Voron01 - printer shutdown after home

[polygonprint]

Hello all,

I am hoping someone may be able to help with a issue I am having. Please see attached image for the error I am getting on my V01. The printer itself has been working very well up until today. I do occasionally get an under-volted error in Mainsail but a week ago I changed to an official Raspberry PI 5v power supply and everything seemed to be going well. But today, when starting a print or homing I am getting attached error. Bigtreetech SKR Mini E3 V2. Something tells me I may have damaged the MCU but am hoping that isn't the case.

[mvdveer]

7 hours ago, polygonprint said:

Bigtreetech SKR Mini E3 V2.

Unfortunately these boards are known to have issues with their stepper drivers. I think you have just lost one - the curse of the SKR miniE 3v2. Had this happen on two SKR mini E3v2 boards and thus not using them anymore. The boards are cheap but NOT reliable

[polygonprint]

Thank you mvdveer. Luckily I have a BTT SKR Pico I was hoping to use for a V0.2 build. Hopefully they are a little more reliable. Is there a more reliable option available that fits nicely into a zero build? Thanks again!

[mvdveer]

44 minutes ago, polygonprint said:

Hopefully they are a little more reliable. Is there a more reliable option available that fits nicely into a zero build?

You can't go wrong with the PICO. @smirk used that in his V0.1 build with success.

[smirk]

16 hours ago, polygonprint said:

Hopefully they are a little more reliable. Is there a more reliable option

I would say it will be - before I used my PICO I was concerned it would be like the E3 as it had pre-soldered TMC drivers and heat sinking on the "wrong side". However, with 100's of hours a printing it is has been rock-solid. I paired it with a Raspi Zero 2 which I mounted together with the PICO and I use the combined UART/Power cable so the PICO drives the PI as well. I do have a fan blowing onto the set up for active cooling but that's really a precaution. I have operated it without active cooling very happily. Basically the PICO is a night and day difference to the absolutely appalling E3 mini.

[claudermilk]

Thanks for that information @mvdveer! I have a couple of projects I was thinking of using the Mini E3 on. Now I'll look more at other options with that knowledge.

[billbr]

The Pico seems to be a good board but also has a known problem. If you try to reboot from the client (mainsail/fluidd/etc.) everything hangs including the pi until you press the reset button on the board or do a power-cycle. 

[polygonprint]

7 hours ago, smirk said:

I would say it will be - before I used my PICO I was concerned it would be like the E3 as it had pre-soldered TMC drivers and heat sinking on the "wrong side". However, with 100's of hours a printing it is has been rock-solid. I paired it with a Raspi Zero 2 which I mounted together with the PICO and I use the combined UART/Power cable so the PICO drives the PI as well. I do have a fan blowing onto the set up for active cooling but that's really a precaution. I have operated it without active cooling very happily. Basically the PICO is a night and day difference to the absolutely appalling E3 mini.

Thank you for your reply and good to hear. I am 3/4 of the way into a Trident build and only have the skirting and display parts left to print, so was slightly peeved when my zero wouldn't print

 

Thanks to everyone!

[smirk]

8 hours ago, billbr said:

If you try to reboot from the client (mainsail/fluidd/etc.) everything hangs including the pi

Wow, I have never had that problem and I've definitiey rebooted it (generally as part of any OS upgrades and the like). Just tried it now and it's fine.  it's also been fairly well abused in terms of violent shutdowns (kicked out plug, unplugged wrong machine, tripped main breaker (when my iron blew up, nowt to do with Voron ). Wonder if there are different board versions.

[chaaalyy]

SKR Pico is a well designed board. Unfortunately there´s no connector for any 12864 display...

[claudermilk]

15 hours ago, smirk said:

tripped main breaker (when my iron blew up

I'm sure there's a story there. Iron blew up?! 

[Razor1666]

On 2/21/2023 at 8:58 AM, smirk said:

Basically the PICO is a night and day difference to the absolutely appalling E3 mini

Hmmm....So E3 mini bad - As far as reliability or problematic? Even the V3?

What boards have you had luck with.... Octopus, Spider, Manta.?

 

PS I have a Pico I can't wait to try.... 

[billbr]

19 hours ago, smirk said:

Wow, I have never had that problem and I've definitiey rebooted it (generally as part of any OS upgrades and the like). Just tried it now and it's fine.  it's also been fairly well abused in terms of violent shutdowns (kicked out plug, unplugged wrong machine, tripped main breaker (when my iron blew up, nowt to do with Voron ). Wonder if there are different board versions.

I don't know on the board versions. I found documented issues that match and it was marked as a "known issue"... I have a pico on my V0 and I leave the back open so it isn't too much of a hassle, but still a hassle. Other than that and too few connections for my liking the Pico seems to perform well. I may change it out when the next interesting controller comes along.

[smirk]

On 2/22/2023 at 3:27 PM, Razor1666 said:

Hmmm....So E3 mini bad - As far as reliability or problematic? Even the V3?

What boards have you had luck with.... Octopus, Spider, Manta.?

I've not tried the V3, after the the hassles with the other E3 mini I avoided that.  The issues with the E3 mini was caused by over heating of the drivers. The trouble is the stupid design, since they've got built in stepper drivers the design forces you to put the heat sink on top of the plastic chip package (plastic = thermal insulator). In good designs the heat is dumped from the driver chips "into" a copper fill area (on the opposite side of the board) connected by via to the underside of the chip. (Naturally the manufacturer need to put in a decent amount of copper 2oz or more, as well). So I always suspected a combination of standard levels of copper (1oz say) and the daft placement of heat-sinks causes the drivers to over-heat. I was experience everything from layer shifts to total spaghetti printing, lock-ups and everything in between.

 

I've had good experiences with the Octopus and Spider. I've got a pile of Manta's that I need to start using

[polygonprint]

Learning quite a bit here re boards etc. Am quite happy I didn't order another E3 mini 

[Razor1666]

15 hours ago, smirk said:

I was experience everything from layer shifts to total spaghetti printing

Thanks for the info. I had layer shift issues....thought it might have been my speed or accelerations on the bedslinger or belt tension. I did notice my MCU temp in the mid to high 40's which I didn't like so added an exhaust fan to keep it below 40 and the layer shifting did go away. If it becomes problematic I will be going to something else. 

[billbr]

12 hours ago, polygonprint said:

Learning quite a bit here re boards etc. Am quite happy I didn't order another E3 mini 

The one take-away on boards is that all suppliers (good and bad) have been struggling to get their components and thus some weird (read unreliable) parts can find their way into the products. Most of the controller people are based in China or Taiwan (ROC). So a given vendor can have problems for a specific board or specific run of a board. Personally I prefer to stick with boards that provide a plugable set of drivers (Stepstick or other).  I have two E3 minis and one failed out of the box and one works perfectly.  So your mileage may vary. I have a fair number of BigTreeTech boards that have been excellent. Mellow/Fly seem to be good (from my friend's experiences). My BTT Octopus and Fysetc Spyder have been excellent controllers. Others here can chime in on board experiences if they want.

Addon thought: I think that klipper may push the boards harder than traditional Marlin configurations, thus something that worked fine under Marlin without cooling might get too hot when being driven by klipper configured for  higher speed and accelerations. No facts, just a passing thought based on my friends experience with a klipperized Ender 3.

Edited February 24, 2023 by billbr
additional thought