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Hello from Germany


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Guten Tag everybody.

No im not Stefan. I´m Martin from Germany (near Stuttgart). I found this Forum after some some hours searching Voron things.

My 3D Print journey started in 2019 with an Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus. After some time i switched to an Prusa Mini+.

First i printed nothing for months or some Thingiverse Stuff. Then i started the RC hobby and things get serious. I´ve learned Fusion 360. Made my own Parts. It´s great fun.

One of my RC Cars. A BoomRacing Toyota LC70:


And now i´m printing parts for my Voron 2.4 Build.

I build an extra enclosure for my Mini to Print ASA Parts. It´s a diy case and a mix of diy parts and voron parts. Still with some parts wip but it works.

First printed ASA parts were a complete Prusa Mini in ASA. Wanted to have the complete printer in spare parts if something failes while printing 😂


And now why i´m here? I build a Voron 2.4 300mm with Dragon HighFlow from Formbot. In Voron colors Black and Red. And there will be a lot questions and searching.

Still thinking what to mod and upgrade. Klicky or Tap? First normal building or directly switching to Canbus?

And this is my BOM (box of material 😅). Essential parts in black 100% finished. Started red parts. And then CW2 and SB needs to be printed.


And that should be enough to say hello ✌️

Greetings Martin


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Hello Martin - a hearty welcome to the forum. Great use of your printer. There are those in the forum that Print RC Model plane parts, other miniatures for table top board games.

Looking forward to seeing your progress with the Voron. You won't be disappointed. (Please feel free to create a build diary). We would love to follow your progress.

My first Voron2.34 was build with a Hartk toolboard and there is a lot of wiring to be done. My Trident and second 2.4 both have a SB2040 canbus boards and that is what I personally would recommend for your build.

There are those of us here that love the Voron TAP, other swear by Klicky.  My experience with TAP has been great on smooth PEI, not so great with Textured PEI plates. (Obviously, I am now only printing on smooth PEI plates). But that is a personal choice.

Glad to have you join our community.


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Thank you.

I start a build diary when my kit arrives. I think there will be some questions while i´m building 😅

For 60% i´m sure i will use klicky with auto z. 

For Canbus i´m not sure which boards to buy. There is a Stealthburner CAN Toolhead Board and Fly SHT36 one. 2 different boards but they work the same?


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Welcome to the forum!

Good on printing up spares for the Mini, and your enclosure is fancy! I still have my box of spares for my Mini--it survived the Voron print project without a hitch, but it was comforting to have replacements in case something decided to creep. My enclosure for the ABS prints was much simpler: the box the kit shipped in.

Tap and Klicky are both great. I quickly went to Klicky after getting my Trident up and running and it worked well for quite a while. After an unfortunate incident, I had to scramble to replace the probe bits and ran into some issues with the magnets so it never worked quite 100% after and my trust was reduced. Once Tap came out I moved to that--I always thought probing off the actual nozzle made the most sense anyway. My install wasn't straightforward but now that it's working I love it. Switching between smooth and textured works of for me, but I need to figure out dialing the offset between them as it seems a little different.

Regardless of the route you ultimately take, the advice from the Voron team is to build spec first, then once the printer is functioning mod it. Switching from the spec inductive probe to Klicky or (to a lesser extent) Tap is not all that hard. I was happy I went that way, because when Klicky was giving me grief I was able to fall back to the inductive to quickly get the printer back to working temporarily.

As for the projects @mvdveer mentioned, guilty as charged. I fell down the printed RC rabbit hole a bit and have bene enjoying that. I also have printed a bunch of tabletop gaming stuff, lately getting some encouraging results for miniatures.

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Welcome aboard!

8 hours ago, strt_fnst said:

Wanted to have the complete printer in spare parts if something failes while printing

Very sensible! You can never have too many spare parts, the trouble is resisting the temptation to turn your spare-parts into a whole new printer rather than keeping them spare.

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Welcome to the Club
Nice to meet a compatriot here, I'm at Home in the Rhein-Main-Gebiet.
I wish you a lot of Fun building the Voron, and if you have any questions, always ask freely.
It is generally recommended to get it running without mods first and then continue, it also makes sense for the first build because you can work through the instructions step-by-step. Personally, I would install the Stealthburner with TAP directly as the only mod, it saves you a few detours

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11 hours ago, strt_fnst said:

For Canbus i´m not sure which boards to buy. There is a Stealthburner CAN Toolhead Board and Fly SHT36 one

There is a lot of support for the SHT36 boards and I would probably go with them. I have the integrated SB2040 Canbus and Stealthburner toolhead board which I am very happy with. With a stock CW2 it works and installs perfectly. The SHT will give you more options when you decide to "mod" your printer with e.g a LGX, Orbiter or Sherpa extruder. (More solutions for mounting). However, I changed to a LGX Lite and had to reprint the stealth burner face in order to mount the SB2040)

11 hours ago, strt_fnst said:

2 different boards but they work the same?

Yes they do. The principle is the same. The advantage is that there is only 4 wires from the toolhead. The disadvantage is that it may be frustrating to set up. 

The other issue with installing a Canbus, is that you will most likely have to modify your X end stop. The X end stop will go on the stealth burner and plug into the can bus board. The Y- end stop is then normally moved to the rear right of the printer.  I find this easier to do during the original build, rather than modifying it later.

But, if you are hesitant or feel it is too much at once, then the advice from the other members are SOLID - start with stock, then modify later. 


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Ok i see a pattern. I think starting stock and get it running is really the best solution.

And having a build printer is easier to see what changes be needed to mod. And how they were made. Luckily there is always a Prusa Mini round the corner to help 😃


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Printer look well dialed in, the parts look great!! 

Yeah, I think you take a good choice in going "default" first and mod later, then you dont run into additional parts needed etc... no manuals, etc.

There are enough things to figure out with the default build, read some of the build diaries here, and browse youtube maybe.

you cant take enough time in finetuning the frame and the gantry in it, make sure its as smooth as it can be, and square, because its very hard to fix later, and makes all the difference in running a vibrating horror, or a smooth machine.

I have build a few formbot builds.. and I think the wiring is its weakest point, the wires to the hotend that is, try to go to canbus in the near future, or throw in a high end wiring kit, its worth it, believe me.

PS. had to laugh about the Stefan start 😉 

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The Mini is doing a really good job with printing the parts. Essentials are 100% printed. And SB & CW2 are to 70% ready.

Formbot still not shipped the Kit. I think i can print more Parts in the Time waiting.

I watched a lot livestreams from Nero on youtube. 😅 And i´m a CNC Kitchen subscriber 😃

And today i found another face 😂




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And still no news from Formbot. Kit is not sent yet. So i have more time for printing 😅 

Some packages arrived.

More ASA. I printed near 2kg of Black ASA. So more 2kg ASA ordered. They should last some time.

This awesome Google Docs says i have some hours left.

Check List:


Mod parts/SB/CW2:


Only 1 part needs printed. Transparent Voron Logo. I only have transparent PLA but i think that should be no problem 😅

And first Upgrades ordered from meltbro. Klicky, Stealtburner LEDs and CanBus Board.


And now i´m hoping Fermio make some nice panels that i can order. Waiting for the one with the Voron Logo 😃

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I hope you don't have to wait too long for the kit. In the Discord I read that Formbot CZ has probably only received a few and they are already empty again

You can also get the transparent logo for the SB on Ebay/Kleinanzeigen for 2-3 € Made of Resin

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