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Voron Trident 300 from old CoreXY


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Built a pretty basic CoreXY last year but had several issues with bed levelling, build size etc. etc. so decided to bite the bullet and go for a Voron Trident build using many of the old CoreXY parts.

I've been printing off parts on my Delta and Ender 3 and bought a LDO frame kit for a 300 as many of the old 2020 extrusions were too short.

Been going well and put together a StealthBurner using my old Orbiter V2 using the mods from this site (thank you). Having so many wires coming from the head I thought I might try Can Bus with this build.

What a minefield! My old board is a BTT Manta M8P with a CB1 module fitted but it's a version 1.0 which I discovered has not got CAN support. This means, I think, I have to fit a U2C board as well to interface between the EBB 36 CAN and the Manta M8P?

Am I just asking for trouble with this approach or is there a better way?


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I'm personally still avoiding CAN. Sure it works as evidenced by the many people here and on Voron's forum using it. But it's also still fraught an not easy--also as evidenced by all the threads requesting help for various issues from CAN.

I have the hartk 2-piece PCB setup in my Stealthburner and I like it. Easy to set up, reduced the wire count to 14 (or 16 accounting for the NeoPixels) and made it an easy, pre-made harness. It also avoids all the CAN extra headaches.

But that's just my $0.02.

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Thanks for your comments and help. I'm going to battle on with CAN as I do like the idea of not dragging so many wires around. I did look at the 2-piece PCB setup but again still too many wires. Ordered the boards from BTT so it will be about 3 weeks before I see them in England 😪 Still more time to get my head around CAN.

I've still got my Delta and Ender 3 so not short of machines!


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