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LDO LED stripes


YaaJ

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The LDO kit came with 2 LED stripes.

Rather warm white (no RGB), 10mm 8mm width, the stripe can be cut every 50mm, and 6 LEDs / 50mm (=120 LED/m), I see no reference, and these stripes don't even appear in the BOM (only in the FAQ)
They fit these bar clips : https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/master/printer_mods/eddie/LED_Bar_Clip

I'd like to add a third one (left front and right) and make them dimmable independantly because why not ; I know nothing about LED stripes

3000K ? 4000K ? I'd say 4000, at most 5000, sure it isn't 6000. I'd like to buy the same...

Edited by YaaJ
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Nobody answered this idiot, I will...

Whatever LED stripe you buy, you will get enough length for the whole printer, your 0.2, your bed slinger, your wife, her sister and a couple of neighbours. And all the lightings will be assorted. Order 5 meter of warm white, 120 LEDs/meter, and stop asking stupid questions !

(I'm sure everybody was thinking this 🤦‍♂️ )

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I have a pair of sticks (not matchsticks) on the 0.2, had to cut one LED off from each. Moreover, it is RGB, not RGBW. Really not happy.

Tomorrow, should receive 5 meters of COB LED stripe, 4000K, 384 LEDs/meter, 10W/m, 100 lumens/W, 24V, can be cut every 42mm ; 5 meter = 25 €

Not a great fan of RGB, except the BARF mod. 4000K is not ideal for shooting pictures, but 5500/6000 is too "agressive" (have a adjustable 3000/4500/6000 or so adjustable lighting for the workbench).

COB : more LEDs, looking like a "neon" ; they are narrower (5mm vs 8mm), should fit the Zero. Discovered COB stripes yesterday...

image.png.3638634059580d776c58776ac7c912ec.png

Will have to design something for the Zero, and remix Eddy the Engineer diffusers for the 2.4.

On the Zero, the Picobilical RGB outputs will not be usable. Will have to switch to CANBUS (already have the EBB36 for it), and free the toolhead MOSFET in order to make them dimmable. I plan to use 4 or 5 : 2 under the Y rails, 2 or 3 in the hat (or even 4).

Of course, I'll update this thread and share the designs. Designs that most likely already exist... But designing is fun.

It's incredible how these two japanese researchers changed the world with this idea of LEDs producing UVs and fluorescence. They made what fluorescent lights were doing for decades, but nobody was doing with LEDs. They made the electrical companies save trillions of euros or dollars in copper (the copper industry most likely hate them !).

Edited by YaaJ
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Completely forgot to search for RGBW ; only not too cold white, not thinking that red/yellow would have adjusted the light ! Just had a look on Amazon, and there's a lot more offers. Even COB. RGB being a bonus. At the same price or even lower.
Too late... They will be delivered within 10 hours from now...

 

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Return of experience :

Happy with these LED stripes. The color temperature is exactly what I needed.

https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B09XX4H23J?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Not super powerfull, but will be more than enough. Installed left, front, and right. Had to remix the Eddy's blocks : these blocks, according to the STEP files, are for 5.8 mm, and didn't hold tight enough. Resized the clips for 6mm (20x20 LDO extrusions I got). Of course had to resize the stripe path. Will upload the remixed files soon, the remix is reliable and will not require the 500 to 1000 hours I consider as a minimum for structural parts.

One advantage of COB stripes : so many tiny LEDs that we don't have to care about their alignment. On the other hand, 42mm sections is a bit long. Perfect for a 2.4/350, not sure it is suitable for 300 or 250. But should be just perfect for a 0.1/0.2

Made them dimmable, hooking them to HE1, HE2 and HE3. AWG22 wires. They produce very little heat.

[EDIT] uploaded the files

LED_Bar_Clip_Misumi_version2_COB_MOD.STL LED_Bar_Clip_Misumi_version2_COB_MOD.STEP

Edited by YaaJ
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  • 7 months later...

What are you guys using to glue these buggers in place, I have similar LED strips on both my v2.4 and vz330. 

They both have drooping LEDs!

I've tried superglue, hot glue and double sided carpet tape - none of them held for more than a day.

The heat loosens the glues.

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2 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

What are you guys using to glue these buggers in place, I have similar LED strips on both my v2.4 and vz330. 

They both have drooping LEDs!

I've tried superglue, hot glue and double sided carpet tape - none of them held for more than a day.

The heat loosens the glues.

Proper Cyanoacrylate glue should hold up to 250°C. That is all that holds the differiential IR probe onto the toolhead of my V0.1 and it has lasted over a year. You just have to make sure to hold everything in place till it sets. It helps to use gel so that it fills the gap better. 

Edited by atrushing
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1 hour ago, atrushing said:

Proper Cyanoacrylate glue should hold up to 250°C. That is all that holds the differiential IR probe onto the toolhead of my V0.1 and it has lasted over a year. You just have to make sure to hold everything in place till it sets. It helps to use gel so that it fills the gap better. 

I've now got some engineering Cyanoacrylatewith activator, I'll give that a try.

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29 minutes ago, TitusADuxass said:

I've now got some engineering Cyanoacrylatewith activator, I'll give that a try.

I was looking into thermal expansion because, if it is a longer strip mounted onto a printed piece, the ABS can expand up to 0.5mm over 300mm with a 25°C change in chamber temperature. That might be enough to break a rigid glue bond loose over time while I wouldn't have any issues with a small probe.

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7 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

What are you guys using to glue these buggers in place, I have similar LED strips on both my v2.4 and vz330. 

They both have drooping LEDs!

I've tried superglue, hot glue and double sided carpet tape - none of them held for more than a day.

The heat loosens the glues.

Cyano works but it's rigid when cured and if what you're glueing expands and contracts, that can eventually lead to cyclic fatigue.

You can also try 3M 5925 VHB tape. It's compliant so that expansion/contraction won't break the bond and also has a long-term heat resistance of ~90c. Basically, it's the same stuff that automakers use to stick logos on cars and bond windows in on skyscrapers.

image.png.749af45956ef34980063652e0cfdcd4b.png

I'm not saying don't use CA, just that if you think tape would be easier to apply, then this would be the specific tape to use.

p.s. it probably won't work well for carpets. 😬😄

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15 hours ago, Penatr8tor said:

Cyano works but it's rigid when cured and if what you're glueing expands and contracts, that can eventually lead to cyclic fatigue.

You can also try 3M 5925 VHB tape. It's compliant so that expansion/contraction won't break the bond and also has a long-term heat resistance of ~90c. Basically, it's the same stuff that automakers use to stick logos on cars and bond windows in on skyscrapers.

image.png.749af45956ef34980063652e0cfdcd4b.png

I'm not saying don't use CA, just that if you think tape would be easier to apply, then this would be the specific tape to use.

p.s. it probably won't work well for carpets. 😬😄

I never thought about using VHB.

I'll give it a try, but it didn't hold up well in my camper when it got hot.

It normally sticks like the proverbial to an army blanket.

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5 hours ago, TitusADuxass said:

I never thought about using VHB.

I'll give it a try, but it didn't hold up well in my camper when it got hot.

It normally sticks like the proverbial to an army blanket.

VHB tape needs a clean oil free surface to get a good bond so I'm really careful about touching surfaces to be bonded with naked fingers. Most of my problems with VHB tape not sticking is from the ends where I grabbed it so, now I let the tape I touched hang over and I clip it off.

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