Raspberry Pi5, 3D printer set up guide

[Graymattor]

Hi All,

I am new to all things Rasberry Pi, but now I have an RPi5 I want to install it in my 3D printer environment (over kill I know,bought on a whim!).. im looking for a good guide that runs through set up of software (klipper), any sort of useful software addons  etc (if thats possible) and connecting up the hardware, eg. I have a meanwell 5V 75w PSU to power it, but how best to do it? I've read issues about GPIO pins, and are the lower rated? The RPi5 can consume 5amps, not likely in a 3D printer, but I'd rather not risk any issues! Also I'd like to connect a BTT HDMI7 if its possible! Printer wise it will just be a USB..

I'm only use tob the sonic pad so, looking forward to having a proper set up.

Any help would be appreciated, I've no ideacwhat or how best to set up to get the most out of it 

Thanks in advance 

[claudermilk]

You're forging a new path since these just hit the market. I would imagine setup will be much like a Pi 3 or 4. Install Debian Lite, then KIAUH and use that to install the required printer components. See here. For power, I have no advice on the Pi5. On my Pi4 in my Trident I use the GPIO. It's worked perfectly fine for me. The only hiccup I ran into was I initially only had one 5V pin hooked up; that worked for a while then started throwing intermittent undervolt errors. I added the second 5V pin and it's been rock solid ever since. I'm running it on the Octopus 5V rail which has enough capacity for the Pi and the NeoPixels I have attached (36 case, 2 Stealthburner nozzle, and the 10 LED Rainbow Barf logo).

[Graymattor]

Thanks, that's perfect, the info I was looking for, I cannot imagine the RPi5 being any different to an RPi3 or 4 from an install point of view. I'm very new to Linux, etc so going to be quite challenging! 

I did read about powering off GPIO pins, but there were issues, if your running all that off 2x 5v pins I think I'll be absolutely fine, did you double up on the GND pins as well? 

My trouble may come with the HDMI7, I doubt that's straight forward to install and get working! 

Thanks

[YaaJ]

There's no issue with the GPIO. Just some people warning that there's no protection (they are not wrong !) : normally, there's a polyfuse in series with the power in, and this polyfuse is not in the circuit when powering the Pi through the GPIO.

The LDO Voron kits come with a mini shield for power, that has a polyfuse onboard.

I've been powering Pi's for years through the GPIO, with no fuse, using chinese LM2596 buck converters knockoffs, and no issues. These buck converters cannot source 5 amps (3 amps max), but are fine for older Pi's !

This being said, a fuse is more for the power line protection than for the device protection. It will prevent the power wires from melting or catching fire, but if the Pi draws too much currrent by itself, it's already shot ! (could also be some peripheral powered by the GPIO and drawing too much current : the fuse will protect the trace on the PCB)

The polyfuse is F3 (not a Pi 5, do not take "700mA" into account !) ; the TVR (D17) is protecting the Pi against transients ; it protects the Pi, even when powered by the GPIO :

- Power in = VIN
- GPIO power = +5V0

Currently have a printer with a Pi 3 B+ and a HDMI 7" (Waveshare, and previously an other -crappy- one), powered by the Pi USB ; does not draw much current. Could measure if you want. 0.5 A or so IIRC.

[EDIT] the USB A sockets have their own polyfuses

Edited November 28, 2023 by YaaJ

[claudermilk]

I'm certainly no expert on the circuitry of a Pi, so keep that in mind. I have been under the impression that the Pi 3 and older had no protection on the GPIO, but the 4 has it. 

@Graymattor I did not double up the grounds. My total harness now is 2 5V wires, a gnd, and the Tx & Rx. 5 total. I am running my Waveshare 4.3" screen off the DSI on the Pi as well.

[Graymattor]

@YaaJ thank you for the detailed information, its great to know that these SFC are quite resilient! How did you get on with the HDMI7, did you needvto install any drivers, etc? Or just plug and play?

@claudermilk noted, appreciate the info

 

it looks like doubled up GPIO is the simplist way forward, my other option was to purchase a USB C Pigtail but all seem to be 3amp rated or purchase a high power USB C cable and cut it up, but my issue then is getting the power pins right, not sure how easy that would be and if it would even work!

[YaaJ]

HDMI : it was P&P ; the parameters in config.txt ("boot" partition were for taking full advantage of the display ; just Ctrl-C/Ctrl-V the couple of lines from the instructions. Touch interface, USB or DSI, is 100% P&P. Also tested on PC : P&P. No difference with any monitor. No drrivers. They come with Raspi OS.

For the power, maybe you could pick one of those things... The tiny thing with the screw terminal ; it is the LDO mini shield. It breaks out :

- power (with the polyfuse)
- the 1st serial (UART) port
- the 1st SPI port (flat cable connector, for their accelerometer)

as you can see, it is super cheap. And it is not for Pi Zero only ! It is for all Pi's :

https://www.onetwo3d.co.uk/product/ldo-pi-zero-power-pcb/

Or make this horror (ghetto version, been using those for years, and one still is attached to a 5V/5A SMPSU, just in case ! One has pins for a serial port, good old times with Marlin/Octoprint. Some epoxy goo adds isolation :

Sourcing connector ? Search for "PC100" pin headers. They have super long pins, PC100 being a '90s industrial ancestor of the Raspberry (embeded, stackable Intel 8086 boards). No fuse because of... lazyness...

[Graymattor]

@YaaJ thank you, again great info, good to know the HDMI7 is P&P, but being a total newbie with the RPi I may be back with more questions! 

The LDO power breakout board looks ideal, but none in stock and a Google brought nothing up, so may have to go direct to the GPIO pins! 

Would something like this work? Hook up the V+ and GND to the 5V PSU and then use a USB C cable? 
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrQkj5q

trying to think of a way to maintain some protection just in case 

 

 

 

 

[YaaJ]

Yes. But no strain relief... I'd rather cut in half a charging cable.

Many solutions, like  these adapters, more reliable :

[Graymattor]

I was looking at cutting up a cable, but not cables for charge only, a charge only cable like that would be better to cut up and run a USB C from the PSU

Will have a look for something like that, it would be my preference..

[claudermilk]

Cool, I didn't know the LDO Pi GPIO board was available separately. I have one of those on my Pi3 in my LDO V0.2 kit and it's easy-peasy to install. It also has the connections for the ADLX345 integrated (that little ribbon cable connector at the bottom). So much easier than building a DIY cable; I think I rechecked mine about 8 times before plugging in and applying power (worth it, it worked right off).

[Graymattor]

Is this the same thing? Would it power the RPi? 

https://www.onetwo3d.co.uk/product/ldo-input-shaper-kit/

[YaaJ]

Yes !

This the fully loaded kit.

Note that the tiny flat cable has to go from the mini shield to the accelerometer. It can be a pain (and it will be !). Extenders do exist. You can purchase FPC connectors mounted on a small PCB, and install one in the chamber. If you do this, beware of the extension cable. Contacts have to be on each side, unlike the cable that goes from the Pi to the ADXL. Not sure 8pin 1mm pitch modules that do the swap exist...

[Graymattor]

49 minutes ago, YaaJ said:

Yes !

This the fully loaded kit.

Note that the tiny flat cable has to go from the mini shield to the accelerometer. It can be a pain (and it will be !). Extenders do exist. You can purchase FPC connectors mounted on a small PCB, and install one in the chamber. If you do this, beware of the extension cable. Contacts have to be on each side, unlike the cable that goes from the Pi to the ADXL. Not sure 8pin 1mm pitch modules that do the swap exist...

Brilliant, thanks for confirming, I will go a head and order one....

Soooooo... I wasn't thinking this far a head, in fact the ADXL wasn't in my mind at all!! My RPi is being mounted external of the printer and enclosure (in a remote panel enclosure) so I will need so sort of long ribbon cable and bulk head connectors! Does a long distance cause any issues? I'm looking at around 1m in distance!! I will need to do the same with the USB to the printer board! 

There is always a can of worms waiting to be opened

(I'm building a version of the JKTech enclosure but wanted the main power and RPi remote from the printer room! The enclosure will have an ERCF bult in to it, so I liked the idea of easily switching printers, no idea why, just wanted to think waaaaay a head) 

[YaaJ]

Guess what...

The flat cable that comes with the LDO kit is... 1 meter long !

Edited November 29, 2023 by YaaJ

[Graymattor]

Perfect

[claudermilk]

 WTH is that box? There's three power supplies, one of which looks a lot like the typical 5V one for separately powering a Pi, and an intense-looking Sonoff smart home switch.

[Graymattor]

it's the main power panel for the enclosure! 

It does have a beefy sonoff switch, 3x meanwell PSU, 24V 350W, 12V 150W and 5V 75W. Its mounted in the lower rear of the enclosure behind the drawers.. lots of 'what if' built in for future

Overkill.... absolutely!!

Edited November 30, 2023 by Graymattor

[YaaJ]

For speed boating ? So, why didn't you take the 48V road ?

[Graymattor]

No, I'm not that advanced in my 3D printing knowledge for Speed Boating (however I have been looking at "The 100")

I only currently have a CR-10 Smart Pro (a corexy one day will replace it) that runs on 24V 350W, hence the 24V. The 12V is for the enclosure electronic controls and LEDs, 5V is RPI.. one day the 24V may get replaced with 48V one day, but no time in the near future! 

I only started 3D printing in March this year, I knew nothing at all! I wanted to enclose it and in May I went down the JKTech enclosure which to be honest was probably a huge mistake, it's cost a fortune and I'm still building it between other things (house renovation), I have changed and added a lot compared to the original JKTech plans, but its big enough to fit a Voron 350 in there.. I would like the control board out of the enclosure, but that comes with a lot of issues and I was advised the control boards with better cooling will be OK! Only time will tell.. 

I am also integrating and ERCF in to it, but that's early days yet! 

I'm not a fan of sharing the things I do due to a lot of it is probably very wrong and not to people's individual tastes, dues to being so new to 3D printing, but im too long down the path to change direction, so trying to make things a little future proof where I can!!! No easy with being clueless (as you may have gathered lol) 

[mvdveer]

1 hour ago, Graymattor said:

I'm not a fan of sharing the things I do due to a lot of it is probably very wrong and not to people's individual tastes, dues to being so new to 3D printing, but im too long down the path to change direction, so trying to make things a little future proof where I can!!! No easy with being clueless (as you may have gathered lol) 

Thanks for sharing with us. And you are no more clueless than I am. My motto is that there are no mistakes in life, only lessons learned. It is how we progress in life and in this hobby. Even though it is not the "usual", I respect your way of doing things.

[Graymattor]

2 hours ago, mvdveer said:

Thanks for sharing with us. And you are no more clueless than I am. My motto is that there are no mistakes in life, only lessons learned. It is how we progress in life and in this hobby. Even though it is not the "usual", I respect your way of doing things.

Thanks, appreciate the kind words.

Obviously I am open to any suggestions to improve, change, etc, I never shy away constructiveness (I have a tenancy to over complicate and over think things )

[Graymattor]

has anyone had any experience with RatOS from Rat Rig? 

Ive seen a few who have chosen this path? 

[Penatr8tor]

@Graymattor I've built two RatRigs, a ViCore 300 and a V-Minion. Both have RatOS.

Without getting too detailed... It's a highly optimized fork of Klipper and Mainsail.

For instance, if you build a RatRig printer and load RatOS, you're asked a few questions, and everything's configured. You can get details on the RatOS Documents Site. There are some caveats though. RatOS is structured so that the only thing you need in your printer.cfg are pointers to all of the hardware in your printer. For instance, if you have an LGX-Lite extruder, then un-comment the line and you're done and the same goes for any supported hardware like hotends, probes, etc. This is nice way of doing things until you want to attach something that they either don't or haven't yet supported and you'd have to either wait for them to create a config for it or create one yourself. Definitely not something you'd want to run into.

So, I guess the answer for the RatOS is... It's great if you build a RatRig printer. If you're building a Voron... They have an experimental version for the 2.4 and 0.1 if you're feeling adventurous. If you have an off the shelf printer that you're connecting a Pi to, to run Klipper... definitely not an option. 

[mvdveer]

5 hours ago, Graymattor said:

has anyone had any experience with RatOS from Rat Rig? 

Ive seen a few who have chosen this path? 

I have just recently installed it on a V-minion. Much the same principle as klippain. It is a modular system where the different configurations are in seperate .cfg files.

You need to uncomment the files you want in the printer.cfg file. The RatOs script makes this easier by automating the process to a degree. Klippain does this at the install point on the Rapberri pi. 

An important aspect of this is that you need t connect the motors, fans, end stops, etc to the diagrams of said os, especially RatOs, as the files are pre-configured to specific pins. This provides a challenge if you deviate from the standard connections.  Klippain has an overrides.cfg file where you can enter pins for your connection that would overide the base configuration. Suppose you can create one for Ratos, as well and include this in the printer.cfg file after all the other chosen configurations. (Have not tried this myself yet). However in saying this, you can change the pin configuration by just adding the section in the printer.cfg file of RatOS, which will overrride the supplied configuration.

To be honest, when I was struggling to get the PINDA probe working in the RATOS configuration, I was temped to switch to mainsail Klipper. At least I know where to go to change things.

Though it is meant to make it easier for the end user, it makes it more complicated if you want to alter something. (You have to search all the supplied files to find what you want, then override that value in the printer.cfg file)

Both of these have great macro's incorporated in the installs, which is another benefit.

From experience, if I had to install a "modular system", I would opt for klippain. (Easier to modify and change what you need to). But RatOs is a great system and on a standard install pretty straight forward.