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Prusacaster - a kind of a build diary

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My son is playing E-Guitars, E-Bass. Keyboards and (unfortunately!!! for my Ears) Drums, so I decided to start building a Prusacaster...

It'll be fun I thought..to get him a unique piece with possibly not the best sound Quality but for sure an individual look and great design not anybody else has.

So I thought to print the main core lying flat on the 350 trident, turned out this was a bad Idea


Try Nr1:  warping on the neck, bad surface there, print canceled after about 14 hours Print time (enthusiasm -30%):



So far so bad, and thought to use an adhesive an the building plate


omg that sticks like hell, had to change from Skirt for priming to a simple prime line as it was nearly impossible to remove the Skirt (..ask my fingernails)

Try Nr2: no more warping, but because of the large amount of solid bottom/top infills (15) it still started to bend up (enthusiam now only 30%) :


first I tried to use a file at the again becoming bad neck part removing a few layers there manually, but at the end it also starting to become awful after the 8th top layer, so again cancel print nearly before finished...

Conclusion: After 2 rolls of Filament having the part laying flat on the print bed doesn't seem to be the best solution, so get it up....hmm but then I need supports, not the best with Superslicer....so next logical Step is to use the current last PrusaSlicer 2.6.0-alpha 5 with organic supports. After transforming my settings from Superslicer to Prusaslicer and a lot of testprints I came up with inserting a few Support Blockers to the Part (otherwise the organic supports do unneccesary strange things (enthusiam now again 80 %):


and sliced it , looks great and interesting


so this is currently printing


lets see how it will come out, hope to be more lucky now as the Guitar Kit is on the way.....

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  • 2 weeks later...

so it continues, finished printing all the parts



....and next problems occured.....

seems to be most important to order the guitar kit itself before!! printing any parts as it will be delivered with changing parts and of course I got a different version as stated in the original download package so it doesn't fit to the core part with the 5 Screw Bridge ( my kit has a3 Screw Bridge with different screw positions, deeper Pickup)



it's important to measure the distance of a Bridge Screw position  to  a mounting hole of the neck on the delivered wooden Body of the guitar kit



and compare it with lots of alternative cores from the remixes on printables. after comparing lots of cores with the new measurement tool in PrusaSlicer 2.6.0-alpha 5 i found the "Correct placement of American Thomann 3-screw hardware" of this alternative fits my hardware


this is essentially important for correct sound of the guitar to have the correct base length of the strings !!!


unforunately I still have problems with printing the top infills when printing big surfaces , as I get overextrusion and wavy surfaces there (in combination with a rumbling noise when the nozzle goes above...) strange is that I only get it at the top infills, when reducing the extrusion multiplier on the top infills  its ok. I also did some smaller testing bodies with bigger surfaces and cutout partitions and holes without problems even with 16 top fill layers.... has anyone an Idea as I'm running out of them (tried different cooling, temps, speed)


testcube with 16 top layers:



Edited by Wick
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Really intesting project. As a guitar and bass player myself following this with real interest.

I would love to, however hear the impressions of the player when the project is finished, as getting good action, decent sustain and intonation consistency from layered plastic seems like impossible to me... still makes me want to build one.

10 hours ago, Wick said:

this will be a gamechanger

That has been in cura since as long as i can remember... i think late 2018 and was one of the reasons i wasn't moving to prusa/superslicer... took forever to move it from experimental to actual feature despite allways been working spot on... is ashaming prusaslicer is taken that long to catch up.

A game changer will actually be the implementation of reliable ark overhangs... tree supports (in most cases) don't give any other feature than a bit of material saving!

Edited by Maurici
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For those wh are adventurous, there is a ntive Klipper slicer that does tree supports, I believe:


But then also been reading Superslicer will be getting the Prusa 2.5 and 2.6 merges in the not too distant future which will hopefully have tree support.

Depends how often you use this feature I guess.

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Well it's done now, and my son was very surprised and more than happy as I presented it to him today as he didn't knew about this project...

last building steps:

glueing all parts together with UHU Hart Kunststoff , as superglue (cyanacrylat) is not the best for ABS



most fiddling work was to insert the M3 screws inside the honeycombs, very time consuming job


after getting all screwed i inserted the strings and calibrated the ovtaves (harmonic vs pressed 12th fret) for all 6  strings, was pretty fast finished and worked good for one saddle modfies 2 strings.

Well here's the final result



and a first soundcheck from my son, he was absolutely surprised as it sounds really good



Edited by Wick
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Looks great!! And doesn't seems to have too bad of an action either.

Did you guys have any knowledge on adjusting/intonating instruments beforehand? I do ot, but i find it very fiddly.


Ps. Please cut the headstock to some sort of shape... hurts and ruins the aesthetics.😬

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19 hours ago, Maurici said:

Did you guys have any knowledge on adjusting/intonating instruments beforehand? I do ot, but i find it very fiddly.

would say yes, I also played guitar for about 10 years in the past (also along with other instruments), so adjusting was done within 15mins, what surprised me alot. Seems it is important how you print the main body ( I used Esun ABS+ 7perimeters, 30% Gyroid Infill, 15 bottom / 16 top layers ), my printing Problem was that ABS seems to shrink and i had to reduce EM over the height, and the pei flex plate bent up, so I think it would be better to print it on a non flexible printbed..... Glass?

Next thing to mention is that the honeycomb parts are very sharp on the outside, so it scratches on the inner forearm, remixing these parts with rounded rims would be better

Edited by Wick
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