possible, or someone needs to come up with one..

I am in no position to critism your beatiful work, so its not meant that way, the manual is seriously lacking on github, so this guide is really helping, im trying to avoid the extra work and possibly, future damages, because quite some force is on the ptfe tube otherwise and it will change form possibly...

[Buurman]

That said, what cable door are you using for the SB using Filamentrix CW2 and the double sensor? 

I cant seem to find a fitting one.

 

[mvdveer]

7 minutes ago, Buurman said:

That said, what cable door are you using for the SB using Filamentrix CW2 and the double sensor? 

I cant seem to find a fitting one.

I think this is the one - Cable door. I also got the SB2040 Cable door to fit.

As I want to switch to Galileo2, I am going to try this one - has a cable door as part of the stl's

[Buurman]

3 minutes ago, mvdveer said:

I think this is the one - Cable door. I also got the SB2040 Cable door to fit.

No, too bad doesnt fit.

But I will switch to this CW2 body anyhow, since I dont like the sensor attachment in the original, this one screws from the bottom, what I also thought immidiatly putting it together.

https://www.printables.com/model/826480-filametrix-body-cw2-for-sb2209sb2240-with-dual-fil/files