Phaetus Dragon HF Hotend clogging issue

[bcgreenbox]

I've got this Voron 2.4 build that's pretty much done except the top of the hotend get clogged. I've tried various temperatures and filaments, PLA, PETG and ABS and all three at the clog at the top.  Any suggestions?

Thank you,

Bob

[bcgreenbox]

Another picture...

[Chuck_Snow]

I have the Dragon and the Radiso and they both work great whit every thing I put in them, PLA, ABS, ASA and never had an issue looking at those picture's

I suspect that it's not getting enough cooling on the cooling stack.. looks like it getting heat creep.. is that on a Voron ? do you have the long belts stuffed in the back and stopping air flow ?  maybe the fan is weak ?.. is it running at 100% power?.

[locki]

It looks you dont cool it enought, also copper changed colour from heat, normaly is pink to orange and you have it almost blue ... this is obvious.

 

PLA print only with open doors or also open top.

Edited June 6, 2023 by locki

[Penatr8tor]

@bcgreenbox, The old filament is easy enough to get out with a pin vice and a couple drill bits. A #51 drill is just under 1.75mm, you can drill into the filament and generally just pull it and the old filament right out. If it won't pull out, keep hand drilling it out. it'll eventually release and pull out clean. As for clog prevention... You need to make sure that your hotend fan is on and running at 100% whenever the nozzle temp is over 50c.

Here's what is happening... and also what needs to happen. The part of the hot end with the fins on it needs to be cooler than the glass transition temp of your filament. The fan blowing on it maintains this cooler temperature. If the fan doesn't provide enough air flow at 100% to keep it cool, then the heat will rise up the tube melting the filament along the way. Once the full length of the cooling tube is filled with molten plastic, the extruder can no longer push filament out of the tip of the nozzle.

So, you need to do some checking, check your config and make absolutely sure that the fan is set to run at 100%. If it is and it does... then look into getting a better replacement fan. In addition... sometimes it's not the hardware so much as it is how one uses the hotend. What I mean is that you should only heat the nozzle to full temp right before priming the nozzle or when you're loading or unloading filament. Heating the nozzle when the printer is idle and letting it sit can and will cause the heat to rise up thru the filament cooling tube even with the fan running, so never let your printer just sit with the nozzle at printing temps. 

[Simon2.4]

Also, IMO if you are not printing fast, the HF may not be the best choice. I had similar issues with the HF and now run a stock E3DV6 with great results.

[bcgreenbox]

Thank you all for the responses and insight!  You're right, poor cooling made the whole hot end melted through. I bought these cheap 12V fans.  I'm now trying to bring my old Ender 3 back to life to print replacement parts.  I've never been confident at my ability to use it to print ABS on it.

I was thinking, is there anyone using a piece of silicone as a gasket at the top of their hotend or should I expect a good 24V fan and air flow to keep things in check?

Thank you,

Bob

[Chuck_Snow]

A good 24v fan should keep it cool enough at 100% power when ever the Hotend is over 50'C  some even use 12v fan whit great success people opt to use the Noctua Brand.

and ya that looks like it had all most NO cooling.. the part is design to work the way it is if you try to install gasket it will mess up the Design and its not necessary. 

Did you maybe have your FAN0 and FAN1 mixed maybe and was nt running at full power ?.

 

Edited June 7, 2023 by Chuck_Snow

[Penatr8tor]

@bcgreenbox It sure looks like it experienced some overheating. If you're in trouble and can't print ABS, let us know where you're at and we'll see if maybe we can help you out. In fact I have both an Afterburner and Stealthburner hotend mount for the dragon HF printed in black ASA that I could send out to you. 

[bcgreenbox]

On 6/7/2023 at 12:34 PM, Penatr8tor said:

@bcgreenbox It sure looks like it experienced some overheating. If you're in trouble and can't print ABS, let us know where you're at and we'll see if maybe we can help you out. In fact I have both an Afterburner and Stealthburner hotend mount for the dragon HF printed in black ASA that I could send out to you. 

Thank you!  I really appreciate the offer.  I got my old printer running now and will try a V6. 

Bob

[Penatr8tor]

@bcgreenbox I can relate... Found myself in that predicament once. Afterwards I started printing replacement parts when I was running the right filament. 

Edited June 9, 2023 by Penatr8tor

[Paul Fielding]

Yup I’ve been there.  Once I got it up and running again the first thing I did was print a complete set of tool head parts to keep in a box in case of emergency.  I’ve had to dig a part out from that box once or twice….

[Buas7]

mine is cooling great but the extruder motor keeps clicking and the filament keeps clogging but when i get it out and cleen it or push it it goes oke also my z hight is not right if i follow the voron doc i dont get the z hight right also what does g90 do ? it shows nothing when i give that commend

 

[claudermilk]

https://www.klipper3d.org/G-Codes.html

It's setting your printer to run in absolute coordinate mode, which is what we want with the printers. So 0,0 is always the front right corner of your bed.

[Penatr8tor]

8 hours ago, claudermilk said:

 

So 0,0 is always the front right corner of your bed.

Front left corner. 

[claudermilk]

Yes, I meant front left. (my OTHER right...)