madmike's Voron 2.4

[madmike46]

I thought I would start a thread here of my Voron, I never took enough pictures of the actual build.  I self sourced all parts and printed all the ABS parts on my Ender 3 with Sprite extruder. I just have to source out my side and top panels then I am pretty much done.  Some photos?

The 3rd part printed a Benchy at 200%,

The second Benchy photo has lines on the bow,is that from z shift?  Or was it the printed parts all settling in place?

[madmike46]

The only tuning I have done to this point is calibrate the extruder and I did PID on nozzle and bed.  Going to set up ADXL345 today, hopefully have no issues doing that.

[YaaJ]

You machined adjustable bed mounts for tramming. Didn't you ?

Isn't the bow for showing part cooling issues ? Could be interesting to see the same profile, the model being oriented diagonally (45°). Or even at 90°.

Edited January 11 by YaaJ

[Dirk]

Better late than never
Nice printer, also nice workbench

2 hours ago, madmike46 said:

printed parts all settling in place

I think this. Check if there are any screws to 're-tighten'. 

[madmike46]

3 hours ago, YaaJ said:

You machined adjustable bed mounts for tramming. Didn't you ?

Isn't the bow for showing part cooling issues ? Could be interesting to see the same profile, the model being oriented diagonally (45°). Or even at 90°.

They are actually bed clamps, my heat pad didn't have cut outs for normal bed mounting, so I machined these brackets and the mount basically just sits on hem and the screws keep the plate from sliding when tipped over on it's side to work on.

[YaaJ]

Designed like low profile milling clamps ?
Aren't they fighting against the thermal horizontal expansion ? Maybe it could explain the lines you show on the benchy.

The extrusions are made of aluminium, but heat up to a a lower temperature, at a different rate. Could they make the bed bow ? Made me think of something similar, just adding springs.

I don't know... Just wondering, while thinking of designing and machining DIY kinematic bed mounts.

[madmike46]

I did a little more tuning, now have Input Shaper going.  I went through and checked all the bolts, a few needed a little snugging up, but pretty good for about 12 hours of print time now.  I'll print another Benchy and see if the lines are still there.  What are you guys doing to enhance your WiFi to your printers?  I am out in the garage and at times I have to tip printer on it's side for WiFi to work.  I like being able to slice parts in the house and then being able to download to printer with out any micro sd cards.

[Dirk]

The main reason I wanted to have klipper on my sidewinder x2 (it comes with an old marlin version), was because I wanted to use wifi to upload a sliced file directly instead of walking to the printer with an sd card, and a webcam to see what was going on.

You can use a slicer that supports uploading to the url of your mainsail / moonraker. Super slicer supports this, cura needs a plugin for moonraker. I believe Orcaslicer even has the mainsail/fluid interface directly inside the program.

All you need to do is hook up a webcam coupled to your Pi and you can initiate, watch and control everything from your living room

There are also advanced options for people with printer farms, and automated homes, not there yet

[mvdveer]

19 minutes ago, madmike46 said:

What are you guys doing to enhance your WiFi to your printers? 

I run an Ubiquiti Alienmesh in the house. But any mesh system will work. If you want to save money then a wi-fi repeater compatible with your system should do the job.

20 minutes ago, madmike46 said:

I am out in the garage

Same here and the above system has not failed me yet

  

 

[madmike46]

A few photos I did take:

[Dirk]

Sorry, I understood the question wrong. Thanks @mvdveer for giving the right answer. 

I used to use wifi-repeaters, but my fiberglass provider also offered a better-connectivity in the house option which was a deco system. It's cheap and it looks a lot like @mvdveer's system. I use the connection as a second router/firewall/parental-control, but it offers much more. 

[madmike46]

Did a little more tuning and printed another Voron test cube.  I think I have pretty much dialed in now.  Last photo is in the Z axis.

[madmike46]

What's everyone's thoughts on the E3D Revo Voron hot end?  I have the 24 volt model, seams to work well so far, nozzles are pricey but I do like the ability to change nozzles with no tools involved, I always cringed changing nozzles on my Ender 3.  I have been melting pla at 10-11 mm3/s.  I have to look up and see if that's good or not.  Makes for printing two times faster then my Ender.

[mvdveer]

37 minutes ago, madmike46 said:

What's everyone's thoughts on the E3D Revo Voron hot end?

I have them on all my printers except the VZBOT which has a Rapido hot end. The only issue was that initially these units had faulty heaters (not all, but some batches) This was corrected and since then no issues at all. Prints great at the speeds I print. And there is a selection - Normal, high flow and hardened (Oxidian)

[claudermilk]

I love mine, like @mvdveer I have them on all my printers. They aren't the fastest out there, but I'm not doing #speedboatraces. After the initial teething problems with thermistors were resolved, they are rock solid (I have two pre-order era Revos, one went through two faulty thermistors, one is still on the original).

The nozzle swapping is stupid easy. There have been days where I've swapped multiple times between two or three nozzles, all it takes is waiting until they cool enough to touch them. With Tap on the Trident that's it; on the V0.2 I have to fiddle with offset a bit, but once dialed back in it's off to the races. I have every sie between 0.15mm and 0.8mm; I haven't messed with the 0.8mm yet because I don't have a lot of jobs it's suited for. The 0.25 and 0.15 are great for really fine detail--I'm chasing near-resin quality for miniatures and am just about there.

Edit: I almost forgot one point I wanted to make regarding the nozzle prices. Yes, they are higher than a V6 style nozzle. But if you add a heatbreak to that price you actually get close to the same price--at least last time I checked when picking the Revo. The Revo nozzle is actually a nozzle and heatbreak in one; that's one of the advantages: that seam no longer exists so the possible seepage problem is eliminated.

[YaaJ]

1 hour ago, claudermilk said:

The 0.25 and 0.15 are great for really fine detail

At first didn't want to use the Revo's that came with the kits. Then started to love them. Got HF and Obxidian kits, and replaced the heaters with 60W ones. Because always hitting the flow wall on the v0.2.

Didn't purchase the smaller ones (0.25 and 0.15), because I very rarely need to print tiny details. Until today, because I have a bunch of SB V6 cardridges, modded for labels (nozzle size and type : CHT and hardened). How to label the Revo cardridge ? A Sanjay silhouette, of course. No 0.25 or 0.15... Tested with the 0.4 HF. Quality is excellent ! (the model itself is taken from the marking on the Revo cardridge, didn't draw it myself ; it was made by the Voron team, and made to be printed with a 0.4 obviously...)

The labels are 11mm diameter.

The SB on the first picture was printed with a V6 + CHT on the slinger. The Sanjay's were printed on the 0.2 with a 60W Revo, 0.4 HF nozzle.

Made me have a look to the 0.15 and 0.25... And discovered that counterfeits do exist on Amazon... (and aren't even cheap !)

I always had much better results with genuine E3D and BMG V6 nozzles, than with generic ones.

The Revo with a 60W heater and HF nozzles can print really fast ; at least with "normal" nozzles.

[Dirk]

22 hours ago, madmike46 said:

...thoughts on the E3D Revo Voron hot end?

I have considered purchasing this hotend designed by the Voron team. I am impressed with happiness of experienced printers on this forum. If you do a simple search for "revo voron" on this forum, you will see numerous posts discussing it. The one that was quite relevant to me was this one.

My Voron 2.4 kit came with the E3D V6 kit. I can purchase a complete kit, for 6,29 euros, including shipping, taxes. A revo voron / micro would cost me 143 to 160 euros. 

When I want to buy a nozzle for my E3D V6, I can buy 5 CHT nozzles for 3 euros. Good quality heatbreaks cost max 10 euros. One nozzle for the revo voron costs 20-90 euros (china clone - original-hardenened steel).

I tried to find a justification for paying not 10 times, but 25 times more money for a hotend, which as most others can tell, has only a single positive advantage above others: 'single handed nozzle change'. 

I have yet to find a good reason to use larger or smaller nozzles for my 'hobby' purposes.

I decided to buy a Phaetus Rapido Plus HF/UHF, for 80 euros instead. The 0.4 as well as the 0.8 nozzle were in the package. After using it only a few times, I liked it so much that I bought 2 more. 

I do not see much more than the hype created around the revo VORON. And despite all the positive experience, I still can not see a single reason for me to buy one.

 

 

 

 

Edited January 14 by Dirk

[YaaJ]

26 minutes ago, Dirk said:

good reason to use larger or smaller nozzles

IMO, one only. Designing structural parts made to be printed with walls being a multiple (or near to) of the nozzle diameter, and wanting to iterate quickly from one prototype to the other, not wanting to wait overnight for a print to complete. Swapping nozzles is a pain. Reason why one of my very first designs was a quick change hotend system (full V6 and Volcanos hotends with fans). Arachne was a game changer, and made such designs a lot easier, much less picky with wall widths.

Apart from this specific context, it is probably not interesting. And far from being cheap.

[claudermilk]

To be clear, on the Revo Voron, the heat sink was designed by the Voron team; the rest is stock E3D. I have two Revo Vorons (in the Trident and V0) and a Micro (on the Prusa Mini). If you aren't changing nozzles at all, there's no driving reason to get one so no big deal; if you do change nozzles it's a great design. I note that there's at least one or two other hot ends on the market now offering a similar feature, so E3D clearly had a good idea.

[Dirk]

Also my (referred post) point

The name VORON makes it sell better than the name E3D alone apparently. 

1 hour ago, claudermilk said:

If you aren't changing nozzles

Not an expert, but I believe nozzles are designed to be changed. Of course not as easy on the revo voron, but I have seen a lot of quite smart solutions.

[madmike46]

I printed up this spinner, and I was wondering if the line is a slicer setting or a printer.cfg setting?  You can catch your finger nail in it.  

[Dirk]

I do not think it has anything to do with clipper settings. 

I have had something similar with a model: superslicer would leave a gap at a junction. Superslicer showed a message (triangle with an exclamation, if I remember right) in the model window, with an option to 'repair' the model. Initially I had not seen that message, so I got a model with a gap. but after the repair, the gap had closed.

I would suggest you look in the sliced preview of your slicer to see if the same gap appears or not. And if it is also in the model.

If it had something to do with the 'printer.cfg' clipper settings, it would have to be something like under-extrusion, low pressure advance and a few more I suppose, but those would not be so structural. I think.

[claudermilk]

22 hours ago, Dirk said:

Also my (referred post) point

The name VORON makes it sell better than the name E3D alone apparently. 

Not an expert, but I believe nozzles are designed to be changed. Of course not as easy on the revo voron, but I have seen a lot of quite smart solutions.

 It might. The heatsink is smaller than other designs, so is custom-designed for the Stealthburner tool head. 

Indeed, the V6 nozzles are replaceable, just not nearly as easy as the Revo design. I wouldn't be swapping nozzles on a V6 style with the wild abandon that I do with the Revo (gonna swap to the 0.25 today for a project change).

[YaaJ]

Replacing V6 nozzles is a real pain on the Stealthburner. Not much room to hold the heatblock ; the heatsink is not indexed, and rotates when untightening/retightening. V6 hotends are so cheap ! At least they were before EU added VAT and importation taxes... Even the GX12 were like 2 or 3 Euros for 10 units (male + socket).

The Stealthburner is designed for swapping cardridges. The Afterburner too, isn't it ?

Just completed a batch, made from all the old Ali spare parts. (purchased like 4 or 5 years back)

Nostalgia... The kits came with Revos...

 

Edited January 16 by YaaJ

[claudermilk]

LOL, that's a different way to do it. Props on thinking outside the box.