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This is *NOT* a 3D printer (not only). My new prefered desktop computer !


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It is a Voron PC, powered by a RasPi 4 / 4GB.

For now, the trailer :

Front :


2x USB 3, audio output, and µSD card reader, for easy OS swap :

Rear :


1x USB 2, 1x USB C, 1x RJ45 Ethernet Giga port, 1x full size HDMI port ; and of course the mains inlet :

More to come...

This project is near to completion, but still unfinished : a real project is never completed. Started october 2022, with the design and build of the actively heated bed slinger that will print Vorons. Took 6+ months. Next post will be about this printer, dedicated to Voron builds. What you can see on the pictures is moiré. The "Voron buiilder", AKA the "Super Tornado", produces zero VFAs. Will explain how and why, and maybe debunk the BS about these artefacts (most likely invented because of the design flaws of a dated, well known and overpriced printer)

Of course, many mods I'll share later ; isn't teamfdm forum dedicated to mods ? So, let's mod !
This desktop computer is based on a LDO Voron 0.2 r1 kit...

Once it's completed, will be a 2.4/350mm :


Edited by YaaJ
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The 0.2, still unfinished, but functional. Protective sheets are still there on the acrylic panels. I don't like the hinges on the right side, and about to mirror everything...



This printer wouldn't exist without the bed slinger that was built for this purpose, and for this purpose only. The "Super Tornado". Kept the frame, the bed, and the 3 wheel X carriage. Everything else was properly redesigned and made. It will be scraped or repurposed after the two Vorons (0.2 and 2.4/350) are operational.

An early design :


The Y carriage, reinforced. 4 wheels are on eccentrics, because assuming that 3 wheels can be inline is pure nonsense.


Adjustments require a special tool :


The Z carriages. Machined from 8 mm thick aluminium (reduced to 6 mm). Double eccentrics for wheel adjustments.


Machining the carriages...


First, had to design and machine a jig...


All corners are reinforced. No cast aluminium rubish. Machined ! So I am sure the corners are all real 90° (as accurate as the machine that made them).


Also made some multithreaded M5 T nuts", from mild steel. Then, they were zinc electroplated.


Frame/Z axis junctions. Machined for a tight fit (AKA machinist fit), at true right angle.



Z motion. One motor, 2:1 reduction. The two leadscrews are suspended on a pair of preloaded deep groove bearings.


Y axis ; the tensioner :


The motor :


More to come, before the Voron 0.2 mods...

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I'm sure there are many. 3D printing subs have been very active for the last 15-20 years on machinists forums.

Will post a few more pics, showing why I am retiring this crap ASAP. Yes, it prints wonderfully (prints fast with no VFA and no ringing, at 60°C), but it is a pain to use. Maybe some components will be reused, and it will  become a laser or PCB engraver...

Soon, I'll post a couple of mods I made on the zero. Mostly about cable management and cooling. After many prototypes and testing. And lots of fails of course; The most important is showing what failed, and why !

Just a picture for now ; have to take more. No adhesive tape, no DIN rail (really bad for cooling because of the added height).


I have a question : not sure about the Nevermore to make for the 0.2. LDO recommends the Nevermore Micro V5, but I see no V5 on Github. Only V5 Duo.

Is it this one : https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro/tree/master/V5_Duo/V0 ? It is huge !

Or is the LDO website outdated ?

Should I make the V6 for V0 ? https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro/tree/master/V6/v0




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Finally figured what parts to print, and have it working, with charcoal pellets.

The V6. Maneuvring the jalousie is extremely satisfying !!!

A few more pictures of the printer that printed the Zero, then the Zero mods.

The Z transmission, on top :


Homebrew device combining a mini-clicky probe dock, a Z endstop and a auto-Z device :


The controller (SKR 1.4 Turbo + Pi 3 B+ + a few custom PCBs for various features) :


The ghetto enclosure ; it's a pain to work with this thing (it's now falling aparrt...).


Heated chamber ! A food dehydrator recycling air ; advantages : a mechanical thermostat and a thermal fuse.



Reaches 60+ °C :


It produced this :


And is also making that :


The 0.2 will really be a (secondary) desktop computer, on a desk, with a 1024p monitor, a keyboard and a mouse.

The 2.4 is in standby (thinking of mods : balljoints, Canbus, reinforced Z tensioners, etc.)

Currently sorting the pictures showing the Zero mods...

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Last mod project.

Do you see what I mean ?

A Voron Zero also can be a lamp !

(most expensive LED panel is 5.99€, least expensive is 3.99€. From the dollar shop, waiting for another project 'got a bunch of those).

To be compared to LED strips and other stick... Yes I know, it is laughtable when comparing with a LDO kit. Only real tinkerers will understand.



Edited by YaaJ
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I'm a f***ng genius !

Spent this saturday tuning the 0.2. The Ellis' way, except for the squish. Don't like this concept... (if we want to push material to the bed for adhesion, it has to be done with the extruder, not with the Z motor and coords... 0.2mm has to be 0.2mm, period. Calipers against the brim or skirt, and that's it. Just play with the flow settings. The Voron parts bevels are there for elephant foot compensation (IIUC), and Cura even has a compensation for the first layer overextrusion. Cura has plenty of flow adjustments, and flow adjustments all over the place is the reason why I gave up with all other slicers. Tested Orca yesterday, searched for flow for 1st layer, top layer, walls and infill : no success, gave up instantly)

Yes, many desintoxication attempts, always came back to Cura within an hour. Orca has a much better GUI, but Cura has much more smarter settings.

Then, printed a Voron Cube. First two mm : fine. Then more and more crappy. Accel 10000mm/s², speed 100 to 150mm/s (after IS tuning), the maximum allowed by the stupid standard Revo nozzle that came with the kit (12mm3/s). 250€ for a full loaded, brass, high flow kit, not sure the hotend will not be replaced with some Phaetus, that will work with the V6 nozzles that are in stock, high flow and hardened ! Same for the 2.4.


But I digress...

As I was looking at the plastic being extruded, investigating for the issue, all the screws were running away from the two Y rails.

Just forgot to tighten and thread lock them ! As well as some other ones !

When I work on an engine or a gearbox or whatever critical, I use some paint or marker to mark what was torqued...

A genius !

(hopefully the printer will produce a better cube after re-tightening, thread locking and re-tensioning ; because for now, the homebrew bed slinger tank produces better parts. A "bit" slower, but much better. And it has to go to the cellar : can't stand it anymore, and worse : The Wife doesn't too ! Attempted to sell her 'the-printing-lamp-that-can-show-YT-videos-with-ad-blocker on the TV' : din't work...).

Tonight : another speed cube, and Ubuntu for ARM. For now, will two SD cards (thanks to the card reader extension). Later : dual boot.

Also, will start to upload to Github ; nothing revolutionar, but could be usefull to those who hate CADing.

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I'm desperated... Took the gantry apart, retightened everything, etc. and still the same issue.

The cube on the right, printed at 45° in order to see if there's an issue with the A or B axis, is sh*tty (but much better than the other ones...). Had problems with the eSun roll : far too small flanges, loosy winding, I experienced a couple of tangles (the filament diving under the top ones) ; this should be solved with a different spool holdeer design (never happens on the other printer).



No idea what the problem could be. It's definitely related with the extruder, but what ??? Took it apart, nothing special, and same results.

The filament is not very consistant. But no such problem with the full size Stealthburner. Currently printing a cube with it, with the same filament spool : so far so good (except I forgot activating the part cooler). Same speeds, only the accelerations are lower (of course) [EDIT : no, the settings are more agressive on the Supe Tornado]. There are some horizontal artefacts (it's a stress test), but not to this point.

On the V 0.2, I even calibrated LA for the two speeds/accel I use (outer walls and other extrusions). No effect. Seriously thinking of the Bowden version. On such a tiny machine, it is probably worth it. It will never print stringy materials, it will be printing ABS only. It has to be a reference machine, extremely fast and accurate. Got this kit with this in mind.

I'd prefer be designing, showing and sharing mods, than attempting to get decent prints... Definitely the zero is not an easy build.






Most beautifull Voron cube ever. See below. Left, the previous crappy cube. Center, the cube produced by the "Super Tornado" (48mn) ; we can see where the part fan was turned on, and it was insufficient. Right the cube after the fix, with the same gcode than the left one (51mn). Of course, artefacts are exagerated by the lightings.




BTW, about the (in)famous VFAs... There's a bloatload of BS about VFAs all over the internets. VFAs have to see with the machine rigidity. The fact than an east european printer manufacturer is gaslighting everyone changes nothing. If their machines were rigid, they wouldn't make VFAs. Does a Tevo Tornado / CR10 produce VFAs ? Yes ! A lot ! Does a massively rigidified one does ? Not at all. Does a Voron Zero produces VFAs ? Not even the tiniest one. VFAs have a structural origin, and nothing to do with 400 or 200 steps morors. All motors on the Super Tornado come from Amazon, unbranded or from some obscure brand, all are 200 steps, the extruder is a Stealthburner made from a old, used Trianglelab BMG clone.

Now testing this. Because why not.


Works fine :


Let's test the same, but upside down...


Edited by YaaJ
new pictures
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Forgot to say.

The fix.

Just retightened the Revo nozzle before printing. It prints much better. This nozzle *very* easily moves when cleaning it with a brush (I use a nylon toothbrush). Move the brush so it doesn't unscrew the nozzle ! I wouldn't consider this system as reliable. Never had a loose nozzle until now ! Or maybe is it a lemon ?

And don't print upside down. The bed + the Kirigami are stronger than the anti backlash spring. It will print... into the PEI coating. And later, good luck for removing the print. Ask me how I know.

(please don't make fun of me ; I do stupid things so you don't have to)

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While you don't have to crank it down tight, you do have to firmly snug down a Revo nozzle. I have been running it on my Trident for over a year-and-a-half, and run a nozzle scrub every time. I've never had a nozzle loosen on me.

That cube on its corner... wow! 😮

Oh, and we've all printed into the PEI. It's a rite of passage.

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Whenever possible, I've been using adhesive spray on sanded bare stainless. because of PETG, and now ABS. First time I used PEI, it came with the part. It was advertised : for PETG !!! Smooth PEI. As a result, I didn't reuse PEI until it was mandatory for some Voron parts. And I slowly killed another one ; even had to create a custom STL bed for Cura, showing where not to put the models.

Definitely wasn't tightening enough : it didn't move again (or maybe never tightend it).

Anyway, the Revo's will be replaced with a Dragon or a Dragonfly on the Zero, so I can reuse the Nozzle X's and the BMG CHT's, and for the 2.4 it will be a Rapido. Will stick to the old nozzle standard ; plenty of V6 and Volcano.

The cube on the corner : so cool not having to worry about the bed going back and forth ! Had to try. 100% success. We can read everywhere that it is a huge CoreXY and deltas advantage for tall parts : had to try. Will be good for the pin support challenge. Will also try the Maker's Muse lattice cube.

Printing at max flow allowed by the standard Revo (11 mm3), 140 mm/s, 10000 mm/s². Way below what this printer can do. Just watched an old 247printing video. Have to experiment with realy fast inner walls and infills. The goal being a sub 15mn quality benchy. (I remember my first benchy took 2 hours and 15 mn with the stock Tornado and Marlin firmware that came with, 5 or 6 years ago).

I'll try to share one or two designs tonight on Github. But there's always one more project on the drawing board !

Edited by YaaJ
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Made a strain relief for the Picobilical. It also solves mitigates the problem with the reverse Bowden rubbing against the tophat. But adds a bit more bend to the harness... (Teflon insulated wires with the LDO kit). The radius looks similar to a cable chain, I'm not too worried. Here's an early itteration, made in a hurry, because there was a lot of stress on the connector. It attaches on the Z extrusions. Would be nicer on the motors extrusions, but didn't want to mess with the micro M3 T nuts. Will have to make something similar for the hotend because it is a bit too short and a zip tie does not fit xell.


Printed at 45°, for better mechanical properties.


The Zero became a desktop computer today. Still no OS nor dual boot, but it will come one day or the other. For now it prints.


The Super Tornado enclosure is falling apart. And the Zero produces better prints :  currently reprinting the 2.4 parts that were already printed


The third iteration of the stain relief. The second was not printed.


Another mod : the door ; I don't like the door opening to the right ; yes, it can be removed, but the hinges being screws, they will act as little files on the long term. And I don't want the door on the way while tinkering with the spool. But we have a problem : the LDO door is special. It has two 6mm diam recesses, 2mm deep, for the magnets (and how is supposed the handle to be glued ?). As a result, it is asymetric and chiral. The solution : gently drilling at 3mm, and replacing the magnets with M3 contersunks. Then redesigning the hadle for inserts, and the latches so the countersunks get in contact with the magnets (not strong enough if inside the plastic).

Works wonderfully !



The Nevermore was printed on the bed slinger. Works like a charm. Love the jalousie. Thinking it could be better I also printed the jalousie with PETG. It broke instantly. Not the ABS one (in fact I broke one because I stress tested it ; reprinted two, with a spare, just in case).

Had to re-tram the bed and re-tune the Z offset a couple of times. Either the Kirigami is not that rigid, or the Z endstop tends to move, or parts are just settling... Some thoughts ?

This printer desktop computer is amazing !


Edited by YaaJ
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