Hello

[Big H]

Hello,

Lately I've seen a lot of Voron videos on Youtube so I got interested into building one from scratch.

I'm currently thinking of building 2.4 R2 with stealthburner and direct feed and a dragon hotend.

I have already placed some orders for buying a frame kit, fasteners kit and corner angles and linear rails from AliExpress.

I will slowly source the materials.

[mvdveer]

Welcome to the forum. Great way of building a Voron is by self sourcing - can choose the best of the best. My first thee Vorons were all self sourced (V0, V2.4r2 300mm, Switchwire). Then postage to Australia just got out of hand post Covid and kits were cheaper to get. Once you hac=ve all the parts, please consider a build diary. We would love to share your journey

[Big H]

Sure. Thanks for the reply. 

I do need help with wiring and all that. 

I'm considering buying pre crimped wires

But don't know which board to get? 

Spider or BTT? 

Also I'm confused about the hall effect, microswitch and PCB. I still don't fully understand them

Do I need to install them with the stealthburner or not? 

[PFarm]

On 8/6/2023 at 6:09 PM, Big H said:

Sure. Thanks for the reply. 

I do need help with wiring and all that. 

I'm considering buying pre crimped wires

But don't know which board to get? 

Spider or BTT? 

Also I'm confused about the hall effect, microswitch and PCB. I still don't fully understand them

Do I need to install them with the stealthburner or not? 

Welcome to the forum. I'd recommend the BTT Manta 8P it comes with a built-in CB-1 (Raspberry Pi alternative) you can do separate microswitches for x&y end-stop or a PCB with the microswitches mounted. Yes, you'll need them with Stealthburner. I'd also recommend doing TAP with your Stealthburner, backplates for the gantry linear rails and kinematic bed mounts these made a huge difference when performing QGL (Quad-Gantry-Leveling). Also, download the installation manual and have a read through it, hall effect and microswitches are shown in it. Take a look at the wiring section as well to get familiar with that task.

Edited August 26, 2023 by PFarm

[mvdveer]

For the board, I would suggest the BTT Octopus or Manta 8 (Most popular boards - a lot of members have gone to the Manta 8 , I still use the Octopus/Pro). Not as much support for the Spider board.

Pre-crimped wires are the way to go. Make sure you get good quality. On aliexpress, I have ordered the PTFE loom from Funsor and had no problems with it. Other solutions can be found on the Fabreeko store, which is an excellent store to purchase from.

Hall effect uses magnets as an endstop rather than a microswitch. (the BL Touch uses the Hall effect for example) Like anything there will be members who prefer one over the other. There is also sensorless homing which uses neither a magnet or switch but the controller board only.

The endstop switches can be purchasesd as individual switches

or pre-assembled on a PCB for the Voron 2.4.

If you use any of these options, you need to print the correct stl file for these.

PCB are meant to allow easy access and interchangeability to the toolhead. Wiring from the hotend, (hotend cooling fan, part cooling fan, X-Endstop, LED's, Hotend heater and thermistor) will connect to the PCB and a cable loom will connect onto the PCB and run to the electronics bay. There are various options available with the Hartk board the most popular.

 

Hope this helps

 

 

 

[claudermilk]

Welcome to the forum! Self-sourcing is a valid option--that's how I did my Trident. For my build, I went with the Octopus and am happy I did--it's almost the default controller, there's tons of documentation on setting it up. I'd suggest going with the PCB XY endstops--that just makes things easier--and I love Tap. For further wiring, I've recently rewired my Stealthburner to use the hartk 2-piece PCB on the toolhead end, and the LDO breakout on the controller end. It should make maintenance down the road a whole lot easier than this time around (which was a PITA).