Voron 0 formbot - Kigami bed

[shkop]

I'm building the formbot kit and really struggling to understand the kigami bed installation. The worse part is to understand what of the official manual is irrelevant.
First question - Do I need to use the stealth chain mount spacer? If so do I put heat sink insert in it or just passthrough the screws?
I'm at page 49.. I do find the Z endstop microswitch 3d printed part but not the endtop switch? Can someone take a picture of that part please?
I'm attaching a picture of my current progress. If I miss something (for that stage  ) please let me know.

 

 

 

Edited September 30, 2023 by shkop

[Perkeo]

I just made this picture from this part in my printer:

This is right at the bottom of the rails. If the bed moves down, the carriage will hit the white parts which is a very small switch. You should have this switch with your formbot kit.

When I install the screws that are told to be used to mount the bed to the frame, they just have a millimeter clearance when the bed is homing and moving to it's bottom position. Make sure to check your clearance manually by rotating the leadscrew and moving the bed down.

I did not have to use the stealth chain mount spacer and have the parts installed just as you have them on your photos.

Good luck with your build. Hope this helps!

[shkop]

It does help! How the bed movement should be? It does move along the rail but only when pushed... Should it "glide"? 

I saw the clearance so I used 4mm screws instead of 6mm.. maybe it's not good?

I wonder what can cause this as my measurements look accurate

[Perkeo]

Just go through the tramming and squaring on p47 and p48 on the manual and you should be fine. I have seen various reports from beds that freefall under their own weight and beds (like mine) that can be easily moved over the full range, but do not freefall. As the manual states, just make sure that you don't have any bindings or snags while moving the bed. A Nema17 motor already has impressive torque, therefore a little resitance when moving the bed up and down by hand is no issue whatsoever!

[claudermilk]

What @Perkeo said. Get it trammed and squared. If you can move it without binding then you are fine. I have the LDO kit with Honeybadger rails, which I think have a goodsamount of preload. The bed never did freefall, but it moves smoothly without binding.  What you have put together so far looks right--it's how mine is.

[shkop]

@claudermilk, @Perkeo what do they mean in the rail labeled "preloaded for x axis"? What's different about it than the other rails?

[Perkeo]

Have a read at e.g. What is Preload? which is just a random hit on a Google search. The Z-axis and Y-axis of the Voron printer is not that sensitive to internal clearances because of very limited load put on the rails. The X-axis carries the weight of the toolhead and the tolerances are more prone to give artifacts in the print result, therefore the best rail, or in the case of the Formbot kit, the one rail that is marked as 'pre-loaded' is to be used for the X-axis

[shkop]

@Perkeoshould I degrease and lube it like done for the other rails or leave it as is?

Edited October 2, 2023 by shkop

[Perkeo]

48 minutes ago, shkop said:

@Perkeoshould I degrease and lube it like done for the other rails or leave it as is?

The Formbot kit rails seemed to be good to go, but I degreased and lubed them anyways.

[shkop]

@Perkeo did you screw the grub screws of motor A all the way in or just flush with the edge?

[Perkeo]

58 minutes ago, shkop said:

@Perkeo did you screw the grub screws of motor A all the way in or just flush with the edge?

Grub screws should be tightened using thread locker to secure them. Make sure to tighten the first grub screw against the flat edge the of the motor shaft and then tighten the second grub screw. If I remember correctly, both grub screw sit well beneath the surface of the 20T Pulley.

[shkop]

3 hours ago, Perkeo said:

Grub screws should be tightened using thread locker to secure them. Make sure to tighten the first grub screw against the flat edge the of the motor shaft and then tighten the second grub screw. If I remember correctly, both grub screw sit well beneath the surface of the 20T Pulley.

Wow that's a great advice. I haven't noticed it. I really hope I didn't damage the pulley teeth when I pulled it out as I had to pull it with a lot of strength because of previous 243 fastener. I ordered some of these for spare parts if it will cause a problem...