Foam tape

[YaaJ]

Foam tape has to be applied to the panels. 2.4 : 1mm on top and back, 3mm on sides.

Why the panels ? Why not the extrusions ? When replacing the adhesive foam in the future, cleaning extrusions could be easier, as acrylic doesn't like solvents, including IPA.

Only example I found with foam on the extrusions if for the doors.

(spent some time refoaming speakers, foams will fail one day or the other, and its a pain to replace)

[claudermilk]

It's easier to deal with when doing any maintenance on the printer. Nero has mentioned it a few times; he put foam on the extrusions on one of his early printers and has mentioned regretting it. All the more recent ones it's on the panels.

Yes, replacing foam tape is a pain. I'd rather deal with a panel that's off the printer than the frame personally.

[PFarm]

I do see what @YaaJ is saying I just dealt with that myself, I'd installed the wrong thickness of foam on the door frame. The residual foam/glue was easily removed using Acetone. That being said I do have foam installed on the side panels and top but on the frame for door and rear panel. 

[YaaJ]

Thanks for your answers !
But isn't acetone a solvent for both acrylic and polycarbonate ?

Will be done the classic way. I understood that foam has to be on the frame for the door, being the exception...

Unfortunately, english not being my native language, listening to streams while doing something else is difficult. Miss half of the information !

[PFarm]

I wouldn't use Acetone on the panels themselves but on the aluminum frame, there is no issue.

[YaaJ]

38 minutes ago, PFarm said:

I wouldn't use Acetone on the panels themselves but on the aluminum frame, there is no issue.

Just tested : the LDO Misumi powder coating is acetone resistant (AFAIK, LDO ships Misumi extrusions ?).

What problem did Nero the Canuck Creator (his new name) encounter after sticking the adhesive foam to the extrusions ?

Nero is a member of the Voron Team, isn't he ? And he's a former machinist in the injection molding industry ?

Edited January 24 by YaaJ

[Printer Mike]

I use a heat gun (not to much heat) to soften the glue, then removing the foam. Then I use WD-40 on a cloth to rub off the glue residue. Works surprisingly wel and easy.

[YaaJ]

Thanks for the trick !
Never though of using heat. If needed, wil be a job for the SMD rework station (adjustable heat and flow).

Now remebering that they use such tools when replacing phone screens in repair shops !

Edited January 25 by YaaJ

[claudermilk]

20 hours ago, YaaJ said:

Just tested : the LDO Misumi powder coating is acetone resistant (AFAIK, LDO ships Misumi extrusions ?).

What problem did Nero the Canuck Creator (his new name) encounter after sticking the adhesive foam to the extrusions ?

Nero is a member of the Voron Team, isn't he ? And he's a former machinist in the injection molding industry ?

He is and he was. IIRC, he said it's a pain to deal with when doing maintenance or mods. I think because the foam tends to get damaged while working on the printer. Then it's a mess to clean off the frame & replace. With it on the panels, it's out of the way while working on the printer.

Ultimately it is up to you to decide where to attach the foam. I put mine on the panels and haven't needed to do anything with it since; I'm happy to not have it on the frame while I am working on the printer.

[YaaJ]

36 minutes ago, claudermilk said:

because the foam tends to get damaged while working on the printer

Makes perfect sense. Will be mounted on the panels and doors.

Thanks !

Luckily, at this point, they are not mounted anywhere. Luckily...

(because had to take the deck and bed apart : completely forgot to breakout USB + power for a future ERCF )

[SuperBoppy]

Don't use Acetone to remove adhesive. Use mineral spirits, paint thinner, or VMP naphtha. They will work just as well, albeit a little slower, and will not harm finishes or plastic.