Paul T's Voron 2.4 Build

[Paul Trautner]

On 2/3/2024 at 2:46 PM, atrushing said:

It depends on just how much plastic you want to push or how fast you are trying to go. That plus your budget..

The Rapido/Dragon UHF versions as well as the VolcoMosq require shrouds that are 8.5mm longer. The Dragon ACE and the T-Volcano (requires some assembly..) are more compact while still having a lot of heater block mass. I will be trying out the CHCB-V V6DM soon, it has a 70W ceramic plate heater and a taller melt zone and is pretty low cost (~$40). The Dragon HF is supposed to be able to do 30mm^3/sec and is the same size as a Dragon ST.

 

The Triangle labs Dragon Ace caught my eye but right now I would say if the cost is less than 120 I would want the best option for flexibility. I print 0.4mm nozzle at 0.2mm layer height mostly so I don't need crazy flow but I do want to use the full potential of the Voron 2.4, my current Rapido V1 has treated me well and with a CHT nozzle has great flow which is why I am leaning towards the V2. Only thing I don't like about the option is how you need to bend the wires to fit in the Stealthburner body. 

[atrushing]

8 hours ago, Paul Trautner said:

I don't need crazy flow but I do want to use the full potential of the Voron 2.4

I have mostly used the Dragonfly but when bumping up the speeds to around 240mm/sec I hit the 20mm^3/sec flow limits of it. Phaetus says that the Dragon ST has less flow than the Dragonfly but the Dragon HF is supposed to be good for 30mm^3/sec. I haven't really been able to test it yet though..

One problem I've heard that comes from the really high flow nozzles is that they tend to ooze more and can cause stringing.

Edited February 5 by atrushing
added flow calculator link

[Dirk]

I have several Rapido's. The one I use with my 2.4 is a UHF where I use cheap CHT nozzles I bought off of AliExpress for 4 euros per 5 pieces.

I used (amongst others) two sites to read about flow and so on... Of course all my knowledge starts Ellis's guide. (He should have written and published an e-book online). In his templates for super slicer he sets the Rapido UHF with CHT nozzle at 45mm3/s.

I followed this beautiful video from CNC Kitchen - Hallo Stefan, and I can extrude just above 45mm3/s without a problem with my Rapido UHF and Cheap chinese (volcano) CHT nozzle. According to the formula given by Ellis on the linked page, I set my max printing speed to 450mm/s, with typical Voron Print settings (ABS, 0.2mm layer, 0.4mm nozzle) and I get quite accurate prints. All looks good, even though I do not think I match the speed of a printer with 48v AB drivers, it looks fast, at 450mm/s and 12.000mm/s2 acceleration.

oozing.. euh... I did not notice it. In any way, it is not very noticable. Not with ABS. (PETG is a different story).

I would recommend to perform the test from Hallo Stefan if there is any doubt (or just to see the cool droppings on your plate).

 

[Paul Trautner]

Upgraded the hotend to a HF Rapido and the Galileo 2 extruder and the layer consistency is perfectly stacked even under harsh light. I switched from the HGX large gear extruder and can say the Galileo 2 is worth the money. Now I just need to decide if I switch back to the idm scanner or keep the chaotic lab tap system. Both have their pros/cons. 

[Dirk]

6 hours ago, Paul Trautner said:

Both have their pros/cons

You are very right. If you do not want to have any 'update' problems with Klipper, stick with TAP

Now seriously: TAP is known to be very accurate, and it is a simple thing: pure mechanics (when you do not count in the optical sensor). However this is also its weak point in my opinion. I have also ventilated my idea about 'moving parts' in mechanics and its life-time on this forum about a discussion where the advise was to buy hardware parts from China instead of printing / reprinting them TAP is now in its 8th revision I believe. I printed a r8 the last time. With two long screws in it to make it sturdier. I have been using this one for many hundreds of hours. I did have to disassemble my toolhead to tighten / refit / adjust all screws and even re-adjust the rail of the tap. This is in my opinion the weakest point of TAP.

In an environment where you heat up metal / plastic and then cool it off, and have it move, parts will move in time. Which will make it require 'maintenance'. And with a bit of bad luck, failed prints and lost hours.

I know it takes a long time to tap the whole print area before printing, but as you also know it is well worth the few minutes you add to your printing time.

The IDM / Beacon / Cartographer probes do remove this few minutes extra time. But they also remove the need for a sturdy body, extra weight, but above all the extra maintenance that is required. In turn you have the hassles with the software updates and probable problems with overheating of the chip (IDM/Carto), possible effects of heat shift to the accuracy.

I would say: if you have a working combination which makes printing fun for you, stick with it.